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00:00 We are live again with Matt Sweeney.
00:02 What's up?
00:03 - All right guys, so this is our six figure haircut
00:06 coming back to us.
00:07 I'm going through and I'm using my Marcelle iron
00:10 to create some waves in her hair
00:11 and I just wanted to show that to you guys real quickly.
00:14 Or maybe not, about how we do these waves.
00:17 And so it looks like this.
00:19 Just gonna grab random sized sections.
00:21 So some will be bigger than others, some will be smaller.
00:25 - How big of a barrel is that?
00:26 - This is a one and a quarter.
00:28 I'm gonna take it in, I'm gonna give it a twist.
00:31 And then basically it's gonna look like this.
00:33 We're gonna drop the tip of the iron,
00:35 slide it through, same thing.
00:38 Drop the tip, give it a twist.
00:40 And depending upon how much of your ends
00:43 you wanna leave out, we're just gonna take this
00:45 and run it through just like a flat iron almost on the ends.
00:49 Just to give it a little bit of a finish
00:51 to help polish those ends,
00:53 while still maintaining kind of like a beachy effect.
00:57 And so we went through and we just did basically
00:59 like a rough dry on her,
01:00 so we didn't do anything spectacular.
01:02 One thing when you're creating like a beach wave look,
01:05 I like to do more of that kind of power dry, rough dry,
01:08 as opposed to a super smooth finish.
01:10 Because I think having some natural kind of texture
01:13 and a little bit of natural frizz to the hair
01:16 adds to the finished look.
01:18 So again, a quarter inch Marcel, drop the tip.
01:21 Twist again.
01:25 Drop the tip. - It's at least
01:26 amongst the most popular waves
01:27 you get requested for on your site.
01:28 - Oh yeah, and teaching your clients how to do these waves
01:32 changes their lives.
01:33 It gives them that like Pinterest, Instagram look
01:36 that they've been looking for for so long
01:37 that no one's been able to teach them how to do all the,
01:41 typically like you see your client doing waves
01:44 and they're gonna wrap it around some kind of wand
01:46 or something like that.
01:47 If you can teach them how to do these lazy linting waves,
01:50 you're gonna notice a huge success rate
01:54 and a gratefulness from your clientele as well.
01:57 So again, just giving it that little tip, dropping off.
02:00 We're gonna take and use a little bit of our dry shampoo.
02:07 When I finish these waves,
02:10 one thing that people don't typically tend to do
02:12 with their waves too as stylists,
02:14 'cause we're moving so fast, is let the waves cool.
02:17 So if you start in the front
02:19 and then work your way towards the back, so do both sides,
02:22 at least those front waves will cool.
02:23 So behind, when you're behind the chair,
02:26 when they look in the mirror,
02:27 what they see as a finished product
02:28 is what's in front of them, right?
02:29 Not what's behind them.
02:30 So start in the face.
02:31 I'm gonna have you lift up, okay?
02:33 Then I like to have them look up, tilt their head up.
02:36 - Why dry shampoo?
02:39 - I like the dry shampoo to be a little bit proactive.
02:41 And so the reality is,
02:43 is that if you come in with a dry shampoo
02:45 on the day of shampooing,
02:48 it will get less oily throughout time
02:50 and you're just gonna create a little bit of texture.
02:52 So I like to use the dry shampoo.
02:53 - So pretty. - All of them.
02:54 - What do you think about your haircut?
02:58 - It looks so good.
02:59 - It looks amazing.
03:00 - So good.
03:01 - Would you come back and get your haircut?
03:02 - Oh yeah.
03:03 - Yeah.
03:04 - It's still long.
03:04 - It's still long.
03:05 Nice little face frame, so you can see.
03:07 It's changed up a little bit.
03:08 Giving her a little bit of shape
03:09 and that's how we do our six figure long hair.
03:13 - Awesome.
03:13 So guys, you can go back and watch the six figure
03:15 long hair haircut on a previous Facebook Live.
03:17 We did like two hours ago, I think.
03:19 So go take a look.
03:21 But now we're moving on.
03:23 The lob, hi.
03:25 Are you ready?
03:26 - I am.
03:27 (laughing)
03:28 - All right, so we're gonna cut a lob.
03:29 A lob tends to be one of the most sought after
03:33 haircuts in the salon besides the long layer.
03:36 And there's a million and one ways to cut a lob
03:40 and I'm just gonna show you mine.
03:41 One thing that I like to do is I like to keep
03:43 the density of the hair.
03:44 A lot of people will over texturize, in my opinion,
03:47 and then they start to layer.
03:48 Because when people texturize,
03:50 they typically take from the crown first
03:52 and what you're actually doing is then
03:53 is starting to create layers.
03:54 So we wanna leave a very heavy shape
03:56 and create actual texture in her hair on the ends.
04:01 Right?
04:03 So it starts like this.
04:04 Same way that we started our six figure layered haircut,
04:09 we're gonna come in and set that perimeter,
04:12 like set that base.
04:13 And I think that anytime you're cutting hair,
04:16 like what people are looking for when they come in,
04:20 what clients are looking for,
04:21 is they're looking for consistency.
04:23 Right?
04:23 Consistency in what you do.
04:24 And so I think a lot of stylists tend to be
04:28 a little bit all over the place
04:29 when they're cutting hair, right?
04:30 So sometimes they'll use their hands,
04:32 sometimes they won't.
04:33 Sometimes they'll start on the top,
04:35 sometimes they'll start on the bottom.
04:36 Like there's no consistency.
04:38 And so I hear that a lot with these clients that come in
04:41 and they say to me, you know,
04:43 "Oh, the first time I went to so-and-so,
04:44 "the haircut was great.
04:45 "The second time it was good.
04:46 "The third time it started to change
04:48 "and the fourth time I didn't like it."
04:49 Right?
04:50 And so it's keeping that consistency behind the chair
04:52 is what's gonna help keep your client's health as well.
04:55 So we're gonna take our first section,
04:57 again using the wide tooth portion of our comb,
05:01 and basically set where we want that lob to sit.
05:05 So I'm thinking, is your head straight up?
05:07 There you go.
05:08 No, I think too, is you want that head to be straight up,
05:10 right?
05:11 Like how it lives, not angled forward.
05:13 'Cause then you're gonna start to create
05:15 a little bit of tension in the back of that neck,
05:18 which in turn is gonna give you graduation.
05:20 All right, so we're gonna set that length
05:23 right about there.
05:24 Sound good, love?
05:25 - Mm-hmm.
05:25 - All right.
05:26 Gonna go right underneath our comb.
05:27 Wide tooth portion.
05:31 And remove
05:34 that hair.
05:37 Now we've started to create that very strong perimeter,
05:43 which I think is super important.
05:44 That is some good hair on the ground.
05:45 - Yes, it is.
05:46 Yeah, girl.
05:47 - That's so satisfying. - That's some good hair.
05:49 Yup.
05:50 (laughing)
05:51 - Sorry.
05:51 - Uh-huh.
05:52 I'm proud of you.
05:53 - You're feeling brave, I love it.
05:55 - You have a boyfriend?
05:57 - I do, he's watching right now.
05:58 - He's watching right now?
05:59 - Awesome.
06:00 - He should be.
06:01 - He should know.
06:01 What about the surprise?
06:02 What about, it's like,
06:03 that's like seeing the wedding dress before the wedding.
06:05 (laughing)
06:07 All right, so we're using our wide tooth portion
06:08 of our comb.
06:09 Now remember, guys, whenever you're cutting perimeters,
06:12 least amount of sections equals least amount of errors.
06:14 So we're gonna try and get this back done.
06:17 In three sections.
06:19 'Cause we wanna keep this as heavy as possible.
06:21 Now, if we were to come in here
06:23 and start using our fingers, right,
06:25 we're gonna start to create graduation.
06:27 And there's multiple kinds of graduation,
06:30 but typically what you see people cut
06:32 in the modern era of hair cutting
06:34 is you see a lot of diagonal graduation
06:35 and a lot of vertical graduation.
06:37 This last section, though,
06:40 I wanna come in and I wanna do horizontal graduation.
06:43 Horizontal graduation is gonna leave
06:44 the most amount of weight.
06:46 Vertical graduation, if we come in like this,
06:47 what you see a lot is gonna take out the most amount of weight
06:50 and so when you're cutting the lob
06:52 and you're trying to create that heavy bottom texture,
06:54 or a heavy bottom with texture,
06:56 vertical graduation's gonna actually take away from that.
06:59 So this last section here, we come in.
07:02 We've got our guideline underneath from our perimeter.
07:08 And we're just gonna start to point cut that top section.
07:14 And that horizontal graduation then
07:16 is just gonna create a small amount of layer on the bottom,
07:19 or a small amount of graduation,
07:21 but still leaving it as dense as possible.
07:23 And the whole key here is to create a disheveled bottom.
07:29 A lot of times I think people wanna come in here
07:31 and then they're gonna, oh,
07:32 well let's use our thinning shear, right,
07:34 or we're gonna dry cut tons of this hair,
07:36 but when you dry cut,
07:38 typically you're creating a softer style of texture.
07:41 And the goal for the modern lob
07:45 is to have a little bit firmer texture,
07:47 so when you create those waves,
07:48 you really get like chunky pieces.
07:50 - Would you point cut any deeper in another situation?
07:54 - Totally going to, after we're done with this.
07:57 - Okay, cool.
07:58 - Yep.
07:59 So, but we're gonna do it when it's wet,
08:00 and we're gonna actually create peaks and valleys
08:02 like people do when they're doing balayage
08:04 or something like that, right?
08:05 Like you create that peak and valley,
08:07 and then you do the same thing when you're cutting it,
08:09 and you're gonna create peaks and valleys.
08:10 And then when you're cutting it,
08:12 and you're gonna create a very nice
08:14 textured perimeter for your bob.
08:18 All right, so I'm taking the hair from the front of the head
08:21 and I'm over-directing it to the back of the head.
08:22 - Okay.
08:23 - You might wanna get a photo of that.
08:25 There, so you can see we over-directed,
08:27 we're gonna cut it on her back.
08:29 What that's gonna do, right,
08:31 that over-direction is gonna make that front part longer.
08:35 But by cutting it off the back
08:38 and giving myself a guideline,
08:40 we're gonna continue cutting the sides of her hair
08:43 so that all of a sudden,
08:44 by the time we're actually done with this haircut,
08:45 it ends up being the reverse,
08:46 and it's shorter in the front, longer in the back,
08:48 because we've been trying to make the sides even
08:49 the whole time.
08:51 I mean, it's one of the most commonly made mistakes
08:53 when you're cutting any sort of A-line style haircut,
08:58 is that the back actually ends up being the longer part.
09:03 So now when we push this forward,
09:05 you can see it naturally has an A-line experience for us.
09:10 (clippers whirring)
09:13 - Switch me.
09:14 - And so yeah, so we do these sections,
09:19 or do these sides in two sections.
09:21 Comb it nicely over the shoulder.
09:28 We've got our guidelines from our perimeter in the back.
09:32 - What do you feel like is a true lab?
09:36 'Cause clients are coming,
09:37 you know, they're gonna come in and ask for it,
09:38 but they might not really know what they're asking for.
09:40 - Totally.
09:41 I think the true lab is, in my opinion,
09:44 is something that is a denser look, right?
09:47 It's not super layered,
09:48 and that texture really happens on the bottom,
09:52 because a bob, right?
09:54 Like a bob is a one-length haircut, right?
09:57 That is a bob, you know?
09:58 And so you need to create that one length,
10:01 but then create texture on that bob.
10:03 Oh!
10:05 (laughing)
10:06 Oh!
10:07 - It's short.
10:07 (laughing)
10:09 - But look at that.
10:10 If you look at this right here,
10:11 you can see how nicely that shows up for us in the back,
10:14 all by using the line in the back.
10:15 So we don't have to continually,
10:17 like, oh, a little bit off the left,
10:18 a little bit off the right, match, match, match.
10:20 No.
10:21 - Yeah, girl.
10:22 - Okay, so now we gotta go in,
10:23 and we gotta texturize our bob, right?
10:25 We're gonna do it when it's wet.
10:27 We're gonna take this hair.
10:28 We're actually gonna cut in peaks and valleys.
10:34 - Okay.
10:35 - So that looks more like something that would happen
10:37 when you were starting to balayage somebody, right?
10:39 But that's what then creates
10:41 this really nice textured perimeter to your lob haircut.
10:45 You know, when you're cutting hair,
10:48 there's really only about five, like,
10:51 structures that you can create, you know?
10:53 And when you take hair and you simplify it down into that,
10:56 what you're gonna notice is,
10:57 A, you're gonna notice more consistency,
10:59 like we talked about earlier, in your work,
11:01 but you're also gonna notice a little bit more confidence
11:04 when someone brings in a photo
11:06 or brings in an Instagram picture,
11:09 whatever the case may be, of someone's hair they know,
11:11 because you'll know exactly how to attack it
11:14 or how to create it.
11:15 So you can basically cut a long layer, a short layer,
11:19 a blunt bob, a graduated bob, or a disconnection.
11:25 Like, those are the base shapes that you can create
11:28 on a head of hair.
11:32 - What kind of hair texture does she have?
11:33 - So she's got medium, natural, natural wave,
11:38 well, like, white girl texture.
11:39 You know what I'm saying?
11:40 (laughing)
11:41 So she actually has great texture for this kind of haircut.
11:44 - If she was finer or thicker,
11:47 would you take those peaks and valleys
11:49 deeper into the hair, or would you, is this pretty much?
11:52 - So if she had more dense hair,
11:55 like, let's say she had, like, Latina or Asian-style cuticle
11:59 to her hair, definitely would go a little bit deeper, right?
12:02 Something up into this category.
12:04 If she had finer hair, fine hair is always difficult.
12:08 The one thing about fine hair is,
12:09 it naturally is texture, right?
12:13 So all you have to do is breathe on it,
12:15 and you've got little bits of textures on you.
12:17 So you don't want to over-texturize
12:20 someone who's got fine hair, right?
12:23 So you can see here how we've set it up,
12:25 and you can already see, like,
12:26 these little texture bits starting to come about, right?
12:29 So now one thing that I like to do with my lob
12:31 is around the face, I actually like to add
12:34 a little bit of a face frame.
12:35 I know it sounds crazy, because the goal is
12:37 to, like, keep all that length in front,
12:39 but I think it gives it a little bit of dimension
12:43 to the haircut, and so the way that works, then,
12:46 same way we did with our six-figure long layer,
12:51 just a slight open and close,
12:56 and you can see I'm really just sticking on
12:57 the front portion of that hair.
13:01 And so what that does is it just adds
13:02 a little bit of texture pieces in the front, right?
13:05 Little bit of differentiate,
13:06 but you still have all this length,
13:08 so that when we go and put some waves in her hair,
13:10 which you guys will see in the finished product,
13:12 it's gonna have some action happening
13:14 right around her face.
13:16 And a lot of people really can't handle
13:21 all that hair right in front of their face, you know?
13:24 They need a little bit of lightness there,
13:25 just simply for face shape.
13:30 So again, it's just like a slight open and close
13:32 of the shear.
13:34 I went to hair school in the '90s,
13:38 and I like to call the '90s, like,
13:39 the era of cocaine hairdressing, right?
13:41 So it's like they give you thinning shears
13:43 and pomade, and you go to town,
13:45 and then you put pomade in it at the end,
13:47 and you think that you created this great style.
13:49 And so I do think we see a lot of over-texturizing
13:52 happening behind the chair,
13:53 and through that over-texturizing,
13:55 the hair becomes less healthy,
13:57 which means that she's gonna have
13:59 to get her hair cut more frequently,
14:00 which means that she's not gonna be as happy with me.
14:03 And so it is that consistency behind the chair.
14:04 It's like how you texturize, texturizing with purpose,
14:07 and make sure that the texturizing happens
14:09 in a systematic format, just like your typical haircut.
14:12 So this is it for her wet portion.
14:15 I'm gonna dry her up.
14:16 - Take a look at the hair on the floor again.
14:19 - Looks like someone got a bikini wax.
14:20 (laughing)
14:22 Was it you?
14:24 - Okay, so we're gonna dry her,
14:26 and then we'll come back in a little bit
14:28 and show you guys the finished look.
14:29 Thanks for watching.
14:30 We'll see you soon.