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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Welcome to the Layers with Graduation and Align technique. This hair shape concludes
00:05 the layering series and shows how to cut a layered shape from an outline and then graduate
00:10 the edge. This produces a look that's hugely commercial and as such will prove to be a
00:16 valuable technique to possess.
00:18 Prior to shampooing, make a thorough check of the head shape, hair growth and hairline
00:23 patterns. Pay particular attention to the temple areas as the layering through this
00:28 area will have to allow for any fineness present.
00:31 Now ensuring that the client is sitting straight with arms and legs uncrossed, find the natural
00:36 parting by combing the hair away from the face as shown and pushing gently forward.
00:42 This will allow the hair to fall into its natural position. Note that this shape will
00:47 work best if it's cut from a center parting.
00:51 Tilt the head slightly forward and divide the hair from the crown to the nape at the
00:55 center back. Then, starting from the nape, take sections horizontally from the center
01:00 to behind the ears. These sections should be combed down with the large end of the comb,
01:05 allowing the hair to fall naturally.
01:08 Now cut a line between the fingers using minimal tension. The line should be cut to form a
01:13 square. The next section is taken parallel to the first and cut in the same manner using
01:18 the previously cut line as a guide.
01:21 Continue to take sections in this way up the back of the head to a point just above the
01:25 ear, drawing the hair down and cut on the same guideline.
01:41 Continue with this method of sectioning and cutting until the front hairline is reached.
01:46 Notice that the sections will become vertical. This allows the hair to be combed back over
01:50 the shoulders to be cut, which will ensure that the line will remain square into the
01:55 corners.
02:08 Now repeat the same sectioning and cutting techniques for the second side. Check the
02:21 line for symmetry.
02:25 Notice how the sections pivot to become more vertical.
02:42 Start the layering from the front hairline. The first section is taken diagonally from
02:47 the center parting down into the side area. This section is then over-directed forward.
02:53 The length of the first section is determined by the desired length of the fringe.
03:03 Now comb the side areas into this fringe length to continue the cutting line down into the
03:08 side area.
03:10 The next section is parallel to the first and extends from the center parting to a point
03:16 over the top of the ear. This is then over-directed forward onto the first section but lifted
03:22 slightly. By lifting this section slightly, the fringe will have a softer outline.
03:37 Now continue with parallel sections.
03:42 The diagonal, almost vertical angle of the sections ensures that a soft outline is achieved.
03:53 The length at the sides is determined by the desired shape, suitable for the hair texture
03:58 and the wearer. This is achieved by the amount of over-direction. The further forward the
04:03 hair is over-directed, the longer both the external and internal lengths.
04:15 The next section extends from the center parting diagonally down to incorporate the first hairline
04:20 section behind the ear. The length and weight that is left in the outline will be determined
04:26 by the amount of over-direction and the angle at which the line is cut.
04:40 The sections can be slightly rounded and the cutting line can also be rounded, depending
04:45 on the texture and amount of internal weight required.
04:58 Now the sections become slightly more vertical and start to pivot from the crown. Lift each
05:03 section out and over-direct forward onto the previous section. Continue to work across
05:09 the center back of the head into the second side.
05:23 Now repeat this same process on the second side. To produce an even shape, the degree
05:28 of over-direction and the angle at which the hair is cut must be controlled in a consistent
05:33 manner. Regularly check that the shape is symmetrical both technically and visually.
05:51 As with all Sassoon haircuts, when cutting the hair, it is important to keep the hair
06:21 in the right angle.
06:22 Sassoon cross-checking takes sections at right angles to the original cutting sections. Therefore
06:27 when the front is cross-checked, take sections that angle towards the face from the back
06:31 of the head. Continue back over the crown area into the nape and remove any excess roundness
06:37 present.
06:53 From the nape towards the crown, continue taking diagonal sections, lifting up and rounding
06:59 off any corners. Remove any excess weight from the outline and internal layers. This
07:04 will give a graduated feel to the back sections. Work up the back of the head to the crown.
07:11 Whilst carrying out this procedure, constantly check the haircut for external and internal
07:16 symmetry and consistency in the build-up of weight.
07:28 Now repeat this same process on the second side.
07:40 Prepare the blow-dry by damping the hair with a suitable finishing product and combing into
07:45 place. Now use a wrap-drying technique to accentuate movement and shine. Start by wrap-drying
07:51 the hair. Take the same sections as the cut and use tension to smooth the cuticle, give
07:57 the hair shine and give the hair natural root lift. Use both hands to make the finish even
08:04 on both sides.
08:12 Now where necessary, use various freehand pointing and slicing techniques to finish
08:17 the shape. And here is the finished result, an extremely versatile technique with the
08:37 emphasis on shine, texture and movement.
08:51 (upbeat music)