HOW-TO Long Layered Dry haircut
Transcript
00:00 (laughter)
00:02 Are we live?
00:04 Are we live?
00:05 Hey, BTC Land.
00:07 Hi, guys, it's Gary.
00:08 So glad to see you guys on the Facebook Land.
00:11 We are so excited we have a Facebook Live
00:14 with a couple of really good friends.
00:16 Aren't they beautiful, first of all?
00:18 - Thank you.
00:18 - So, I know, guess what?
00:20 We're gonna do a pretty expensive haircut.
00:22 It's gonna be beautiful.
00:23 So, first of all, we have Michelle O'Connor
00:24 and D-Lick of Adore Taylor,
00:27 and they are the co-creative directors
00:29 of Aslan Fighting Style.
00:30 So, we're so excited to have you guys here.
00:32 - We are so happy to be here.
00:33 - So excited.
00:34 - Your face is amazing.
00:35 - Oh, thank you.
00:36 Are you gonna jump in one of the bean bags later?
00:39 - After I saw you do it, I'm like, I'm up next.
00:41 - Or the scooter.
00:41 We have a scooter here, too.
00:42 - And a dog.
00:43 - And a dog.
00:44 Like, it's just, it's full on here.
00:45 - Whatever you guys think it's like here,
00:47 it's exactly like that.
00:48 - So, these guys are like two amazing hairdressers
00:52 and amazing leaders in this industry.
00:54 So, thank you for that.
00:55 Because I know for all the women out there
00:57 I was looking for incredible inspiration and guidance,
01:00 and you guys are amazing.
01:01 So, congratulations.
01:02 Love all of your success,
01:03 but definitely love the leadership roles
01:05 that you play in our market.
01:07 So, oh, thanks.
01:09 You're making my back sore.
01:10 (laughing)
01:11 I'm like, oh, it was on my back all along.
01:14 You guys are crazy.
01:15 - That's okay.
01:16 - So, yeah, so we're really excited,
01:17 and we're so excited to have everybody here
01:18 because one of the things that we love
01:20 is to provide free education to all of you guys out there.
01:23 And the key thing that we really focus on
01:26 is actually giving you guys the kind of education
01:27 that we know you're looking for.
01:29 So, every time somebody comes in,
01:31 we're asking you guys, what is it,
01:33 we're telling you about trends
01:34 that we think are gonna really be strong
01:35 for holiday or for cutting,
01:37 and then we want you guys to take it away.
01:39 So, I know, first we're gonna be doing
01:41 a Facebook Live with you for a haircut.
01:43 Tell us about that really quickly, and then.
01:45 - So, it's actually one of my favorite haircuts.
01:46 I call it the haircut that every girl with long hair wants.
01:49 It's kind of a joke, Michelle and I talk about it.
01:51 You know, the client that comes in wants three layers,
01:53 and there's no such thing.
01:55 I wanna change, but don't cut my hair.
01:57 Don't cut my length.
01:58 I think girls that have long hair,
01:59 women that have long hair,
02:00 they always wanna keep it long.
02:01 So, this will allow you to keep your hair long.
02:03 It's good for any type of texture or density.
02:06 And I'll show you how to create it
02:08 and customize it for every client.
02:11 The reason I picked this is because it is spectacular,
02:14 and it's actually a money maker in the chair,
02:15 behind the chair.
02:16 So, that's a--
02:17 - Let's not forget, it's a dry haircut.
02:19 - It's a dry haircut from beginning to end.
02:21 - That's also exciting, too.
02:22 It's cool to see the haircut come to life
02:24 as I'm working through it.
02:25 And then, the really great thing is,
02:27 she's done, once I'm done cutting it,
02:29 the styling is pretty much complete.
02:30 So, yeah.
02:31 - And then, we're gonna, and you're gonna be doing,
02:33 we're gonna end that Facebook Live with this great haircut,
02:35 and then we're gonna go--
02:36 - And we're gonna scoot over to me,
02:37 and then I'm gonna show you guys the modern chignon.
02:40 And I uploaded a photo,
02:42 and this photo was so popular online
02:44 that I wanted to share and recreate it for you.
02:46 And it's perfect for the holidays,
02:49 and I just think it's a fun way
02:50 to modernize a traditional up style.
02:53 - Cool.
02:54 So, you guys ready to take it away?
02:55 - We're ready.
02:56 - We're ready.
02:57 - Thanks for being here.
02:58 - Bye.
02:58 - Thanks for being here on Insta Show.
02:59 - Very cool.
03:00 So--
03:01 - I'm watching.
03:02 - You're like that, you're like that
03:03 when your dresser next to me is hovering over my shoulder.
03:05 - Don't mess up.
03:06 - Perfect.
03:07 Well, I wanna talk about the ideal client.
03:09 It's really anybody.
03:10 Anybody that has long hair.
03:12 Erin, my model here, she has almost one length hair.
03:15 She has a couple layers right at the very, very bottom.
03:18 So, what I wanna do is I wanna create some movement.
03:20 I wanna create invisible layers.
03:21 I think that's really important.
03:23 So, you don't see where the last layer starts
03:25 and the next one begins.
03:27 It's all about the movement.
03:28 It's about giving her options of versatility
03:30 when she's styling it,
03:31 whether she wants to blow it out with a round brush,
03:33 whether she wants to flat iron it,
03:35 or she wants to curl it.
03:36 So, and it's great on naturally curly hair, too.
03:38 So, what we've done is we started just as is.
03:41 She came in, her hair was half blow dried,
03:44 half kind of air dried on its own.
03:46 Tends to be a little flatter,
03:48 and that's just because of the weight.
03:50 But she loves her hair long.
03:51 That was her one request, and I love it long, too.
03:55 So, what I'm gonna do is I'm gonna create
03:57 a lot of layers and a lot of movement through the crown.
03:59 So, if she does style it differently,
04:01 she has the style support to do so.
04:03 - I just wanna add that one of the things
04:06 I really love about this haircut is you mentioned
04:08 you talked about seamless layers.
04:10 - Yes.
04:10 - And they really are only pronounced
04:12 when you wave the hair or curl the hair.
04:15 If she's wearing her hair proper straight,
04:17 they blend in and you still don't see
04:19 that they're really there unless you shake the hair out
04:22 and then they're more pronounced.
04:24 But I love that you talked about seamless layers.
04:27 - It's about seamless, it's about invisible.
04:29 And the other thing, too, is we are crazy about color.
04:32 We're doing color melts, we're doing balayage,
04:34 we are doing ombres.
04:35 So, this is taking those color techniques
04:38 and really bringing them to life.
04:40 And maybe sometimes erasing some of the lines
04:43 or softening it up or breaking it up
04:44 or really kind of transforming it
04:46 into something completely different.
04:47 So, I'm gonna jump in.
04:49 I know you guys are excited to get started.
04:51 And I wanna talk about where I start.
04:53 If you guys are not dry hair cutters,
04:56 normally we do a dry haircut.
04:58 Very often we shampoo, we cut the hair,
05:01 we dry it and then we go back.
05:02 So, we're doing the reverse.
05:03 We are actually gonna start dry.
05:06 And I just went over it very lightly
05:08 with a flat iron just to smooth it.
05:10 It's really dry here in Chicago,
05:11 so she has a little bit of static.
05:13 I used just a touch of a texturizing spray
05:16 just to give me a bit of grip.
05:18 And I'm gonna reach over and grab my scissors and my comb.
05:21 Thanks.
05:24 Thank you.
05:26 And I'm gonna create the first section.
05:32 And my first section,
05:34 I'm actually just gonna section her from the crown
05:37 to behind the ear.
05:40 Let me get this out of the way here.
05:43 And from the crown to just behind the ear.
05:47 And behind the ear means where the ear connects to the head.
05:50 So, I'm gonna start by creating my guide.
05:54 And again, you can do this on any type of texture.
05:58 You can do it on someone that has naturally wavy hair.
06:01 And what I like to do first is blow it smooth
06:04 so I can get a better idea.
06:06 And something I always say is,
06:08 wet hair lies and dry hair tells the truth.
06:10 So, there's no lies in this haircut.
06:12 It's really where you put the layers is where they sit.
06:15 And the whole point is to make it invisible
06:17 so you're not seeing that layering that we joked about,
06:21 the three layers.
06:22 Yeah, the three layers.
06:24 So, let's start at the crown.
06:27 - All I want for Christmas are three layers.
06:29 - Three layers.
06:30 So, I'm gonna start right at the crown.
06:34 And I'm gonna take a section that is about,
06:37 I would say, two inches in width
06:40 and about an inch and a half in depth.
06:43 And this is gonna be my guide for the entire haircut.
06:48 So, determine where you want those layers to be.
06:50 And also, keep in mind the color placement.
06:53 I mean, how I know in the past,
06:55 I've done a color and then I go in and layer it afterwards
06:58 and I take off the color out.
06:59 So, I can see where her great color placement is.
07:02 I also wanna make sure that she has enough layers
07:06 to create some movement.
07:07 This is her shortest layer right now.
07:08 You can see how far down.
07:10 It probably starts about two inches.
07:12 So, I'm gonna take this, hold it straight up.
07:15 - I'm gonna sit behind you a sec and go this way.
07:18 Get you guys the best view.
07:20 - So, on here, this length, I'd probably like to leave it,
07:24 am I about eight inches, maybe?
07:26 Eight inches.
07:27 So, I'm gonna go in and remove some of this length
07:31 and I'm just gonna hold it up,
07:34 bring my hand down and point cut.
07:36 And then we take the same section, don't release it.
07:42 My finger's positioned horizontally.
07:45 I'm gonna bend.
07:47 Now, I'm gonna go in the interior and slice up and out.
07:52 Now, based on how thick the hair is,
07:55 will tell you how much you have to go in.
07:59 And you can see one of my favorite things is,
08:01 you can see how it starts to open up.
08:03 And through there, and it creates a beautiful,
08:06 diffuse finish on the ends.
08:07 And I want you guys to watch.
08:09 Now, we cut this, when I release this,
08:11 I want you to see how just that first section
08:14 with everything that we cut off,
08:16 I want you to see how it literally just blends in.
08:19 And you actually can't even see,
08:22 you can't see where it starts.
08:26 - Delay, what makes you determine that eight inches
08:30 is your go-to sort of length for your starting point
08:35 for creating this?
08:35 What makes you--
08:36 - Actually, the length, the overall length.
08:39 So, it can be four inches, it can be five inches.
08:41 It's really whatever you want.
08:43 I want this to swing just below her chin.
08:45 So, somewhere between the chin and her shoulders.
08:47 So, you can definitely go shorter.
08:49 That's, this haircut, it's a technique.
08:52 So, it's not a specific haircut.
08:54 You can use it on any length.
08:55 So, again, just to create the airiness and the openness,
08:59 you can definitely do it four inches.
09:00 If she said, "I really want this crazy, shaggy,
09:03 long movement," I would definitely go shorter.
09:05 If she had a fringe, I would definitely go shorter.
09:07 Maybe this would be about four inches.
09:09 So, always keeping in mind the length.
09:11 So, my next section, I'm gonna take a vertical section
09:17 right from the crown all the way to the nape.
09:20 And I'm always gonna stand behind the section.
09:24 Now, we're keeping her length where it is.
09:27 So, I'm gonna hold this straight out.
09:30 And when that length starts to drop out,
09:32 which you guys can see it dropping out,
09:34 I'm gonna eliminate this same thing that we did on top.
09:38 I'm gonna point cut to eliminate my length.
09:43 And then I'm gonna take the same section one more time.
09:49 - So, in essence, Dela, this is what marries
09:53 your interior to your perimeter.
09:56 - Absolutely.
09:58 So, I'm gonna add.
09:59 So, just to open it up just a little bit further,
10:01 just as I did, I'm actually just gonna open up the interior.
10:05 And the whole point is to create some textural movement.
10:10 And as you guys can see, my scissors are fairly long.
10:16 And the reason I like longer blades is,
10:19 I'll show you right here.
10:21 I use the entire length of my blade,
10:25 meaning that as deep as the length is,
10:29 is how deep I go into it.
10:30 And I'll show you guys one more time.
10:32 So, the same section, it's about an inch in width.
10:36 I'm gonna bring it straight out from the head.
10:39 My fingers are now at a 45, and I'm gonna point cut.
10:42 Once to eliminate the length.
10:45 And the second time to create texture
10:52 and movement in the interior.
10:54 (scissors snipping)
10:57 I will show you guys what this looks like
11:01 when I release it.
11:02 So, her length is still there.
11:08 This is where her movement starts.
11:12 And you can see how soft and blended that is.
11:16 And we haven't done anything with her length.
11:21 Generally, we start at the perimeter and work our way up.
11:24 We're starting at the perimeter,
11:25 but we're not trimming any of that off.
11:26 That'll actually be the last.
11:27 We'll do that last.
11:29 So, now that I've established my guide,
11:34 I'm gonna work on the left side.
11:37 I'm gonna take a section from the crown to the nape.
11:43 And I'm gonna do the same thing.
11:49 I'm taking a small amount from my previous guide.
11:51 Again, holding this straight out.
11:54 Once that starts to drop,
11:57 I know exactly where I'm gonna start.
11:58 There's my starting point.
12:00 Point cut.
12:03 Same section.
12:09 Allow myself enough length, just as I was saying,
12:14 the length of my blades.
12:15 (scissors snipping)
12:18 So, if you're working with someone with really thick hair,
12:23 the great thing is you can go in twice,
12:24 you can go in three times,
12:25 you can go in as many times as you need to
12:27 to create that movement and open it up.
12:30 So, same section.
12:31 I'm not releasing that.
12:33 I'm gonna bring it straight up.
12:35 There's my connection, my shortest point,
12:37 and then my length,
12:38 so I know that I'm gonna work from the bottom up,
12:42 creating that really, really diffuse finish.
12:45 I'm gonna take the same section.
12:51 Notice that I'm not dropping my section.
12:53 And again, if you want more movement at the crown area,
12:56 that seems to be an area that when you have really long hair
12:59 it tends to get a little bit flatter,
13:01 or you're not getting the volume.
13:02 This is great for round brushing.
13:05 I know we have a great round brushing technique.
13:08 - You mean the art of the blow dry?
13:10 - The art of the blow dry.
13:11 This is the perfect haircut for that.
13:13 So, can you guys see?
13:15 Can you guys see what's happening in through here?
13:17 And she's layered all the way down.
13:20 - Beautiful and aerial movement.
13:21 - Yeah, beautiful and aerial movement.
13:23 So, I'm gonna work the same manner,
13:25 just keeping the right side out of my way.
13:29 And you can see some of her static popping in there.
13:33 So, every section that I take, I'm also taking a step.
13:36 And notice that my finger positioning.
13:40 (scissors snipping)
13:43 My fingers are pointed down, eliminating that length.
13:47 - So, you're traveling.
13:50 - I'm traveling.
13:51 - You're traveling guide.
13:52 - Yep, it is definitely a traveling guide.
13:54 - As I'm watching you, I'm seeing angles in my head.
14:01 - Crazy.
14:02 - I feel like a man a little bit.
14:03 I see 90 degrees, and then I see an arc.
14:07 So, it's--
14:08 - What would you call this?
14:09 - I don't know what to call it.
14:10 This is actually--
14:11 - Can you turn her a little bit?
14:13 - Yeah.
14:14 This is a great haircut for someone that wants versatility.
14:19 This is really great for someone that,
14:22 we always joke around and call it,
14:23 it makes those people crazy that want the three layers,
14:26 because this is what, a bazillion layers?
14:29 And the only way you can really get these angles
14:33 as beautiful as they are, is to do it dry.
14:36 Because it really creates a soft effect.
14:38 And then the best part of it is,
14:40 you're actually kind of styling the hair.
14:42 - So, Anna's asking, can this be done
14:45 on naturally wavy hair?
14:46 And if so, would you do it wet or dry?
14:49 - Okay, so, hey Anna.
14:51 So, Anna's question is,
14:52 can this be done on naturally wavy hair?
14:55 Absolutely.
14:56 I would see if the client wears her hair straight,
14:59 or if she only wears it wavy.
15:01 And both ways, I would blow dry it.
15:04 I would just blow it out.
15:05 And if she wears it with some volume,
15:07 I'd even use a round brush to leave some volume in the hair.
15:11 Always dry, because it lets you control
15:13 how much hair you're taking off.
15:15 So, definitely.
15:17 Always dry.
15:18 A lot of hair, I very seldom cut it wet.
15:21 I feel like when you cut it wet,
15:22 there's a little bit of surprise at the very end of it.
15:24 It may end up a little bit shorter,
15:26 or you have to go back in detail,
15:28 so you tend to chip in to soften it.
15:31 You're creating all the softness and the movement
15:34 as you're creating the shape.
15:36 I'm gonna keep showing you guys this,
15:38 just because I think it's just such a great finish
15:41 on long hair.
15:42 Erin, can you kind of just do this with your head?
15:47 You can see the movement.
15:48 Very good, thank you.
15:50 You're good, you're a really good model.
15:52 (laughing)
15:53 You are a good model, girlfriend.
15:55 (laughing)
15:56 So, my next section is gonna be back to the crown.
15:59 I'm gonna go from the crown, right behind the ear.
16:02 And now, this is a little bit of a trick.
16:04 And now, this is kind of always that tricky spot,
16:07 you know, where it goes a little shorter at the shoulders.
16:09 So, I'm gonna take this section,
16:11 and I'm gonna over-direct it back to my previous guide.
16:16 Same thing, I'm gonna allow this length to fall out.
16:20 There is my guide.
16:22 I'm going in point cut.
16:24 (scissors snipping)
16:27 Yeah, always allow yourself a little bit of a cheat, yep.
16:30 Again, if this is a thinner area,
16:34 you may wanna go in a little softer with your texturizing.
16:39 If you have somebody who has really, really thick hair,
16:41 you can actually go over it a couple of times.
16:43 Same thing.
16:46 So, we are always connecting back to the crown.
16:49 - To kind of piggyback on Anna's question,
16:54 I feel like one of the things I'm sure people would wonder
16:57 was what happens if she decides that she wants to,
17:01 you know, go back to a wavy sort of look,
17:03 or a curly look, and how will this haircut translate
17:07 to having and supporting texture in the hair?
17:11 - That's actually a really great question.
17:14 The thing about this haircut with curly hair,
17:15 it's beautiful 'cause it creates dimension.
17:17 It actually makes those curls look 3D.
17:20 If you are wearing it wavy,
17:21 my hair's actually cut like that.
17:23 You are my hairstylist.
17:25 - Yes, yes.
17:26 (laughing)
17:26 But you know what else I'm thinking about?
17:27 The fact that you're debulking it.
17:30 So-- - Yeah, you're debulking it.
17:31 - Especially if the hair's curly,
17:33 you get that dreaded sort of triangle look.
17:34 - Yes.
17:35 - This is also a fantastic way to kind of make the hair fall
17:38 and, you know, the curls cascade into one another
17:42 as opposed to drawing out a triangle.
17:44 - You will never get the triangle dry.
17:47 - The dreaded triangle.
17:47 - The dreaded triangle, that's like a tongue twister.
17:50 The dreaded triangle, it will always fall beautifully.
17:53 And my favorite thing about this is
17:55 your clients have to come to you for this.
17:57 It is a custom haircut.
17:59 It is specific to their texture, their density,
18:01 their head shape.
18:02 It is specific to the way that that client wears her hair.
18:05 They can't go to just any salon and say, "Recreate it."
18:07 I've had clients in the past that have moved to the,
18:10 you know, they go in and say, "I just wanna get a trim."
18:12 It's really hard to see what these angles are
18:15 if you're not trained in this haircut.
18:17 So this is a great way,
18:19 if you're trying to build up a clientele
18:20 or if you have a big color clientele
18:22 and your clients do wanna keep their hair long
18:24 or they want versatility,
18:27 this is probably the best haircut for them.
18:30 And they'll come in and ask for it.
18:32 They'll ask for it by name.
18:33 They'll just say, "I want a dry haircut."
18:35 You can name it whatever you want.
18:36 I don't think I really,
18:37 what do we name this haircut?
18:39 Modern Structures? - Structures.
18:41 - Yeah, Modern Structures.
18:43 This is actually one of the haircuts
18:46 that we have included in our spring/summer 2018 collection.
18:51 And we thought it was important,
18:52 especially with the bold color placement
18:54 that we're still seeing
18:55 and all the long hair that we see
18:58 realistically behind the chair.
19:00 I think that this is great.
19:02 You can alter it to any length, to any client.
19:06 I've actually done this even on a bob
19:08 where it's just opening up and creating all that movement.
19:11 You can see that's,
19:12 you can actually see the,
19:14 I'll pull this back down.
19:15 - And you know what too, Dee?
19:16 I'm gonna chime in.
19:17 I've seen you do this haircut
19:19 like numerous amounts of times on hair extensions.
19:23 And it's also like a great way
19:26 to create in-deep bulk extensions
19:28 and make it kind of be seamless
19:30 with the actual hair itself.
19:32 - That's actually a really good call out.
19:34 I do extensions mostly for friends,
19:37 but I feel like everybody wants to,
19:39 they wanna keep their long hair
19:40 because they pay for it, first of all.
19:43 You don't wanna cut it all off.
19:45 But it's also, I feel that whenever
19:48 you have been taught to train extensions,
19:49 it's always razoring.
19:50 There's nothing wrong with razoring.
19:52 But if you want a lot of movement,
19:53 if you want a lot of versatility
19:55 and you wanna be able to get a blowout out of it,
19:57 you wanna be able to curl it,
19:59 you wanna be able to wear it,
20:00 even with the natural wave
20:01 that sometimes happens with an extension,
20:03 I think this is beautiful.
20:05 And this is, if you cut someone's extensions like this,
20:09 I promise you that they will,
20:12 nobody will know that they have extensions.
20:14 I guarantee it.
20:15 I'm gonna put my,
20:16 here are my sample bands on.
20:17 Yeah.
20:18 - And you know, I'm gonna add that
20:19 we do a lot of photo shoots
20:21 and one of the telltale signs
20:22 of having hair extensions
20:24 is the fact that they're so heavy.
20:26 And you know, we try to get in with the wind machine
20:28 and blow 'em up and they're just so heavy.
20:30 - So heavy.
20:31 - So I think this is also a way
20:33 to disguise the fact that you have hair extensions.
20:36 Nobody wants to advertise that they have hair extensions
20:38 and so this, again, for many reasons,
20:41 it's a great resource for many different hair situations.
20:46 - So we have another question
20:48 and she's asking,
20:50 would you ever use a cutting lotion on a dry cut?
20:52 - I would not because one of the reasons
20:56 I wouldn't use a cutting lotion
20:57 is because it would kind of make that hair limp and wet.
21:00 So as you can tell, I'm fanning it.
21:03 No matter what I'm doing, I'm fanning
21:04 and I'm really kind of relying on that hair to fan out.
21:07 So if I was using a cutting lotion,
21:09 I would think that it would kind of fall over.
21:10 It wouldn't give me the same access
21:12 to go in deeper with my point cutting.
21:14 Good question.
21:15 - It also changes the porosity.
21:17 You know, you don't get an even porosity
21:19 and so you might have more elasticity
21:21 and more stretch and pull in certain areas
21:23 and so you lose the precision.
21:26 - Right, and then it also changes,
21:28 it doesn't, you do lose the precision.
21:30 It also changes, you may end up a little bit longer,
21:33 you know, in some areas.
21:34 So I would do all wet or all dry.
21:37 And typically when I'm doing a dry haircut,
21:39 it's dry from beginning to end.
21:41 Except if I'm working on the fringe,
21:44 maybe I'll go back in and wet it, but for the most part.
21:52 And I love this because once your clients
21:56 start coming in and they're asking for it,
21:58 they almost come with their hair prepped.
22:00 So they tend to shampoo their hair,
22:02 blow dry it and come in.
22:04 So it can be faster in the salon as well.
22:08 It's really, it's really kind of cutting down.
22:12 Everybody says, oh, does it take longer?
22:13 No, because we're going from beginning to end on dry hair.
22:16 And typically, and you know, originally,
22:19 I would do a wet haircut, I would dry it,
22:21 see where I need to take some more of that thickness off
22:24 or that, you know, to create more dimension in the area.
22:27 And whenever that happened,
22:29 I felt like I was doing two haircuts instead of one.
22:31 - How long do you recommend the average hairstylist
22:36 looking to recreate something like this on their clients?
22:39 - The first time, I would probably say 45 minutes minimum.
22:46 If you are not a dry hair cutter,
22:48 maybe give yourself a little bit more time
22:50 if it's something you're dabbling in.
22:51 'Cause remember, it's from the very beginning to the end.
22:55 So it may take you a bit of adjustment.
22:58 And I would explain, you know,
22:59 I would explain it to your client
23:00 that this is something different and special.
23:02 It's something that they probably never had before.
23:05 It's just a great introduction to changing,
23:09 changing something up, whether, again,
23:12 whether it's minimal or they want a big change.
23:14 So 45 minutes is fair.
23:18 And then when you're really good at it,
23:20 you can probably do this, I would say 25 minutes.
23:24 So fairly quick.
23:25 So my last section back here,
23:31 same as the other side, I'm gonna take this,
23:35 I'm gonna over-direct it.
23:36 And then blend through the top.
23:47 I'm always looking to my previous guide
23:49 to let me know how long or how short.
23:53 And then actually here's, the back is complete.
23:56 So here's her shortest, there's her shortest layer.
24:05 And it's just really soft and pretty
24:12 and it really softens up her hair color.
24:14 It makes it melt, makes her colors melt.
24:17 Now we haven't taken anything off of her length, so.
24:22 So next, I'm going to go to the top.
24:28 So.
24:30 And this is where I wish I was a little bit taller.
24:35 (laughing)
24:36 Thank you, O'Neal.
24:37 You are like model of the month for sure.
24:42 So for the top, we're gonna do something a little different.
24:45 So I'm gonna section her off
24:47 and I'll show you guys the section in a second.
24:49 I'm gonna take a square section.
24:55 And I'll clip this out of the way
25:01 just so you guys have a better view here.
25:04 And remember, this was my guide.
25:07 - Takes you right back to where you started.
25:09 - Takes you right back, we are always going back there.
25:12 So I'm gonna take a horizontal section
25:15 and I'm gonna bring it back.
25:19 Find your length.
25:25 I'm not recutting what I've already cut.
25:27 I'm coming right to that point.
25:29 But because I really want this top area to be soft
25:33 and if she does decide to blow dry it with a round brush,
25:36 I want it to be just really big, billowy waves.
25:40 So I'm just really gonna soften this up.
25:42 - Dealing, what would you say if someone wanted to use
25:53 fitting shears or other types of instruments
25:58 to recreate this look?
26:00 - I think it's a little difficult to use fitting shears
26:02 to recreate this.
26:03 And I think most clients know what fitting shears are
26:05 and either they ask for them or they're terrified of them.
26:08 I think that this is just an alternative to that.
26:10 And thinning shears, you tend to do more thinning
26:13 and debulking.
26:14 This is not about debulking.
26:16 This is really about creating movement
26:17 and dimension on the ends
26:20 and creating a very diffused finish.
26:22 Which I guess if you try hard enough,
26:25 yes, you can use thinning shears.
26:27 But this is much faster and it's more consistent.
26:30 - I feel like it's the difference between
26:32 making a cake from scratch versus a Betty Crocker cake.
26:36 - Yeah, this is true.
26:37 This is customized.
26:39 - Good analogy.
26:39 - If you are looking at exactly what you're taking out,
26:42 whereas thinning shears, those blades are set.
26:45 - They're set.
26:46 - You can only take out where those blades are
26:49 and there's no deviating.
26:51 It's going to be like a stamp every time.
26:53 Whereas this is more customizable
26:57 and it becomes more of a signature,
26:59 more special, more unique.
27:01 - Well, you just said it is signature.
27:03 I feel like I have less control with thinning shears
27:05 and I use thinning shears for blending.
27:07 So I probably wouldn't do a whole haircut
27:09 from beginning to end, especially on long hair.
27:12 Maybe on shorter hair you absolutely can,
27:14 but on longer hair,
27:15 eh, I probably wouldn't be so crazy about it.
27:18 And again, everything is being over-directed.
27:22 So she had a couple shorter pieces in the front,
27:25 so I'm probably not going to have a ton
27:27 when I'm over-directing it back.
27:29 And you can see I'm stationary.
27:31 Everything is coming back to me.
27:32 And the other thing too is
27:36 she's sitting up a little higher.
27:38 So I'll gather my section and then I bring my arms down
27:43 because nothing is changing in her section.
27:44 So I can really get in there.
27:48 And if you really want this topiary to be softer,
27:52 then I would go into it again
27:55 and slicing from the interior up.
27:59 And again, it's going to give you that,
28:01 that type of movement.
28:04 (scissors snipping)
28:07 And the top, it's going to be my last section.
28:09 I'm going to over-direct all of this back.
28:18 So I have a few pieces.
28:25 And the best thing about this haircut
28:30 is she can wear it to either side.
28:31 She can wear it down the center.
28:34 It's really customized, again, based on her head shape.
28:39 It's based on her bone structure.
28:42 It's taking all the elements that have influence
28:46 in the overall look and customizing.
28:49 I think in today's world, we have to customize
28:53 because otherwise we kind of become
28:55 cookie cutter hairdressers.
28:57 I know that everybody has their own personal style,
28:59 but this is really specific to that client's needs.
29:03 Okay, I'm going to show you guys the back again.
29:04 So you can see when I release this.
29:07 - Celic. - Yes.
29:17 - I know that one of the other advantages
29:19 to a haircut like this is that it also
29:21 grows out like super gracefully.
29:24 How often would you recommend telling your client
29:28 to return to get this touched up, recreated, refreshed?
29:33 - So it really kind of depends on the client.
29:36 I feel like clients with long hair like this
29:39 don't come in as often.
29:41 So it can be, if somebody is very, loves getting haircuts
29:45 and they get a lot of color, I would say,
29:47 you know, eight to 12 weeks, which is typical.
29:50 And then you're not going to go in as heavily.
29:52 Maybe you're just going to skim over the ends
29:54 and you're not going to go in as deep.
29:55 So you're just kind of taking off
29:56 what needs to be taken off.
29:57 So it really depends on your client
29:59 and how much they do to their hair
30:01 and the color that they have in there.
30:03 And you know, the amount of change.
30:04 We have clients that like something different all the time.
30:07 So this is a great way of giving them that.
30:09 But realistically, eight to 12 weeks,
30:12 it depends on the specifics of the client.
30:14 Okay, so I've cut the back, I've cut the top.
30:17 So now I'm going to work on the side.
30:20 So I'm actually going to come right back
30:22 to the crown where we started.
30:24 So I'm going to start,
30:27 I'm going to go from the crown to the front of the ear.
30:32 I'm just going to section that off.
30:40 Then I'm going to go from the crown to the back of the ear.
30:43 That's kind of where we left off with the back.
30:46 And I'm going to come right behind her.
30:47 And the same thing that we were doing
30:51 with the front of the ear.
30:53 We're going to let her length drop.
30:55 My fingers will be at a 45.
31:00 Here's my shortest point.
31:01 You guys can see my shortest point here.
31:03 So I'm going to go from this length to this length.
31:10 And I'm actually just going to point cut.
31:13 Just to eliminate that length.
31:19 I'm going to take the same section
31:21 and now I can go in and diffuse it.
31:23 Point cut.
31:26 And if you have somebody who has really thin sides, like me,
31:31 you can go in with a lighter hand.
31:34 You don't have to go in as heavy.
31:37 So then I'm going to take the next section.
31:40 The sides will be done in three sections.
31:42 So I'm going to go back to the crown,
31:44 to the corner of the eye.
31:48 (faint talking)
31:51 Let's take this out.
31:54 I'm going to take all this and over direct it back.
32:00 The reason I'm over directing it
32:03 is so I'm leaving kind of the thickness
32:05 of the length on the sides.
32:06 - How do you counteract the actual perimeter of that style?
32:12 Not getting too thin or flimsy.
32:14 I mean, you talked about kind of addressing that later,
32:18 but are there things that you can think about
32:20 while you are mid haircut
32:22 to kind of prevent that from happening?
32:25 - So if you're allowing that hairline to drop out,
32:29 which you see me doing with all the sections,
32:32 you're leaving it the last.
32:34 I like to go back in.
32:34 I like a really clean perimeter,
32:37 especially when you have so much movement on the interior.
32:40 I really like to create a strong perimeter.
32:45 So I'll go back in at the very end, you guys will see,
32:48 and I'll take off what needs to be taken off
32:50 just to create a clean finish.
32:52 But I think some clients do like it
32:54 a little softer and wispier.
32:56 But as you can see,
32:57 nothing has changed with her perimeter at all
32:59 since we started cutting.
32:59 Her perimeter is the same.
33:01 So I'm done with that.
33:06 So I have one last section,
33:09 and I'm always going back to the crown
33:11 and behind the ear,
33:13 and all of this will come back together.
33:15 (scissors snipping)
33:18 - So I have pretty long shears,
33:21 but I don't believe I own ones that are that long.
33:24 Those to me look like barbering shears,
33:26 which are excellent for doing a haircut like this.
33:29 Is there a particular brand that you prefer?
33:32 Like what brand are those?
33:34 Or like, you know, any one that you like in particular?
33:37 Or is it more about just the actual length of the shears?
33:40 - It's actually just about,
33:41 I don't really have a particular pair that I like.
33:43 It's kind of in my arsenal of, you know,
33:46 scissors that I've collected over the years.
33:48 So for me, it's really just the length of the blade.
33:52 So the longer the blade, the deeper you can get in,
33:54 and the more you can open up the interior.
33:56 - And how many inches are those?
33:58 - How many inches are these?
33:59 I think they're about eight.
34:02 I want to say I've had these for so long.
34:03 - Eight inch shears.
34:04 - Yeah, I like these, and then I also like these too.
34:07 And often when I get to the perimeter,
34:09 I'll switch to a little bit of a smaller shear
34:12 to make it a bit more precision.
34:13 - Five or six?
34:14 - Yeah, I think these are probably five.
34:17 So five and seven, five and seven and a half.
34:19 Do you have to have five and seven?
34:21 No, you can do it with any length.
34:24 - What brand are those?
34:25 - I have no idea.
34:27 I've had these, this was actually,
34:29 I've had these for a very long time,
34:31 and it was kind of these test scissors.
34:33 I was testing, and I liked them.
34:35 Now there's nothing on there.
34:36 (laughing)
34:37 - Okay, all right.
34:38 - They're like no-name scissors.
34:39 - I've been asking you about your shears
34:43 for like weeks now.
34:44 - You have, and I still don't have an answer for you.
34:46 (laughing)
34:48 I still don't have an answer for you.
34:49 - I've been paying it for yourself.
34:51 - It's like, 'cause I got one for me too!
34:52 And I usually do, but these have been,
34:55 these have been around for a very long time.
34:57 You know, they're just,
34:59 they've just been around for a long time.
35:02 So we're gonna work on the other side.
35:04 So same thing, we're gonna go to the crown.
35:07 And then from the crown, I'm gonna go to behind the ear.
35:14 And then from the crown to the front of the ear,
35:17 just like we did on that side.
35:18 And remember, I'm standing back here.
35:27 All the sections will be over-directed back,
35:32 so let me give you a cleaner,
35:35 give you a cleaner peek at this.
35:37 (scissors snipping)
35:40 So someone says that she has thin hair.
35:47 Would this cut make it look thicker?
35:50 - Mm-hmm.
35:51 Because we're taking,
35:52 this is actually excellent for thin hair,
35:54 because we're not taking the bulk out,
35:56 we're just creating the movement.
35:57 So it is fantastic for fine hair.
36:00 It's great for all textures.
36:03 So she has quite a bit of hair,
36:06 but it's thin by strands.
36:08 So it's great for fine hair,
36:10 it's great for really thick hair.
36:12 It's actually for everybody.
36:14 So the same thing, I'm gonna let the strap out,
36:19 so that we're preserving that length,
36:23 and I'm just gonna point cut from the longest point,
36:25 which is her length, work my way up.
36:28 Not gonna release this section,
36:29 I'm gonna come right back up.
36:31 And point cut it again.
36:35 - We have another question.
36:37 Sarah asks, do you take her natural part
36:39 into consideration when layering the sides?
36:42 - I do, I do.
36:43 So the good thing about doing it when it's dry,
36:46 you can adjust for cowlicks,
36:50 you can adjust for kind of those little trouble areas.
36:53 And I'm not using a ton of tension,
36:55 that's the other part of it too.
36:56 So always take that into consideration.
36:58 (laughing)
37:04 So next section, same thing, I'm just over directing.
37:08 We are from the crown to the corner of the eye.
37:13 So as you can see, my sections are fairly big.
37:15 So once you get the hang of it,
37:16 this haircut can be pretty quick.
37:20 Again, I'm always gonna go to the length,
37:22 I'm gonna let that length drop out,
37:24 I can actually see where it is.
37:25 So start my point cutting right there.
37:28 I'm always bending my fingers,
37:32 just to make that hair fan out.
37:34 And I'm always connecting,
37:36 there's nothing that's disconnected.
37:39 So everything will connect back to the crown,
37:42 that's why it's so important to start off
37:44 with the right length at the crown.
37:46 See how that all opens up.
37:49 - And then for someone just tuning in,
37:53 they asked again, would you do this cut
37:55 on someone with curly hair?
37:57 - You can do it on someone with curly hair.
37:59 If it's someone that wears their hair curly and straight,
38:02 if it's someone that wears their hair
38:03 only curly all the time,
38:06 I would probably just blow dry it
38:08 in the shape that they wear,
38:10 and then kind of like almost cherry pick the sections
38:13 and cut it, sculpting.
38:15 But with this, if somebody does wear their hair
38:16 in different ways, I would blow it smooth.
38:19 If they like volume, I'd actually blow it
38:21 with some volume in the hair,
38:23 and then do the haircut.
38:24 - All right, and then Jose is asking, why low tension?
38:31 - I just want the hair to fall as it would naturally.
38:34 I feel like I'm not trying to,
38:36 I'm not really trying to take any of the,
38:38 I'm not trying to force the hair into a direction
38:41 that it doesn't wanna be.
38:43 So you can see, I'm creating tension
38:45 when I'm combing it into my section, then I release it.
38:50 I already have my fingers positioned.
38:53 So that was my last section, I'm gonna go over it
38:55 one more time.
39:00 Make sure that everything is blended.
39:01 So, we are almost there.
39:26 You can kinda see, you can see the movement.
39:30 I'm not trying to create an angle towards her face.
39:41 I feel like we've done that, you guys know how to do it.
39:43 But I do wanna soften it up just a little bit.
39:45 She had some shorter pieces through the front,
39:48 so I'm gonna have her tilt her head forward.
39:50 Let her hair naturally fall.
39:53 (scissors snipping)
39:56 And again, I'm just keeping in mind
39:59 that she can wear her hair so many different ways.
40:01 I'm actually just gonna take a mohawk section,
40:04 I'm gonna come from her crown all the way to the hairline.
40:09 - I see.
40:11 - Yeah.
40:12 - What if you have a clientele and you've kind of
40:16 been in the habit of doing the traditional
40:18 sort of shampoo at the bowl, and then it comes back
40:20 and you shampoo condition it, it's wet hair,
40:22 and that's how you do 100% of your haircuts.
40:25 How do you start that conversation to get more clients
40:30 that will do a dry haircut?
40:32 What do you say to those clients that are now gonna say,
40:34 well, what are you doing, why are you changing it up,
40:37 why are you doing a dry haircut on me all of a sudden?
40:40 - Well, I think it always starts with the consultation.
40:42 And clients are pretty savvy now,
40:44 they always come in with photos.
40:46 They're always coming with photos.
40:47 So if, in a lot of the photos that we're seeing,
40:50 the hair is perfectly finished.
40:51 So if someone says, you know,
40:53 here's the long haircut that I want,
40:56 I would talk about how that happened,
40:58 and just kind of walk them through the process.
41:00 It is so easy to convert someone from wet hair
41:02 to getting it cut dry.
41:04 It's really just the consultation and talking
41:07 about the maintenance, and it'll be specific to you.
41:11 Your hair, and very often, the hair will fall
41:14 perfectly into place with very little effort.
41:16 So as soon as you say that, it's kind of a sole deal.
41:20 - Good advice.
41:21 - Good advice.
41:23 Thanks.
41:23 So, still working just to soften,
41:28 to soften that up just a little bit.
41:30 And you guys can kind of see,
41:31 you can see the static and her layers.
41:35 So I'm gonna go right back to the crown again.
41:37 Turn your head forward again.
41:39 And over direct, over direct that section to the center.
41:47 It's a lot of up and down, up and down.
41:50 The cool thing is, when your client is getting this haircut
41:53 they can see their haircut coming to life,
41:55 and they get so excited.
41:58 And it gives you the option to teach them how to style it,
42:02 because then it leaves you a little more time.
42:05 And all I'm doing is I'm taking any lines out
42:07 that she may have.
42:17 - Okay, can you talk to me about money?
42:20 Like, is this something that you would charge more for?
42:23 Is this something that all of a sudden,
42:25 if you start doing on your clients that your price goes up,
42:29 you become primarily a dry hair cutter?
42:32 Show me the money.
42:33 - Show you the money?
42:33 Well, I think that anytime you're a specialist,
42:37 and you're creating a specialty look,
42:39 so there's a couple different ways of looking at it.
42:42 Is it taking you any longer to do?
42:44 No, it actually takes you less time to do.
42:46 So do you wanna charge more?
42:47 You can.
42:48 And if you are charging more,
42:49 it's because not everybody does this haircut,
42:51 and they have to come specifically to you.
42:53 And when it becomes in demand,
42:55 people tend to wanna pay a little bit more.
42:56 And when you are a specialist,
42:58 if you call yourself a specialist in hair cutting,
43:00 in dry hair cutting,
43:02 it actually elevates your craft to the next level.
43:06 So I think you have the opportunity to charge more.
43:08 Do you have to?
43:10 You don't have to, you can.
43:11 You definitely can.
43:13 And if no one else is doing it, you most certainly can.
43:17 (scratching)
43:19 - Sounds good, I have dollar signs in my eyes.
43:21 (laughing)
43:23 - You always have dollar signs in your eyes.
43:25 So I'm actually gonna take just a little bit
43:28 of Texture Builder,
43:30 just so I want you guys to see.
43:33 I'm gonna spray this in here.
43:35 I want you to see all these beautiful layers.
43:43 Texture Builder is my favorite dry wax.
43:48 You can see how fine her hair is, and I'm using it,
43:52 and it actually helps me get a little more substance
43:54 in her hair, so when I'm shifting it around,
43:57 you can see those layers.
44:01 - And it smells amazing.
44:02 - And it smells amazing, that's important too.
44:05 And last but not least,
44:08 I'm gonna do one last thing,
44:11 because she does have that shorter area
44:13 that we started off with, that she came with.
44:15 So I'm gonna take right off of her part,
44:17 her hair is, she normally wears it off center,
44:20 so I just left it with her natural part.
44:22 I'm gonna take a section,
44:24 about an inch and a half in depth,
44:26 and I'm gonna go right, depending on how thick or thin,
44:30 with her I'm ending up right behind the ear.
44:32 Hold this up, and over direct it forward.
44:43 And I'm just gonna do the same thing.
44:44 Here's her shortest point, her fringe,
44:46 I'm gonna softly connect,
44:48 I'm gonna softly connect that.
44:51 And do the same thing on the opposite side.
44:53 All of this, over direct it forward.
45:04 And here I'm gonna go from the length on the right side,
45:09 to her shortest point.
45:10 And that is it for my layering.
45:15 So last is when I go in,
45:28 and shape up her perimeter.
45:34 Thank you.
45:34 So,
45:37 tilt your head forward for me.
45:44 So I'm just gonna go in,
45:46 and really just clean it up.
45:47 Like I said, this is the perfect haircut,
45:50 for someone that, and you can see,
45:52 as much layering as we've done,
45:54 it's not really any thinner.
45:56 This is basically what she came in with, so.
45:58 I don't even know if it's,
46:01 it's probably even a little bit less than half an inch.
46:03 And I'm pulling everything back,
46:05 and over directing it behind her shoulders.
46:08 - And now did you switch to your shorter shears?
46:14 - I did, I switched to,
46:16 I mean, they're still a little bit longer,
46:19 they're probably five inches.
46:21 And you can see,
46:22 you can see how pretty, and it makes it look thicker,
46:26 even though she has layers coming all the way down,
46:29 to the very near bottom.
46:31 And this is what I call kind of my money shot.
46:33 I pull everything forward.
46:36 I pull everything forward.
46:43 And clean that up.
46:57 (scissors snipping)
47:00 Now you can leave it blunt,
47:08 I feel like when girls have fine hair,
47:10 they like a blunt finish.
47:11 Or if you're working on extensions,
47:13 I would just go in and soften that up.
47:16 And that,
47:21 is all of it.
47:25 I hope you guys like it.
47:26 I'm actually gonna hand this off to Michelle,
47:29 and then I'm gonna curl her,
47:30 so you guys can see her at the very, very end.
47:32 Curled, a curled version of this.
47:35 So, thanks for watching you guys,
47:37 I hope you like it.
47:39 And stay tuned, Michelle is gonna be here in two seconds.