How To Curl Medium Length Hair
Transcript
00:00 Hi everyone, I'm Courtney Wright, I'm the social and digital media editor at American
00:05 Salon.
00:06 I'm here at the House of Bumble with their global artistic director, Laurent Philippon.
00:10 Did I say it right?
00:11 Bonjour!
00:12 You did, you said it perfectly.
00:14 Yes, and we, so you just finished with your Fashion Week shows and we are here to recreate
00:19 the Club Monaco look, which I have here with me.
00:23 Yes, the whole idea behind the Club Monaco was to make those kind of dream waves, like
00:29 the wave that everybody dreams to have.
00:34 And to achieve that, we started by spraying the hair with thickening spray from Bumble
00:39 and Bumble, dried it, and then we worked the hair with a curling iron, but using it in
00:45 a very particular way.
00:46 I'm going to show you exactly what you can get, what kind of texture you can get out
00:52 of that technique.
00:54 And we do have someone with Bumble there sitting with us to respond to your questions live,
00:59 so if you have anything, please feel free to ask.
01:03 So you know, what I like about this technique is that you get the quality that you get when
01:10 you work the hair with heated tools, but it doesn't show that, you know, it's not wrinkly,
01:17 it doesn't show that you worked the hair with the curling iron.
01:20 It looks completely natural.
01:22 So I do half a loop on one side, and then I do half a loop on the other side, and then
01:30 again another loop at the end.
01:33 So you get something, your hair doesn't go back up, you know, it stays the same length,
01:39 and you have that beautiful quality that you get when you work the hair with an iron.
01:46 And I think for salon, this is a very good technique because so many women would get
01:53 addicted to that.
01:55 And what was your inspiration for the show?
01:56 Because you worked directly with the designer to create these looks.
02:00 Yes, absolutely.
02:01 Well, she just wanted to have those kind of, you know, hip girl that looks super stylish,
02:12 but with a cool twist to it, you know.
02:17 So that's why I came up with those waves.
02:19 I thought it's just the right moment now.
02:23 We're not so much into flat ironing the hair or blow drying it too much.
02:30 So it felt right.
02:38 This was just, it just made everybody look good, you know.
02:44 And can we talk about you for a second, Laurent?
02:47 Yes.
02:48 You're such an iconic hairdresser.
02:50 You've been in the industry for how many years?
02:52 More than 35.
02:54 Wow!
02:55 35?
02:56 I started when I was 10.
02:58 When you were 10?
02:59 Yeah, I started in my father's barber salon.
03:02 Oh wow, so it's in your family.
03:04 Yes.
03:05 Absolutely, yes.
03:06 My dad had a barber shop and I actually, I didn't like it so much when I first worked
03:14 in his barber shop because I just didn't like doing men's hair.
03:20 So I started to do the hair of my friends in my village, of my girlfriends, and that's
03:26 when I got the virus of hairdressing.
03:30 Then I started to do a lot of contests.
03:33 I did the French championship and then I did the European championship and when I was 18
03:40 years old, I did the world championship.
03:44 Wow!
03:45 I was fourth at the world championship when I was 18.
03:51 Wow, that's so incredible.
03:53 Back in the days, you had to go to the army.
03:57 You know, you had to go to the army in France and so my army happened to be in Paris.
04:03 And so I left my village in the Alps and then I arrived in Paris at the end of the 80s.
04:13 I had one day off at my military service.
04:16 I had one day off during the week and so I was like, "Oh, I'm not going to do nothing.
04:22 I'm in Paris.
04:23 I don't know anybody.
04:24 Let me go and work."
04:26 So I was a fan of Alexandre de Paris, who's a legendary hairdresser.
04:34 So I just very naively went to his salon and didn't go through reception, just went right
04:43 to him.
04:44 Went straight to him.
04:45 Yes, went straight to him and asked him if I could work for him for free on my day off.
04:52 And he was like, "Okay, why not?
04:56 Let's try it."
04:57 So once my military service was finished, I worked with him.
05:02 I was his first assistant for about two and a half years.
05:06 And that's where I realized that you could do hair for fashion shows.
05:14 And so back in the days, Alexandre was doing all the shows like Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel,
05:21 Givenchy, Dior, all the big, big brands.
05:25 So I landed in this world a little bit by hazard, like that.
05:32 And then I loved.
05:35 What I loved really was the approach of hair that you have as a chef and session stylist
05:42 in fashion, because it's not exactly like a salon.
05:46 You don't need to think that the woman is going to have to redo her hair, restyle her
05:51 hair.
05:52 It's more about building the ideal of a woman.
05:57 And I really liked that perspective.
06:00 Because hair is so, so, so important at the shows.
06:03 It makes, I feel as if it makes or breaks the outfit for the show.
06:07 It all has to be so cohesive with what the designer has designed.
06:11 You're completely right.
06:12 And that is the challenge every season, to come up with something that feels fresh and
06:19 something that's right for this ideal of woman that I was talking about in the fashion shows.
06:32 It's propositions.
06:34 It's propositions of style, propositions of how to wear it in a new way.
06:42 And how long, so how long have you been involved in Fashion Week?
06:45 How long have you been doing shows?
06:48 Almost since I worked with Alexandre.
06:50 So that means I started in 1992.
06:53 Wow.
06:54 I know.
06:55 I'm old.
06:56 No, that's so exciting.
06:57 But at least I have experience.
06:58 Right.
06:59 And that's, you know.
07:00 What experience is important, and speaking of experience, for anyone in our audience
07:06 that's watching right now and they're looking at this, dreaming of being a part of Fashion
07:11 Week, what advice would you give them?
07:14 Well, first you have to be passionate.
07:16 You have to be passionate about hair because in this business, you can't repeat yourself
07:23 all the time.
07:24 You have to question yourself back all over again, on and on and on.
07:31 But there's no such thing as a school to become a session stylist.
07:37 So what you need to do is get into New York and come and meet some session hair stylists
07:45 who work here.
07:46 This is the only way.
07:47 Assisting is the only way you're going to get there.
07:50 I don't know any session stylist who became a session stylist without assisting.
07:55 So that's the...
07:56 Because it's all about learning and education.
07:58 You can never have too much, right?
08:00 Yeah, yeah.
08:01 But the thing is, it is a little bit of a closed world.
08:05 So you need to kind of have some kind of way in.
08:10 Right.
08:11 And so that's how it is.
08:14 You know, coming to New York, meeting young photographers that you're going to do test
08:20 shoots with and then developing your own style.
08:25 After the first, you need to assist.
08:30 And for those of you that are just joining us, I'm here at the House of Bumble with Laurent
08:34 Philippon.
08:35 He's their global artistic director and we are recreating a look from one of Bumble and
08:39 Bumble's previous fashion week shows that happened this week.
08:43 It was Club Monaco's.
08:44 Yes.
08:45 And do you want to go over the technique real quick for anyone that's joining?
08:48 Yes.
08:49 So what I'm doing, what I wanted to create for Club Monaco this season was that kind
08:54 of dreamy wave.
08:55 So some girls are very gifted and they have it naturally.
08:59 But when you do a show, you want something very coherent.
09:05 So we did that technique of working the hair with the curling iron.
09:11 So you get that kind of quality that you get when you work the hair with heated tools.
09:18 But you don't have that ring-litty hairdresser-y thing to it.
09:22 It looks like nothing was done and that the girl just has dreamy hair naturally.
09:29 And so that technique is such that you take strands and then you just do, I'll show you.
09:41 So here you just do half a loop on one side and half a loop on the other.
09:50 And as you see, I extend the piece quite a lot.
09:54 It's not a tight curl.
09:56 It's not even a curl.
09:57 It's really a wave.
09:58 And then the next one I'm going to do, I'm going to do exactly the same but exactly on
10:10 the opposite side.
10:11 And we have a question.
10:12 Do you use any product for this look?
10:18 Of course.
10:19 Oh yes.
10:20 For those who joined us now, I explained earlier that I prepped the hair with thickening spray.
10:27 Thickening spray is a very light hairspray that you can spray on dry hair, but I actually
10:33 like to spray it on damp hair.
10:35 If the hair is dry, if it's not coming out of a wash, I then use Prep, which is a primer
10:42 from Bumble and Bumble.
10:43 It's kind of a light liquid conditioner and then I put thickening over it, thickening
10:48 spray.
10:49 I then dry the hair completely and it's going to bring me a little bit of hold first.
10:55 And second of all, it brings me that kind of shine, that kind of really healthy looking
11:02 shine to the hair when you work it with heated tools.
11:06 It's a perfect preparation for heated tools.
11:10 And how long have you been with Bumble?
11:13 Very long.
11:14 22 years.
11:15 Wow, so it's like family to you.
11:18 It is.
11:19 That's what this community is, the hair styling community.
11:21 It's about family.
11:22 Absolutely.
11:23 And here at Bumble and Bumble, I really feel, you know, I'm somebody who's absolutely obsessed
11:30 with hair.
11:31 Hair is my obsession.
11:32 You can see it in my book, you know, I love anything that has to do with hair, any stories
11:39 that has to do with hair.
11:40 I love the history of hair.
11:42 And here at the house of Bumble in New York, it's really the Mecca of hair.
11:48 And thanks to Bumble and Bumble, I was always able over here to have all the freedom and
11:58 to be able to develop some products.
12:02 I mean, it's a fantastic adventure for me.
12:05 And you mentioned your book.
12:06 Can we talk about that?
12:08 Yes, yes, yes, yes.
12:09 I mean, that was one of the most beautiful adventures in my life.
12:15 I felt at first that no such book was around and that's why I was like, hey, but, you know,
12:23 hairdressers are very good to lay their eye on the history of hair.
12:31 Usually it's like historians, you know, and historians don't really know what hair is
12:36 like.
12:37 And so in this book, I talk a little bit about all the amazing hairdressers I was able to
12:45 assist.
12:47 And then I also have many artists that came as contributors to talk about hair.
12:54 And there is a philosopher also who speaks about the subject.
13:00 And then there is many historical references in the book as well.
13:08 You know, in many societies and in our society, hair is kind of an identity card where you
13:15 can read the personality of somebody in their hair, even though you don't especially think
13:23 about it when you do your hair.
13:24 But wearing short hair, wearing blonde hair, wearing tied up hair, all those have kind
13:31 of a symbolic, you know, and everybody reads it, but it's unconscious.
13:37 And I think it's really, I mean, that's what I wanted to talk about that as well in the
13:43 book, because I thought it was, it's part of our job completely.
13:47 It is a universal language.
13:50 And where can everyone find your book?
13:52 Oh, I guess the easiest is on Amazon, but all the good bookshop will help too.
13:59 And for those of you that are just joining us, what's your book called?
14:03 Hair Fashion and Fantasy.
14:05 So be sure to go to your local bookstore or go to Amazon.com to get that.
14:10 And where do you find inspiration just in your daily life?
14:14 I find inspiration in absolutely everything.
14:16 I think, you know, all hairdressers should be able to have a very open mind and be very
14:24 curious.
14:25 I find inspiration in architecture, in all the kind of arts.
14:31 I find inspiration in history.
14:35 And most of it, I am very blessed that I have a little garden in Paris, and I love to, I
14:42 actually find inspiration in my plants and my flowers.
14:47 It's true.
14:48 I think nature is the most incredible artist, and I do find the most amazing shapes.
14:54 So again, it's close to home.
14:57 Yes.
14:58 So we're almost finished here.
15:02 And for those of you again that are just joining, we're recreating a look from Bumble and Bumble's
15:06 show.
15:07 It was Club Monaco's show.
15:09 And for those of you that will be watching this on replay, just know that we may not
15:12 get to your questions as fast as we would if you were watching it live, because we are
15:16 no longer sitting here.
15:19 Okay, so now I'm done with the heated tools.
15:24 I'm going to shake it and open it, open a little bit your hair.
15:29 I'm going to brush it.
15:33 And what size iron were you using?
15:35 Well, you have a shorter hair, so I used, I guess, what is that?
15:42 One and a half?
15:43 Half an inch?
15:44 Yeah, half an inch.
15:45 Let's show it.
15:46 I think it would be half an inch.
15:50 At the show, some girls have much longer hair, so I used one inch.
15:55 So it's important to recognize your client's hair before when you're using tools.
16:04 Oh yes, definitely.
16:06 So now we're going to create a little bit of fullness on the roots on top.
16:13 So I'm using that fantastic product from Bumble and Bumble.
16:17 It's a texturizing hairspray called Dry Spun Finish.
16:21 I'm mainly putting that on the roots.
16:26 It dries very fast and it just, it brings, you know, it's a texturizing hairspray, so
16:35 it actually coats the hair with some texture.
16:39 It looks like there's almost like some kind of fiber that's coating the hair.
16:47 So you have instant fullness, instant volume, but no stiffness.
16:55 You can still run your finger through your hair.
16:58 It's not like a typical hairspray.
17:01 And I wish everyone was here with us at the house of Bumble because then they could smell
17:05 it because it smells really good.
17:07 Right.
17:08 Which is always a plus.
17:09 It's always a plus and we always watch and care about the smell of our products.
17:16 And so now that I've worked the roots, I want to add a little bit of quality on the ends.
17:27 So for that, I'm going to use actually what was the star product of my season.
17:32 It's our new Dry Oil Finishing Spray.
17:35 It also smells like heaven.
17:37 It has UV protection and it just, it's almost like it's giving oxygen to your hair.
17:45 It's amazing.
17:46 It's what my hair needs.
17:47 Yes, it gives that healthy look to the hair.
17:51 It has a satin finish and it's very, very, very lightweight.
17:58 You don't feel it, although it's a nourishing oil.
18:01 It's full of nourishing oil in there.
18:04 And you can use it every day on dry hair and you can refresh your style with it.
18:12 And it just brings airiness.
18:15 Don't you love the smell?
18:21 I do.
18:22 I wish everyone were here with us so they could smell it.
18:38 So you see, it feels like you woke up and you just let your hair dry, although you have
18:47 the most amazing quality of hair.
18:49 I wish this is what I looked like when I woke up in the morning.
18:55 You just take about 30 minutes.
18:57 Right.
18:58 And a hairdresser.
18:59 Right.
19:00 Can I come to you every morning?
19:01 We can meet here at the House of Bumble.
19:03 So for those of you that are just joining us, I'm Courtney Bright.
19:06 I'm the Social and Digital Media Editor at American Salon.
19:09 I'm here at the House of Bumble with their Global Artistic Director, Laurent Philippon.
19:13 Did I say it right again?
19:15 You did, Laurent Philippon.
19:16 Yes.
19:17 And here at American Salon, we love social.
19:20 So where can we find you online?
19:22 Oh, I have my Instagram under my name, Laurent Philippon, and we are very cooperative with
19:29 Bumble and Bumble Instagram account and Facebook.
19:33 And I think we have one last question before we sign off.
19:36 What was the first product called?
19:38 Oh, thickening spray.
19:40 So you just spray thickening spray on the roots or all over.
19:44 It depends where you want a little bit more crunchiness.
19:49 And then you just go on with the heat.
19:51 Perfect.
19:52 And for those of you that are just joining us, you can re-watch this video anytime as
19:56 it will live on our Facebook page.
19:58 You know where to find us on Facebook because we're all here.
20:00 You can find American Salon at American_Salon on Instagram, and you can visit our website
20:05 at anytime at AmericanSalon.com.
20:08 And thank you so much, Laurent, for joining me today.
20:10 You're very welcome.
20:11 I enjoyed it very much too.
20:13 Until next time, bye you guys.
20:15 Bye.
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