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00:00 Hi everyone, Gerard Scarpacci here, Hairbrain co-founder.
00:05 Super excited to bring you this next HB Live with one of my favorite hair cutters of the
00:09 moment, Jane Matthews from Ito Salon in San Francisco.
00:14 You may have seen her work on Instagram with Ito Salon and Jane Ito.
00:19 I love her aesthetic and the way that she works so beautifully with the razor.
00:23 She was a guest of ours last night at the ISSE teach-in that we had and we're here this
00:27 weekend at ISSE in Long Beach and we're bringing you all these great education.
00:33 Thank you so much for everyone who's been coming up and saying hello.
00:36 Now Jane, we're super excited to see this technique that's rocking social media, your
00:40 beautiful way of working with the razor.
00:43 Take it away and tell us what you've got going on.
00:45 Thank you.
00:46 Well, we have long, thick, wavy hair that has been straightened out by all the weight
00:54 and I am removing weight and cutting in layers around her face to give her kind of a 70s
01:03 cowgirl look.
01:04 So is that kind of your aesthetic?
01:06 I like the way you just said that because whenever I see the work that you guys put
01:09 out, it's definitely got a certain French, boho, 70s cowgirl.
01:14 Are those words all working for you?
01:17 Right now they are for sure.
01:19 I love that feeling at the moment.
01:21 Actually, I've always kind of loved that feeling.
01:25 But yeah, I had a vintage stack of old Playboys from the 1960s and I was studying the hair
01:33 a few years ago and I got really inspired and excited.
01:37 Started taking pictures of my clients and that's how that started.
01:44 So Jane, tell us a little bit about your kind of romance with the razor.
01:48 Why is that a tool that you use so often?
01:52 Well, I started cutting hair in high school before I ever went to beauty school and the
01:58 way that I would cut the hair is just kind of visually remove hair where it would look
02:03 good.
02:04 We were Punk Rock New Wavers and we just kind of cut it where we wanted it to sit and then
02:10 I learned technical hair cutting and it kind of felt paint by numbers to me.
02:14 And when I picked up a razor, I felt like I was returning to my roots.
02:17 It's interesting that you bring that up because there's this, I don't want to say it's a battle,
02:21 but it's an ongoing dialogue in hair cutting about constructivism and deconstructivism.
02:27 You know, constructivism if you think of geometric hair cutting and building shape and line and
02:32 angles and corners.
02:33 And then as you said, kind of deconstructive where it's about taking away.
02:37 Like you're looking at it and saying this part's too heavy, I don't like the way this
02:40 is moving.
02:41 You can be very precise doing both of those things, but it's a different design.
02:45 Yep.
02:46 Yeah, it's kind of, I always think of it as kind of like cutting, carving into a bonsai
02:51 tree.
02:52 You sort of carve away and what is left is left.
02:55 It's their own little natural shape.
02:57 It has a little bit more flow and a little bit more movement and a little bit more grit.
03:03 Kind of like they don't need a haircut for eight months after.
03:06 So for those of you just joining us, I'm Gerard Scarpacci, co-founder of the Hairbrain Community.
03:11 I'm here with Jane Matthews, who's a hairdresser and a salon owner from San Francisco at Edo
03:16 Salon Gallery.
03:17 This is her model, Julia.
03:19 Say hi, Julia.
03:20 Hi.
03:21 Julia's having a beautiful transformation.
03:22 Super excited to have her haircut with Jane.
03:24 I think you guys connected on social media.
03:25 Yes, we did.
03:26 And it's a big, big opportunity since Jane was in town for the ISSE teach-in that we
03:31 held last night.
03:32 And we're here in our prep room backstage and just having some fun.
03:36 So again, Jane, explain the technique, the sectioning and the way that you comb it.
03:40 Any tips that you can give to someone who wants to try this?
03:43 Yeah, so the technique is I'm just framing her face, taking little sections and carving
03:50 it away the way I want it to sit.
03:53 So if I want it to sit kind of like a Bardot bang and frame her face and her cheekbone,
03:58 then I'm going to carve it along like that, just going with the direction that I want
04:03 the hair to sit.
04:04 And then each section I'm bringing above and over, I'm just kind of letting it fall where
04:09 it does and cutting it where I want it to sit.
04:12 It's really, really, really visual rather than technical, I think.
04:17 But you definitely have a guideline underneath there.
04:19 It's kind of stuck to the hair.
04:21 For sure.
04:22 Yep.
04:23 And when you razor, do you pretty much primarily work on damp or wet hair?
04:25 I do.
04:27 Sometimes I will cut dry hair with a razor and it sort of just depends on how healthy
04:33 the hair is and whether...
04:37 I can just...
04:38 I'm so in tune with my razor.
04:39 I can tell that if I carve with the razor, it's going to fuzz the hair or is it going
04:44 to slice?
04:45 You know, as someone who personally loves the razor as well and cuts with it very often,
04:48 when I try to explain it to some people, I tell them, "Think of it like bleach.
04:53 It's a super powerful thing that can be super transformative on the hair."
04:57 But if you don't pay attention or you don't understand the volume...
05:01 Like if you just say, "I'm going to slap on some 40 volume and leave for an hour and come
05:03 back and see what happens," we know that bad things are going to happen.
05:07 And it's the same with the razor.
05:09 You got to know when to use 10 volume, when to be gentle, when to rinse it off quickly.
05:14 You have to really pay attention to every stroke.
05:16 Yes.
05:17 And I'm using a lot of tension with my fingers and a very light, gentle stroke with my hand.
05:23 And so I'm getting the movement I want, but also a clean cut.
05:28 Float like a butterfly, sting like a bee.
05:30 That's right.
05:31 So tell us a little bit about...
05:34 First of all, I want to give a shout out to Zack Snyder, who's one of our great community
05:38 members.
05:39 And he said he recently stumbled upon your Instagram, loves your work.
05:42 So we're glad we can bring this to you, Zack, because we feel the same about Jane and her
05:46 whole team.
05:47 Thank you, Zack.
05:48 Tell us a little bit about your salon in San Francisco, about Ito Salon Gallery.
05:53 Yeah.
05:54 So I opened Ito in 1998 with my best friend, Cree.
05:58 We still own it together, so it's been 19 years.
06:01 Well, that is a whole other story.
06:02 To have a business partnership in a salon for 19 years, that's amazing.
06:07 So you guys must really complete each other.
06:09 We complete each other.
06:10 We love each other.
06:12 And she's been here with me all weekend.
06:14 And we opened the doors because there was nothing really that felt boutique and small,
06:21 but also bohemian and interesting.
06:23 It felt like the hair industry was sort of dirty punk rock cheap or fancy sassoon, downtown
06:31 chic.
06:34 And there was nothing really in between or just different, kind of just boutique and
06:41 vintagey and cool.
06:42 Just real cool girl.
06:43 Yeah.
06:44 And so I just wasn't feeling like I fit in.
06:46 And we saw this little church for rent, and we thought, well, I rent my chair.
06:50 So it's an old church.
06:51 It's an old church.
06:52 Well, that's cool.
06:53 Well, it's a storefront, but a church was in it.
06:56 And we just sort of thought, well, we'll have it for a couple years and see how it goes.
07:00 We put an art gallery on the walls.
07:02 I snuck into my first Bumble and Bumble class six months after we opened.
07:06 Just somebody invited me, and I didn't realize I was supposed to lie and say I was with another
07:10 salon.
07:11 And I showed up and told them the truth, and they let me stay.
07:14 So did that play a big impact on you, the Bumble and Bumble movement?
07:18 You know, I know when people think of Bumble now, a lot of people think of a product.
07:21 It's a global product.
07:22 But it really was a salon and an incredible hairdressing culture.
07:26 Yep, that's right.
07:27 That really, for me, was a revolution equal to the Vidal Sassoon revolution.
07:31 Yes.
07:32 It was like a second revolution.
07:33 For me as well.
07:35 Yeah, the original art directors there, Howard and Raymond, I took some early classes with
07:43 Raymond who really set me free to kind of look and remove and create the shape I wanted.
07:50 I think a lot of people consider him one of the best hairdressers of the generation.
07:53 Of all time.
07:54 Yeah, without a doubt.
07:55 Or of that generation, yeah.
07:56 So we have some love coming in.
07:57 I want to give some shout-outs.
07:58 Thank you.
07:59 I want to give a shout-out to Jane Sesto, who's a long-time community member.
08:01 I think she was happy to hear about your 19-year business relationship with your partner.
08:07 Claire Cross, she loves your work.
08:09 She's watching from London.
08:10 Judith McGregor says, "Hi, Jane.
08:11 You have the most inspiring, lovely team."
08:15 Hi, Judith.
08:16 Samantha Smith, we are holding a show in Illinois.
08:19 We're going to be on March 12th.
08:20 We have a teach-in at the Park West in Chicago.
08:24 So Hairbrain will be coming to Chicago, Illinois very soon.
08:28 And a little more, one of your team members, Jordan, she loves working at Edo.
08:32 Hi, Jordan.
08:33 Carmen Pratt loves razor cuts.
08:35 And that's enough of the shout-outs for now.
08:37 Guys, I'm Gerard Scarpacci.
08:38 I'm, as someone lovingly told me today, the guy with the phone.
08:42 So if you have any questions for Jane, technical or about her aesthetic, please share them
08:47 and I'll ask them to Jane for you.
08:51 So how's the haircut progressing?
08:52 Catch us up on what's happening.
08:53 Yeah.
08:54 I'm just sort of framing her face, working it out, removing the weight, watching as her
09:01 natural waves pop out.
09:03 Did some little bits around the face.
09:05 When she puts her hair up, it looks super sexy.
09:08 I brought it kind of around and sort of starting to look at the length and see where it's going
09:12 to be really beautiful in her face.
09:16 So here's a real practical question that comes up a lot when teaching people about straight
09:19 razoring.
09:20 It's coming in from Sarah Hawkins.
09:22 How do you prevent cutting yourself?
09:23 I don't.
09:24 I cut myself off.
09:25 Band-Aids, lots of them.
09:29 I think the more that you use the razor, the more careful you become, the more confident
09:36 you become.
09:37 It's funny.
09:38 At this point, I cut myself with scissors more than I do a razor.
09:41 I absolutely do cut myself more.
09:43 Now I notice you are doing some things that are important.
09:45 The way you lock the blade with your pointer finger here, that prevents a lot of the cuts
09:50 that would happen during trimming.
09:52 So I call that the lock and load.
09:54 The lock and load, yeah.
09:55 Locking the blade and loading the comb in.
09:57 Yeah.
09:58 That can make a huge difference.
10:00 So again, lots of people ask about the razor creating frizz in the hair.
10:06 What's your take on that?
10:07 What's your advice?
10:08 You have to make sure that you use the edge of the blade and not the flat of the blade.
10:14 Although I've been using the flat a little bit and the bangs in the middle, and it's
10:16 creating a really sweet little spot.
10:19 If you've got a really fluid stroke and great momentum and you understand pressure, I think
10:23 you can get away with the flat a little.
10:24 You can get away with the flat a little.
10:25 But don't go to town.
10:26 It's like saying, "Could you use 100 volume with that bleach?"
10:30 It's exactly like bleach.
10:31 It's such a good analogy.
10:32 Maybe you could if you really understand the hair and the bleach.
10:35 Maybe.
10:36 But if you're using 100 volume on everyone all the time, there's going to be some lawsuits.
10:40 And that's like using the flat of the blade on a volunteer.
10:42 Yes.
10:43 I would have to agree.
10:45 I think that there's just an edge you have to catch and a tension and just a flow that
10:51 has to happen with the hair texture that you're working with.
10:56 And it becomes a feeling.
10:58 It's kind of like carving with a scissor.
11:00 You can scratch the hair or you can be really beautiful with it.
11:04 It's similar.
11:05 Yes.
11:06 It's called edge cutting.
11:07 Courtney, if you can get a good shot, you can see the way the blade is cutting from
11:10 the side.
11:11 It's literally not shaving the hair.
11:13 If you think about shaving your face or your legs, as I realize most of you don't shave
11:18 your face, it's not flat down the surface.
11:21 It's coming across like hitting notes instead of cords.
11:24 Here, this should be a good shot where you can see.
11:27 So it's like cutting with one scissor blade and then that movement of creating the separation.
11:34 So thank you for those great questions and very important to understand.
11:37 Our good buddy Milo, who's been featured on our HB Lives many times, wants to know about
11:42 your blow-drying style.
11:43 Do you like to do this finished with a round brush or are you much more of a hand dryer?
11:47 I'm a hand dryer and a diffuser.
11:50 Surprising.
11:51 Not really.
11:53 I actually have never properly learned how to use a round brush, although I bought one
11:58 today and I'm planning on it because I think everyone should know how.
12:01 I just never had that clientele that's the round brush clientele.
12:06 But that looks so beautiful, hand dried, manipulated, dried natural, worn dirty, or with a diffuser.
12:18 Dried natural, worn dirty.
12:20 Sounds like a great ad campaign.
12:23 Let's do that.
12:24 Stop shampooing, don't put anything in it, just let it go, let it be dirty.
12:30 I really like to work with salt spray.
12:32 Lots of salt spray in the roots is my favorite product.
12:34 Eau Naturelle.
12:36 Eau Naturelle.
12:38 Great question from Ray Steele.
12:40 Ray Steele wants to know, Jane, if you're offering any classes.
12:44 Here I am.
12:46 This is one of them, yeah?
12:49 We definitely need to get some stuff going on in San Francisco.
12:51 I'd love to come up and work with you.
12:52 We would love to have you.
12:53 Do a class together.
12:54 We would love to have you.
12:55 What are some of your favorite products?
12:57 What are you guys using in the salon?
13:00 That's coming in from Julia Pack.
13:04 How do I say this gently?
13:06 I have been a hairstylist for a very long time and I got extremely sensitive to perfumes
13:13 and toxins in products.
13:14 So I personally have been using the Hair Story products because they seem to be extremely
13:22 gentle on the perfumes and the toxins, yet still work really well.
13:28 And I also like using Rawa products because they're really natural and I've learned to
13:34 work with them.
13:35 Yes, natural sometimes doesn't work as quickly, but if you can manipulate it into the hair
13:40 and really work with it, for me, it works great.
13:44 So my favorite combo ever is salt spray in the roots with some kind of yummy cream on
13:49 the ends.
13:50 I think you just created a new product, yummy cream.
13:53 Yummy cream.
13:54 I see it happening now.
13:55 Ito Salon Products, yummy cream.
13:58 We also work with DaViness.
13:59 We like DaViness.
14:00 What was the other one?
14:01 DaViness.
14:02 Dirty girl.
14:03 Dirty girl.
14:04 Dirty girl hair.
14:05 Shampoo and yummy cream.
14:06 Are you going to sell my new product?
14:08 You know me, I'm an entrepreneur.
14:13 So it looks like you're moving into the back.
14:14 So you layered everything by bringing it to the front and really carved around the face.
14:20 And I removed most of the length and I missed one tiny little tail, which I'm now going
14:24 to knock off.
14:25 I usually like to do the length almost last.
14:30 This time I'm doing it halfway through because I'm removing a little bit more length than
14:33 usual.
14:34 It's over-directed away from the center back, so it left a little bit.
14:37 It would be like the longest layer and the longest part of the cut.
14:40 Yep.
14:41 It kind of goes from short to long, and then I take it short here.
14:45 So most of the length actually is kind of in the ... It's sort of short to long and
14:49 short to long, and then there's kind of an interior there that's left long.
14:52 I don't know if that makes any sense.
14:54 That absolutely makes sense.
14:56 Over-directed forward and almost up to the head.
14:59 And then over-directed back.
15:01 Yep.
15:02 And I think, Christine Moranto, it can create a V-shape in the back.
15:05 I think here you're kind of taking away some of that.
15:07 I'm not sticking with the V-shape.
15:10 I wanted a little more square.
15:11 If you worked all the way to the ends and just left it, it would have kind of this long,
15:15 oblong shape.
15:16 It would have a long ... Yeah.
15:17 I'm not going for that right now.
15:21 Basic question coming in from Jov Tober, who's also a community member, always watching.
15:26 Do you go strictly by feel, or is there a guideline here?
15:30 I actually set in the guideline when I was in the front of the hair.
15:34 I saw where her hair would look beautiful and pictured it a little shorter and wavier,
15:40 and cut the hair there.
15:41 And I'm bringing it to the back, and I'm matching it now.
15:43 So I'm going with a visual guideline, but it is actual guideline.
15:47 So kind of where the frame around the face ended, you bring that to the back, and that's
15:51 visual.
15:52 But throughout the haircut in general, there's always a guideline.
15:54 Yeah.
15:55 Except maybe when you're just removing weight.
15:57 Actually, with the razor, there is so much fluidity in the lines that my guideline is
16:04 sometimes seen and it's sometimes remembered.
16:07 Yeah.
16:08 I call it a reference, not a guideline.
16:09 It's a reference, not a guide.
16:11 Thank you, Gerard.
16:13 Amber Switzer, you know what?
16:14 You can use a guarded razor, of course.
16:16 We try not to be kind of snobby about it.
16:18 Absolutely.
16:19 The beauty of an unguarded razor, Amber, is it's just sharper.
16:21 It's more responsive and more sensitive.
16:23 But if for any reason you need to use a guard, even this type of razor, there's a guard that
16:27 slips right over it.
16:29 I think you can see that as long as you've got a fresh blade in there, that's what matters
16:35 the most.
16:36 Jane, do you have a name for this technique?
16:40 Barb Murray is wondering if you have a name for the haircut.
16:44 No.
16:45 Fair enough.
16:46 Good answer.
16:47 Sorry.
16:48 It's the Julia.
16:49 Yeah, it's the Julia.
16:50 It's the Julia.
16:51 I mean, honestly, I do have people come in and say, "I want one of your razor cut shags
16:55 with bangs."
16:59 That is a common client name for it.
17:01 Okay, great technical question coming in from Michelle Sanford.
17:04 Thanks for tuning in, Michelle.
17:06 She's wondering how long you recommend your clients go between haircuts.
17:09 Eight months.
17:10 Eight months.
17:11 So, yeah, you literally must have a huge clientele to stay busy.
17:16 I have a huge clientele.
17:17 Yeah.
17:18 So, I guess after 19 years in the same location with a great reputation, that'll do it.
17:24 Or Instagram.
17:25 Or Instagram.
17:26 So, how has that helped you build your business?
17:29 Because I know, obviously, a lot of us have discovered you there.
17:33 Yep.
17:34 And how is that working for you?
17:35 Mind-blowing.
17:36 I'm shocked.
17:37 I had no ... I'm shocked and just ... I'm shocked.
17:43 It's ... I didn't ...
17:44 Pleasantly surprised.
17:45 I'm pleasantly surprised.
17:47 I was just trying to stay relevant.
17:49 And I took a before and after photo after a class I took one time.
17:52 And I was like, "Oh, wow.
17:53 I can really see what I did.
17:54 And boy, did I cut those bangs too short."
17:57 And I started taking before and after photos really for my own reference.
17:59 And the next thing I knew, I was popping them up on the Instagram and something magical
18:04 happened.
18:05 So, let's talk about that.
18:06 Because, I mean, you're definitely putting some hours and time in.
18:08 Are you doing it all yourself?
18:10 Do you have a team member?
18:11 Because between you, your own personal, Jane.
18:15 Is Jane underscore at ... Is Jane underscore Edo Salon?
18:18 Jane underscore Edo Salon.
18:19 Edo Salon.
18:20 You're putting up a few pictures a day, plus then the salon.
18:23 So is that you or is it a team member?
18:26 I know you're doing a lot of the hair cutting, but what about the actual post-it?
18:28 Guess what?
18:29 I run both feeds by myself.
18:31 Yeah.
18:32 I know all about that.
18:33 Not anymore, now that we have Courtney and Kelly, but yeah.
18:37 I run both feeds by myself and it takes a lot of obsession and excitement.
18:46 And just recently, I took it down to one post a day.
18:50 Yeah.
18:51 I mean, if that post is powerful and getting lots of engagement, then that's what counts.
18:57 And then you're getting tons of messages on there and booking people directly through
19:00 Instagram.
19:01 Tons.
19:02 Yeah.
19:03 So I've been traveling and working a little bit and I book my travel clients through Instagram.
19:09 I book my San Francisco clients through my salon.
19:12 Cool.
19:13 Hey, Tasha.
19:14 Great, great having you last night.
19:15 Our buddy, Tasha Judson, she says hi.
19:17 Hi, Tasha.
19:18 Marina Lantos, who's another one of our friends and a big part of doing HB Lives.
19:23 She wants to know who takes the pictures for the salon feed?
19:26 Do you do all the photos yourself?
19:28 The stylists do.
19:29 Yeah.
19:30 Do you do your own as well?
19:31 I do my own.
19:32 Okay, so I can see you're coming in to kind of do some long layers.
19:35 I really want you to try to explain this as best you can.
19:37 Okay.
19:38 Because we always get questions about how to elevate and do longer layers like this
19:41 with a razor.
19:43 Okay, so I'm pulling up a little tiny section as a guide from the sides of the hair, which
19:50 is right there.
19:52 I'm holding it straight up.
19:54 In my humble opinion, to do this haircut, I want really soft, melty, short layers going
20:00 into length without removing a ton of the weight and ending up with skinny length.
20:05 So the way that I do that is I take a little tiny, messy football section right here, like
20:14 a little, little football, and I hold it straight up or forward.
20:19 If their hair is incredibly thin, I hold it forward and carve it.
20:23 That'll keep more weight towards the perimeter?
20:24 That'll keep all the weight.
20:25 Yeah, it's just like, it becomes just like a little bit on the top.
20:28 This is the thing that makes it sort of 60s looking.
20:35 Hold it straight up.
20:36 A little bouffant in the crown.
20:37 Yeah, just a little bouffant in the crown.
20:38 I'm kind of going for a real vintage look here, so I'm going to start pretty short.
20:43 Are you letting your hand slide up a little bit to increase the length of the layers?
20:50 Yep.
20:51 I only wanted that top layer to be little teeny tiny minuscule.
21:01 So that becomes your central guideline or kind of like a profile guideline.
21:05 You dropped out the face frame, you kind of worked from that and slid through longer and
21:09 longer, but that would probably be like the shortest layer of the cut.
21:12 That's the shortest layer of the cut besides the bangs.
21:14 Yep.
21:15 First the bangs are the shortest layer of the cut and then the crown.
21:18 It gives it that certain zhuzh in the crown.
21:21 It gives it that zhuzh at the crown.
21:23 It's the money spot for sure.
21:27 And then when I take a photo, I really like to accentuate the money spot.
21:34 So back to some of that.
21:36 You know, over the years, you know, being at the bridge between hairdressing and Instagram,
21:41 we've heard lots of people say, "Well, I don't know if I could photograph my clients."
21:46 Almost everything you're posting, those are your clients, right?
21:47 Those are all clients, paying clients.
21:48 So how do you go about it?
21:50 What do you say to them?
21:51 I, well, these days people come in, sit down and go, they're like, "And where's my picture?"
21:56 They're all excited, right?
21:57 It's funny, that's what I said.
21:58 Everybody wants their 15 minutes of fame.
22:01 Yep.
22:02 But there is a time when people come and they sit down and they say, "I've decided I want
22:06 bangs and I'm really nervous.
22:07 I haven't had my hair cut in four years and I'm really excited."
22:12 And I say, "Are you comfortable having your picture taken?"
22:15 And you're welcome to say no.
22:16 And I would say one out of every five times they say no.
22:20 They're not comfortable and I don't take their photo.
22:23 So you just have a discussion just like anything else.
22:25 Yeah.
22:26 And if they're comfortable, I bring them on over and I take a before photo.
22:29 I do their hair, I bring them on over and I take an after photo.
22:33 And I would say, I post 50% of them.
22:37 I say, "This isn't always to be posted," or I might post it later.
22:40 Sometimes I save them for six months and then I find them on my phone and I'm like, "Oh,
22:44 that one's good actually.
22:45 I thought it was crap, but it actually was great.
22:47 I post it."
22:48 So back to the technical.
22:49 You're working.
22:50 That football section's getting larger and larger.
22:51 Yeah, so it's getting larger and larger.
22:53 Over-directed all towards the center?
22:55 All toward the center, over-directed.
22:56 Now, can we just get a look at how you turn your razor around?
22:58 I sometimes call that backhand razoring.
23:00 Uh-huh.
23:01 The way you've turned.
23:02 I've turned it.
23:03 To cut upward.
23:04 To cut upward.
23:05 Yeah.
23:06 Yep.
23:07 I think that can sometimes be tricky for people to grasp.
23:10 Yeah.
23:11 So if we watch Jane, she's holding everything the way she normally would, but then she just
23:14 kind of brings her elbow up to the ceiling and still keeps the blade very much on the
23:17 edge.
23:18 Okay.
23:19 Because if you start shaving at this point, it's not going to be comfortable for anyone.
23:24 So really still getting on the edge.
23:26 Sometimes the hair tangles.
23:29 This is where lock and load becomes so important because if you're pulling out those tangles.
23:33 Oh yeah, it's so tight.
23:34 I got my razor in control when it's in my hand and I'm not cutting.
23:39 It's not down.
23:40 Everything turning around and again, still going across the hair.
23:45 Sometimes I'll check it on the other side, see how it looks.
23:55 Just checking it all out.
23:56 Feeling lighter, Julia?
23:57 Much lighter.
23:58 You have beautiful hair, beautiful texture.
24:00 We know it's going to bring out a lot of wave.
24:02 So do you find that literally when you learn to razor really well, you can almost bring
24:08 out wave in everyone's hair, almost everyone has wave.
24:11 Almost everyone's hair.
24:12 I did try it in my own hair and sadly.
24:15 Not so much.
24:16 Not so much.
24:17 Yeah.
24:18 But almost everyone's hair, I feel like I can bring out a lot of wave.
24:22 Do you find that's because it just like makes the ends lighter than the roots, just kind
24:26 of frees up that movement?
24:29 Yeah.
24:30 So many, many times when I'm razor cutting, I'll lay the shape in, but I don't want the
24:36 ends to be really piecey and so I'll actually notch out weight, but have a more strong yet
24:42 layered look.
24:43 So the ends don't have to be thin.
24:44 The ends don't have to be thin.
24:46 Sometimes the weight removal is much closer to the scalp with certain hair types.
24:54 Thanks Christine for the love.
24:56 Thanks for watching and yeah, you can rewatch these.
24:58 So for those of you that maybe don't know, with all these Hairbrain live videos and God,
25:03 we've done over 200 now in the past two days, I think we've done at least five because we
25:07 have so many great educators here.
25:09 You can go back at any time to the Facebook, Hairbrain Facebook fan page, click on the
25:14 video button.
25:15 We try to categorize them and you can watch, you can watch tons and tons of videos.
25:19 And thanks to everyone who's come up to us at the show to thank us for sharing this education
25:24 and all the educators who donated their time to share with our fellow hairdressers.
25:29 We're all just working together to try to elevate the craft.
25:31 So I'm coming toward the end of my haircut and I'm just realizing that I want to remove
25:39 a little bit of weight in the back.
25:44 So a little lower down like where the outline is.
25:47 Yeah, kind of underneath this nice little thing.
25:50 I don't want a big blanket of hair hanging down.
25:52 I'm not wanting to make the ends much skinnier.
25:56 I'm just wanting to kind of flow it by removing some weight.
25:59 So tuck your chin all the way down.
26:01 Here's a great, great question we love to hear about from everyone.
26:03 Amber Switzer is wondering what inspired you to be a hairstylist?
26:08 Oh, I did a haircut with my ceramicist mom and myself when I was 11 years old and she
26:14 was doing it and I had the mirror and I was art directing it and she was cutting it and
26:18 it just came out so cool.
26:20 The tail and some steps and I was like, that's it.
26:24 I found my career.
26:25 12 years old, you fell in love with hairdressing.
26:28 11.
26:29 Did you see that?
26:30 That was a little weight removal that was way high up.
26:36 Yeah, let's see that again.
26:38 It's right on this side now.
26:39 And the purpose of this?
26:41 I'm just taking out some of this.
26:43 This felt kind of like a blanket and I wanted it a little looser.
26:47 So it just puts it a few indiscriminate layers in the mix.
26:51 It just collapsed this sort of blanket of hair and made it lighter so that it would
26:55 wave up yet not have any layers in it.
26:58 So Jane, we know on Instagram you've got tons of photos.
27:02 Have you started venturing into doing any video work or do you have anything on YouTube
27:06 showing your?
27:07 I don't.
27:08 People keep asking me.
27:09 Once in a while I will post for sure.
27:12 I post, I'll have my assistant come along.
27:15 I'm really booked at the salon and I'm also a mom of a three-year-old.
27:20 Which we see her cute photos everywhere.
27:22 She's your mini-me, huh?
27:23 She's a mini-me.
27:24 Yeah.
27:25 So my mini-me needs a lot of attention.
27:28 But once in a while I have my assistant come and she'll just video me doing a section.
27:38 So there's sections.
27:39 Let's talk about this.
27:40 So you just twisted that up and just kind of?
27:41 Oh yeah, I was just checking if there's any long hairs I missed.
27:45 That's really just checking.
27:46 Sometimes with the razor it feels really strong and then there's like one long little funky
27:51 hair and feeling it with the fingers I can just sense it.
27:57 Barb Murray loves your glass ring.
27:59 I guess, yeah, that's cute.
28:01 And Nanette is watching.
28:03 Thanks for joining Nanette.
28:04 We always appreciate having you here.
28:06 Here's a question we get a lot.
28:07 It's from Janice Tiffany.
28:10 Being a razor cut, will you still be able to straighten this and would it look good?
28:13 With a round brush.
28:15 Yeah.
28:16 So I mean it's still precise.
28:18 I think maybe it looks like you're just kind of cutting pieces off but there's a little
28:22 form and shape.
28:23 There's a real form and shape.
28:25 And balance is important.
28:26 It's not just like one side's long, one side's short.
28:30 So it would look good straight.
28:32 I think it would look really good straight.
28:34 If she was going to be a person who flat irons her hair, I would probably flat iron it myself
28:41 before she left and make sure that every little cut was super smooth and blended.
28:51 So thanks for viewing.
28:53 We've got tons of people watching now and I just want to say to everyone, thank you
28:56 for tuning in.
28:57 I'm Gerard Scarpacci.
28:58 We're here at the Long Beach show.
29:00 It's called the ISSE show in Long Beach, California.
29:02 We had a huge night last night where we had over 20 educators on stage for what we call
29:06 a teach-in.
29:07 We got Jane up there.
29:08 I reached out to her a few months ago knowing that I wanted her up there.
29:12 And it's not something she normally does.
29:14 She's a salon owner.
29:15 She's a behind-the-chair hairdresser.
29:17 But she said, "Well, I'm willing to try it."
29:20 I said, "We'll take care of you."
29:21 How did the experience go for you?
29:23 It was so special.
29:25 I was up there with two hairdressers I already knew.
29:28 That was my little surprise.
29:29 I didn't know that.
29:30 It was so special.
29:32 And it just felt so good to be with my little hair family.
29:36 It was so exciting and I felt so honored.
29:39 I was just excited.
29:40 It was the most exciting.
29:41 It was the most exciting.
29:42 I don't know.
29:43 Opening my salon was exciting.
29:44 But it was definitely the most glamorous thing I had done, I feel.
29:49 A lot of love.
29:50 A lot of people coming up today to tell me they love the teach-in and your presentation.
29:54 There were a few girls that wanted to come join us here, but I don't think they...
29:57 Our prep room is kind of in the depths of the convention center here.
30:01 We're at a prep room here in the back and just having some fun with Julia who's having
30:06 a beautiful makeover.
30:08 Happy and smiling and bringing out that wave and texture.
30:12 I'm going to grab my salt spray.
30:13 I feel like you got basically the shape in.
30:16 Now we're moving into some styling.
30:17 So tell us about your styling approach.
30:20 So I really like to style the hair almost exactly as I cut it.
30:26 So here's my little football section.
30:29 I like to use a lot of salt spray.
30:33 This one's natural and weird so it foams, but it goes right into the hair once it's
30:38 dry.
30:39 It's just kind of an odd thing the way it foams.
30:40 So here's a general question from Harris Jack.
30:43 What do you feel are some of the benefits of using the razor?
30:46 I'm sure you use the scissor.
30:47 I think a lot of times people think razor cut is we only use the razor.
30:50 I'm sure you use the scissor often as well.
30:52 Why do you sometimes choose the razor?
30:54 What are the benefits of razor cutting for you?
30:56 I like the fluidity and the kind of lived in beautiful soft texture that the razor gives.
31:04 Simple enough.
31:05 Simple enough.
31:06 You know, sometimes it's like, you know, the difference between why would you use a crayon
31:10 versus a ballpoint pen?
31:12 Absolutely.
31:13 You just get this different effect.
31:14 Or a watercolor paintbrush.
31:18 And any tool can be used poorly.
31:20 You know, people might say, hey, the razor damages the hair.
31:23 I got a bad razor cut.
31:24 I always say, did you ever get a bad scissor cut?
31:26 That's what I say too.
31:27 And then essentially they say yes.
31:28 And I'm like, well, how come you never heard?
31:32 You don't hate the scissor.
31:33 Don't hate the tool.
31:34 Hate the hairdresser.
31:35 He did a bad job.
31:39 So again, lots of people asking what was that spray?
31:41 Can we show it to the camera?
31:42 This was Rawa spray.
31:45 It's a totally organic salt spray.
31:48 Smells wonderful.
31:49 Sorry.
31:50 It does smell good.
31:51 It's a salt spray.
31:52 It comes out kind of weird and foamy.
31:54 But when it dries, any salt spray will do.
31:56 I just love salt spray for getting that grit and body here to get that kind of sexy bump
32:03 right there.
32:04 So I use a lot of it.
32:08 And this one's weird because it foams, but the foam is gone now.
32:10 I just panicked for a second.
32:11 I was like, oh, God.
32:12 Here we go.
32:14 And I think any of them do.
32:17 Bumble and bumble was, of course, the first salt spray I ever used.
32:20 I really love the daveness salt spray.
32:22 I pop a lot of it in the roots.
32:27 I love a little bit in the fringe for sure.
32:31 So we had a great comment here from Susan Eyster.
32:37 She loves how your hands are in the hair.
32:38 It's not something you often see in teaching.
32:40 And she really loves the way that you have the sense of the feel to access the cut.
32:47 And I agree.
32:48 I find that if you're going to work this type of styling, it's all about your hands.
32:52 Your hands are like your brush right now.
32:54 You're prepping them.
32:55 Yeah, yeah, yeah.
32:56 Yeah.
32:57 Yeah.
32:58 A lot of hand styling.
32:59 Yeah.
33:00 I don't even really use a brush.
33:01 I mean, I didn't even bring a brush today.
33:08 I do use a brush, but I didn't bring one.
33:11 Yeah.
33:12 Thank you.
33:13 I love to have my hands in the hair, touching the head.
33:16 Yeah, it was interesting.
33:17 You know, Jane was talking about last night.
33:18 She was on stage with Kobe, Alcantar, and Wes Sharpton.
33:22 These guys all have some history together.
33:25 And it was just amazing.
33:26 I love all of you guys, but I really enjoyed watching Wes because he cut the hair in about
33:30 eight minutes and spent 20 minutes playing with it, moving it around and detailing it,
33:35 which I think sometimes is my favorite way to see haircuts happen.
33:38 Because if you have such a clear idea of what you're doing, you just execute it.
33:42 And then you can kind of refine and refine and refine.
33:46 Yep.
33:47 Agreed.
33:48 And it's fun to sort of check your client out.
33:54 If I had a mirror, I'd be looking at her in the mirror and saying, "Do I think she looks
33:58 pretty?"
33:59 Yeah, that's a tough thing.
34:00 Of course, we're not under perfect circumstances here.
34:01 That's okay.
34:02 We're in a prep room, in a backstage.
34:03 We've got bar curtains.
34:04 It's awesome.
34:05 But hopefully, if you're out there and you're passionate about education, you're getting
34:09 a lot of the message here.
34:10 For sure.
34:11 I can also stand in front of her and see how I feel.
34:18 Kind of feel it through.
34:28 One side is for sure more dense and for sure longer, which happens.
34:33 And it's cool.
34:35 I kind of believe in balance, not even.
34:39 Oh, here's another trick.
34:41 I like to remove some weight from underneath the bang section.
34:50 So I'm not trying to get the ends more piecey.
34:53 I'm trying to collapse this bubble that can happen right here when there's too much.
35:06 So your shape is all in.
35:07 You even put the product in and now you're just kind of defining, refining, personalizing.
35:11 Through this face, we can see your beautiful face now and your smile.
35:16 Looking great.
35:17 Is that important for you to check it tucked?
35:30 It is for me, yeah.
35:31 Some super technical hair cutters, they would never think to do that because they were thinking
35:35 about the corners and the angles, but I notice those who work a lot more free form do a lot
35:40 of tucking and twisting.
35:41 Yeah, because the hair gets tucked.
35:45 You know, she's a human and I want to see what her hair is going to look like when she
35:49 touches it herself.
35:50 When you're in the salon, how long do you book for appointments?
36:04 An hour.
36:05 An hour.
36:06 And you make the most of that time, obviously.
36:11 I have an assistant and often I have the assistant dry the hair with her hands, just kind of
36:20 up here and doing this, and then I come along and do the finish.
36:25 And a lot of time I'm consulting the next person while that's happening.
36:28 Just kind of keeping it rolling all the time.
36:30 Before taking a photo of the next person, the before of the next person.
36:35 What is it like, you know, if someone wanted to come work with you in San Francisco, and
36:41 so you mentioned you have assistants, do you train them personally?
36:44 What's the progress for them to become stylists?
36:47 Yeah, so we had a woman that worked at Bumble and Bumble for many years and she helped me
36:52 write our entire assistant program.
36:54 And it kind of, the cutting was almost, the basic cutting program is almost exactly their
37:02 cutting program.
37:04 Which is just teaching the razor, teaching a bob with the razor, teaching a long layer
37:07 with the razor, bringing it into shags.
37:12 And people are done when they're done.
37:14 We kind of have a practice day and we check the work.
37:17 We do one-on-one classes.
37:19 I teach them, we all teach them.
37:22 And then when the person's done, it's always really obvious.
37:27 Something clicks and they're ready.
37:29 We put them on the floor.
37:34 About how many staff members do you have nowadays?
37:40 20?
37:41 Wow, that's great.
37:44 So you're growing.
37:47 Yeah.
37:48 Any thoughts of expanding or going to different cities?
37:55 You know, that's always the million dollar question.
37:59 Like literally the million dollar question.
38:02 I'm just kidding.
38:03 I don't know.
38:04 I don't know.
38:05 If anybody has a million dollars, then they answer the question.
38:08 Who's investing?
38:09 Mercedes Ortiz is wondering if you ever let stylists come and visit and shadow in your
38:13 salon.
38:14 So I just did for the first time.
38:15 I had a girl come from Canada and I taught her a one-on-one class.
38:20 And then she did a shag model.
38:23 She did the same beautiful haircut on this gorgeous, gorgeous girl.
38:32 And then she stayed and assisted me for the day.
38:35 That's fun.
38:36 If anyone else was interested in that, should they just leave you a message maybe on Instagram?
38:39 Sure.
38:40 So if anyone out there is interested in one-on-one training or coming to your salon, now you're
38:44 going to be flooded with questions.
38:45 I'm like, "Oh, shit."
38:46 Sorry.
38:47 Oops.
38:48 Oops.
38:49 Okay.
38:50 I am now going to take over with a diffuser.
38:57 So if you will scooch down.
38:59 I'll get your towel.
39:00 We're going to put a little towel behind your neck.
39:03 We're backstage, so we're doing a little makeshift action here.
39:05 Yeah, for those of you just joining us, we're at the ISSC Hair Show.
39:09 This is our little backstage prep room.
39:11 Sorry that we're not in our normal studio or salon, but we didn't want to miss this
39:15 opportunity to bring you this incredible education with Jane and her lovely model.
39:19 We're going to do some diffusing.
39:20 This might get a little loud, so we'll try to talk loud, but bear with us.
39:24 I don't think it's going to be on for very long.
39:27 And then we'll be able to see this beautiful finished look.
39:30 Thank you.
39:33 All right, so why do you have her laid back like this?
39:49 What's the benefit?
39:50 I love the volume that I can get and the control to get the shape in, especially this little
39:56 bump right here.
39:57 So the root naturally starts to fall back when it's like that.
39:58 Yeah.
39:59 Blowing that root with volume.
40:00 Yeah.
40:01 Awesome.
40:02 A lot of times lately I've been doing these curly bang shags, and then I have them lean
40:03 forward.
40:04 I kind of like to diffuse it in the direction where I want the most volume.
40:05 So I'm having her lay back because I want the most volume on the top.
40:06 Jane, do you know the name or the brand of that diffuser?
40:07 I don't, but I got it on Amazon for $1.
40:08 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:09 I don't know.
40:10 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:11 I don't know.
40:12 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:13 I don't know.
40:14 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:15 I don't know.
40:16 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:17 I don't know.
40:18 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:39 I don't know.
40:40 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:41 I don't know.
40:42 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:43 I don't know.
40:44 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:45 I don't know.
40:46 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:47 I don't know.
40:48 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:49 I don't know.
40:50 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:51 I don't know.
40:52 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:53 I don't know.
40:54 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:55 I don't know.
40:56 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:57 I don't know.
40:58 I think it's called the Diffuser.
40:59 I don't know.
41:00 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:01 I don't know.
41:02 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:03 I don't know.
41:04 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:05 I don't know.
41:06 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:07 I don't know.
41:08 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:09 I don't know.
41:10 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:11 I don't know.
41:12 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:13 I don't know.
41:14 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:15 I don't know.
41:16 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:17 I don't know.
41:18 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:19 I don't know.
41:20 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:21 I don't know.
41:22 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:23 I don't know.
41:24 I think it's called the Diffuser.
41:52 [APPLAUSE]