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Transcript
00:00 Welcome to the graduation technique. This shape will show how to build a contemporary
00:04 head shape whilst leaving slightly disconnected length through the top sections.
00:09 Check the head shape, hair growth and hairline patterns. Also at this stage make a decision
00:14 on the approximate hair length. Pay particular attention to the temple areas
00:19 as the layering through this area will have to allow for any fineness present.
00:24 Divide the hair from the furthest point forward at the temple hairline through to a point
00:28 midway between the occipital bone and crown. This section will vary according to head shape
00:34 and texture of hair. Take a diagonal section and combing slightly
00:38 forward cut a line that follows the shape of the head. At this point establish the correct
00:44 length for texture. Subsequent sections are combed slightly forward
00:48 and cut using the previous one as a guide. Consistency in tension, lifting, over direction
01:06 and section size is very important in ensuring that an even build up of graduation is developed
01:13 that will flow around this area of the head. Ensure that the sections taken are at the
01:33 correct angle for weight being developed. Work across the centre of the back of the
01:46 head. This ensures an easier blend when cutting the second side.
02:13 Now repeat the same sectioning and cutting procedure through the second side. This will
02:18 ensure a flowing shape. To eliminate any excess roundness through
02:44 the centre of the back and the crown area, use horizontal sections and work from the
02:48 top of the graduation into the crown area. Notice how a rounded feel is maintained through
02:54 the sides of each section. As the sections move across the top of the
03:08 head and progress towards the front hairline, over direct back to the crown sections.
03:17 Once the graduation has been established through the underneath, work with the top sections.
03:23 Take a vertical section and cut a line that works from short to long.
03:33 Sections are taken parallel and over directed slightly into the centre.
03:42 Over direct all the remaining sections up into the guideline.
03:56 Now repeat this procedure through the second side.
04:10 Now blend the graduation through the sides with the graduation through the top with vertical
04:15 sections. Over direct the sections back to a point just
04:24 above the ears. This will leave length through the front.
04:37 Repeat the same procedure on the second side.
04:52 Now refine the entire shape by blending the graduation vertically through the crown.
05:05 Refine the graduation through the sides. Now repeat the same procedure on the second
05:14 side. Now refine the outlines. Notice the gentle
05:28 treatment of this area and the fact that there are no harsh lines.
05:47 Finally remove any excess weight out of the fringe area.
05:57 Blow dry the hair with a wrap drying technique to start. This technique will smooth the cuticle
06:02 and start to control the texture of the hair. Once this control has been established, turn
06:08 the hair under to produce natural root lift. Longer lengths may need more finish.
06:21 Here is the finished result, a strikingly modern shape with a strong technique.

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