Glazed chicken rice inspired by Hainanese dish

  • 2 months ago
Discover how to make glazed chicken rice inspired by the classic Hainanese dish. This recipe takes you through the steps to create tender, flavorful chicken with a delicious glaze, served over fragrant rice. Perfect for a comforting and satisfying meal that brings a taste of Hainanese cuisine to your kitchen. Enjoy the blend of savory and sweet flavors in this easy-to-follow recipe.
Transcript
00:00Here's a dish inspired by chicken rice, the national dish of Singapore with Chinese roots.
00:06Chicken rice is poached chicken served with rice that you cook in the resulting poaching
00:10liquid. I like the concept, but I'm not wild about plain poached chicken. I don't like
00:14that slimy skin. I want crispy skin, or a coating of some kind, or both, which is what
00:19I'm doing here.
00:20First step is poach a whole chicken. I don't think I'm doing anything different or weird
00:23here. 3.5 pound bird goes in a big pot, a kilo and a half. It could feed as many as
00:28six people with the rice. A little bit of ginger to flavor the broth. It's gonna get
00:32strained out later, so no need to peel. A few sticks of lemongrass. I love that stuff.
00:37You could use some lime zest instead. About twice as much salt as I'd normally use to
00:41season a bird this size. I need enough salt for the chicken and the broth.
00:44And then just cover that bird in water, and while I'm here, I'll put in a probe thermometer
00:49to the deepest part of the breast. I'll lid that up and turn the heat on high at first
00:53just to get things going, but I don't want to see it bubbling any more than that, which
00:57is to say, hardly bubbling at all. So when it looks like that, I'm gonna lower my heat
01:01to where I can maintain that.
01:03Poaching is just like sous-vide. The water doesn't need to be any hotter than the final
01:06internal temperature you desire on the meat. You just let the chicken slowly come to equilibrium
01:11with the water, and it will be cooked at perfect uniform doneness throughout.
01:15As you can hear, I've been sick, so that smell is very comforting.
01:19While we wait, sliced cucumbers. I've been loving the mini ones lately, but you could
01:22just use one big one. Chicken rice is usually served with an array of garnishes, one being
01:26some raw or maybe blanched cucumber, plain cucumber. Since this is just home cooking,
01:31I don't want to have to make a whole bunch of garnishes. I just want to make one garnish.
01:34So I'm gonna have the cucumbers, but I'm gonna put them with some kind of onion, a shallot
01:37in this case. I thought I had a fresh chili to dice up and put in here, but I couldn't
01:41find it in the fridge.
01:43And then I'm gonna do just a quick pickle on those. A whole bottle of rice vinegar in
01:46there. It's not a waste. I'm gonna reuse that later for my sauce. And a big handful of sugar.
01:50It doesn't matter if it doesn't dissolve at first, it will in the fridge. Since I sliced
01:54that stuff thin, it'll taste pickled by the time the chicken is cooked, which should take
01:58an hour at most.
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02:43So, this chicken, believe it or not, is done. Yes, that's just 150 F in the breast, 65 C,
02:48but pasteurization is a function of temperature and time. 165 F is the temp at which all the
02:54germs die instantly. If you hold them at a lower temperature for a while, it does the
02:58same thing. There's meat pasteurization charts you can find online. I held this at 150 for
03:03at least 10 minutes, which is very easy to do with poaching, because the liquid outside
03:08is basically the same temp as the meat inside. That's why slow pasteurization works so well
03:13with a poaching or sous vide. It's way harder to hold a constant temperature when you're
03:17roasting at 400 or something.
03:19For traditional chicken rice, I think you generally plunge this into ice water. That
03:23gets you a firm, jelly-like texture on the skin. I am among the many Westerners who has
03:28trouble with that very popular texture in Eastern food, so I'm not doing it. I'll just
03:33let that cool while I bring my broth to a full boil. I want to reduce that, concentrate
03:37that flavor as much as I can before I cook my rice in it.
03:41When the chicken is cool enough to handle, I'll break it down into portions. I usually
03:45start by cutting the skin between the legs and the body, and then I just reach in and
03:49dislocate the hip joints. Now I can just put my knife in where that joint used to connect,
03:54cut down, and there's the leg and thigh quarter. Don't be freaked out by the pink — it's
03:58been pasteurized. It's safe. Plus, I'm gonna cook this a second time in the oven, so I
04:01wouldn't want it to be fully done at this stage anyway.
04:04Really easy to separate the leg and the thigh, and for the wings, I like to dislocate that
04:08joint again, mainly just so I can see where I should cut. I want bone-in breast pieces
04:13today, so I'm gonna shave off the backbone. I'm cutting through the rib bones there, which
04:18is easy to do when it's cooked. Hey, you know what we should do with that backbone? We can
04:21get a lot of flavor out of that before that broth is done reducing.
04:24Now I'm gonna split the breast down the middle, through the breastbone. Might take a little
04:27force. And then I usually like to cut each side of the breast in half as well, right
04:31through the bones. That just gets you a portion size closer to the legs and the thighs. I
04:35swear this chicken will look appetizing before we're done here. Keep faith.
04:39I'm planning to make two cups of dry, long-grain rice, so I'll need about three cups of liquid
04:43to cook it in. Ideally, I want to reduce this to three cups, though you could always
04:47add water if you reduce it too far. Strain that out, and hey, nailed it. Legit, I actually
04:52nailed that.
04:53Now, you could finish this dinner right now, or you could throw all this in the fridge
04:57and do the rest another time. Half an hour before you want to eat, start the rice. That's
05:01just two cups, about 400 grams at most of long grain. And I'm washing it because I'm
05:05going for the traditional East Asian fluffy rice vibe. Just rinse and pour a few times
05:11to remove the powdery, free starch coat.
05:13I'll peel and finely chop some garlic and ginger. Pretty common to put aromatics in
05:17the rice for chicken rice. And if I had a lot of rendered fat from my chicken, I would
05:21cook these in the chicken fat, but I just didn't get much, so I'm gonna use toasted
05:25sesame oil instead. Once those are just starting to go golden, I'll pour in my rice and toast
05:30it there dry for a minute. Same way the Italians do for risotto. This is totally a thing with
05:35chicken rice too, often done in the chicken's own rendered fat.
05:38In goes my broth. It's chunky because it's chilled. Totally fine that any fat goes in
05:42there as well. I'll stir that up, cover and bring to a boil, then reduce my heat all the
05:47way down to low. Just let it steam covered the rest of the way.
05:50Here's my pickles, and I'm gonna boil that sweet pickle juice down to a glaze. Try to
05:54be more careful than me, and don't let any onions go overboard. They can burn at the
05:58temperature at which we'll be boiling the glaze. In goes a lot of soy sauce, maybe one
06:03part soy sauce to two parts pickle juice. Then I'm gonna just bring this to a boil and
06:07reduce.
06:08Devotees might notice this recipe is similar to the reverse braised beef recipe that I
06:12posted recently. Indeed, when I was cooking that, it occurred to me that the same techniques
06:16might be applied to chicken rice, which is a dish that I've wanted to find my own way
06:19of doing for a while, so here we are.
06:21When bubbles start to stack on themselves like that, that's a good indication that you've
06:25reduced any sweet liquid into a syrup. It won't seem very syrupy yet, but that's because
06:29it's hot. It'll thicken a ton as it cools. And if you want it even more syrupy, or if
06:33you just want to have more glaze, you could always summon forth the upside-down bear
06:37and stir in a little honey. Can't hurt. Maybe more vinegar to balance it. Just taste and
06:41adjust.
06:42OK, chicken onto a sheet pan. It won't look bloody much longer. I'll give that a good
06:45splash of oil. Make sure the pan and all the pieces are coated, and the pieces are positioned
06:50skin side up. I want to crisp those skins under my broiler. It should just take a few
06:55minutes. And by the time the skins are crispy to the touch, the meat inside should be perfectly
07:00reheated.
07:01And then I'm going to toss those pieces straight into my glaze. This is why I didn't season
07:05those pieces before they went under the grill. That glaze is salty with the soy sauce.
07:09Here's that fragrant chickeny rice. Pile that on. It's really the main event.
07:13A couple of contrasting chicken pieces, and then a big handful of the drained pickles.
07:17Any excess glaze you have, you can spoon over the top. I was not ready for how perfectly
07:22cooked that chicken turned out. Super juicy inside, without having any of that gelatinous
07:27texture that pink chicken can have. And browned skin on top. Poached, then broiled. It's really
07:32the best of all worlds. Basically sous-vide, but all you need is a pot.
07:36Yeah, what am I thinking trying to eat a chicken leg with a fork? Let's just do this thing.

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