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Transcript
00:00 Welcome to the Layers with Graduation and Align technique.
00:05 This hair shape concludes the layering series
00:08 and shows how to cut a layered shape from an outline and then graduate the edge.
00:13 This produces a look that's hugely commercial
00:16 and as such will prove to be a valuable technique to possess.
00:25 Prior to shampooing, make a thorough check of the head shape, hair growth and hairline patterns.
00:30 Pay particular attention to the temple areas
00:33 as the layering through this area will have to allow for any fineness present.
00:38 Now ensuring that the client is sitting straight with arms and legs uncrossed,
00:49 find the natural parting by combing the hair away from the face as shown
00:54 and pushing gently forward.
00:56 This will allow the hair to fall into its natural position.
01:00 Note that this shape will work best if it's cut from a centre parting.
01:04 Tilt the head slightly forward and divide the hair from the crown to the nape at the centre back.
01:13 Then, starting from the nape, take sections horizontally from the centre to behind the ears.
01:21 These sections should be combed down with the large end of the comb,
01:25 allowing the hair to fall naturally.
01:27 Now cut a line between the fingers using minimal tension.
01:34 The line should be cut to form a square shape.
01:37 The next section is taken parallel to the first
01:43 and cut in the same manner using the previously cut line as a guide.
01:48 Continue to take sections in this way up the back of the head to a point just above the ear,
01:54 drawing the hair down and cut on the same guideline.
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05:26 Now repeat the same sectioning and cutting techniques
05:31 for the second side.
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06:34 Check the line for symmetry.
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06:48 The sections pivot to become more vertical.
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09:15 The next section is parallel to the first
09:21 and extends from the center parting
09:23 to a point over the top of the ear.
09:25 This is then over-directed forward
09:27 onto the first section but lifted slightly.
09:30 By lifting this section slightly
09:32 the fringe will have a softer outline.
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10:09 Now continue with parallel sections.
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10:52 The diagonal, almost vertical angle of the sections
10:55 ensures that a soft outline is achieved.
10:58 The length at the sides is determined by the desired shape
11:01 suitable for the hair texture and the wearer.
11:04 This is achieved by the amount of over-direction.
11:08 The further forward the hair is over-directed
11:11 the longer both the external and internal lengths.
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11:23 The next section extends from the centre parting
11:27 diagonally down to incorporate
11:29 the first hairline section behind the ear.
11:32 The length and weight that is left in the outline
11:35 will be determined by the amount of over-direction
11:38 and the angle at which the line is cut.
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12:32 The sections can be slightly rounded
12:34 and the cutting line can also be rounded
12:36 depending on the texture and amount of internal weight required.
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13:34 Now the sections become slightly more vertical and start to pivot from the crown.
13:39 Lift each section out and over direct forward onto the previous section.
13:44 Continue to work across the centre back of the head into the second side.
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14:46 Now repeat this same process on the second side.
14:49 To produce an even shape, the degree of over direction and the angle at which the hair is cut must be controlled in a consistent manner.
14:57 Regularly check that the shape is symmetrical both technically and visually.
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25:24 From the nape towards the crown, continue taking diagonal sections,
25:29 lifting up and rounding off any corners. Remove any excess weight from the outline
25:34 and internal layers. This will give a graduated feel to the back sections.
25:39 Work up the back of the head to the crown. Whilst carrying out this procedure,
25:44 constantly check the haircut for external and internal symmetry and consistency in the buildup of weight.
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26:51 Now repeat the same process on the second side.
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27:51 Prepare the blow dry by damping the hair with a suitable finishing product and combing into place.
27:56 Now use a wrap drying technique to accentuate movement and shine.
28:01 Start by wrap drying the hair. Take the same sections as the cut and use tension to smooth the cuticle,
28:07 give the hair shine and give the hair natural root lift.
28:12 Continue to finish even on both sides.
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28:57 Now where necessary use various free hand pointing and slicing techniques to finish the shape.
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31:09 And here is the finished result, an extremely versatile technique
31:14 with the emphasis on shine, texture and movement.
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