• 2 days ago
そ~だったのかンパニー 2025年1月26日 地域の廃材で伝統の帆布に新しい色を
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Transcript
00:00In the past, the city of Hiroshima was famous for its sea transportation, and a lot of ships came to the city.
00:11In this city, a lot of ships were built to be used as a harbour.
00:17However, this proud tradition was pushed down by the low-priced shipyard workers,
00:23and now there is only one shipyard with 10 ships.
00:28Onomichi Shipyard, where the only factory is located,
00:31is now used as a base for work clothes and accessories.
00:43In the meantime, there is a woman who is trying to put a new life into this shipyard.
00:50Ms. Kaori Niisato of Tachibana Textile Research Institute,
00:55who learned to work at Tokyo University of the Arts and was fascinated by the charm of Onomichi Shipyard.
01:01Her challenge is to add a new color to Onomichi Shipyard.
01:09It's more fun when it's difficult.
01:14The shipyard is usually thick and hard to dye, and this natural white is almost all.
01:20The challenge of the company, which tries to get rid of it from the white,
01:24was also said to be impossible from the surroundings.
01:29I've never heard of it, it's too rich, can you eat it like that?
01:36The company's goal is to replace the worthless things disposed of in the area,
01:42and to put a new life into the shipyard.
01:46However, the road is a series of difficulties.
01:49After hitting several walls and trying hundreds of types of waste materials,
01:54we finally arrived at the only place in the world.
02:02How beautifully was this ship dyed by the company?
02:09And why did they dare to stick to the waste materials?
02:16This time, we're going to find out if it was true of the dyeing company,
02:20which puts a new light on the tradition of Onomichi.
02:39Onomichi City, Mukaishima Town, Nantou-bu, Hiroshima Prefecture
02:49The building that remodeled the old house in the corner of this island
02:53is a factory and shop of Tachibana Textile Research Institute.
02:59It's a nice place.
03:02Established in 2009,
03:05Mr. Niisato is currently dyeing the hemp of Onomichi with his five colleagues
03:10to create bags and accessories.
03:16Why did Mr. Niisato want to add a new color to the white Onomichi hemp?
03:26It was when he was a student studying textile at an art university.
03:31When he visited Onomichi, he stepped into a certain place.
03:37It was as if he was guided by destiny.
03:42I was surprised by the oldness of the machine.
03:47The place was a hemp factory in Mukaishima Town that has been operating for 90 years.
03:55Onomichi is a port city and a port city on the north coast of Japan.
04:01That's why the hemp used as a ship's horn was so popular.
04:08Today, the tradition is passed down as a fabric of the factory's work clothes.
04:15Mr. Niisato was not surprised by the existence of this hemp, which was completely different from the textile he had learned.
04:25The biggest shock I had when I saw it was that it was such an old weave and had no color.
04:31I was surprised that it survived with a very simple weave.
04:36When I was in college, I was more into fashion than textile.
04:40I had never designed anything like this before.
04:44It's the latest design.
04:46It's the exact opposite of that.
04:48For decades, it's been woven like this.
04:53The moment I saw it, I thought, this is it.
04:59Mr. Niisato was fascinated by the local tradition.
05:03He started looking for ways to make use of the strong desire to leave Onomichi hemp in its original form.
05:13Mr. Niisato, who was originally fond of nature,
05:17took advantage of the technology of weed dyeing he learned in college and came up with the idea of adding a new color to white hemp.
05:26For this challenge, he decided to move from Tokyo to Mukai Island, where there was no connection.
05:36However, the road was steep.
05:40Because hemp has the characteristic that it is difficult to dye with weed dye.
05:48Hemp is here.
05:51It's strong and very durable.
05:54I think there was a hemp boom when I was a student.
06:01This time, I'm wondering what kind of person he is, as if he was struck by lightning.
06:08The representative of the Tachibana Textile Research Institute, Niisato Kaori, came to the studio.
06:14Niisato, nice to meet you.
06:16Niisato, where were you originally from?
06:21My family was originally from Saitama Prefecture.
06:24Saitama Prefecture?
06:25Yes.
06:26Saitama Prefecture also has its own production.
06:28How about hemp?
06:29Was it close to you?
06:30At first, I couldn't find it at a handicraft store.
06:33It was too thick for ordinary people to sew, so it wasn't on sale.
06:37However, it was on sale for canvas for people who draw pictures at art universities.
06:42I see.
06:43I had never touched it as a material for making things, so it was very fresh.
06:49But that means it will be a partner that will influence your life.
06:54Yes.
06:55Was there any other place where hemp was dyed with weed dye at that time?
06:59It's very difficult to dye.
07:02I've never seen it before.
07:05And it's thick and hard, so thin fabrics are easier to dye in a pot.
07:14So I don't like it as a dyer.
07:17I see.
07:18We don't have that image.
07:20So it must have taken a lot of effort.
07:23Yes, it was a lot of work.
07:26Dyeing hemp with weed dye.
07:28What was so difficult about it?
07:36Mr. Nisato started a dyeing experiment using weeds grown in the area to dye hemp.
07:44But the first wall stood in his way.
07:47What was so difficult about it?
07:51In fact, hemp is difficult to dye with weeds.
07:56That was the difficulty of hemp.
08:03Let's compare it with wool and silk.
08:07When dyed with weed dye, the fibers are well colored and dyed vividly.
08:14But when dyed with the same dye, the color remains faint and thin.
08:23The reason for this difference is the ingredients in the fabric.
08:30Wool and silk contain a lot of protein, which is easy to bind to the dye, so it dyes well.
08:38However, hemp does not contain much protein, so it is difficult to bind to the dye.
08:45In addition, it is difficult to handle the thickness and hardness of hemp, and experts recommend it.
08:53Even a dyeing craftsman avoids hemp.
08:58It's a material that people don't want to do.
09:03Basically, I don't think I'm going to dye hemp.
09:09In short, it's hard to get the right color.
09:13If you focus on the ease of dyeing, you don't want to use hemp.
09:22In the meantime, Mr. Nisato chose a combination of weed dye and hemp.
09:29On the contrary, it's not easy to do what everyone doesn't want to do.
09:35But it's more fun to do it.
09:39It's more difficult, but it's worth doing it.
09:44Oh, you're strong.
09:46There was another big goal.
09:51That is...
09:54All the materials used for dyeing are obtained from waste materials thrown away in the area.
10:00This goal made the challenge even more difficult.
10:06Is there any way to dye hemp beautifully for something worthless in the area?
10:14And why do you try to find new possibilities by looking at the waste materials that everyone has overlooked?
10:25I didn't have the courage to bring something precious to dye it.
10:32I had to throw it away in the first place.
10:38In the background of Mr. Nisato's idea, he lived with his grandmother, who was a war veteran in her childhood, and was taught the spirit of waste.
10:50This teaching is also reflected in everyday life.
10:54All the garbage that comes out of the house or store is used as bait for chickens.
11:03Even if it's something we don't need, it's a great nutrient for chickens.
11:10He incorporated this way of thinking into the textile world,
11:15and challenged hemp dyeing with the idea of finding new values in what can be thrown away and changing it into a resource.
11:26I thought I might be able to extract natural colors by using garbage.
11:33Mr. Nisato was on a difficult path, but the reactions around him were cold.
11:40At times, he was thrown harsh words.
11:45I was like, what is that? I've never heard of it. It's too familiar.
11:50Can I eat it like that?
11:54Mr. Nisato dared to choose a difficult path.
11:58However, this thorough commitment brought a ray of light from the unexpected.
12:06What was that breakthrough?
12:11At the beginning, I had a question while I was talking.
12:19How do you dye hemp products that are colored?
12:26Are they sold in general stores?
12:29I dye them with chemical dye.
12:31I see.
12:32Why red?
12:33If you dye it with a natural dye, it won't be colored at all.
12:39It's quite difficult.
12:41Can I say something?
12:43It's a different story.
12:45It has a lot of colors.
12:47I did my best.
12:48You did your best.
12:50Can you tell what it is?
12:53It's a can of hemp.
12:57Look at this.
12:59There's nothing in it.
13:01It's all dyed.
13:03There are a lot of colors.
13:07I've done about 50 colors of hemp products.
13:13Our regular product is 5 colors.
13:16Have you been dyeing hemp since you were a student?
13:19I didn't do it when I was in college, so I did it by myself.
13:23You didn't do it?
13:24No, I didn't.
13:26Why did you start dyeing hemp?
13:28When you make something, a lot of waste comes out.
13:33It's the same with fashion.
13:36There was a time when I didn't want to make things.
13:39I worked in Tokyo.
13:42I quit making things when I was in college.
13:45I moved to a place where there was no waste.
13:49I met Onomichi again, saw hemp, and decided to make things again.
13:54I thought that if I didn't solve the waste problem next time,
13:58I wouldn't want to make things myself.
14:03I thought that if I made things,
14:06I would be able to solve the waste problem and the problem of society.
14:13I've come to understand you a lot.
14:17I'm sorry. The explanation is long.
14:19That's not true.
14:20You have to be determined to do what you think.
14:26If you don't do that, you won't be able to live.
14:30I realized that I couldn't do that.
14:34Everyone told me that I couldn't do it.
14:37But there was a breakthrough.
14:39Now that I've heard it so far, I want to see it.
14:43What is the breakthrough that led to the success of dyeing hemp?
14:53In order to make natural dye using waste,
14:56Mr. Nisato started looking for things that were thrown away in the area.
15:02The first thing he noticed was the peach field.
15:06In fact, peach production is booming in Onomichi,
15:09and you can see it in various fields during the season.
15:15But he didn't pay attention to the fruit.
15:22He paid attention to the branches and leaves.
15:26As the season passed, the producers selected the branches for the next season,
15:31and they were all discarded.
15:35He carefully boiled these branches, made dye, and repeated the experiment.
15:44The most particular thing was whether it was a material that was easy to dye.
15:51However, as a result of the experiment, he found that the peach branches were hard to dye.
16:01After that, he collected the weeds that could be harvested in the area,
16:06and the weeds that could grow on the roadside,
16:09and repeated the dyeing experiment.
16:13There were more than 200 types of weeds.
16:18He continued to collect data for half a year.
16:21But...
16:26The color of the weeds didn't come out well,
16:29and the color of the peaches was very intense.
16:35He found a material that seemed to be the right one.
16:39But he couldn't find a material that seemed to be the right one, and he was about to give up.
16:44At that time, something suddenly caught his eye.
16:51It was a large amount of ash that was piled up in the corner of a local furniture factory.
16:59He found the wood that was being discarded,
17:01and a spark was about to be born in him.
17:09What kind of wood is this?
17:11It's walnut.
17:13It's a walnut material in Japan.
17:17Walnut is an apricot tree imported from Canada,
17:21and its dark black color is its characteristic.
17:26In this factory, tables and chairs are made using walnuts,
17:31but the weeds and ash that came out at that time were disposed of.
17:39When Mr. Nisato saw this wood, he remembered something.
17:45Walnuts contain a lot of tannin,
17:49and this plays a role in binding the protein and fiber contained in a little bit of hemp.
17:57In other words, walnuts were the best material to dye hemp.
18:04He was convinced that this was the right one,
18:06and he started dyeing it by boiling the chips and husks of walnuts.
18:10As a result,
18:16a vivid gray appeared on the hemp.
18:23It looks like it has a lot of tannin.
18:28But why does hemp dyed with brown wood turn gray?
18:34Actually, there was a secret.
18:40It's iron.
18:45At the end of the dyeing process, the liquid containing iron powder was mixed.
18:51In the dyeing process, it is common to use metal to solidify the color and prevent discoloration.
19:02This iron powder found by Mr. Nisato was a scraper from an iron mill used in a shipyard on the island.
19:10By adding this, the blackness increased and it turned into a unique gray.
19:17In this way, the hemp, which was the only color that could not be produced anywhere else, was completed.
19:29The company's fabric was so laborious, but it was not well-known, and it was hard to reach the apparel makers.
19:38Although the fabric was completed, there was a question of whether there were people who understood Mr. Nisato's particularity and found value in it,
19:46and whether it would become a business.
19:52However, the passionate professionals did not miss it.
19:58At one time, Nakagawa Masashichi Shopping Mall, which was famous nationwide, paid attention to the article of the company.
20:06The shop's philosophy is not just to sell things, but to find value in the traditions and technology of the local area,
20:14the feelings of the craftsmen behind it, and to set an appropriate price.
20:23He was fascinated by the unique article of the company, and decided to sell the original bag in the fall of last year.
20:34Mr. Aono, a designer, said that he sympathized with the company's attitude towards chrysanthemum dyeing.
20:43I think it's something I want to do, so I'd like to buy it.
20:50Of course, it is important to preserve old things as they are,
20:55but I think it's important to find a way to connect the past with the future by identifying what needs to be moved forward and what needs to be renewed.
21:05I think that's where the new way of chrysanthemum dyeing will be.
21:14In this way, the article, which was permeated with Mr. Niisatsu's passion and passion, spread throughout the country and was handed down to many people.
21:26The challenge of bringing new life to the tradition of chrysanthemum dyeing continues to this day.
21:34And the story of chrysanthemum dyeing will continue to be dyed with new colors.
21:42I have data in front of me right now.
21:46When I look at that and then look at this, I'm a little shaky.
21:51When I look at it, I need metal, so I use aluminum to dye it and iron to dye it.
21:58It doesn't matter what kind of metal you use, but in Hiroshima, chrysanthemum dyeing is very popular, so iron was the biggest thing for me.
22:11So when I came here on a trip and saw the chrysanthemum factory, I found iron.
22:15You don't have to break the iron.
22:18That's right.
22:19You can use it as it is.
22:20I'm really grateful for that.
22:22That's true.
22:23Where do you sell your products?
22:26Mainly on our company's website.
22:30Are you mainly selling chrysanthemums?
22:33It's only a small part of it.
22:37Other than that, we sell what other companies ask us to sell.
22:41The main thing is to get the chrysanthemum dye from a good company and make it into a fabric.
22:47If it's an order from a big company, I think it's going to be a lot of orders.
22:52I think it's going to be a lot of work.
22:55It's a lot of work for us and the apparel industry.
23:01There are fewer and fewer factories.
23:05So we put out a user's manual telling us what kind of chrysanthemum dye to use.
23:12Companies that used to do chemical dyeing used that system to make our chrysanthemum dye.
23:21The chrysanthemum dye technology is spreading like wildfire.
23:24It's spreading like wildfire.
23:27Our goal is to reduce waste and spread chrysanthemum dye products to the world.
23:33I hope more and more people will do it.
23:36I hope we can continue to improve our technology.
23:42Mr. Yashima, please tell us about today's lesson.
23:47Today's lesson is...
23:50Make your own philosophy!
23:54I don't think there are many people in the world who are sincere about their philosophy.
24:03What you're doing is not just a dream.
24:09It's something you want to do.
24:11It's something that you want to spread.
24:16I was moved by that.
24:20I'm looking forward to it.
24:22Thank you very much.

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