How to cut a precise long haircut
Transcript
00:00 Hey, what's up American Salon followers?
00:03 I am Brian Chase and I am here at IBS New York and I am thrilled to introduce you to
00:11 Hanzo artist, Hanzo artist?
00:12 Yes.
00:13 Okay, Hanzo artist Wayne Tuckle who's here to show us these awesome skills that he has
00:19 with shears.
00:20 He can give you guys haircut tips where you can get cuts done so fast and so precise.
00:26 And tell us about what you're doing today a little bit.
00:29 Yeah, what I'm going to do is I'm going to show you guys a haircutting technique.
00:32 It's actually four sections, four cuts is the base of my whole system.
00:36 But this is the base of my whole haircutting system.
00:39 And I'm going to show you guys the reason I do this is because the issues with a lot
00:43 of haircuts that we have is this is with everybody's haircut that all of us do is the way we cut
00:50 hair in general is you can only cut hair a few ways.
00:54 Is we pick hair up and we do layers here or we turn it to the side and cut it here.
00:59 Most of us pull it out to the side and cut layers this way.
01:02 You can over the right front, back, up and across but there's not many ways we can, other
01:07 ways we cut layers.
01:08 You know you get into convex and concave but everything is basically off the head this
01:13 way.
01:14 So what happens the hair falls and collapses and in anyone's haircut about two to three
01:19 fingers from the bottom becomes a slight line.
01:23 And so it becomes thin at the bottom.
01:25 So us as hairdressers what we've become accustomed to doing is ignoring it, blending it out with
01:30 thinning shears which makes the ends of the hair thin.
01:34 And when it makes the ends of the hair thin what we've done is we've curled it to give
01:37 it bounce.
01:38 Because anything in life in general that has a round bottom bounces as we know or anything.
01:44 He said that not me.
01:46 And if it has a flat bottom it doesn't move.
01:49 And I'll show you guys.
01:50 Nobody wants a flat bottom.
01:51 Nobody's ever joined a gym and said I want a flat bottom.
01:52 Let's just look at it from that standpoint.
01:53 But if we look, as we look at her hair it's very thick that comes here but when we get
02:02 to the bottom there's a small line here and it gets thin.
02:06 So I want to thicken that out.
02:07 And I'm going to show you guys a way to do that.
02:08 I'll let you take it away.
02:09 Perfect.
02:10 And show us what you got.
02:11 Perfect.
02:12 So what we're going to do is we're going to start with four sections and this is basically
02:18 the base of all the haircut, the entire haircut that we're going to do and it's very simple.
02:22 Because I feel like the best way to do this is simplicity.
02:25 Haircutting doesn't have to be done in a thousand sections because it's not rocket science.
02:30 It's simply hair cutting.
02:31 So if we look it's all done with head shape.
02:34 Because the issues that we're always having with hair cutting is when we're putting square
02:39 on round it never fits.
02:42 So what do we do as hairdressers?
02:43 Because we are as hairdressers the smartest people in the world.
02:45 If you don't believe a hairdresser is the smartest person in the world, ask us.
02:49 We'll tell you.
02:50 No issues.
02:51 But if we look at it from here, what we've done is we've taken a square haircut and put
02:55 it on a round shape and in order to make it fit we cut the corners off.
02:58 So when we cut the corners off what happens?
03:00 It becomes an octagon.
03:01 Octagon still is in a circle and it doesn't fit.
03:05 So look at this.
03:06 We're going to take four sections.
03:08 We do it right with the natural part because this is about the client's head shape.
03:14 So we take four sections.
03:16 You always do it and I stress this very, very hard right where the client parts the hair.
03:22 If they are a flip flopper, which that means not just when they're talking to a cute guy
03:26 and flips it to this side and flips it to this side, but it's a true flip flopper.
03:31 When they flip flop their hair back and forth then you part it in the middle.
03:34 Otherwise leave it where they part it naturally because it's their haircut.
03:38 Remember that.
03:39 So we take the hair, part it right where they part it and we part it right down the center
03:45 of the back and we part it on the, leave this side out.
03:51 So check this out.
03:52 One, two, three, four quadrants.
03:54 If we look at it right there, one, two, three, four.
03:59 Here we go.
04:00 So what I'm going to use is I'm using the Tori Hanzo, the six and a half inch Mamba.
04:06 And one thing you want to know about the Tori Hanzo, this is a very important thing, is
04:11 my shear selection.
04:14 Shiny and matte.
04:16 My matte shear is for my dry hair.
04:19 My shiny shear is for wet hair.
04:21 Pretty simple, huh?
04:23 I don't know what blend of steel it is, but I can tell you this, if it's matte it's for
04:26 dry, if it's shiny it's for wet.
04:30 So let's go into this.
04:31 I'm using my Mamba.
04:32 So here we go.
04:33 All you have to remember in doing this is take the entire section, to take this line
04:39 out, we're going to take this whole section, we're going to cross it across to the opposite
04:42 side, straight across because distance creates what?
04:47 Length.
04:49 So we take this over 90 degrees off the head and a 45 degree angle back.
04:55 We're not moving the hair, we're moving the hand.
04:58 So when this goes out at 90, we break our fingers back at 45 because if you take and
05:02 we bend the hair here, you can see where the hair exposes, which is always two to three
05:08 fingers from the bottom.
05:10 So check this out.
05:11 Two to three fingers is where the hair exposes here, that comes and drops over and it looks
05:17 at two to three fingers.
05:18 So we're going to come here and for cutting purposes of the viewing audience, I'm going
05:22 to cut from between my hand and the head, but normally I would cut outside, but I want
05:27 to show you guys this.
05:28 We're going to come here, I'm going to stop at two to three fingers, go back and check
05:33 this out.
05:34 We come here and we cut that off.
05:37 So check this out.
05:38 The harder the angle is here, the softer, smoother, longer and rounder this side is
05:48 going to be.
05:49 So if you take this, this comes across with the chin baby.
05:54 We're going to take this whole line and it's completely diffused out.
05:58 You see how round and bouncy that is?
06:02 So from there, we take this side down, very simple.
06:07 So the first piece of hair, a hairdresser, the first piece of hair that we cut in the
06:10 whole haircut is the guide.
06:12 Okay, so as hairdressers, what do we normally do?
06:15 We do this.
06:17 That's the guide for our whole haircut if that's the first piece we cut.
06:20 So what I like to do is cut the interior before the exterior because you have to match up
06:26 everything that you cut.
06:28 So if I cut the interior first, it's easier to match the exterior to interior than interior
06:33 to exterior.
06:35 So this is my guide for my whole haircut.
06:36 So now I lay this out, I pick the left side up, cross it to the right side because again,
06:42 distance creates length.
06:44 I lay my guide in, I come across and check this out.
06:47 When it comes across, I pull this out to 90 and now watch, I move my finger at 45 and
06:55 come straight across and check this out.
06:58 You want to get a shot, Bob?
06:59 Yeah.
07:00 Hey guys, I want to show you this shot from above.
07:02 We wanted you to see it from a whole different angle.
07:05 So we're going to take this whole side, it comes across at 90 and when I get to two to
07:11 three fingers, I stop and I pivot just my hand, I lay my shear in and you take that
07:20 off.
07:21 See that?
07:22 That's slick.
07:23 Very clean.
07:24 So when it falls in, it's going to fall over leaving all of her length, it drops in and
07:33 gives her a nice clean round bottom.
07:36 And you can see the both sides.
07:38 When it falls in, very slick and very clean.
07:42 Love that.
07:44 So let's show the back.
07:46 This is the key.
07:48 In the back, everything works in the front two quadrants.
07:52 That's where all of our work is.
07:54 So if you forget how your hand positioning is supposed to be, step back and come around
07:59 and look at it.
08:00 We're going to hold everything, it's cut like this.
08:03 So step away and hold your hand in a V section.
08:06 It's not an X, it's not anything, everything is cut in a V.
08:09 So everything is cut this way and this way.
08:13 That's how you hold your hand.
08:14 If it goes this way, you're going to cut them a mullet.
08:17 Nobody wants a mullet.
08:18 So it goes this way.
08:19 So everything is cut in a V. So you put your hand in the center of their head and it's
08:23 cut this way.
08:24 So again, everything is right to left, left to right.
08:27 So we take the back left section, we cross the whole section over.
08:34 I scoop my guide up, which is right here in the middle, lay it in, and check this out.
08:39 When this comes across, I get here.
08:42 Here, we're going to bring this up again.
08:45 And you'll see that where it's exposed, my guide is right there.
08:49 It's exposed, but again, it's exposed at two fingers out.
08:53 So everything again is two fingers out.
08:55 So I come out at 90, I kick my fingers back at 45, I lay my mamba in and I close and slide
09:04 it in.
09:05 I lightly pull back and look how clean that line is.
09:09 So when it falls here, so watch this.
09:10 Now you're going to see that I'm switching everything over and I'm going to turn it to
09:13 the camera so you guys can see and check this out.
09:16 When it falls over, the interior now is short and the exterior is long.
09:22 So this is where you're going to see that I'm giving her a nice round bottom on this
09:25 side and the other side has a flat bottom.
09:28 So check this out.
09:29 Look at the difference in each side as I comb it out.
09:33 Notice this is coming in here, this is falling and watch the difference in how the hair swings.
09:41 So I'm going to swing this side and it's going to move very clean.
09:44 This side is going to move like a fish out of water.
09:47 So look.
09:48 Oh yeah.
09:49 Look at that.
09:50 Now check this side out.
09:51 What?
09:52 See the difference?
09:53 Yeah.
09:54 And I'm not moving my hand any different.
09:55 I can move this as fast as you want, but look at the difference in how this side bounces
10:00 and how this one does.
10:03 This one, she has a nice round bottom.
10:05 This one's flat guys.
10:07 So check this out.
10:08 So we're going to make this one match because we can't have a lopsided.
10:11 So we take this here.
10:13 This one comes up and over.
10:15 Same thing.
10:16 Left to right, right to left.
10:18 And let's do the finger position one more time above.
10:21 So it comes here, right across, 90.
10:26 I kick this back at 45 using my Tori Hanzo Mamba 6-5 and we cut that out.
10:36 So easy.
10:37 Very simple.
10:42 So everything comes in.
10:43 So I'm going to do, I'm going to do one more thing with the right foot.
10:48 Two more things with this.
10:49 I want to add a little bit of height right through here.
10:52 Okay.
10:53 This is a really cool technique to give height.
10:58 Most people give height by point cutting and doing different things in here.
11:02 Okay.
11:03 I want to give her a little bit of height here just to, you know, everybody loves this,
11:05 through this.
11:06 So what I'm going to use is I'm going to go through and use my 14T.
11:14 So watch this.
11:15 I take two fingers and the reason I'm using my 14T is check out the teeth on this.
11:19 It's very curved.
11:21 So I take this here, take two fingers from the part, I pick this up, I bring this over
11:28 to the opposite side and I take my blending shears and roll them in my hand.
11:34 So I flip them upside down.
11:36 I take this and weave.
11:41 I close, I push in, open, I come half, push, open, a quarter and push in.
11:51 So what that's doing is giving a thousand little weight lines in the haircut to break
11:55 this up, give her softness for movement.
11:59 You want me to go over top of this?
12:01 Yeah.
12:02 This is really cool to see.
12:03 Notice on the opposite side because this is really sweet.
12:06 So check this out.
12:07 We take two fingers from the part, I come across, I take my blending shears out of my
12:12 hand, I roll them, I come across and look, I weave.
12:18 Just like I'm doing a highlight, I close and push, open, half, close and push, open, don't
12:25 pull out, a quarter, close and push.
12:29 So then when this breaks up it gives her a very light, airy thing, movements.
12:34 So when it has those movements, no hair pops out.
12:37 So check this out.
12:38 When I twist the hair around my finger, for those of you guys that think anything's going
12:41 to pop out, there's not going to be.
12:44 Not a bit.
12:46 Not at all.
12:47 You don't have to worry about hair flying and doing anything like that.
12:49 You don't have to worry about when the client comes back, what do you do?
12:52 You don't move salons, you continue to cut their hair, everything's going to fall right
12:55 into space.
12:56 Okay.
12:57 So I want to give her a little bit of fringe.
13:01 So I'm switching over to my dry side cutting shear.
13:04 See the curved blade on this?
13:07 This is our HH1.
13:10 I'm going to give a little bit of frame around her face.
13:13 So I'm taking a small triangle section right here.
13:16 This is called disruptive texture.
13:19 I'm taking a very small triangle section and I'm twisting her hair.
13:22 Right here in the front, just a little piece.
13:24 I'm laying this back flat.
13:26 Okay.
13:27 When I twist this, when you twist hair, the hair's wrapping around the other hair, getting
13:33 smaller and shorter as we go down.
13:36 So all I'm cutting out is the middle, but I'm breaking everything up to match this.
13:41 So I pull this back here.
13:43 Check this out.
13:44 I'll layer to the side so you guys can see it.
13:46 I'm pulling this back.
13:48 I open this dry side.
13:50 The reason it's like this is because it will not cut a straight line.
13:53 It pushes hair.
13:55 So I come through and I slightly open and close and I just back comb.
14:04 So when I back comb this, this breaks it up and because it's twisted, all it's doing
14:09 is cutting the middle portion out.
14:12 So now check this out and look how soft.
14:15 This breaks the ends up.
14:17 See that?
14:18 Now watch how this lays.
14:20 So when this falls in, look how perfect her fringe lays.
14:28 She has that little bit of height, but yet everything breaks in and falls in clean.
14:34 So let's do the back of her hair.
14:35 All right, let me have you stand up on me.
14:36 Okay.
14:37 So I'm going to turn her around.
14:42 We're going to do the back and then we're done with this haircut completely.
14:46 All right, so I turn the cape around because of the buttons and the issues with capes.
14:52 I have her hold it under her chest.
14:57 I'm going back to my HH1.
14:59 So as hairdressers, how do we cut the back of hair?
15:02 We do this.
15:03 We turn around, we comb their hair down like this, we take our shears and we cut it across
15:10 the bottom, right?
15:11 It makes no sense to me.
15:12 It never made sense to me simply because we're making their bodies square.
15:17 Women don't want square bodies nor do they have square bodies because we talked about
15:21 that at the first because round bounces and moves and square does not.
15:27 So comes into play the HH1, our dry slide cutter.
15:32 If you take your hand and you rub it down a woman's body from the top of their shoulder,
15:37 it goes in here and it drops, drops and drops to the center point of their back.
15:42 That is the focal point of every body, woman or male, because that's what makes their body
15:46 move.
15:47 So I want their hair to fit the same way.
15:49 So this won't cut a straight line, but you want your tool, you always want your hair
15:53 tool to work for you.
15:55 You don't want to have to work for it.
15:57 Come into play the HH1 from Katari Hanzo.
16:00 So I lay this in deep, okay, because it's not going to cut a straight line.
16:05 I close and I move down the hair and let the shear move down the body at the same pace
16:14 as I move my hand.
16:15 You see how this is shaping in?
16:17 So look, see that?
16:19 And it's shaping to fit her body perfect.
16:21 So everything that I'm doing is customized for her.
16:25 See how that does?
16:26 See that?
16:27 Falls in perfect.
16:28 Now look at this side.
16:29 I come in, I cut this in, and it's falling in to fit her body shape.
16:38 And it's not going to cut a straight line.
16:40 What it's doing is it's coming through and pushing the hair out to fit her.
16:45 Can you put my hand right over, right behind your back?
16:48 Yeah, they can hear you, but it's fine.
16:52 She said yes.
16:54 So you check that out.
16:55 You see how nice that falls?
16:57 It fits her perfectly.
16:58 Okay, so let's cut the bottom.
16:59 I switch back to my HH1, I mean my Mamba.
17:04 I take this back into complete ponytail.
17:07 I pull this down.
17:08 As soon as I have pulled it back in the back, tuck your chin, honey.
17:11 I have her tuck her chin.
17:13 I pull this back, one twist.
17:19 The reason I twist it, because now the bottom's the top, the top's the bottom.
17:22 I don't have to take my shears anymore like we used to and bevel them to create a beveled
17:25 end.
17:26 I pull them down to right where my curve is and I just cut this off.
17:32 So what happens when we twist hair?
17:36 When we twist hair, it's just like the same thing as when we twist fringe.
17:39 It gives an arch.
17:41 So I take it here, I cut it this way.
17:43 It gives a slight arch.
17:45 But again, square bottoms don't bounce.
17:47 Round bottoms do.
17:48 So check this out.
17:49 Boom.
17:50 Perfectly round.
17:51 That's awesome.
17:52 Perfect.
17:57 Turn around.
18:01 Check out the swing she's got.
18:04 I hope you guys enjoyed it.
18:08 That's fantastic.
18:09 Thank you, honey.
18:10 Thank you.
18:11 Wayne, thank you so much for joining in.
18:14 So Wayne, this is awesome.
18:17 But you've been doing this for a long time.
18:18 How long have you been in the hair industry?
18:21 23 years.
18:22 I feel like it's been longer, but it's been 23 great years.
18:25 So from 22 years, what was it, when did you know that this is what you wanted to do?
18:31 I was a child.
18:32 I mean, I really say I was a child.
18:34 This isn't just saying that.
18:35 I knew my grandmother was a hairdresser and I'm from a little small town in North Carolina.
18:42 I knew when my grandmother, I would go to my grandmother's salon, me and my brothers,
18:46 and I knew I could just cut, you know, people could just play a piano.
18:49 I was sitting in the back and cut mannequins and I knew that's what I wanted to do.
18:53 She would have a good time.
18:54 I would see her and her sister on a shop and it was just the best.
18:57 I would watch them and they had the best time.
18:59 I mean, they were cut with the best shears.
19:02 They were cutting perm bottles and they were cutting everything with the same shears.
19:04 They would cut newspaper wrappings and everything the same.
19:07 But regardless of what they, they had the best time.
19:10 And where, this was, you grew up where?
19:12 I grew up in a little town from called Eden, North Carolina.
19:15 Okay.
19:16 What's that?
19:17 What's that nearby?
19:18 Nothing.
19:19 It's near the border of Virginia and it's around nothing.
19:21 But it's a great, it's near Greensboro.
19:25 That's the biggest cook place nearest in Virginia.
19:27 But outside of that, it's nothing around.
19:28 But this is phenomenal, man.
19:30 So you grew up in nowhere in North Carolina.
19:33 And now you have excelled in the industry to where you're teamed up with Hanzo, which
19:37 is an outstanding, such a reputable name.
19:38 Oh, at this point, I mean, there's nothing hotter than Hanzo.
19:41 I mean, that's the fastest growing, there's nothing hotter than Hanzo.
19:44 And you're traveling all around doing shows and doing cuts.
19:49 You're educating, all sorts of stuff.
19:50 Absolutely.
19:51 So that's a huge come up.
19:52 Congratulations.
19:53 It's phenomenal, man.
19:54 I mean, I've had a, I can't thank, this industry's been good to me.
19:57 I love being, there's nothing I love more than being an air truck pilot.
20:00 Yeah, it is.
20:01 It's the greatest job.
20:02 I think I couldn't think of anything better.
20:03 That's one of the things that you were telling me earlier is that, like how important it
20:06 is to you and you just knew early on it's just like part of who you are.
20:09 100%.
20:10 And so I'm thinking about all of you guys who are here watching, thank you so much for
20:13 tuning in today because I know that not everybody can be here at MDS.
20:17 Absolutely.
20:18 And it's great for them to be able to meet you through Facebook Live and learn about
20:21 your background and experience and get some tips.
20:22 So that's one of the great things too is the tips that you provide, you were telling me,
20:27 are things that anybody can take away immediately.
20:30 Of course.
20:31 And I think the most important thing in this industry is to continue to learn, continue
20:35 to grow.
20:36 You're never too good to learn because even this afternoon, I've got a class today at
20:42 the IBS.
20:43 For those of you guys that aren't here, for those of you guys that are here, I've got
20:46 a class at 345 with my friend Roy J. White.
20:48 Can I have him come over?
20:51 You guys need to have him.
20:52 Yeah, you've got to have Roy come over.
20:53 Look at this.
20:54 This is one of my best friends, Roy J. White, one of the best.
20:56 The Hillbilly Barber, if you don't follow him, follow him on Instagram or Facebook.
20:59 I hope everyone can see me.
21:02 You might not get to see it with this jacket.
21:03 Do you have a plug for the jacket?
21:04 Yeah, yeah, this jacket came when we were out in Long Beach a couple weeks ago at the
21:05 air show.
21:06 So we were out in Melrose.
21:07 I had a nice custom made jacket for New York, so I hope everyone's enjoyed it.
21:08 But it's funny, we were talking about this and we work together a lot and it's funny
21:09 I've been doing hair 22 years and we're on stage together and I'll catch myself watching
21:22 him and learning new techniques.
21:24 So you're never too good, no matter how much I've taught, no matter who I've been with
21:28 or what I've ever done, I've worked with some of the greatest hairdressers in the world,
21:30 but like this afternoon I know I'm going to catch myself at 345 in our class watching
21:35 him do a technique and still then taking it home for myself if he does the same thing.
21:39 It's really funny because when you work with other people, we have at Hanzo some of the
21:42 greatest artists that you could ever have in your salons or anything, but I still learn
21:48 every single day.
21:49 Even when I go to beauty school, when I went to Jackie's beauty school, I learned from
21:52 these students because everybody's so hungry to give out information and everybody's so
21:56 scared that they want to keep it for themselves.
21:58 And I think that's the problem with the beauty industry.
22:00 The beauty industry is great on one hand, but on the other hand it can be so cutthroat
22:05 and it doesn't have to be.
22:06 We can all share everything and give things away because it's just, it's a huge tidbit.
22:10 Yeah, you know, I mean for somebody to come up from again, nowhere, nowhere in Carolina
22:14 up to the position that you're in now and have the experience that you have, it's education
22:18 every day, all day, as much as you can possibly fit it in because there's always something
22:22 to learn.
22:23 You always have to learn and you know what, nothing is yours.
22:25 You always can share it and grow it because I learned it when I first started.
22:29 The guy I first worked for really didn't, wouldn't show me anything because he was afraid
22:33 that somebody would be better than him.
22:34 But nobody's, you're always growing and learning.
22:36 At the end of the day, that's what the key is.
22:38 Well, where can they learn more about you?
22:42 From the Torrey Honzo website, my Facebook's Wayne Tuggle, my Instagram's Wayne Tuggle
22:47 hair and really from, we do classes all the time around the country with the Torrey Honzo.
22:52 If anybody wants to sit in our salon, contact us, Honzoedu, right Pete?
22:57 Honzoedu, Hillbilly Barber and I mean, that's what we do.
23:00 We travel, we do over 300 classes a month and we'd be more than happy to come into your
23:05 salon, give you guys classes because that's the key.
23:08 We do, like I said, 300 classes a month, that's unheard of, especially in 2018.
23:12 And Wayne, tell them a little bit about what's going to go on in our class today.
23:15 So we're going to be able to show them the same type of techniques with efficiency hair
23:19 cutting but on pixie hair cuts also.
23:22 So that's where you're going to see the difference between long hair, short hair.
23:25 So if you guys can make it to 345 classes over here in New York, make sure you make
23:29 it over.
23:30 That's 1E21.
23:31 1E21 and that's the thing, like the haircut that I just showed you, Rory J takes it and
23:36 puts it on a short haircut.
23:38 So it's not like everything has to be in the box.
23:41 Everything we do is out of the box and efficiency because the key, the end of the day is you
23:45 want to turn around and make more money in the salon but be efficient because nobody's
23:49 got four hours to just sit around in the salon.
23:51 I know I'm not that interesting to hang out with for four hours.
23:54 You might think I am but I'm not.
23:56 I promise you I'm not.
23:57 And the one thing we can't refund is the guest time.
24:00 That's very true.
24:01 Well you guys, thank you so much for being here today.
24:03 We really appreciate it.
24:04 We love American Salon.
24:05 Thank you guys so much.
24:06 If you guys have questions at home, send them in to us.
24:09 We're checking everything as you type it in.
24:11 We'll answer the questions with these guys here afterwards.
24:13 Continue sending it in.
24:14 This is going to be posted up on our Facebook page so you can watch it later too.
24:18 Tell your friends.
24:19 Again, thank you guys for being here.
24:20 We appreciate it.
24:21 Thank you guys so much.
24:22 - Appreciate it, thank you guys so much.
24:24 - See you, Dean.
24:25 - Bye guys.
24:26 - Bye bye.