• last year
Transcript
00:00 Good evening! This is it at last! Woo! We finally got some Wi-Fi and we got some live.
00:06 We did think to begin with that people would not be able to see what's going on.
00:10 Good evening! Now I feel really fired up because obviously we've just made a
00:14 video for you. Easy there with the camera, easy. Right so, since you've been away in
00:20 the absence just for a moment, we've made the video for you, the beginning part, so
00:23 you can rewind that back and see what's going on. Instead let's go on with the
00:27 haircuts. I really just want to get into cutting this. I've been dying to do this
00:29 haircut. So, great pleasure tonight to be here, recorded live from Scott Bailey
00:34 hairdressing and we are live tonight with the beautiful Helen Bailey.
00:39 Spelt completely different to my spelling of Bailey but it's very kind of Helen to
00:43 be here as a model. Also we're very proud to be sponsored by Mook Hair Care
00:47 tonight from Australia. Thank you very much. Also thanks to my dad for doing the
00:52 filming. We've started to prepare the haircut but what we're going to do is we're just
00:55 going to rewind back into that. We'll use some Mook blowout mousse because we're
00:59 going for volume tonight with the haircut. We'll be using a graduated
01:04 bob shape with a few different things, i.e. raised layers and we'll also be using
01:09 scissors and a few other bits and bobs and electric clippers. It's going to be
01:12 that type of thing that we're going to be working. So, as Hannah said earlier on
01:16 when she visited me in the salon today, she said it's that type of thing. So,
01:19 tonight it is that type of thing. We are going to make it special. We are going to
01:23 make it interesting even though we are some 35 minutes behind. I'm sure that
01:28 you will enjoy tonight's third presentation out of seven because of
01:32 course we're doing seven here live from the salon. So, we hope you really enjoy
01:36 tonight. Let's get into the haircut. So, we're going to be using Mook blowout
01:44 mousse tonight which is the sculpting foam that we're going to use in here. As I
01:48 always say, a haircut starts at the very beginning with the lotion. Now, obviously
01:55 this lotion contains conditioner. As with many, if you put it into a glass it
02:00 basically displaces then at the bottom and turns into conditioner. Hair
02:04 generally is like a fabric. I tend to find that obviously we want to be able
02:10 to mould the fabric into the shape we want. This then starts the game off
02:15 because I do think hair dressing is like a game. What you'll find is that it
02:20 also enables you to see the natural fall in the hair. So, as I'm cutting it I can
02:24 move it around and see how the haircut moves which is nice. The exciting thing
02:29 about tonight, the exciting thing about tonight is that I've never cut Helen's
02:35 hair before. So, it's quite exciting because it's a fresh haircut the same as
02:40 Ian's haircut I did last week. That was exactly the same. It was a fresh haircut.
02:45 Nikki Gower's next week, the model that will be with us, she'll also be a fresh
02:49 haircut. So, it's great because as I said it's live and it's also an opportunity
02:54 for me to do something that's challenging and showcase here at the
02:57 salon what we can do live and direct for you. To those of you that have just
03:03 joined us, welcome. We'll probably be cutting now for about the next 20-22
03:08 minutes. For those of you that are putting your children to bed or you've
03:12 got your wife or husband cooking food for you, we'll then come into the blow-dry
03:17 which we'll be using an array of products which we've got here. If you just
03:20 take a little look to the side, you'll see we're going to be using some
03:23 conditioner, tonight we'll be using some spray. We'll be coming
03:27 into it with gentlemen's paste to do the blow-dry. We'll also be using slick muck
03:32 pomade at the end and we'll also be going into it with a diffuser to finish
03:36 off. So again, most people go into smooth looks. We're going to be finishing
03:42 off tonight with a very curly finish. As I said earlier on, we'll be using a razor
03:47 blade and a few other bits. Again, looking at the bones that are in the skull, we're
03:51 working tonight here from the apex through to the occipital bone. Again, the
03:56 nice thing is the product allows us to keep the haircut nice and clean. Again,
04:01 because as I said to the girls that were working with me today on Work Experience,
04:06 it's all about the attention to detail which is very important. So all I'm doing
04:13 now is really just setting the cut up first and then I'll explain to you how
04:16 I'm going to do this. For those of you that joined us on the first haircut,
04:22 we did a razor cut
04:27 variation of this haircut which again with a razor cut is really nice because
04:31 it makes it very soft. I'm going to bring the razor into this haircut very
04:35 shortly but I want to do a majority of this with a pair of scissors just to show you.
04:38 To begin with, cutting through the comb, it's a nice straight line. You can get a
04:42 really good line off it and then we'll go straight into the layers. I'm just going to
04:45 show you very, very quickly the layering system that we're going to use and then
04:49 I'll get into the cut. Okay, let's have a quick look. So when we do the layers in
04:53 the back very shortly, we'll be using the legs of a spider. It's that
04:58 sort of thing that when you look at it, you've got six o'clock, seven o'clock,
05:02 eight o'clock, nine o'clock and then the body will move as we do that. Now for
05:07 those hairdressers that are watching tonight, what generally happens is it
05:11 takes the corner off. These haircuts, when we do the layering, you pull it back
05:14 traditionally into the back of the hair which is into the occipital bone, the
05:18 protruding bone that's in the back of the skull and then it would then
05:21 naturally fall forward. This time we're going to take the corners off and you
05:25 will find that the shape will then be more stronger through this part behind
05:29 the ear which then makes the haircut look stronger, thus making it a little bit
05:33 more personalised to what we're doing here tonight. Let's get some scissors.
05:37 It's always exciting. I always remember when I did the first haircut in
05:47 the kitchen, I did my mum's hair, I always remember doing that haircut as I'm sure
05:50 we all do, when you just combed it all down and did the cut and thought this is
05:54 really easy and there's just a massive chunk of hair as you were cutting it in the
05:57 blade and then the haircut ended up going like that, like this wavy sort of haircut.
06:03 And of course we went to hairdressing school and it all just became apparent
06:07 what it was all about. Obviously you take it in sections, keeping it clean. The
06:11 smaller the section, the cleaner it is. So let's have a little look at what we're
06:15 doing here. We're working in three sections. So we're looking at subdividing the haircut
06:19 into three parts. Obviously we're working on a geometrical shape. The beautiful
06:23 thing about a comb is that you can actually use the comb to create the
06:29 actual angle that you want. So let's just place that on now, put the scissors on
06:33 and create a really nice line. Okay, then literally the beauty of doing the third
06:38 section is you can actually alter this to whatever pitch you want it to be at.
06:42 So you can see now I've got the part I wanted to go, I can go deeper with it or
06:46 higher. So some people tend to cut through the fingers. I prefer doing this.
06:51 It's an old Tony and Guy trick I used to do. Now you can see the shape instantly
06:57 starts to create itself and you can see that line starting to appear, which again
07:03 is very, very important. If you cannot get the angle particularly perfect, all you
07:07 do then is flick it over and then just pop your scissors on there and cut. Okay,
07:13 coming through to the other side now. As we come into this now, remember this line
07:21 here, this section denotes the angle I'm going to be cutting at. So again I'm
07:24 coming down at that angle that now tells me if it was a more of a horizontal
07:28 section it would be more of a horizontal section, but what I really need is the
07:32 angle. So again, let's just come in there, take that section out, that just gives us
07:37 the shape. So you can see I'm now really using this comb as the ruler to create
07:43 the shape. Again, something very, very different. We'll be exploring more bob
07:49 shapes later in this series of haircuts. When we explore, probably number five it
07:55 will be, when we do Claire Sproson's hair, that's going to be more of a one-length
08:00 bob with a few layers, which then you'll see there'll be a difference on there
08:03 with that. So again, getting back to what we're doing now, it's very visual. I tend
08:08 to keep the haircut as clean as I can while it's wet, in the wet relationship of
08:12 the haircut, but you can see that bend that's coming in there now, which is what
08:15 we're really after. Okay, moving up the head, we're now going into the upper
08:20 occipital bone, through to the mastoid process. Mastoid process is the bone
08:26 behind the ear. Okay, so now I'm going to just keep this section clean. I'll just come
08:31 around to this side, just move my dad out of the way. Thanks dad. So we'll now just get
08:37 these sections in. These are the last few sections on the back before we then go
08:41 into the sides, which then keeps it cleaner. Again, we've got to keep it so
08:45 it's really, really clean tonight on the cut, because when I come today... Hi!
08:51 That's it. Obviously it just keeps it a lot more cleaner, so when we come to do
08:56 the finish, we can really sort of see what's happening on here. Okay, so again,
09:01 replicating what we've just done. You can just sort of see that shape. Many years
09:07 ago I did a video of a scene cutting course as well, when I was working with some
09:12 previous employers. It's all parts that all cross over. The nice thing is, when
09:19 you get taught basics that are really, really good fundamentals, it's like
09:23 building foundations in a house, I think I said last week. You're laying down the
09:27 blue bricks, which is the foundation. That's what we're doing now. That's it.
09:32 Thank you. Over my shoulder. Bye there. Camera two, camera two. So you'll find that
09:38 through laying down the blue bricks, it makes it so then you're able to then
09:44 sort of create that base, which is really important, and then the orange bricks
09:48 will be the layers that will go over the top. Dad was getting a bit upset earlier
09:55 because he was thinking, "Oh no, what am I going to do, because we can't go live?"
09:57 Fortunately, well, we seem to get a window, so it's really good. If for any
10:03 reason the broadband goes down tonight, if it goes down tonight, what we'll do is
10:09 we will reset the camera on the phone, so bear with us. We'll reset it and then
10:15 what we'll do then is we'll come back on. So for those of you that are staying on
10:20 with us, that's what we'll do, because I know for the last two weeks we've had a
10:23 few technical problems, even more so tonight because it's just been one of
10:27 those nights. Probably it's the atmosphere, but still, we're here, which is good. So
10:33 finishing off with the line in the back, just keeping that nice and clean. Just
10:38 bring your camera around, Dad, so we can just see the back. That's it. Through my
10:42 eyes, that's it. You can just see the line appearing, so we've now got a bit of
10:45 geometrical shape coming in. So now I'm going to change over to the other side.
10:50 We can get that shape really strong. What I should do then afterwards is put the
10:55 layers in through this top part here, which will be like a graduated Bob, as I
10:59 said, taking those corners off, which most people would be thinking to
11:03 themselves, you know, that's quite daring to take a corner off. But for those of
11:07 you that have been taught by me in the past, you'll know the way I work, that
11:11 when you actually come in to take a corner off, it creates a stronger shape.
11:15 So that's again what it's all about. Okay, so we're now going to come through to
11:20 the sides. This time we work from the center point of the apex, which is this
11:26 part here on the top, then moving it through past the parietal ridge, which is
11:31 that bone just there, and then we end up here on the recession area, which is this
11:36 part just here. What you tend to find is that with the... What you tend to find is
11:42 that with this section in pattern it works a little bit better. Most people
11:47 use a horizontal section in the sides, that's fine, if that works for you. I tend to
11:52 find that using this technique, it really sort of makes the whole side glide better.
11:57 So you may want to try it. If you've never tried it, please try it, see how you get on
12:02 with it. Like people say, try it before you buy it. Okay, let's go to the sides. So now,
12:09 again, using the comb, you can use it as a measuring device, you can see, like a
12:15 ruler, you can see the shape coming in and it's that type of thing. As it moves,
12:21 just slightly at an angle, you can get your scissors in there and really, really get
12:26 that shape strong. Now remember, we're leaving it long at the front as we're
12:29 coming through. Some people are probably thinking they're large scissors, what
12:33 you're using tonight. They are in fact 8 1/2 inch blades that I'm using. The
12:39 idea being that really you can cut this in one go if you want to. So I could just
12:43 hold it and just go and it's gone. You can see the shape now coming through, it
12:47 creates a beautiful line. If you just come from the side view, Dad, you can just see
12:51 that shape coming through there nicely. So we're just working through. Now we're
12:54 going to go into the next part. Let's bring that down. There probably won't be anything
12:59 that reaches, but as I'm sure most people know, the cleaner you work, the better
13:03 the hair cut. So sometimes you might just have a few strands. It's better just to
13:08 take those strands off, then you know you've really gone through it as like a
13:13 checklist in your head. I tend to think of whilst I'm talking to guests, as with
13:18 all of you when you're working in the daytime, that you've got a checklist going
13:21 on in your head and just checking things off. The funny thing is a lot of clients
13:26 that come to the salon, guests, they actually said, "I didn't realise there was that
13:30 much that goes on in a haircut." Most people do not because as a hairdresser,
13:35 you have got it all going on in your head as you're busy talking, which in a
13:42 man's case, that's multitasking. Don't multitask that well.
13:48 Okay, so let's just go through here. Back on the stairs, my man, back on the stairs.
13:59 So we're just going to go through the sides now and just cut this through. So
14:04 we're now just bringing the line in and making that from short to long and that
14:10 again just creates the shape. You can see there's a bit of kink just on the end
14:15 here. Again, that just creates a really nice shape with it. And then of course
14:20 when it comes to the blow-dry, it's all going to go wavy later, so you'll see
14:24 that up here. Okay, so we've now got the bob shape, which is what we needed to
14:29 start with. Just check through the mirror. Okay, now we're going to change the
14:35 implement and go over to a razor. So again, it's just a

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