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00:00 Hey, good morning Hairbrain Nation.
00:03 Julian here.
00:04 We're going to be doing our, well my last Hairbrained Live for the 2017 year into 2018.
00:13 What I want to work on today is going to be a short layered haircut with a disconnection
00:16 on top.
00:17 This is a haircut, my last two posts I think on Instagram, I've done similar ideas to this
00:25 one I've been working on, being a lot of positive response.
00:28 So what I wanted to do is go through today how I did that.
00:32 So I'm going to start out the layers in through the back area, just going to spin around here.
00:38 And start out by sectioning the back, straight down the middle, and then dividing the back
00:48 into four panels.
00:49 Now I'm not going to do it all at once, but I'm going to divide it into four panels as
00:53 I go.
00:55 So the first panel, what I'm looking at is the curvature of the head shape.
00:59 And what I want to take my section is right on the transition point.
01:03 So you know, it would be just a little bit above the occipital as it transitions and
01:07 starts curving inward to the crown.
01:11 Now the reason why I'm choosing that spot is because that's where the angle of the haircut
01:16 is going to transition to work with the head shape.
01:20 You know, and again I go on about that all the time, how important it is for the haircut
01:27 itself to fit the head shape and to work with the head shape.
01:32 And one of the easiest ways to start to have that happen is by taking your major panels
01:39 at transition points of the skull.
01:42 So now beneath that sectioning, I'm going to take my sections vertical and then just
01:51 cut a length that's going to lay down and then follow the angle of the head shape slightly
01:59 inward.
02:02 So working right down into the nape all the way to the bottom hairline.
02:10 You're getting some hellos.
02:13 Tara, Dragomir, Lindsey says, "Hey HB Family."
02:19 All right.
02:20 Well, it's good to have you guys watching.
02:23 Make sure you remember to share so we can just get as many people involved as possible.
02:29 You know, as you know, I love questions.
02:30 I'll answer as many questions as I possibly can.
02:35 You know, and again for anyone who just joined, we're going to be doing, I'm going to be doing
02:39 a shorter layered haircut with disconnection.
02:42 That's going to be a variation of my last two posts on Instagram, which I've been getting
02:47 a lot of positive response on.
02:49 You know, for me, I mean, I love cutting short hair.
02:52 As much as I tell you guys how much I love cutting long hair, I love cutting short hair
02:55 more.
02:56 Right.
02:57 So, you know, nice little, whatever you want to call it, a crop shape, a pixie shape, whatever
03:00 fad name you like to use.
03:03 But in a technical sense, it's going to be a layered haircut.
03:07 It's going to have, you know, a slight roundness to it.
03:13 Something that really, you know, fits the head shape nice and snug.
03:18 You know, and then finding the right length on the doll head, I think is really important.
03:22 You know, like it's over-directing to the previous.
03:24 Just yeah, just over-directing back to the previous.
03:26 Now, as the head starts to curve in a little bit, I'll over-direct slightly more.
03:32 You know, so we're always compensating for any transitions within the head shape.
03:40 You know, so again, as I pass that curvature, the over-direction just comes back a little
03:44 bit further, but still on a curve, still a rounded shape.
03:48 I'm not pulling it back square, which would leave a lot more length behind the ear.
03:53 Not wrong, just not what I'm doing.
03:56 Okay, so there's my first panel.
03:58 Now, as we know, you know, with the doll heads, we always get an extended length through the
04:03 bottom.
04:04 That's because the hairline is so low.
04:05 You know, so I'm going to bring that up, but it's not at the refinement stage yet.
04:09 You know, just to point that out.
04:11 I like to point it out early on to kind of eliminate any mullet jokes.
04:17 Yeah.
04:18 So, sectioning off the same panel that I did on the first side, onto the second.
04:28 I'm just going to change that.
04:29 I just hit it with my comb.
04:37 And then, you know, as you see, I like to section as I go.
04:41 One of the reasons is that I find it more efficient, and as long as I know where I'm
04:48 going with the haircut, you know, the pre-sectioning is in my head.
04:52 You know, like I said, I'm sectioning off in four panels in the back.
04:55 So, the first two are going to work with the curve of the head, right, just above the occipital.
05:00 And then the second two panels are going to be from the crown on both sides.
05:06 Now, the only real difference on this side is my hand position, okay.
05:11 And comfort and, you know, consistency are key with this.
05:18 I don't want to get my body into a position, you know, that it's very awkward and I'm turning
05:23 and contorting my body in an uncomfortable position.
05:26 So, if I think about how much my wrist can bend and how high my elbow should go, I want
05:33 to be here, right.
05:34 So, the elbow stays level with the shoulder and then the wrist stays just at a slight
05:40 diagonal.
05:41 This is a very comfortable position.
05:43 Once I start to try to turn my wrist too much, I'm putting tension on my ligaments and tendons
05:48 in the hand and in the wrist, which isn't good.
05:51 Once I start to lift my elbow up, I'm starting to stretch this area too much and throw my
05:56 center off balance.
05:58 So, what I want to do is I want to find, if I just take my hand and pull straight back
06:03 to the center of my chest, what's a comfortable position?
06:06 Now, from here, it can go higher or lower depending on where your client is, but that's
06:12 the position that I'm going to cut this in.
06:14 Now, it's pretty much right where it needs to be, but if it does need a little help,
06:21 what I can do to help it is just tilt the head a little bit.
06:24 And that eliminates me from twisting my wrist too much or lifting my elbow too much.
06:30 So, it doesn't hurt your client to tilt her ear to her shoulder just a little bit.
06:36 It's not a big deal.
06:37 And if it helps you put your body in a better position, well, that's great.
06:42 So now, you can see, combing into the center again and then following the same angle.
06:48 Sid said hi.
06:49 Hey, what's up, Sid?
06:50 How you doing?
06:51 Hope all is good.
06:52 Been loving your post.
06:53 And if you guys aren't familiar with my friend Sid, you can check him out on Instagram @sidsitongacademy.
07:05 See some great barbering work.
07:08 Got a really skilled team of people out there that he works with.
07:13 All right, so there's my cross check, just making sure that blends in.
07:20 You know, and that's one of the great things I think with Hairbrained is the building of
07:25 a community.
07:27 We have a group of hair stylists, educators that really work together rather than trying
07:36 to compete against one another that are like-minded in how education should be.
07:44 All right, so again, seeing the hand position, the body position in a very natural, comfortable
07:54 position, just kind of settling and relaxing right into it rather than trying to fight
08:00 to get my hand in the right position.
08:09 And then just working really gently in with the scissor, working palm to palm.
08:16 Now the over direction, I'm working the same as I did on the other side.
08:21 I'm just working back ever so slightly to the previous.
08:24 But now just as the head starts to curve inwards towards the ear, my over direction will be
08:30 just a little bit more.
08:33 Now here's a tricky part because I'm starting to get into a tight area.
08:37 You know, if your client does have a shorter neck or wider shoulders, it can tend to be
08:45 a little bit difficult to get your scissor.
08:46 Smaller scissors definitely make a difference.
08:48 If your scissors are too big, they're too hard to get into that area.
08:52 But definitely just tilt the head a little bit more so that my hand can get in front
08:57 of the shoulder at the right angle and then work into the guideline.
09:04 Right, so again, making sure that we, you know, maneuver the head to accommodate what
09:11 we're trying to do and not try to fight with the head shape or the body to fit your scissor
09:20 and comb in there and your hands.
09:27 Tiffany Allen is saying, "Hi, Julian.
09:28 Excited to see you again in a few weeks."
09:29 Awesome.
09:31 And we have a lot of things coming up in a few weeks, the start of a new year.
09:44 And I'll be at the ISSE show.
09:47 I believe that's what Tiffany's talking about.
09:52 And then also I have an event that I'm going to be working with Paul Mitchell, the school,
09:58 and I've been asked to be a guest at their school event, which is called Caper, which
10:04 is also here in Southern California, which is nice.
10:09 I'll be able to, you know, work from home a little bit.
10:12 I definitely like to go on the road, but, you know, sometimes nice to be able to work
10:17 from home.
10:18 Jonathan is asking, "What size of scissors do you typically use on a hair cut shape like
10:22 this?"
10:23 I like, Jonathan, I like to use between five and six.
10:27 These are the five, I think, these are 5.5.
10:32 So this is a nice medium.
10:34 But what you can notice about the style, these are made by BMAC, which were designed by Hairbrained.
10:40 You can get these on Hairbrained Pro Shop.
10:42 Great scissor.
10:43 They're super reasonably priced as well.
10:46 But it has a small profile.
10:50 It's not a very bulky scissor.
10:51 So even if I had a pair of sixes, it still has a slightly less bulky handle.
10:57 Very simple, maybe, you know, a little bit offset's cool.
11:00 I don't like too much going on.
11:02 You know, just a nice, straight, small blade.
11:05 I do use larger scissors.
11:07 I have a pair of seven-inch that I'll use.
11:10 And, you know, primarily I use those for one-length shapes, maybe scissor over cone.
11:16 But I have to say, most of the interior work, especially when you're dealing with a lot
11:20 of high detail, you know, I'm going to be working with somewhere between five and six-inch.
11:31 So just taking this section through.
11:33 Okay, so now what I'm looking at is where that top of the crown lies.
11:38 And just if I place my comb right where it lies flat.
11:43 And then I'm going to follow the curvature of the head through the side.
11:47 All right, so this is going to take me into my side panel.
11:52 So again, working with the curvature of the head shape.
11:56 And then for control, I'm just going to divide this, get the front out of the way for now.
12:02 Now my guideline comes from my panels underneath.
12:06 But now what I need to do is I'm going to take my sections and I want to use that guideline
12:11 right from underneath.
12:12 But what I'm going to do is I'm going to elevate up slightly.
12:15 What that elevation is going to do, it's going to help these top two panels fall lighter.
12:22 Whereas if my elevation came down, it's going to have a tendency to fall into a weight line.
12:29 So you can kind of see what this does.
12:31 It just slightly bevels off that edge through the top of your layering.
12:36 Right, so using my finger angle and the elevation.
12:40 Because with cutting with palm to palm, I can't angle my fingers into a curve.
12:44 If I was cutting over my knuckles, I could just really easily go from here to there.
12:48 Right, so when I'm cutting palm to palm, the way I do the same thing is to lift it just
12:53 that little bit.
12:54 You know, and obviously the more I lift, the more weight that's going to be removed.
13:02 Now the over direction needs to stay the same.
13:11 And keep that elevation up every section.
13:25 You know, and that's why again, it's so important to take your major sectioning or your major
13:30 panels at specific areas of the head that work with the head shape.
13:35 Because you can see the transitions of elevation, the transitions of finger angle, you know,
13:41 all really have to take place at where the head has a natural transition.
13:49 So this is my last section through this back panel.
13:54 And then again, you see keeping the elevation up towards the upper portion of that area.
14:07 And again, you can see just building a really light, weightless looking shape.
14:16 Now I'm going to carry this all the way through to the front.
14:22 So one difference here is my over direction will change again.
14:28 So I'm over directing less just into the previous.
14:32 As I get to the curve, I'm over directing more.
14:36 Now I build up enough length, I'm going to start over directing less again.
14:41 If you just over direct mathematically each section into the previous consistently, you're
14:49 basically following the head shape.
14:51 You're not doing anything.
14:52 You might as well just pull it straight out.
14:54 So we use the term into the previous, it's in towards the previous.
15:00 And the word to is very specific.
15:02 So that means two into one, three into two, four into three.
15:08 Whereas when you're thinking about it as you're over directing in towards the previous, you
15:13 can go a little bit more or a little bit less depending on where you are on the head.
15:17 That's how you build a shape that surrounds the head shape.
15:20 Again, if not, I might as well just take a number four and follow the head shape with
15:24 a pair of clippers or just cut everything straight out from the head.
15:29 So I'm trying to build a shape that surrounds the head shape, not necessarily follow the
15:33 head shape exactly.
15:34 I just want to pass on a compliment to you.
15:37 So clean.
15:38 This is from Glenn Allen Woods.
15:40 You make it look so simple.
15:41 Awesome.
15:42 A lot of practice, Glenn.
15:44 Thanks for the shout out and the compliment.
15:48 I'm also, I'm in a very serious mood today when it comes to haircutting.
15:52 I haven't told one joke yet, Randy.
15:57 But hey, you got to go with how you feel.
16:00 So again, you know, over direction now is a little bit less than what it was when I
16:06 was at the curve of the head.
16:14 Now again, working right into the outline.
16:16 You can see just keeping a really soft edge to the outline.
16:22 Now this is a very structured underneath.
16:26 You know, as I mentioned that it's going to be a short layered haircut with disconnection.
16:31 Now the disconnection is going to come through the top.
16:38 So we're not going to really experience that until I get to that point.
16:41 So if you're, if you're anticipating or if you're waiting to see, well, where's you going
16:45 to disconnect something?
16:46 It's going to be through the top panel.
16:48 A couple more compliments.
16:50 Gawad says, good job.
16:52 And Ari says you're so far the best educator.
16:55 Oh, thank you.
16:56 Thank you both guys.
16:57 Head's going to get big.
16:58 I know.
16:59 All these compliments.
17:00 I don't know what I'm going to do with it.
17:03 My head actually is already big.
17:06 I was buying a hat the other day.
17:07 It was an extra large.
17:08 That was my first bad joke.
17:09 All right.
17:15 So now I want to take the section the same way through.
17:22 Take that section through following the curve of the head.
17:24 It's going to clean up that little bit in the front.
17:29 And then again, take this top and get it out of the way.
17:39 Now work it on the other side.
17:41 I still want to keep the same system.
17:43 So I work inside the palm, right fingers up and then inside the palm fingers down.
17:50 So I want to work the same way with inside the palm fingers down.
17:54 Now obviously it's starting to look a little bit high, right?
17:57 So I'm lifting up.
17:58 I need to lower the chair or I either need to tilt the head.
18:04 So my fingers are still parallel to the head, but the head's tilted.
18:09 So I tilt with it, right?
18:11 And the same over direction.
18:12 So if you can lower the chair, it's probably a little bit easier.
18:16 But if your client's quite tall or the chair doesn't go down low enough, just tilt the
18:21 head slightly and that'll let you get into this area with the right elevation.
18:26 What you don't want to do is go from inside the palm to then all of a sudden switching
18:33 over the knuckles, right?
18:34 You're going to get a slightly different effect.
18:36 And remember, we're playing with small parameters, right?
18:39 So if it affects the haircut within a 16th of an inch, it makes a big difference.
18:44 So I was talking about when I'm working on this side, I elevate.
18:48 Now if I start to work this side, the elevation is a little bit trickier and I have a natural
18:52 curve to my finger, where on this side my fingers are much flatter, right?
18:57 So it's going to give a slightly different effect, guys.
19:01 You know, something that a lot of times isn't completely noticeable, but you know, as a
19:08 craftsman and as a hairdresser, we see things that the client might not be able to.
19:17 And you know, if I can see it and it's not right, you know, I don't judge it as a good
19:22 haircut.
19:23 You know, so I want to do everything I possibly can, you know, to make the haircut as good
19:27 as possible.
19:28 So, you know, you notice I did a little bit of both.
19:31 I tilted the head and I also lowered the stand a little bit so I can get my hand at the right
19:39 elevation in a comfortable position.
19:46 Where I'm standing is also important, standing right, you know, in front of where I'm over-directing
19:52 the work, right?
19:53 So I'm combing it back.
19:56 This is just a little loose.
19:58 Combing it back to where it's, you know, the cutting angle is right at the center of my
20:05 chest is going to be the most comfortable.
20:09 Cara, he will finish this haircut and dry it for you.
20:16 Oh yeah, yeah, we're going to do a full, a full look.
20:21 I normally like to keep my work to about, you know, 45 minutes, you know, max an hour.
20:30 You know, I try to keep it in a realistic time frame to what you guys do in a salon.
20:38 You know, when I'm doing a client, it's about the same.
20:41 I'm somewhere between 45 minutes an hour.
20:46 I try not to go, you know, too much quicker or take too much longer, you know?
20:54 So I think that's kind of a good time frame to work in, a realistic time frame where you
21:00 can do, you know, quality work.
21:03 I'm not saying, you know, you can't cut quicker.
21:07 I just find it can be difficult, you know, to get everything as perfect as you want,
21:13 booking on any, you know, 30 minutes maybe, but less.
21:20 Oh, nice.
21:21 Hey Matthew, how's it going?
21:24 Good to have you watching.
21:27 And Sid sent holiday wishes back when you said hi to him.
21:32 Oh, awesome.
21:33 Awesome.
21:34 Yeah, yeah, no worries.
21:36 Even though it's 75 degrees and sunny here in California, we are celebrating the holidays.
21:41 We were just, Randy and I were just talking about our friend Gerard out in New York suffering
21:49 with the 20 degree weather and Gordon in Chicago where it's zero degrees and I was saying no
21:59 thank you.
22:00 I'll stay here.
22:01 Matthew said it's raining in Zagreb.
22:07 Oof, and cold probably.
22:11 Charles says hello from San Diego.
22:13 Oh, nice.
22:14 Now Charles, he has it right.
22:16 He's in the good weather, but we can't all live in California.
22:23 All right.
22:26 So you see that working through now, trying to mimic the same over direction that I did
22:31 on the first side.
22:32 I still keep the head tilted just a little bit and now again my over direction is going
22:38 to slightly lessen as I get above or in front of the curve.
22:43 I forgot to say we also have in January a really exciting event.
22:51 Some of you may have seen it posted.
22:52 We have the Harebrained Teach-In, which is going to be the Saturday of the ISSE show.
23:01 You look on my Instagram guys.
23:02 If you don't have it, it's @julianperl and you'll see this amazing lineup that Harebrained
23:10 has put together for the Teach-In here in California.
23:14 I'm really looking forward to working with a lot of my old friends and then some people
23:21 that will be my first time getting to work with.
23:23 It's going to be great.
23:24 Julian, will you be heading to IBS New York?
23:29 Actually no.
23:30 I've got something else going on that same weekend.
23:37 But you know what?
23:38 It also depends.
23:39 Some of you guys may know, may not.
23:44 My wife is Tracy from Vidal Sassoon.
23:48 So if she is in New York, I may be there.
23:52 I always love to go as a spectator.
23:55 But I have to just wait and see what that schedule is.
23:57 But no, I won't be working there.
24:00 Jess Allen is asking, obviously this is a mannequin, but how wet is the hair?
24:08 Less than 50%.
24:09 And that's kind of normal with how I like to work.
24:13 Unless the hair won't allow me to section through it cleanly.
24:18 I find that if the hair is wet enough that I can section it, but dry enough so that when
24:23 it falls I can kind of get a sense, a better sense of where it's going to fall.
24:28 I like to work in that manner.
24:31 Longer hair may be a bit wetter just because it has a tendency to tangle.
24:36 All right, so the structure, and I would be doing the same if it was a person.
24:42 So the structure of the underneath is there.
24:45 Now what I want to do is I want to work through the top area.
24:48 Matthew is going to buy you a beer at the HVAs.
24:51 Awesome.
24:52 I'll pick you up when I am.
24:53 Or meet you at the open bar.
24:54 That's right, if you actually just go to the bar and stand in line and get it for me, I'll
25:01 be totally happy.
25:02 That's helpful, right?
25:03 Yeah.
25:04 All right, so the disconnection I've been kind of playing with, and like I said on the
25:08 last two posts on my Instagram, I did similar kind of ideas.
25:13 And it all came down to the natural growth pattern that the client had.
25:19 And we know hair grows into a swirl, right?
25:24 So what I look at is I just comb the hair forward and just look to see how the hair
25:29 swerves forward and then take my section of disconnection with that curve.
25:35 So even though this is a mannequin, you can kind of get the same sense.
25:38 The HairArt mannequins are great like that.
25:40 They don't just all go straight down.
25:43 I don't make mannequins, but what I do know is the results of it, somehow they get it.
25:48 It has a little bit of a curvature, which is cool because it is a more realistic situation.
25:53 So what I'm going to do is I'm going to take my section and I just work with the curve.
25:58 Now the thickness of this section is going to come down to how obvious I want the disconnection
26:03 to be.
26:04 I've been working on kind of slightly more delicate, not too heavy.
26:08 But if you do want it heavier or longer, by all means, mess around with it, guys.
26:12 You know, the fun thing about cutting hair, you can take an idea and you can mess around
26:18 with it and do it in so many different ways and see so many different results, which,
26:24 you know, sometimes you might go, "Oh, that didn't work out how I wanted."
26:27 Other times, you know, you get super excited and you really, you know, get turned on to
26:31 something.
26:32 I'm just going to tilt her down there for a second so you can see, you know, just a
26:37 little slight curve with the sectioning from the crown through to the front.
26:44 Now what I'm going to do is I'm going to cut the one side first.
26:46 I'm just going to twirl this and get it out of the way for now, guys.
26:49 Now because the section this way is quite small, what I've been doing is I've been taking
26:54 my sections now from front to back, using my guideline, my cross check from underneath
27:05 and lifting this up and using that to cut this top part of the haircut.
27:13 So I'm above the curve using the cross check, making sure that's clean.
27:20 Now I'm at a point where I'm going to flip my fingers over and as long as I consistently
27:24 do it from side to side, it's okay.
27:29 But still making sure I'm lifting the hair up so that it's light.
27:40 Lifting that up and then following that all the way through to the front.
27:53 So the shape comes up and now it's starting to round off.
28:02 So again, combing from the underneath and on top, making sure I lift up enough that
28:08 I'm doing a lighter shape and then following that curvature all the
28:19 way through to the front hairline.
28:24 So now what you're going to notice is I start to get into this section, so really being
28:28 careful that I don't cut into it.
28:37 This one piece here doesn't want to be cut.
28:57 There we go.
28:58 It's always funny, there's always that one piece of hair and now not quite straight up,
29:06 but just about straight up.
29:10 All right.
29:18 So when you look at it from front, you can see how the shape builds this roundness.
29:21 It has this curvature to it.
29:23 You know, ladies' hairdressing, we work on more curved shapes rather than really square
29:28 shapes, which we would do for a more masculine look.
29:32 But you want the head shape to just kind of come out a little and then round up.
29:37 So I'm going to take this top, just get it out of the way for now.
29:43 And then I'm going to work the same way on the other side.
29:55 Again using the bottom as my guideline, starting out, combing up from the underneath, and then
30:04 following that into the front hairline.
30:21 And then the second one, I'm working over my knuckles so I can get the elevation higher.
30:41 And then finally the last section, you know, through the top.
30:45 One thing I'd probably try to avoid, you know, if you are working this form of disconnection,
30:50 it should be slightly asymmetric.
30:52 It shouldn't be straight down the middle.
30:54 It can tend to be a little bit difficult with the suitability, I think, with that one.
31:14 Just making sure that's really clean.
31:17 All right, so now that top area, I'm just going to put a basic shape into that.
31:26 So like I said, you can always play around with the length here, you know, and keep as
31:30 much disconnection as you want with the front.
31:33 But I'm going to lift up, get that to a little bit of a closer length.
31:42 It might not be the final length, but I want to start to get control to it.
31:48 And it's just completely not blended at all, technically.
31:56 You know, you can play around with the angle, with the line.
32:00 Right now, as I'm working it, I'm working slightly flatter.
32:04 So when I say flat, my fingers are straighter.
32:09 But by all means, you can angle it out different ways.
32:14 I don't think I really need to angle it out too much.
32:16 I have enough length here.
32:18 I'm going to start to get something a little bit closer to blended, but not quite.
32:30 All right, now I'm just going to dry the hair a little bit.
32:36 And just, you know, working with my comb, just wrapping the hair, letting...you know,
32:47 hair this length, I don't want to really force it to do anything because it's not going to
32:52 want to.
32:53 It's going to fight.
32:54 Right?
32:55 So again, it's looking at the curvature of the head and working with the curvature to
33:03 get the hair to move really naturally, working with the wide teeth of my comb.
33:09 I don't want to alter the roots too much when I'm drying.
33:13 Normally, in the crown where the hair swirls a lot, I'll just let the air flow and let
33:18 it happen however it wants.
33:21 You know, all those little details, what I like about them is they're unique from person
33:27 to person.
33:28 Right?
33:29 So you could do a very similar haircut on a lot of people, and it's always going to
33:33 look a little different based on the texture, the growth pattern of the hair.
33:37 Lots of compliments coming in.
33:42 Oh, awesome.
33:44 Like I said, I mean, I always love doing a short, layered haircut.
33:57 You know, I find it one of those things that, you know, I mean, hairdressers, not that I
34:06 don't get excited.
34:07 You know, I never want to sound like I don't like long hair, because I do.
34:10 You know, but I find, you know, we just tend to get a little bit more excited when we get
34:16 to cut something short.
34:17 I wish we had a colorist coming.
34:18 Oh, God, yeah.
34:19 That's something we could work on.
34:20 Yeah, definitely.
34:21 You cut one, and the next day you have a colorist.
34:22 Yeah.
34:23 That would work.
34:24 I'm sure Lucy's not here tomorrow.
34:31 Everybody's getting their holiday colors.
34:40 All right, so that's about dry enough for now.
35:04 Now what I want to do is I want to start to do the refinements.
35:06 I haven't really done anything to the outline, so I'm going to start with the back, right?
35:12 And, you know, like I mentioned earlier, you know, normally with the doll heads, the hairlines
35:16 are quite low, so even though it's a clean layer, you know, it does look too long in
35:22 the back.
35:23 Even though it is blended through, I didn't, you know, I didn't extend out in any way.
35:27 I cut it more or less following the head shape, but again, with a low hairline, that's the
35:32 result that you're going to get.
35:43 So just bringing that hairline up, working with the tips of the scissors is going to
35:51 allow me to have a softer edge to it.
35:54 So basically what I'm doing is I'm taking the back of the scissor and just running it
35:58 on the skin, right, and then cutting the hair like this.
36:02 It's a good way to practice too, right?
36:05 As long as you don't lean too much in, you won't cut.
36:08 You know, you want to stay at about a 45 degree angle.
36:13 Okay, now the length through the front, what I want to do is I want to work off this extended
36:24 length here.
36:25 Now, you know, guys, I know this might be too short for some of you.
36:29 By all means, you know, you can keep it longer.
36:35 I like a little short fringe though.
36:40 And you'll see what that does to the over direction.
36:51 You know, it's kind of funny, like people are funny, like clients are funny, they see
36:54 you do something like this and then they're like, "I'd never let that person cut my
36:58 hair."
36:59 I was like, "I wouldn't do this to everybody."
37:05 You know, so, you know, cutting the fringe off like that is something, you know, that
37:09 is, you know, for people that like short fringes and there's quite a few of them out there.
37:14 You know, it's knowing suitability of the personality.
37:18 When I'm teaching, you know, I talk about your visual suitability, but, you know, I
37:24 also talk about the emotional suitability, which is just, if not more important.
37:29 There you go.
37:32 See, you coined it, Matthew.
37:41 You know, I just like these, you know, these boly kind of shapes right now.
37:46 You know, and I said, you know, if you want to see examples of similar, two similar ideas,
37:52 check out on my Instagram @julianperl, P-E-R-L.
37:58 You know, and you see two really, you know, beautiful looking girls with beautiful short
38:02 hair.
38:03 The one's quite short like this, the other one's a little bit longer.
38:06 So if somebody can't make it to those dates that you were talking about and did want to
38:11 train with you in some capacity, what are the options and how would they get in touch?
38:16 Well, the best way is to, you know, start out.
38:20 You can go onto the website and the best two ways is to say, yeah, goldpig.me.
38:28 There's the link in my bio on Instagram, but if you just put in goldpig.me or goldpigedu,
38:35 there's not many companies out there that are called Gold Pig Education.
38:38 I don't know why.
38:39 I thought I was going to have trouble getting that name.
38:42 But you know, go on there, it has my email.
38:48 Some people have been emailing me, which is great.
38:51 Other people have been messaging me on Instagram.
38:54 And you do everything from one-on-ones to complete training programs for salons to collectives
39:02 where you train a group of salons in a host salon.
39:05 Yeah.
39:06 You know, and all of the above.
39:08 So there's private seminars.
39:09 If there's anything else anybody can think of, you're happy to entertain.
39:13 Yeah, there's private seminars.
39:15 There's, you know, being a host salon, which is hosting me into a salon where, you know,
39:22 we also invite outside hairdressers to come into your salon.
39:25 A lot of salons that aren't big enough, that don't have enough people like that, because
39:30 then, you know, it makes it more beneficial.
39:34 But for those people that have a larger salon, you know.
39:37 Everybody rents a chair if you go in with their friends.
39:40 Exactly, exactly.
39:41 You know, as long as there's a space big enough.
39:43 There's also, you know, one-on-ones.
39:46 You know, so on the website, if you look, there's a couple dates.
39:50 We have two in Texas, in Austin and Houston.
39:54 The one's a two-day class.
39:56 That's in Houston.
39:57 And then the other one is a one-day class in Austin, Texas, which is a great city, guys.
40:01 If you haven't been to, come check it out.
40:03 Dylan must have said you always make your lunch break better.
40:08 Awesome.
40:09 It's hard to improve on a lunch break.
40:12 Well, yeah.
40:13 That's a good comment.
40:14 That whole five minutes that we get as hairdressers, you know.
40:18 And then I also have a date in Chicago, you know, which is going to be in, I believe,
40:25 April.
40:26 You know, so there's a couple cities, you know, that I'm going to be at.
40:30 But also, I'm always looking for, you know, salons that can host so that I can go into
40:37 the city and we can do something for the local hairdressers.
40:39 You know, and it just has to be a city that is, you know, big enough to accommodate.
40:45 You know, sometimes when it's a smaller area to get, you know, enough people to do it may
40:50 be tricky.
40:53 But I think with the hairdressing community, I mean, we tend to know, you know, it's like
40:58 how many hairdressers do you guys know?
41:00 Sometimes I feel like all I know is hairdressers.
41:02 You know, and it's like if anyone else joins the circle.
41:05 Nanette's speaking our language.
41:07 She's talking about peanut butter and jelly.
41:09 Oh, awesome.
41:10 That's my favorite.
41:11 I know.
41:12 That's my favorite lunch ever.
41:13 My stomach just started to growl when she said that.
41:14 Yeah, and people are always like, "You eat peanut butter and jelly?
41:17 What are you, like a little kid?"
41:18 I'm like, "Yeah."
41:19 I liked when you went over into the, I don't know where you were, in Eastern Europe or
41:24 something and you brought your own peanut butter and jelly.
41:26 Oh, yeah.
41:27 Well, it was funny because I have a good friend who never had peanut butter and jelly.
41:32 So then the time after, I brought peanut butter and jelly for her.
41:36 Oh, that's great.
41:38 Yeah, it's an American treat.
41:40 Actually, guys.
41:41 Yeah, Matthew, he said mac and cheese.
41:43 Yeah, it's an American delicacy.
41:45 Peanut butter and jelly, mac and cheese.
41:48 Funny.
41:49 See, this is why I only know hairdressers, because we have the best sense of humor.
41:54 It's so funny, my son, Charlie, yesterday we were just talking about, as funny as eight-year-olds
42:04 do, he's thinking about when he grows up.
42:08 He told Tracy and I that he wants to become a hairdresser.
42:12 So we were saying, well, trying to find out.
42:15 A few things you need to know.
42:16 Yeah, well, yeah.
42:17 A couple of things you need to know and asking him why.
42:19 He just was like, well, he sees mom and dad having so much fun at what we do.
42:26 And then we're also telling him, well, okay, well, to be a hairdresser, you have to really
42:31 like people.
42:32 You have to have a great sense of humor and all the qualifications and things like that,
42:38 which is so true.
42:39 But I think it's kind of nice when your child wants to emulate you.
42:46 And I'm like, no, become an architect.
42:48 I'm just kidding.
42:50 I'm like, just be happy, kid.
42:52 Be happy.
42:53 All right, so now this piece, I cut it down a little bit.
42:59 What I want to do is start to just get the direction moving a little bit to the side,
43:03 so you can play around with this.
43:08 I'm also going to just take some of the weight out from the front.
43:13 So from bringing the length up, you have a tendency of creating bulk.
43:20 So just by slicing into it and following the natural hairline.
43:25 It's also nice if with your color, you do one color on the perimeter and then a different
43:32 color behind it.
43:33 And then when you start slicing into it, you really start to expose the perimeter color.
43:38 So a little color idea for you guys that like to paint hair out there.
43:46 So you see that just kind of set that in a little bit.
43:54 Where before, like this side still looks quite bulky.
43:56 So just by just taking that in with the scissor, it just gets, I think, to flow a little bit
44:02 nicer.
44:03 This is bothering me here.
44:04 So what I need to do is I just need to connect this.
44:06 Yeah, I got to finish the thundercut.
44:10 It almost sounds like a bad word I'm saying.
44:16 Which is actually makes it more fun.
44:18 See now it just kind of took some of that weight away.
44:21 It seems like it's going to move more.
44:25 Yeah.
44:26 The hairline always restricts the hair from motion when it's cut short.
44:33 So that's kind of what was happening there.
44:34 It's just really restricting the movement of the hair.
44:37 Fernie says, "What's up, John?"
44:40 Hey Fern, how's it going, man?
44:42 I hope you're having a good holiday season.
44:45 I did the hand signal for you too.
44:54 Ah, nice.
44:56 Matthew says, "Now you're on the nickel every time you say 'Fernie.'"
45:02 Exactly.
45:03 Thundercut.
45:04 It's one of the benefits if you get a nickel every time.
45:06 Once Robert hears you say it, it's all over.
45:11 Yeah.
45:12 He'll be taking that and telling everyone how he had a dream.
45:18 He'll take it to new levels.
45:19 All right, give me one second guys while Randy does a 360 of that wonderful shape.
45:28 It's going to be a 720 if you don't hurry up.
45:35 There you go.
45:38 Just want to put a little pomade in there.
45:52 What I like is you can comb it either way.
46:10 On this side you see the disconnection dropping down a little bit more, where on the other
46:14 side it kind of worked into a little swirl there.
46:18 You can play around with it.
46:22 That's kind of cool guys.
46:38 This is based on a haircut that I did on my last two posts on Instagram, which have been
46:46 these two little crop shapes with a little disconnection through the top.
46:51 This was how I went about those.
46:53 Neither of them are exactly the same, but it's the structure that I used for it.
46:59 Definitely check it out.
47:01 This will be on the archives for Hairbrain, so you can come back and look at it.
47:06 Check me out guys on @julianperl.
47:09 That's P-E-R-L.
47:10 Then also goldpig.me.
47:14 That's the website for booking education.
47:17 Aside from that, I want to say Happy New Year to everybody in a few days.
47:22 We will see you next year.