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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Okay, we are live. How's it going guys? My name is Matt Zwinning, Global Creative Director for Lanza, and I'm here with my good friend Leah Freeman, our Color Director.
00:09 We're hanging out with BTC. We're going to do some cool stuff for you guys today. Leah's going to show you some great color techniques.
00:15 And when we were waiting to do the log, we just decided that we would introduce you to something that I like to call the six-figure haircut.
00:22 The reason that I call it the six-figure haircut is because I think a lot of stylists behind the chair, when somebody comes in with long hair, they want to show them what they can do.
00:30 But we tend to do a little bit too much when it comes to long layers. And I guarantee you that if you take these haircuts behind the chair for yourself, you really will notice an increase in your volume of clientele.
00:41 Because sometimes the best haircut is not to cut. It's more about creating a really good shape that can be styled multiple ways. Right?
00:49 Awesome.
00:50 So I'm going to have you stand up for me, love, all right? Like we talked about. Come over and grab the back.
00:55 Okay.
00:56 So we're going to start by cutting the perimeter. You can see that she's got this really beautiful, beautiful long hair.
01:02 And one of the things when we first met today, we were talking about is it's that nervousness that these long-haired clients get behind the chair, right?
01:10 You said you get nervous when you go, as opposed to just creating a nice, strong, blunt finish on the ends.
01:17 So this section is going to basically be like a horseshoe from the ear to ear.
01:24 It's going to come through here.
01:27 Again, we're using the wide tooth portion of our comb still.
01:31 Sometimes you got to get on the ground.
01:39 You know what I'm saying?
01:40 I ain't too proud to beg.
01:42 So we use that wide tooth portion of our comb.
01:49 We're actually cutting directly underneath the comb.
01:51 So we're not keeping any distance between our sheer and the comb.
01:56 And that's actually going to allow us to create more of a strong finish on that end.
02:00 And the reality is, is that when you over texturize these ends or when you start to put too much softness in them, that hair that needs to be cut more frequently.
02:10 So the hair then gets shorter.
02:11 So if you leave a little bit more of a firm finish to the end, with hair this length, it will naturally have texture.
02:17 So you don't need to go through and over texturize those ends, which a lot of people tend to do.
02:21 All right, have a seat.
02:27 Does anyone have any questions for Matt?
02:28 Make sure you comment and he will answer them.
02:31 He's all ours for the time being.
02:34 For the day.
02:35 For the day.
02:36 For the day.
02:37 All right, so now we have to cut the side or connect the side.
02:42 And typically what you'll notice, and we'll show you this even right here now.
02:46 Whoever cut her hair last time more than likely cut off the corner of the side.
02:53 So taking an inch off the back, we actually only have a quarter of an inch to take off over that ear.
03:01 So that means it was already starting to angle up and you really didn't get a face frame into a perimeter.
03:07 It started to create a soft peak, which is a different look.
03:10 It's not bad, not good.
03:11 Just know what you're doing.
03:13 So I'm going to have you turn your head like that.
03:22 Again, we're using the wide tooth portion of our comb.
03:29 Cut directly underneath the comb.
03:32 Do you like to use any product as a cutting lotion at all?
03:35 If I do, I use the Lanza Healing Oil right here.
03:40 Especially if I do a razor haircut.
03:42 That's something that you want to do because you want to keep that cuticle in kind of like the best shape as you're going through.
03:48 And any time that you use maybe a slide cut or a razor cut or something along those lines, you start to get real aggressive on that cuticle.
03:55 Almost like if you were to take that plastic tip off your shoelace and it starts to fray like that.
04:01 That same thing can happen to the hair.
04:03 So anything you can do to kind of seal it down when you're going to be aggressive like that on the cut will help you out.
04:13 I'd like people to notice the dropping like it's hot right there.
04:18 Not bad for 40.
04:21 Come on now.
04:24 Okay, so again we're cutting directly underneath the comb.
04:27 And then we've created a really nice solid perimeter for our six-figure haircut.
04:34 Now the reason that I call this a six-figure haircut is because when you can do this behind the chair and you can actually kind of best word would be control yourself behind the chair and not have to consistently prove yourself to that client that's coming in.
04:50 And then what you'll get is you'll get that repeat business and you'll get that friend business.
04:55 And that's the most important part is getting that friend business from the clientele.
05:00 We have one question from Jen Marie.
05:02 She asked if you recommend parting the hair naturally for a cut like this or do you ask them where they part it?
05:07 Right, so we actually had a, that's funny that you mentioned that Jen Marie, we had that conversation prior.
05:12 I asked her if she part off the middle, she said no, she parts off to her left just slightly.
05:17 So I go off the part in this instance.
05:19 If it's somebody who likes to move it around a lot, then we'll just cut it off the middle.
05:23 That's typically what it boils down to.
05:25 So we're going to set up the guideline for our face frame.
05:31 When we do that, that's going to hit about three inches I guess or so below her chin.
05:36 Does that sound like a fair plan?
05:38 Yeah.
05:39 Okay.
05:40 Converge those ends just a little bit.
05:44 Just a soft point cut there.
05:48 So there we've created the guideline for our face frame.
05:52 Now, one thing that people tend to do when they do a face frame is they go very, at a very steep, or not steep, a very wide angle.
06:02 So you actually cut that corner like we talked about earlier.
06:05 So my section has to be very vertical.
06:10 And then my shear actually has to mimic my subsection, right?
06:16 So the shear comes over the top.
06:18 There I just drop my guide.
06:20 And then it's just a small open and close of the shear to create that face frame.
06:27 But you see the angle of the scissor, the shear here, matches the angle of my subsection.
06:33 So that way I assure that I don't cut off the corner of her hair and I really give her like a nice vertical face frame.
06:41 What length of shear are you using?
06:43 That's a private question.
06:45 [Laughter]
06:47 Six and a half.
06:48 [Laughter]
06:50 Bigger than your average shear, but not quite.
06:53 [Laughter]
06:56 There you go.
06:57 So you've got a nice soft, because it's such a vertical angle, face frame.
07:02 So for somebody who wants something a little bit fresh and different, but doesn't want to lose their length,
07:06 this is a great way to go about it, because they're still going to feel like they have all their length,
07:10 because we didn't wipe out anything over her ear.
07:13 Okay.
07:15 What are some things that you talk about in the consultation, especially with someone with such long hair?
07:19 Yeah, I mean, I think the most important thing is to really understand how they feel about their hair.
07:24 You know?
07:25 I was in hair school a gazillion years ago,
07:28 and I watched the girl next to me give this woman a haircut,
07:32 and when she was done, this woman literally broke down and talked about how she ruined her life,
07:36 because she cut like three inches off, more off her hair than she wanted.
07:47 And I vowed that day to never fully cut too much off somebody's hair,
07:52 because the importance of understanding how people feel about their hair, I think is key in the consultation.
07:59 Some people are willing to do things and try things.
08:02 Most people just want a trim.
08:05 Like, that's the reality.
08:07 0.5% of that clientele behind the chair really want that change or that frequent newness.
08:13 The rest just want something that looks pretty that can last a long time.
08:17 And so that kind of comes into the whole texturizing format of things as well.
08:21 Like when you over-texturize hair, when you use thinning shears on long hair, for example,
08:26 you start to deplete the integrity of the hair, and so then that hair is going to need to be cut more frequently.
08:31 One of the things that bodes well for me in my salon is that my long-haired clients really only need to get their hair cut like twice a year.
08:40 And so you would think that that would be a bad thing, but then if you, my dear, are only getting your hair cut twice a year,
08:45 but your friend's getting her hair cut four times a year, you guys are going to talk about it, right, when you go out.
08:50 And then I'm going to end up getting her friend as a client.
08:52 So the broader your book, the better off you are.
08:55 All right, so the next section here is just going to be kind of like the start of our layers.
09:03 And we like to call this a concave layer, so essentially what it does is the layers are going to be a little bit shorter around the face,
09:09 longer to almost dissipating completely as they get towards the back.
09:12 And so what that does is that it allows you multiple ways to style your hair.
09:16 So it's going to look good with a round brush, a curling iron, a flat iron, just an air dry, anything you want to do.
09:24 We have another question from Jen Marie, which is awesome.
09:29 How important is it to keep the hair wet when you're doing a cut like this, or is it okay to kind of let it get drier?
09:34 Do you ever finish dry? What is your preference?
09:37 Yeah, so depending upon the hair type, we could totally finish dry.
09:40 I love dry-cutting hair, but I think there's a time and a place and a hair texture to do it, right?
09:45 I think dry-cutting has been overused now at this point.
09:48 Like everyone wants to dry-cut, but dry-cut isn't always the way to achieve the look you're going for.
09:53 You can let the hair dry, just keep like even moisture is basically what it boils down to.
09:58 If you like the hair a little bit more dry when you cut, let the hair get a little bit more dry.
10:02 If you like it a little bit more wet, keep it wet.
10:05 It's all about keeping it even.
10:07 What kind of sections are you taking?
10:09 Right now I'm taking one-inch sections that go from the front of her hairline to the top of the crown.
10:16 There's going to be three of them, right?
10:17 The first one was center, then we went off to the left, now off to the right.
10:24 You can see those sections go short to long when we cut them up top.
10:32 I'm still using that wide tooth portion of my comb.
10:40 Then we use a point cut to get rid of it.
10:43 What that short to long does, you can see that short to long will then help those layers dissipate towards the back.
10:51 Awesome.
10:53 Make sure to ask your questions, you guys.
10:56 I have a question. How come you use your shear at the front layer?
11:01 Or open and close them instead of just kind of like...
11:03 A slide cut?
11:04 Yeah.
11:05 Because a slide cut is super aggressive. It's like a razor.
11:07 It's like we talked about earlier. You're going to start to fray the hair.
11:11 Not that slide cuts are necessarily bad, but when you're dealing with long hair, health is the number one factor.
11:17 I like to do whatever I can to maintain pure health of the hair for my client.
11:25 So yeah, so right there just ends up being just that tiny little tip of the back that comes off.
11:32 Because that angle has to carry on.
11:34 So the angle still goes up or like I like to say, like a concave shape inside your long layers.
11:44 I'm shorter than you, so it's hard.
11:47 Her hair is long. It's hard for my arms.
11:49 Listen, my arms basically, my knuckles break the ground when I walk, and so the fact that her hair must be pretty long.
11:59 So just yeah, taking off that corner like that.
12:02 We're going to work these same sections all the way through the back, and then we will dry her hair, style it,
12:09 and you guys will get to see the finished look when we come back and cut the lava.
12:13 Yeah, guys, we are seeing a little bit.
12:15 We will finish her off, and then there's even more awesome education coming with Lanza,
12:19 so tune back in, and we'll check in a little bit, okay?
12:22 See ya.