Category
🦄
CreativityTranscript
00:00 I would do it.
00:01 Ready, Al?
00:02 - Ready.
00:03 (laughing)
00:05 - All right.
00:06 Hi, everyone.
00:07 It's great to be here.
00:09 Apparently, I'm taking over American Salon.
00:12 It's American Salon Takeover.
00:13 This morning when Randy told me,
00:15 I actually thought American Salon
00:16 was taking over the Suit Academy,
00:18 but it's the other way around.
00:20 So here we go.
00:21 What I'm gonna do is, in the interest of time,
00:24 I've worked pre-cut half the haircut,
00:27 and it's gonna be a little, what we're calling a micro bob,
00:29 a very short, little box bob
00:32 on one of my favorite models, Sophia.
00:35 Just working off really the cheekbones.
00:37 I'm gonna cut this second half for you now.
00:41 And it's short, and a little shape
00:44 that I've been working on with Sophia,
00:46 she's been growing out from a very short little crop,
00:49 and the last few times we spoke about growing it
00:53 into a longer shape, so we decided to bring it together
00:58 in the way of a line.
01:00 Which I think works really well on Sophia.
01:02 So I'm gonna start out with just slightly
01:07 horizontal diagonal sections.
01:09 Just a nice finger's length pulling the hair
01:11 right out from the head.
01:13 A little bit tricky to do half and half.
01:18 I think I'll get it together for you guys.
01:20 - Gordon just joined, Martina says hello.
01:23 - Hi, Gordon.
01:24 You tell Gordon I just got off the phone with Tony Beckerman
01:29 and he said to give Gordon a pinch.
01:32 I can't do that, but I'll say hello to you, Gordon.
01:35 (laughs)
01:37 Okay, so yeah, we're here at the Academy where I'm based,
01:44 and I'm working with some of the team.
01:47 Prepping to do a photo shoot,
01:50 we have our courses running downstairs.
01:52 There's always something amazing going on.
01:54 I think that's why, probably one of the reasons
01:57 why I've never left, been in the Academy now
02:00 for 20 odd years.
02:02 And it's such a great place to be as a teacher,
02:05 as a student, at any level.
02:07 I think as a model too, huh, Sophia?
02:10 - You're getting so many hellos.
02:12 Michelle Donald, Amy Gallagher.
02:14 - Yay. - From Scotland.
02:16 - Around the world, amazing.
02:18 Isn't it late there?
02:21 Somebody up late?
02:24 Okay, so nice clean sections is the key.
02:26 It's hard with this really freshly bleached short hair
02:30 to work cleanly, but it's so important.
02:33 So I just kind of get my hand in there,
02:35 and then I just lift that out with the comb,
02:37 and then you just get your fingers back in.
02:39 I'm picking up a little bit of the first side
02:42 from the center, which is important,
02:44 so you don't have that disjointed feel
02:47 that you're gonna have to work out later
02:49 with your scissor or comb.
02:50 So one of my favorite balances, I think, in proportions
02:55 is a box bob.
02:57 It's so powerful and strong,
02:58 and I think also so technical.
03:01 I mean, it's taken me so many years
03:05 to kind of feel like I have a good grasp of it,
03:09 and I still constantly practice doing it
03:14 better and better every time,
03:15 and the nuances of it, which I think is interesting too,
03:18 especially in a teaching aspect.
03:22 When you wanna teach someone how to do something,
03:25 I think there's definite specific things
03:27 that you share with them.
03:29 So sectioning, clean, small, good control of the hair,
03:33 elevating the hair up, layering really close to the head
03:38 until I get to the point where I'm gonna graduate,
03:40 and then I'll start drawing the hair down and in.
03:43 Open for questions too.
03:48 - 350 people in this room.
03:50 No questions yet. - Wow, I wonder it's so hot.
03:52 - Michelle Donald said, "This is not easy to cut, but fun."
03:56 - Am I making it look it not easy,
03:57 or am I making it look it easy?
03:59 Can't speak now.
04:00 It is nice to cut.
04:04 I mean, it's one of those things
04:06 you just need that total focus.
04:10 So it is a little trickier to have it when you're--
04:12 - Yeah, what are some of the-- - Over my shoulder.
04:15 - The tips you have for cutting hair that short
04:17 between your fingers?
04:19 - Clean sections for sure.
04:21 I think that's great.
04:21 You know, some tips for working very clean
04:25 with hair that's short.
04:26 - Michelle's asking if this is suitable for fine hair.
04:28 - Yeah, this is fine hair actually.
04:30 There's a lot of it, but individually it's quite fine hair.
04:33 And yeah, because you take this,
04:35 it's really close head hugging,
04:37 makes for a beautifully long neck.
04:39 And then you build up the density to the hair
04:41 once you get up into the line.
04:43 So it works great on fine hair.
04:46 - Is this best on straight hair?
04:48 Thank you, Amanda.
04:51 Yeah, good question.
04:53 I think it's most suitable and easiest to do
04:58 and have the right look, the most suitable look
05:00 on straighter hair, finer hair that lays flat to the head.
05:04 That's gonna be our easiest scenario to cut it in.
05:08 But it could look quite dramatic on textured hair as well.
05:11 Because as you imagine, the hair would really thatch out,
05:14 out and away from the head shape
05:17 in a really beautiful way.
05:19 So I've never excluded texture from anything, I don't think.
05:24 But I think when you're first learning something,
05:26 you should learn it on the ideal texture.
05:29 So you don't start with the problems.
05:32 - She said, thank you.
05:34 And you got a hello from Florence, Italy, Donatella.
05:37 - Oh.
05:38 Ciao, I think is what I should be saying.
05:48 Okay, so this is the point where you really wanna start
05:51 thinking about bringing the hair a little bit down.
05:54 So how you comb it is important.
05:56 So lift up from underneath, and then just comb it back
06:00 and set it into the fingers.
06:02 And that just starts building up
06:04 that little weight line in there.
06:06 Think about where you're heading towards in the face.
06:11 You know, like I said before, it's the cheekbones.
06:13 So though the head's very down for you guys to see,
06:17 when I'm coming into here, I need to really look to see
06:20 where I'm going with my fingers,
06:23 so that I hit the right spot.
06:25 And I have balance to the other side,
06:28 which has been cut already, and I'm happy with, so.
06:31 So you start seeing the line build up a little bit.
06:35 An important thing with this too
06:39 is to check across the other side.
06:41 So I'll just take that center section,
06:44 I lift the head straight up.
06:46 We're just gonna check across the middle.
06:48 Make sure there's no little shift.
06:53 - So I know you're gonna get a lot of questions about this,
06:55 but it would not be your preference
06:57 to cut one side, right, first?
07:00 - I would, if I was doing it on my own,
07:03 I would probably work one side to where the weight sits,
07:10 and then the other side to that same point.
07:13 And then, once the weight's in,
07:16 you can follow all the way through.
07:17 So it would be about this point.
07:20 I'd cut to this point, do the same on the other side,
07:22 and then you've set that weight in,
07:24 and then it's really easy to go from there.
07:27 I'll be fiddling a little bit to get the balance,
07:30 because the whole other side is cut right now.
07:32 So you have to section it through,
07:34 and you have to see the two sides together.
07:36 And the other thing is,
07:38 this side was slightly seservicomed already,
07:41 just 'cause we got a little excited about what we were doing
07:44 so we kept going.
07:44 So it's harder to make that balance.
07:49 - Okay, so Mike Watson asked,
07:51 "Are you holding the hair at a 90 degree angle
07:53 "until you reach the top of the ear,
07:54 "and then after that, 45?"
07:57 - That's a great question.
08:00 It's, yeah, 90 degrees,
08:01 so you just get the hair short to the head finger's length
08:04 in a comfortable manner.
08:05 It doesn't go right to 45.
08:09 It slowly becomes more and more,
08:14 or it slowly becomes lower and lower in its elevation.
08:18 I try not to put the numbers to it too much,
08:19 but eventually it becomes a bob,
08:21 so at that point, there won't be any elevation to it,
08:25 except for even my fingers.
08:27 My fingers kind of fit in the cup of the head,
08:29 so I try very carefully to just hold that hair
08:32 right where it lives, and then you get that line.
08:36 So you kind of go from nothing,
08:37 and gradually into the line.
08:40 - Good question.
08:43 - Okay, so Daniel Diaz is asking,
08:45 "If you have any tips for big girls
08:47 "with almost no neck and high-density frizzy hair?"
08:50 Anything that's about lengthening the neck and that?
08:53 - Well, I think, I mean,
08:56 that's what you have to think about.
08:57 It could go both ways.
08:58 Wider neck, take the hair away.
09:01 Yeah, I think when I talk about suitability,
09:03 and when I'm here in the academy,
09:04 and we do a suitability lecture,
09:06 I talk to a student about suitability,
09:08 I start with a blanket statement,
09:11 which is, "Classic beauty is balance."
09:15 And I think if you start with that,
09:17 that's a good point to reference.
09:20 So in the case of the question,
09:23 if it's a really narrow neck,
09:25 you'd want to actually leave weight on it.
09:30 And if it's a really wider neck, then you take it away.
09:33 So this could work really beautiful.
09:35 Where you plant the weight and the edge of the line
09:38 also has to be balanced as well.
09:41 So not just where you take away, but where you build it up.
09:44 So where there would be water
09:45 isn't necessarily where you want to leave that,
09:48 if that makes sense.
09:49 So it's just a game of proportion and balance,
09:53 balancing out the bone structure,
09:56 and also balancing out the facial features.
10:00 So I think in the beginning,
10:01 we learn the head's round and it's one thing,
10:06 and then the more and more experience you get,
10:07 you have this area, you have this area,
10:09 you have that area, and you break it up.
10:11 And it's the same with the face shape.
10:13 - We have a question from Kate Critchlow.
10:18 Would it not be easier to shave beneath the head?
10:20 - Yeah, but we don't always do things easier,
10:23 in an easier way.
10:24 Not for me, anyway.
10:27 I don't know, I don't know if it's easier.
10:29 I mean, there's a couple ways you can do this.
10:31 Some people really love to do this as an undercut.
10:34 At soon, if there's anything,
10:39 I think it's about precision cut,
10:40 and if we could do it in the fingers,
10:41 you're gonna get your shape in the fingers first.
10:44 And I think it's more,
10:47 I mean, handcrafted is the word, really.
10:49 Your hands have a feeling to them
10:51 that you can't get out of a clipper.
10:53 It's a machine.
10:54 If you want to take hair off
10:56 and you want to take it off quickly,
10:58 yeah, and obviously, yeah,
10:59 clippers are a great way of doing that.
11:01 This is an undercut.
11:02 This is cut from a layer into a really heavy graduation.
11:06 And it's a beautiful way to cut hair.
11:10 Once you kind of get the hang of it,
11:14 it's not any harder than doing anything else.
11:16 Is that answer, hopefully, in a nice way?
11:23 I think the word I use a lot is efficient.
11:29 I think when you're working in the salon,
11:31 instead of making things easier,
11:33 it's really important to be efficient with your time
11:36 and use good time management.
11:39 And the way to achieve that in a precise haircut,
11:42 a really well-cut haircut,
11:45 is to have your plan and a system in place
11:48 and not backtrack and cut things two or three times.
11:52 And that's really the key to making things,
11:55 let's say, easier.
11:57 (clippers clicking)
12:00 So you section clean,
12:01 comb the hair into place, cut once.
12:05 - At what point do you start thinking about
12:07 the corners of the shape?
12:09 - Yeah, that's a good one.
12:10 Right now, actually, right?
12:11 So this is a square shape.
12:16 And I think what's really important in doing this
12:19 is to realize, especially on Sophia's head,
12:23 she has a beautiful head shape,
12:25 really curved, great occipital bone.
12:27 But also in saying that, if you just follow that,
12:31 you're gonna get either that or you'll get that.
12:34 And most people that I've trained to start
12:37 in the early stages of doing a box bob
12:39 usually get that, like a graduated bob
12:41 where it comes down at the ear.
12:43 But if you think to get a really square shape,
12:46 you need to fill in the rounds of the head.
12:48 So you'd kind of build a corner somewhat here
12:52 where the head curves in,
12:54 and then you'd come back this way.
12:55 So you actually have a corner of weight in the line,
12:58 just like you would if you've learned
13:00 a basic layer in the air.
13:02 That same thing applies to here.
13:04 So I'll show you when I get it in my fingers.
13:07 So working.
13:08 So if you notice, my fingers aren't following
13:12 the head shape.
13:13 I've come off the head shape here,
13:15 and I'm working this line as if I'm doing,
13:17 like, to infinite them.
13:19 It's just gonna continue out this way.
13:22 And then I position myself on the shoulder,
13:24 and then I'll come out this way.
13:26 And that'll leave a little bit of length there,
13:28 opposed to this, this, and this.
13:32 - How important is body posture when cutting hair?
13:38 - Super important is body position for balance.
13:41 Getting both sides the same.
13:45 Getting the hair to do what you want it to do.
13:50 And another thing which is really important, I think,
13:54 is for ourselves, doing what we do
13:58 for long periods of time, every day, in and out.
14:01 If your body position is good,
14:02 you don't feel as tired at the end of the day.
14:06 You'd be mentally tired, I think,
14:07 from your conversations with your clients
14:10 and things like that.
14:11 But I think body-wise, you'll feel much stronger.
14:15 So what I mean by that, I think,
14:16 is just having good body position,
14:18 natural body position, good posture.
14:20 So really using the hydraulics of the chair
14:24 or in your knees and not bending at the back,
14:26 which a lot of hairdressers do.
14:28 So really kind of going up and down.
14:33 So it's really super important for balance
14:38 and equally important for ourselves
14:41 to have long-term careers
14:43 and good postures at the end of it all.
14:45 (audience member speaking faintly)
14:48 - Martina says, "Thank you for the comb tip.
14:51 "Very helpful."
14:52 - Yeah, it was enlightening.
14:54 When I figured that out, I was like, "I got this.
14:56 "I can do a box bob now."
14:57 - And we have a, Carolyn Lam is saying,
15:01 "When you're cutting, do you put product in your hair?"
15:06 - Typically, no.
15:07 Water, consistency is really key
15:11 with having the hair evenly damp
15:13 when you're cutting hair in a very precise manner
15:15 for control purposes.
15:17 I have a little bit of product in today,
15:21 and that's more for just time management
15:23 for this Facebook Live,
15:26 so I can get a nice little half a haircut in
15:28 and not have a big blow dry for you guys.
15:30 So I've just prepped it for that.
15:33 And so there's our little shape.
15:34 You can almost see that corner in there, right?
15:37 And that's important.
15:39 When you comb the hair in and it sits there,
15:42 you don't see it,
15:43 but you also don't see the line come up at the back.
15:46 Hopefully.
15:47 I don't know, Randy, but you see.
15:48 Use your mirror.
15:51 That's a great thing.
15:52 So the square is just the same equal proportion
15:55 from there to there.
15:56 So I'm good with that.
15:59 All right.
16:02 So you just continue on from here now.
16:04 Gentler with your touch.
16:05 - So Carrie Ann de Blasio, sorry to interrupt.
16:07 - Go ahead.
16:08 - Beautiful color is ever natural.
16:11 She's naturally soft pink.
16:14 Now this is a fantastic color by our color director, Lucas.
16:19 And he's gonna come up, give us a formula.
16:21 We have a formula written on the board,
16:22 but he's also gonna come up and talk about it.
16:24 He did a bleach and tone this morning
16:27 and I'm not really sure exactly what he mixed up
16:29 for the toner, but it is beautiful.
16:32 He is a genius with color, I think, if anybody's ever.
16:36 And he's a genius about talking about color as well.
16:39 He's an amazing teacher based here in the academy.
16:42 So if you see that kind of continuing out,
16:50 that's kind of the key to this,
16:52 opposed to coming down and in.
16:56 I think in my hands it is anyway.
17:00 - What brand color is it?
17:01 - Wella.
17:03 Wella, at all our Sassoon Academies
17:04 and salons in North America, we use Wella color.
17:08 (laughs)
17:10 - Are these micro balls popular for 2017?
17:15 - I think it's a timeless look, really.
17:18 I think it's an absolute timeless look.
17:21 - Katie DeLuca says, "You're making me wanna come back
17:23 "to Sassoon, I love Sassoon education."
17:25 - Yay, that's what it's about really, isn't it?
17:28 It's ongoing.
17:29 I never left, like I said, I came 20 years ago,
17:32 I never left.
17:36 Yeah, I think you can never,
17:39 never have a time in your life
17:41 that you don't learn something new.
17:43 And with hair, I think there is definite principles
17:47 to cutting hair that stay the same and remain the same,
17:50 but I think our experience level changes,
17:52 so every time you come back here
17:55 with a different experience level,
17:57 you absolutely learn the same thing
18:02 at a higher learning level, if that makes sense.
18:06 And that to me is so exciting,
18:09 because you can get better and better and better
18:13 at doing the same thing.
18:14 One of the teachers here, we were talking about it,
18:16 he said, "It's not about practice makes perfect,
18:20 "but practicing perfectly."
18:22 And I love that saying, practicing perfectly.
18:25 It's Randall.
18:27 - Using a lot or a little attention?
18:29 - A lot, I use a lot of attention.
18:31 - That's from Tina Paulson, thank you for the question.
18:31 - Thanks, Tina.
18:34 I use a lot of attention.
18:36 You don't have to, but in graduating,
18:38 I know that if I use the attention,
18:40 I'm gonna get the edge to bevel,
18:41 which is gonna give it more of a modern feel.
18:45 I think now silhouettes have a bevel to them.
18:48 So you just have to be careful, obviously,
18:51 with the attention that you don't use it
18:53 wrongly in the wrong places.
18:54 So in the crown, I'm a little looser here,
18:57 'cause this is where the hair moves around and swirls.
19:00 Most people will take this hair,
19:02 comb it back here and cut it here,
19:05 and then it kinda moves over there,
19:07 and you get something else.
19:08 So I really watch the roots of the hair,
19:11 and I cut it really where it lives,
19:13 and as I work up to the crown,
19:14 I hold it gentler and gentler.
19:17 - How big are your sections?
19:20 - Small enough to see through the guide.
19:24 So it depends on the hair, how big the sections are.
19:28 It depends on the hair, the texture of the hair,
19:31 transparency, density, I guess, of the hair.
19:34 So what I want is when I'm cutting,
19:37 that I can see through the hair.
19:38 I'm kinda running out now,
19:40 but so this is a minuscule example,
19:44 but you wanna see through it like trace paper.
19:46 What I see a lot of people do,
19:47 just from teaching the things I say, I say,
19:50 lift hair up to see what's there,
19:53 and that's another movement.
19:56 So I'd rather just see it through, cut it,
19:58 and I'm done.
19:59 Cut it again, it's done.
20:01 It's clean, there's no doubt it was on the guide,
20:03 and we're good to go.
20:05 Allison's put up a little head sheet too.
20:12 I think head sheets are cool,
20:13 because it lets you draw it or map it out.
20:16 And we'll talk about, this is Allison, say hi, Al.
20:19 (laughing)
20:23 Again, it's about being efficient,
20:25 knowing your plan before you start it,
20:27 so you can get to your end result
20:30 with the best possible technique.
20:33 I'm just running out through the top,
20:38 and just section it off,
20:41 tie in whatever ties into the line.
20:56 Anything that falls over, you can check in.
20:58 And the crown's the tricky part.
21:02 So you can see there's a lot of movement in the crown.
21:05 And that swirl, so that's really retention,
21:09 has to kind of let up.
21:11 You can even, some people I know would let that dry,
21:14 and cut it in dry.
21:15 Would you tell them?
21:19 - You said hi to Daniel Passore.
21:21 - Ah, Daniel, I wrote him a little message last night.
21:23 Did he get it?
21:25 Daniel, did you get the message?
21:27 - He's typing away now.
21:30 - Katie says it looks amazing on the model.
21:37 - So good with this color, right?
21:40 Thank you, Katie.
21:41 Maybe we should get Lucas to come up, maybe--
21:44 - They're asking for your Instagram, and also,
21:46 oh, Daniel said yes, thank you.
21:48 They're asking for your Instagram and Sissoons.
21:51 - Yeah, we have it, we have it written on the board,
21:53 don't we?
21:53 Mine is chasysack_hair.
21:57 If you don't do the hair part, you're gonna get my son,
21:59 Charlie, who's lovely, but has nothing to do with hair.
22:02 Oh, yes, go ahead.
22:04 So chasysack_hair.
22:06 And obviously, you can find what the whole of the team
22:09 internationally is doing,
22:10 always on Sissoon Academy official.
22:13 - And Lucy says, she is so beautiful, love the haircut.
22:18 - Hi, Lucy.
22:23 - Hi, Lucy.
22:24 - Here he comes.
22:29 - Where is Sissoon, KC Spence is asking.
22:33 - Where is Sissoon?
22:34 Where we're live today is in Santa Monica.
22:39 So this is the Sissoon Academy in Santa Monica, California.
22:43 But you can also find us in other locations.
22:47 We have an amazing school and team in Toronto,
22:51 and we have two-day courses that we run out of New York,
22:54 Boston and Atlanta, which are really great for refreshers.
22:59 And we're also in Chicago, we have an amazing teacher,
23:05 Travis, who's recently done a Facebook Live,
23:08 I think, as well for American.
23:10 And Seattle, San Francisco.
23:14 Yeah, that's where we are.
23:16 We're easily accessible these days, which is amazing.
23:19 - You can see it, too.
23:20 - And yeah, well, soon, in a couple weeks,
23:23 myself, the whole of the team, and Mark Hayes
23:26 will be at ISSE on the main stage doing a classroom.
23:30 We'll be joining Hairbrained at the teach-ins.
23:34 So we've got some good stuff to come.
23:36 It's kinda always going on here, so I kinda forget.
23:40 So there we go.
23:41 Go ahead.
23:42 - Is there any plans to bring Sissoon Academy
23:44 to South America?
23:45 - I can come any time.
23:48 Who has time?
23:49 (laughing)
23:51 - That was Daniel Diaz.
23:53 - I would love to.
23:55 Where in South America is Daniel?
23:57 - And Michael Haas says hello.
24:01 - Hi, Michael.
24:02 I'll be seeing him next week.
24:04 Thank you, Women's Health, as well.
24:07 - And Robin Laughlin says she can't wait to see this style.
24:10 So we will post a finished picture, for sure.
24:13 - Yeah, we will post it.
24:14 Okay, so this is a tricky little thing
24:17 that I like to do to just make this kinda look now.
24:22 I'm not such a historically heritage kind of box bob.
24:27 I think the silhouettes to things now are much more lean
24:32 and have dynamics internally.
24:34 So there's some layering.
24:35 If layering isn't through the top on this,
24:37 I really wanna layer through the edge and the underneath.
24:41 And it's kind of something that I've done,
24:43 I do now on all my bobs.
24:45 So if you just section from the high point of the brow
24:48 or the center of the eye back, high on the head,
24:50 pretty high on the head, comb the hair back,
24:53 let it just break in that area, get the top out of your way.
24:57 It's really nice to do this on the hair dry,
25:00 but right now this is where we're at, so I'll do it wet.
25:03 And it's from the mastoid forward.
25:06 You just kinda can section that.
25:08 I'm gonna lift that up
25:09 and just layer the little edge off the line.
25:12 It's not a lot of hair that goes, but it means a lot.
25:14 And it creates a little bit of a separation
25:16 between the hair that falls over it.
25:21 Lucas, is that you there?
25:25 - Yes, I am. - Come on in.
25:27 You're getting lots of compliments on this beautiful color.
25:30 This is Lucas, everyone.
25:33 And Lucas did Sophia's color this morning.
25:38 I've let them know that it was well enough to use,
25:41 but you can kinda get into the specifics, Lucas.
25:44 - Yeah, so a classic bleaching tone.
25:48 So six week outgrowth, level seven natural.
25:52 Went with Blondor powder, 20 volume.
25:58 Mixing ratio one to 1.5 with a developer.
26:04 And it was about 45 minutes.
26:09 And didn't pull through the end,
26:11 just lifted the roots up to pale level 10.
26:15 And then toned with the formulation of 40 grams 1016,
26:20 which is an ash violet.
26:24 10 grams of 916, so a little bit deeper ash violet.
26:30 Five grams of 5.5, which is a level five red violet.
26:36 And then five grams of nine stroke seven,
26:40 which is a level nine brunette.
26:42 And that was with 10 volume, mixing ratio one to one.
26:47 So equal parts.
26:49 Did the roots.
26:52 - Lots of I love it, I love it.
26:54 - Did the roots for 10 minutes,
26:57 and then went right back through,
26:59 and pulled it through the ends,
27:00 and then let it sit for half an hour.
27:02 - What is the trick to your bleaches being,
27:07 'cause the hair feels, it doesn't feel like bleached hair.
27:10 At all, it's beautiful.
27:12 - Deciding of course, the product you're using.
27:17 So using a powder, but mixing ratio one to 1.5.
27:22 And then developer always with us.
27:25 20 volume, nothing a little higher,
27:28 because then it does compromise the hair a little bit.
27:32 And then deciding toners.
27:36 Again, using 10 volume.
27:38 There's many products you can use.
27:40 You can use Color Touch, which is a demi-permanent.
27:43 You can use Lumina,
27:46 which is a permanent hair color from Wella.
27:48 It's a violet rose base,
27:50 but you can use that with Sixth Developer from Color Touch.
27:55 So really thinking about,
27:57 you've got the hair in a high porosity,
28:01 and how to bring that back down.
28:03 Great.
28:06 - Genius, thank you.
28:07 Thanks Sixth.
28:08 Okay, so let's get the fringe in.
28:10 I think it'd be really cool,
28:13 I think with something this short,
28:14 to take really short fringe,
28:16 so this actually kind of becomes longer.
28:19 So that's what I'm gonna do with Sophia.
28:20 I'm just gonna get the length cut in the fingers.
28:23 Now when I work a fringe,
28:24 I tend to work more parallel to the hairline with it.
28:29 Hi.
28:34 - Come on in.
28:37 - Yeah, come on in Julia.
28:38 - Oh, hi.
28:38 - Come on in.
28:39 You all set?
28:44 You all good?
28:45 - Yeah, let's get the real behind the scenes.
28:46 - Yeah, real behind the scenes.
28:47 We're prepping for a shoot.
28:48 This is lovely Julia.
28:50 - Hi.
28:51 - And amazing turn by Lucas.
28:53 And we're just gonna make it really dark, really rich.
28:57 And I'm gonna just reshape it slightly.
28:59 And we're gonna do a photo shoot actually
29:01 with Robert Lovato,
29:03 which I'm really looking forward to on Sunday.
29:05 So we've got a lot going on today.
29:08 So rich, dark, no red left.
29:10 Nice and rich.
29:12 - Okay, perfect.
29:13 - Lovely.
29:14 - See you in a bit.
29:15 - See you in a bit.
29:16 Yep.
29:17 We could have done two.
29:18 We could have cut her as well.
29:19 So yeah, Julia actually was cut on,
29:21 we have a course called the collection course,
29:23 which is amazing.
29:24 Mark comes in and we have some of our top clients
29:28 of the academy, really amazing hairdressers that come in
29:32 and wanna work off our latest collections.
29:37 So we do a masterclass in the evening
29:38 and then we do two days of hands on cut and color.
29:41 So we did Julia, the really lovely lady,
29:43 we cut hair together and cut Julia's hair.
29:47 And I find that's the thing that's really cool
29:50 is when you cut hair and you have an idea,
29:53 but then you work it out with someone else.
29:55 Maybe this is why I teach
29:56 and just become something even more amazing.
29:58 Nevermind the person that's on,
30:00 but actually sharing hair and having two sets of hands
30:03 or three in this case,
30:05 'cause we had Lucas on the perm.
30:06 - Katie says she always wants to take it,
30:07 but it's always filled.
30:09 - It is booked a year in advance, but you know what?
30:12 This year we've put one in in the summer,
30:14 in the spring, late spring.
30:14 - Oh, Ashley wants to know what you're doing
30:15 with the fringe.
30:16 - Yeah, oh, sorry.
30:18 Yeah, don't worry, we'll do that.
30:19 What I'm doing is graduating the fringe, right?
30:22 So I'm lifting the fringe, lots of tension.
30:25 Okay, so I just have the edge that can bevel.
30:29 I want it to bevel onto the skin,
30:32 I don't want it to stack out from the skin.
30:35 I'm just gonna do a few sections,
30:36 get the little shape in,
30:37 and then I'm gonna show you the little--
30:39 - They're asking if we can post the color formula.
30:41 Yes, we will.
30:43 - Yeah, Lucas can type it in.
30:45 Okay, so just parallel sections to the hairline,
30:50 lots of tension.
30:52 Don't go too far back now,
30:53 'cause I don't like to cut that away in this case.
30:57 So I'll work, you know, there's some short bits in there,
30:59 but I'll work that out.
31:01 I'll work that out later when the hair's dry.
31:03 One more section, then we'll do the other side.
31:06 I have a little peak in the middle
31:07 of how I'm working, but I'll work that out.
31:10 I might need it.
31:12 - Does he have a toner that I'm gonna--
31:18 - All of it. - I told you,
31:21 you're gonna have to talk.
31:22 - Yeah, all of it.
31:23 I think that's all the toner.
31:25 - Can you tell us what the toner was?
31:28 What was used to tone?
31:29 - So the toner is 40 grams, 10 stroke, one six kb,
31:34 plus 10 grams, nine stroke, one six kb,
31:38 plus five grams, five stroke, five,
31:41 plus five grams, nine stroke, seven,
31:43 plus 10 volume.
31:45 - Thanks. - Thanks, Al.
31:47 - I hope that was right.
31:48 - Sounded right, sounded good.
31:50 - Julie Teer says the cut is beautiful.
31:52 - For those of you that don't know that we're laughing,
31:56 obviously, not obviously, but I'll let you know
31:58 that it's as soon as it's departmentalized.
32:01 I know what I want to see in color,
32:03 but it's another whole 'nother language to me.
32:06 Hi, Allison.
32:08 Okay, so same on the other side.
32:15 It's best to stand on the same side that you're cutting
32:19 while you're cutting it so that you don't over-direct
32:21 too much and just keep swapping spots with your end.
32:23 (laughs)
32:25 - What?
32:33 - Medium Shirley crosses where she's not gonna have
32:36 any hair left.
32:37 She's actually growing it out.
32:39 - Yeah, the hair will be left in all the right places.
32:43 That's the key.
32:44 The hair will be left in all the right places.
32:48 - Okay, I'm gonna leave you for a second.
32:52 I'm gonna go over to the color formula.
32:54 - Go ahead.
32:54 - There's somebody asking.
32:55 - Yeah.
32:56 - Okay, get ready to scream, Kat, okay?
32:58 - Yes.
32:59, - What is the website to enroll for the classes?
33:04 - Sassoon.com.
33:27 I think you'll find the schedule of all our courses.
33:29 Sassoon.com or they can call,
33:33 all our administration from all of North America
33:35 is out of here in Santa Monica.
33:37 And there's a lovely girl that looks after booking everybody.
33:40 Her name is Alana and you can call her.
33:44 We can put in contact numbers, right, in the comments.
33:50 But yeah, online, you can fill out an application online.
33:56 And the numbers to reach as well.
34:00 We've just released the schedule right before the holidays
34:06 for all of North America for all our academies,
34:09 which is really exciting.
34:11 And the last couple of days,
34:13 I've had all the teachers here
34:14 for what we call teacher training.
34:16 So even we are dedicated to getting better and better
34:21 on a regular basis.
34:23 This academy here,
34:24 we do a weekly teacher training with all of our team,
34:26 which is amazing.
34:27 This academy here, we actually have cosmetology,
34:30 which I love.
34:32 There's nothing like teaching just the ones
34:35 that have never touched hair.
34:36 And 'cause they're here for 10 months
34:39 for a cosmetology program,
34:42 you get to really see them develop.
34:44 And I love kind of going to a show
34:46 and having one of our students,
34:48 our students are doing something like this
34:50 and somebody's saying hi,
34:51 and you know that they're doing so well
34:53 and they're doing beautiful hair
34:55 and it's so satisfying to see that
34:57 being carried on through students.
35:00 This is student Ethos.
35:03 - Dwight Woodson Jr. says, "Thank you, Tracy.
35:06 Elegance."
35:07 - Okay, so let's see what we have.
35:12 Just so I've cut the fringe,
35:13 it's a slight what we'd call urtae,
35:14 a little bit longer in the tip.
35:16 I'll decide if I'm gonna leave that when I dry the hair.
35:21 And I'll have another kind of little panel fringe left
35:25 that I'll cut on top of that.
35:27 So I've cut that down like that, both sides,
35:29 then I've brought it back,
35:30 so it's just layered it slightly.
35:32 And then the next one will be just cut over it.
35:35 So there'll be a little disconnection in the fringe,
35:38 which just gets it to fit the head nicer.
35:41 So I'm gonna just hit it with a little bit of heat
35:44 and then do my refinement.
35:45 You can see in the sides,
35:49 the disconnection from the little layer that I created.
35:52 So classically, if this was cut without the layer,
35:57 all that hair would look very different.
35:59 So that's the little corner I took off.
36:02 And then that's everything that ties onto the line.
36:05 So it just creates a little space through there,
36:07 which is great to kind of dress and move the hair around.
36:10 So it's layered,
36:11 but it's layered through the rounds of the head
36:14 instead of through the surface of the hair.
36:16 - Okay.
36:17 All right, let's just get a little blow drying here.
36:20 Nice head sheet, Allison.
36:22 - It's good.
36:22 - We'll take a look at the head sheet.
36:26 Wanna walk us through?
36:29 - Sure.
36:30 So starting with the back,
36:33 this is a little diagram key.
36:35 So we worked with the black section here.
36:38 That would be like any sections that are major areas
36:41 that you've sectioned off or a parting.
36:44 And then the green sections
36:46 are the sections that you use for cutting.
36:49 The blue would be your cutting angle
36:50 or an expanded form of the haircut.
36:53 And a red arrow is how you direct the hair.
36:56 A little red dot means that you didn't over direct the hair.
36:59 So there was a question earlier
37:01 where someone asked if Tracy was holding the hair
37:03 on at a 90 degree angle here.
37:05 So these were just pulled straight out from the head.
37:08 This would be the buildup of weight
37:11 and all of the sections are directed down to that point.
37:16 This is the side view that shows
37:17 the expanded form of Sophia's hair.
37:20 And the little Xs are indicating a scissor over combed area.
37:25 So after working here with no elevation,
37:29 taking the hair down to a finger's length,
37:32 you can't take the hair any shorter than that.
37:33 So that's when Tracy switched
37:35 to a scissor over comb technique.
37:37 Now this one gets a little confusing in here.
37:40 All of the sections were brought down,
37:42 kind of Sophia's cheekbone area, just top of the ear.
37:47 And then the last thing Tracy did was lift the hair up
37:51 to create a little layer on the underneath,
37:54 a concave layer to lighten the hair.
37:57 So that's what that shows.
37:58 And these are the sections from a bird's eye view.
38:01 This I'm waiting for Tracy to finish the fringe
38:03 to do a little diagram of what that looks like.
38:07 - Thank you.
38:11 (water rushing)
38:13 - So I'm gonna do a quick blow dry
38:15 so I can really have the time to finish this for you guys.
38:18 Still just what we call flat wrap, flat back brush,
38:23 keeping the hair hugging the skull,
38:25 using the shape of the skull almost like a roller
38:28 to get the hair to bend and sit and bevel.
38:31 Constantly moving, not putting any definite parting in.
38:36 You really want the hair to just have movement and flow.
38:40 I love hair in motion,
38:41 so I rarely blow dry it in a set manner.
38:44 These are like when they tilt their head
38:48 and you can see the technique in the hair,
38:52 you're moving around and things like that.
38:54 Any other questions?
39:01 Now's a good time for questions I think, right?
39:07 (indistinct)
39:10 - Sophie's an artist, right?
39:18 - Yeah, Sophie is an illustrator.
39:21 Amazing.
39:22 You do animation, right, Sophie?
39:24 - I think that's like an interesting thing to talk about,
39:27 like the suitability aspect of being an artist.
39:30 - Yeah, I mean, I think when you talk about suitability,
39:32 there's some classic rules that can,
39:35 but they can all go out the window
39:36 and you have somebody that can wear something.
39:39 And hair, if it's cut well,
39:42 and it's the right thing on the right person,
39:43 that's when people take a second look.
39:46 And I love doing a haircut on somebody
39:48 and then I go look at their Instagram a week later,
39:51 see what they're doing,
39:52 see how they're living with their hair.
39:54 And it almost always looks better
39:57 when it's a bit lived in and they're in their environment,
40:01 wearing their clothes and doing their thing.
40:04 But I absolutely, the person underneath
40:06 is always my inspiration.
40:08 And this could be a very,
40:11 I mean, this is a classic haircut.
40:12 It's just that the lengths that I chose
40:14 make it look really extreme.
40:16 That's the length.
40:19 Next time you see her, she'll be there.
40:21 She's looking like she just came out of a salon.
40:25 - How short was it before?
40:26 What's the shortest haircut you've had?
40:29 - Just straight up the sides, just this on the top.
40:33 - You can see a lot of Sophia's different looks.
40:36 She's again, one of my regular models and uses.
40:40 If you look at my Instagram,
40:41 you can see variations of hair on Sophia and colors.
40:46 - Yeah, the whole thing was just her old home before.
40:51 - Right.
40:52 - Woody, do you have anything to say to people
41:00 who are afraid to do different things with their hair?
41:03 - It's just hair.
41:04 At the end of the day, it all grows back.
41:09 It all goes back to whatever your natural color is.
41:12 It's not gonna kill you.
41:16 - It's so important to people though
41:18 because it's their look.
41:19 I think the girls that I work on, I think--
41:23 - I don't wanna ruin anybody with their haircut.
41:25 - I'm so kind of thoughtful of them.
41:27 I think that's really important.
41:29 Thoughtful to the wearer.
41:31 And you know when you first touch someone,
41:33 you don't kind of just go for it, do you?
41:35 You kind of have to figure out who they are.
41:37 And then usually any changes I do become from them.
41:41 You know, there's a balance and proportion
41:43 for a moment in time, I think.
41:45 But what you actually do really is because of them, for sure.
41:50 And the more you know someone,
41:51 I mean some of the girls I've been cutting for years,
41:54 just like you would a client's health.
41:56 - Same, it suits her so well.
41:59 - It's so good on her.
42:01 That was the quickest project I've ever done.
42:05 - Could you do this with curly hair?
42:07 - Sure, yeah, it would be amazing on curly hair as well.
42:10 The fringe, you know, the lengths have to vary for texture.
42:13 That's the wonderful thing.
42:16 When you have strong technique,
42:18 your length and texture is your variable.
42:20 You just keep everything cut really well,
42:23 understand what technique and the principles of hair are,
42:27 and then you can do anything on anyone, really,
42:31 in any one texture.
42:33 So on curly hair, you imagine you just have this beautiful,
42:38 what we call thatch shape,
42:40 and the fringe, if you cut it short enough,
42:42 cuts the curl out,
42:43 so you have a really tight, short little fringe.
42:45 All right, so fringe,
42:50 I'm gonna just work over the head, put some tension on it,
42:54 and just get this cut in and then right over there.
42:57 So I'm gonna sink down a little bit to it.
43:01 Over here.
43:02 So if you're worried about going back too far,
43:08 you can section, so what I do is a really curvy triangle.
43:13 You see that?
43:15 I sneak in back there.
43:16 And Sofia's, I'm probably gonna have to do
43:18 a little bit more of it,
43:19 because there's some lengths in there growing out that,
43:23 but you see how it has a curve to it?
43:25 Curves out, so you go wide and deep.
43:29 That make sense?
43:32 Sorry, Randy.
43:35 And the tension is the key to this,
43:44 so that you get just a softer beveled edge.
43:50 (scissors snipping)
43:53 How are we doing for time?
43:58 We keeping people, getting people in?
44:00 - 850 people in this room.
44:02 - What?
44:04 Unreal.
44:05 I love this. - 900.
44:06 - I love this day and age. - 920.
44:08 - So amazing. - 950.
44:12 - Sofia, you're drawing a crowd, my love.
44:15 - 975.
44:17 - My love.
44:18 980.
44:24 - 1000.
44:26 - Yeah.
44:28 So just working with the hand,
44:31 I find working with your hand,
44:32 you can cut the forehead nicer, you know?
44:35 Than when you work this way.
44:37 - I want you to go live more often.
44:39 - I'd love to.
44:40 - And will you be in Europe soon?
44:41 - I'm always live here.
44:43 (laughing)
44:44 - Will you be in Europe soon? - Come see me anytime.
44:46 - I will be hopefully in London for our collection launch,
44:51 which is usually the end of February,
44:53 beginning of March at the Student Academy in London,
44:56 where I get to work with the team there, which is amazing.
45:00 And my time to kind of learn,
45:05 and my time to be part of the bigger picture,
45:07 which is really lovely.
45:08 So it's, yeah, it's just nicer to kind of get it like that.
45:16 It feels better to me.
45:17 I really have control of the head now.
45:22 And hopefully you'll see a nice picture of Sophia as well,
45:32 I'm sure, 'cause we're gonna shoot her on Sunday as well.
45:36 So it's been a great start to the year.
45:40 It's been amazing for me to be able
45:42 to take over American Salon.
45:45 Thank you, Gordon, for giving me the opportunity,
45:47 and I hope I did it right for you.
45:49 And photo shoot, we did teacher training,
45:54 and what's better than that?
45:55 Just dive right into the new year
45:57 with your favorite people,
46:00 surrounded by your favorite people.
46:02 Use your mirror just to see.
46:08 So it just has that really, more of a delicate edge
46:10 than if you just cut it on the skin.
46:13 How far you go back, that's up to you.
46:15 You know, a fringe should,
46:17 I think if you're gonna have a fringe like this, it's broad.
46:19 It goes temple to temple, hairline to hairline.
46:21 It opens up the face.
46:25 Yeah, that, I will,
46:30 yeah, I'll put it up on my Instagram
46:33 when we know for sure, but like I said,
46:34 it's pretty special.
46:36 These are fives, Kari's,
46:39 these are ones that I've used,
46:42 I've always go back to.
46:43 I mean, I've tried loads of different scissors,
46:45 but I always go back to these.
46:46 I think it's just the nature.
46:48 I think scissors are very personal,
46:50 but the nature of the work that we do,
46:52 and that I do, and I'm so focused on the details.
46:55 It's such a beautiful tip to kind of do this kind of work,
46:59 'cause it's refined, but it's not too pointy
47:01 where you're gonna feel like you're gonna hurt someone,
47:04 'cause some of them are too pointy.
47:06 So it's a really nice refinement.
47:08 Rounded tip.
47:09 If anybody ever wants to, I tell them to use them.
47:14 They have to feel good in your hand.
47:15 It's your tool, it's an extension of your hands.
47:19 So these are what I use.
47:22 They're magic scissors.
47:24 That's why I can cut hair like this.
47:25 You wanna try to get rid of that kind of stuff.
47:35 So you don't see anything between there and there.
47:38 Just making sure you know where the hairline is.
48:04 Making sure you know where the hairline is.
48:05 See it right there.
48:06 Isn't it late in Europe?
48:16 What time is it?
48:17 - I don't know.
48:18 - People are up in the middle of the night like me.
48:20 That's what I do at night.
48:21 When everybody in my house is sleeping,
48:23 I go and I get my laptop, and I sit on the couch,
48:28 and I just watch the world.
48:29 Watch what everybody's doing.
48:32 It's so amazing that we can do it now, isn't it?
48:34 And then I just go to do the edge on the sides,
48:46 and this is our comb at the back.
48:48 So this side has been done.
48:50 Just getting there around the edge.
48:53 I'm gonna refine that a little bit.
48:55 Sorry, Sophia.
48:56 Just again, that tension.
48:59 (shaver buzzing)
49:02 Just getting underneath it.
49:05 - It's 10.50 in the morning.
49:24 - That's a weapon.
49:24 I'm sticking it all in the night stuff.
49:28 I love how this sits in the corner of the eye.
49:30 Just, I mean, love her line that she did on her eye.
49:34 And just how the bob sits in the corner of the eyes.
49:39 She's a little jumpy in the hairline.
49:47 That's why this I'm cutting quite blunt.
49:49 'Cause this side, this side grows out.
49:53 There's always one side, I think,
49:54 because of the way, most people,
49:56 'cause the way hair grows around.
49:59 One side comes up and the other side goes down.
50:01 I mean, that's my theory.
50:03 But if you go to scissor over comb Sophia's hair,
50:06 this side sticks out and the other side lays perfectly flat.
50:11 And when you know that,
50:13 you'll then do the pokey side first.
50:15 Do the hard side first.
50:19 - You're asking me again what the make of your scissors are.
50:23 - What's that?
50:24 - Your scissors.
50:25 - Scissors, these are her cars.
50:27 (whispering)
50:29 Micro-pop scissors.
50:31 Bias-part combs,
50:39 caries,
50:41 water on the hair.
50:43 I'm just gonna, last thing I'm gonna do,
50:52 just finish the scissor over comb at the back.
50:53 I think we're there.
50:54 - Cool. - Yeah.
50:56 - All right, I'm gonna wrap it up.
50:58 - Yeah.
50:59 Okay guys, thank you so much for everybody
51:01 who's been through this half of the haircut
51:05 and those who've just joined.
51:07 Thanks for coming.
51:09 It was a pleasure to take over the America's blonde.
51:12 What I've done is this little micro bob
51:16 and lovely Sophia.
51:17 So working from the back in the hairline
51:21 and just horizontal diagonal,
51:25 pivoting up to horizontal sections
51:27 and working through to the front.
51:29 Let's show this side,
51:35 because this is our comb style.
51:37 That's much better, how's that?
51:38 Kind of lighten it up.
51:39 - Yeah.
51:40 - Okay.
51:41 So I'm combing through, you guys can see.
51:43 So working through.
51:45 All the way through to the top of the head, very classical.
51:50 Then taking a section from the high point
51:52 of the brown brow back.
51:55 And you can lift it up and see it straight away,
51:57 this section.
51:59 And just taking the hair and layering over the head.
52:04 Layering the initial.
52:05 Sorry, I put it over here.
52:08 So this is where you would just.
52:11 And layer the hair.
52:22 So basically from the mastoid forward,
52:26 just layer it without taking away the line.
52:29 So you don't really see the layering,
52:31 but what it does is create a separation
52:33 between the hair at the top of the head and the sides.
52:37 So you get that textural feel without texturizing,
52:43 which I think for me is really important.
52:46 If I cut everything bluntly,
52:48 especially on the finer hair, I prefer to.
52:51 For this kind of look, anyway.
52:54 Layered look is different.
52:55 So you can kind of wear it in a dress manner.
52:58 - Such a beautiful.
52:59 - Cute little shape.
53:03 It's just enough, it's just a little bonkers, I think.
53:05 So it's quite classical, but just bonkers enough,
53:07 which I think, see, she's fine.
53:08 (laughing)
53:10 She's a trivia expert, this one.
53:12 She's like an encyclopedia, she knows everything.
53:16 - And an artist.
53:18 - And an artist.
53:20 - All right, well thank you.
53:22 - Thank you. - Close us out.
53:23 - All right, thanks guys.
53:24 It's always a pleasure to share hair.
53:26 Thanks American Salon for giving me this time
53:28 and let me take over.
53:29 [BLANK_AUDIO]