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00:00 Welcome to the square line technique. This hair shape epitomizes the line series and forms the foundation upon which all further
00:07 applications of this technique are based. In this instance a square line with a fringe is being executed.
00:13 Prior to shampooing a decision should be made on the finished hair length with the emphasis on suitability for the wearer.
00:21 Make a thorough assessment of the hair lines including the nape and the hair around the ears and for this shape pay particular attention to the
00:29 crown as this will have a bearing on the finished result.
00:32 After checking hairline growth in this area make a decision on the fringe length and shape.
00:38 Once again this will be determined by suitability.
00:41 Having shampooed and conditioned the hair,
00:44 determine the natural parting by combing the hair away from the face as shown and pushing gently forward.
00:49 This will allow the hair to fall into its natural position.
00:53 Notice how the hairline in front grows asymmetrically.
00:57 To achieve the correct balance this will have to be allowed for in the cut.
01:00 If the crown has strong or difficult growth patterns,
01:04 isolate this area in a triangle as shown. This will be dealt with at a later stage after the rest of the hair shape has been
01:12 completed.
01:13 Ensure now that the client is sitting upright with arms and legs uncrossed.
01:17 In this instance the crown doesn't pose a significant problem,
01:23 so continue by dividing the hair vertically at the center back. Now take a horizontal section.
01:29 In order to produce a square shape this section should be slightly inverted.
01:34 This will also compensate for the roundness of the neck and the inclination of the head.
01:39 Keep the head tilted forward through this part of the process to minimize the undulations of the neck.
01:45 Comb the hair in the direction in which it grows and cut a line that mirrors the angle of the section.
01:51 Extend the line into the corner taking care not to over direct the hair.
01:56 At this point both sides of the back can be cut together, a method that would have the advantage of achieving an even balance.
02:11 Alternatively one side can be worked through in isolation.
02:15 However keeping the hair consistently divided will help to achieve a more even balance.
02:20 Keeping the hair consistently damp, having an overview of the balance and an even inclination of the head would be factors that should be considered.
02:28 Secure the hair onto the skin with one or two fingers and cut a line parallel to the section.
02:34 Now check the balance of the line on either side.
02:39 Now take a section parallel to the first and comb the hair down onto the skin.
02:48 Whilst cutting the hair can be secured with either the back of the hand which will give maximum tension or one or two fingers which will give less tension.
02:56 With either method use fine sections and always follow the guideline.
03:01 Excess graduation can be removed by cutting the hair through the small teeth of the comb.
03:15 This will produce the least amount of tension.
03:17 In the case of a hairline with an extremely difficult growth pattern there should be no tension at all.
03:24 Now work through both sides until the occipital bone area is reached.
03:28 [Music]
03:48 At the occipital bone there are two options.
03:52 Either cut up to the crown prior to connecting with the sides or option two, the back and sides are cut together.
03:59 However this would require the head to be raised and lowered alternately which may result in inconsistencies in the line.
04:06 In this instance option one has been selected.
04:10 Work up to the crown now using less tension.
04:13 As the sections progress gradually bring the client's head into a slightly less tilted forward position.
04:19 [Music]
04:31 As the crown area is reached use the comb to cut the line as this method employs the least amount of tension.
04:38 Take care to divide the hair correctly around the ears.
04:47 [Music]
04:51 Now use the same sectioning and cutting procedure on the second side keeping an even dampness throughout the haircut and regularly checking the balance of the shape as it develops.
05:02 [Music]
05:15 Now to join the back with the sides.
05:17 With the head in a natural position using the hair behind the ear as a guide take a section that flows from the back to the front.
05:24 Ensure that the first section contains sufficient hair to give definition to the line.
05:29 Always check behind the ears for loose ends.
05:33 Compensation for the protrusion of the ear is essential for the success of the finished result.
05:38 Lightly pressing the hair above the ears will allow extra length to maintain the strength of the line.
05:45 Here the hair is being held gently in the comb with no tension.
05:48 To enable more control tilt the head away whilst the line is being cut.
05:53 Subsequent sections are now taken parallel and the same cutting method employed.
05:58 There are several ways to allow for the ears although tapping the hair above the ear is common to all techniques.
06:04 Holding the hair in the comb as shown here puts the least amount of tension on the hair.
06:10 Holding the hair in the comb and over directing back will give slightly more graduation
06:15 and holding the hair onto the skin with the fingers or the back of the hand will put the most tension on the hair.
06:21 [Music]
06:28 When there's sufficient hair to make the technique viable lifting the hair with the comb and scissors together will give more control.
06:36 Now continue to the original parting.
06:39 [Music]
06:52 Now make a thorough assessment of the shape so far.
06:55 [Music]
07:02 Now use the same sectioning and cutting procedure as for the first side.
07:07 [Music]
07:24 The shape of the fringe is determined by two factors, the overall haircut shape and suitability.
07:31 In this instance a square fringe has been chosen. Take a horizontal section, comb the hair down
07:37 and with minimal tension cut a line to the desired length and width required.
07:42 [Music]
07:59 As before more control can be obtained by holding the hair between the comb and scissor.
08:04 [Music]
08:13 There are various methods of sectioning off a fringe.
08:17 In most cases two vertical lines drawn up from the temple hairlines to the parting will define a triangle.
08:23 Tuck the hair around the ears whilst working.
08:27 [Music]
08:31 Use the same sectioning and cutting procedure as for the first side.
08:35 [Music]
08:45 The line is now checked against the skin using the back of the hand to secure the hair against the skin.
08:52 [Music]
08:58 Prepare the blow dry by damping the hair with a suitable finishing product and combing into place.
09:04 Now use a wrap drying technique that starts from and employs the same sections as the cut.
09:10 [Music]
09:18 Combing both hands will ensure that the hair has the same finish on both sides.
09:22 Re-establish the parting and ensure the hair is combed through evenly, checking the evenness of the blow dry, especially the hairlines.
09:30 Stand back and make a thorough assessment of the overall shape.
09:35 Redefine the outline including the fringe, paying special attention to the area below the ears.
09:43 [Music]
09:49 Here is the finished result, a timeless classic that epitomises healthy, shiny hair.
09:55 [Music]

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