• 2 months ago

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00:00:00I'm setting off on the greatest journey of my life.
00:00:06Let's do this!
00:00:08To travel around the globe by train.
00:00:11I have no idea what platform we're going from.
00:00:17I'll be riding some of the most spectacular rail routes on earth.
00:00:21On the fastest, steepest, and most luxurious trains, passing through some of the world's
00:00:29most famous places.
00:00:30The Eiffel Tower.
00:00:31Grand Central Station.
00:00:33There it is, Mount Fuji.
00:00:37And beyond, to parts of the planet I never knew existed.
00:00:41We're totally isolated.
00:00:44To immerse myself.
00:00:45This isn't for anything, this is just what people do on a Sunday.
00:00:50In the weird, the wild, and the wonderful.
00:00:57This is unlike anything I've ever done before.
00:01:01After a marathon flight, I've made it to the land down under, Australia.
00:01:15I'm in Sydney, the starting point for the XPT long distance train, which is going to
00:01:20take me nearly 600 miles north.
00:01:26Quite frankly, if you've got a TV production company paying for your railway tickets in
00:01:30a country as big as Australia, you're going to want to see something a bit different,
00:01:34aren't you?
00:01:35Which is why I'm going to head off the beaten track and meet real Aussies on their own turf.
00:01:42This really is an insanely big country, so I'm not mucking about.
00:01:46I'll blast up the east coast quickly and efficiently, then dart inland to the Aussie bush before
00:01:52hurtling all the way up to the reef in the far north.
00:01:59So I've got no time to waste in Sydney, but before my epic journey, there's a view I want
00:02:04you to see.
00:02:05Look at that.
00:02:06I lived and worked in Sydney for a while, and it's always held a special place in my
00:02:11heart.
00:02:12It never fails to take your breath away.
00:02:15It's only by air you can really take in the complexity of its shape, how the water and
00:02:20the city constantly interact.
00:02:22It really is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, especially from the air.
00:02:27Well, Tony, we're just heading out through Sydney Head now.
00:02:30So if you see that beach there, that's Bondi.
00:02:34Can you see some white blocks of flats?
00:02:37Yeah, yeah, yeah.
00:02:38I lived in for about three months, just overlooking the sand and the sea.
00:02:44It was a hell of a life.
00:02:46I know Sydney pretty well, but the vast majority of Australia is still a mystery to me.
00:02:51And to get to the remote places I've always wanted to visit, I've got to cover a hell
00:02:56of a lot of miles quickly.
00:02:58So I'm hitting the rails.
00:03:00I'm getting on the XPT, which will take me on the first leg of a two-part 18-hour trip.
00:03:05I want to go and check out small-town Australia.
00:03:09So I'm heading north from New South Wales to Queensland.
00:03:12This interstate route is part of a network of 25,000 miles of tracks crisscrossing this
00:03:18stonkingly huge country.
00:03:22This north coastline was completed in 1932 and ends up in Brisbane.
00:03:28But I haven't come here to see the big cities, so I'm leaping across the platform to change
00:03:33trains for the second leg of my journey out west.
00:03:37I just so love the design of these old trains.
00:03:41Stainless steel and all these snazzy colours.
00:03:44Evening.
00:03:48This little beauty will take me four hours west, or as it's known here, out bush.
00:03:55In the 19th century, it used to be called the Western Mail, but now it's got a snazzy
00:03:59modern name, the Westlander.
00:04:02I'm retracing the steps of the country's earliest pioneers.
00:04:07And I've arrived at the small town of Milmerran, at the edge of the outback.
00:04:17This is the Camp Oven Festival.
00:04:19It's a two-day event dedicated to the celebration of a cast iron cooking pot.
00:04:25This is a bit like 5,000 people having a festival in Maidstone, Kent to celebrate the frying pan.
00:04:32Thousands come from all over the country to pay homage to this rather humble camping accessory.
00:04:37And quite frankly, I'm fascinated to know why.
00:04:43Ned, are these camp ovens?
00:04:48They're the genuine camp ovens.
00:04:51Ned Winter is a former drover who used to herd sheep across the outback and cooked with
00:04:56a camp oven on his long and remote journeys.
00:04:59He helps dream up the festival to honour this piece of Aussie rural heritage.
00:05:03Tell me about them historically.
00:05:05People in the 19th century, they would come over here from England, they would buy one
00:05:11or two of these in the big town and then head off into the outback.
00:05:15That's right.
00:05:16So these were pretty important, weren't they?
00:05:17Oh, they were important.
00:05:18This was their only way of cooking that food, you know.
00:05:22What sort of things did people use to cook in them?
00:05:24Well, you could cook a beautiful roast dinner, a curry, a stew, your dampers.
00:05:30Well, practically everything.
00:05:32To experience bush life to the full, Ned's getting me cooking.
00:05:36And I'm starting with a traditional Aussie bush bread called a damper.
00:05:40The main thing is the correct measurements.
00:05:45You're just tipping it in, mate.
00:05:48That's the right amount.
00:05:50And the salt?
00:05:51Yeah.
00:05:52The right measurements.
00:05:54Mix the flour in, the salt in.
00:05:57Yeah, you do it, Will.
00:05:58Now, I'm going to ask one of these blokes here, why would I use this hand to mix the damper?
00:06:03Let's ask the sound guy.
00:06:05Ed, come here.
00:06:06It's got nothing to do with the hand you use when you go to the toilet, has it?
00:06:11No, no.
00:06:13That says more about you than it does about the question.
00:06:16So what's the answer?
00:06:19I'm right handed.
00:06:22To finish the damper, Ned adds water.
00:06:25And then it goes into the camp oven.
00:06:27Lid goes on.
00:06:29And in a TV 25 minutes later...
00:06:31Oh, look at that!
00:06:33That's not bad, is it?
00:06:34Looks all right to me.
00:06:35Yeah, yeah, yeah.
00:06:37It's not quite...
00:06:40That is the fair dinkum Aussie damper.
00:06:44With my damper so lovingly made, is it time to eat it?
00:06:48No, it's not.
00:06:50This is the outback.
00:06:57For some reason, which I don't quite understand,
00:07:00when you've baked your damper here, you throw it as far as you can.
00:07:08If I attempt to do it, I'll be covered in humiliation.
00:07:12The Aussies' love of sport means they'll turn practically anything into one.
00:07:16All the way from London, England.
00:07:18With skills completely untried in this competition,
00:07:20how do you think you're going to go today?
00:07:22I think I'll probably win.
00:07:24I love your confidence.
00:07:26I'll come on and try it a little bit.
00:07:28Come on! That's it!
00:07:40Ladies and gentlemen, I regret to tell you that the tent castles
00:07:42will no longer be functioning for the rest of the festival.
00:07:45That's just what I hope for.
00:07:48People come from all over Australia to this event.
00:07:51It's run by locals and the profits go to local organisations.
00:07:56And, of course, it's keeping local traditions alive.
00:08:05There's an integrity about it that I really like.
00:08:09I think one day I'll come back here.
00:08:13Coming up, my journey continues as I head to the back of Beyond
00:08:17where I try my luck as a farmhand.
00:08:19Wait! Not so far! Not so far!
00:08:22Walk in the footsteps of dinosaurs.
00:08:24That's a massive footprint!
00:08:26And relax outback style.
00:08:43I'm on yet another train.
00:08:45This time, the spirit of the outback,
00:08:47which will take me on a 24-hour journey deep into the Aussie bush.
00:08:51I thought this would be a really rickety old-fashioned train.
00:08:55It's 37 years old, but they've done it out really nicely.
00:08:59I love this bed.
00:09:01And look outside.
00:09:06Isn't this nice?
00:09:08The colours are beautiful.
00:09:10This sort of dusty pink here.
00:09:13I suppose you'd call that burgundy down there, wouldn't you?
00:09:16But the point is, it's all curved.
00:09:19Normally, any train you go in, you walk down the carriage, it's dead straight.
00:09:24But this makes you feel like something special.
00:09:27Like I'm at the Savoy.
00:09:29But unlike the Savoy, you don't need a black suit and tie to come in here.
00:09:33This is the shearer's rest.
00:09:36But I don't think many of you are shearers, are you?
00:09:40Inland train routes like the Central Western Line
00:09:43helped to open up the inner reaches of Australia in the 1800s.
00:09:47In fact, this town of Longreach I'm heading to
00:09:50didn't exist until the decision was made to extend the line to this point.
00:09:57Oh, thank you. Enjoy.
00:09:59Look at this. Better than a ham sandwich, isn't it?
00:10:03Before you destroy it, I just need a quick little close-up.
00:10:07The thing about crews is that they're obsessed with a close-up.
00:10:11Tiny bit lower down nearer the table, that's great.
00:10:14Ladies and gentlemen, I present to you a close-up of a scone.
00:10:26Inhospitable landscape.
00:10:29Total flipping luxury.
00:10:33LAUGHTER
00:10:36A rather considerable time later, I arrive at Longreach.
00:10:40But I still need to head even further out bush.
00:10:44Way, way out.
00:10:47Look at this earth. Dry as a bird.
00:10:51You'd think that farmers would be crazy to farm here, wouldn't you?
00:10:55But they've got one thing going for them.
00:10:57They've got a hell of a lot of space.
00:11:03ENGINE ROARS
00:11:06At 15,000 acres, Shandon Vale Farm definitely has space to spare.
00:11:12And because a trip to the outback wouldn't be complete
00:11:15without experiencing farm life, I'm here to get my hands dirty.
00:11:19Next to me is Tim, the farm's helipilot.
00:11:23The property's so vast, it used to take early settlers days
00:11:27to locate and move animals around.
00:11:30Now, with helicopters, the herds can be found in hours.
00:11:37Oh, hang on, wait, wait, wait. There they are.
00:11:40Camels were introduced to Australia in the 1840s
00:11:44to help explore Australia's red centre.
00:11:47There are now over one million running wild.
00:11:50How do you muster them?
00:11:52Well, you've just got to get them all together and move them.
00:11:58Well, ask an Aussie a silly question, I suppose.
00:12:01The camels are used to organically control weeds
00:12:04so the farm doesn't spray pesticide.
00:12:07And every six weeks, they need to be moved to a different paddock,
00:12:10which on a farm this size is an epic task.
00:12:14So we're joined by the farm owner Dion,
00:12:16and with a bike, buggy and heli, we get to work.
00:12:20Right, let's see if we can get around a bit.
00:12:24The wild camel population has become so large
00:12:28that Australia now exports its camels to Saudi Arabia.
00:12:32Oi, not so far, not so far.
00:12:37Oi, come on, sunshine, come on.
00:12:46Come on.
00:12:49I don't like that one with the frothy face.
00:12:59Oh, that was really exhilarating.
00:13:02I actually felt it quite a lot of the time.
00:13:05I actually got control of the herd.
00:13:08I'm working with the helicopter and the bike as well.
00:13:13I like that.
00:13:19This place is... There's a lot of property, isn't there?
00:13:22Oh, there's enough room to move, yeah.
00:13:24Can't hear your neighbour pissing on the tree next door.
00:13:27No.
00:13:28So it's just you and your wife?
00:13:30Yeah, just me and Lion, yeah.
00:13:32Do you ever get lonely?
00:13:34No, no, not nowadays.
00:13:38Probably the first six or seven years here, I lived by myself.
00:13:42And that was, you know, it's not really good for you
00:13:46when you're 17 or 18 and you're living by yourself.
00:13:49You don't have too much interaction with others.
00:13:52So you're all solitary?
00:13:54Yeah, a little bit crazy, yeah.
00:13:58This famously dry country is currently even drier,
00:14:02as it experiences one of the worst droughts in its history.
00:14:06How long has this drought been going on for?
00:14:09We're in our seventh or sixth year.
00:14:13You seem very laid-back about the fact
00:14:15that you're in the middle of a six-year drought.
00:14:17You've just got to learn to live with it.
00:14:19We destocked all our cattle and then we went into sheep,
00:14:22dooper sheep, you know, adapted to this climate.
00:14:25So we're sort of just running on the bare minimum and...
00:14:28And that's what you always do when you get a drought,
00:14:31you contract by yourself.
00:14:33So, yes, you need to try and keep a core
00:14:35so when it does rain you can take advantage of it, yeah.
00:14:38I'm riding out to feed the farm sheep
00:14:40with Dion and his wife, Lane.
00:14:42If there's a switch to be pulled, I'll pull it.
00:14:44Can you reach? Shut up!
00:14:47So just turn that on to on? Yeah.
00:14:55The drought means the land can't currently produce
00:14:58enough grazing grass, so the sheep need to feed twice daily.
00:15:04So you just walk along, make sure no-one gets run over.
00:15:10And it's not just around Longreach that's feeling the drought.
00:15:13Over 58% of the state of Queensland is drought declared.
00:15:17Very, very dusty, but really the most important thing
00:15:20is to jog along by the side of the little old truck
00:15:24because some of the sheep are so daft
00:15:26that they would go under and get squashed,
00:15:28but none of them did, so job well done.
00:15:34Oh, this is nice.
00:15:36I can't tell you how far away from everywhere else this place is.
00:15:40Had to drive mile after mile after mile down dusty roads,
00:15:45but this is cute alert.
00:15:47Ready? Come on. Come on.
00:15:51Look at that. Aren't you gorgeous?
00:15:56Can you sit down for me?
00:15:58Sit down for me.
00:16:00There's a good girl.
00:16:02This joey has lost its mother
00:16:04and is being hand-raised by Dion and Lane.
00:16:07I don't know if this will work, but...
00:16:11Hey, do you want to go back in?
00:16:13Sweetheart, sweetheart, this way.
00:16:16Come on, don't eat the sound, man.
00:16:18Don't eat the sound, man. Here you go.
00:16:20Come on. Here's your home.
00:16:23Yeah.
00:16:28Come on, put this leg away.
00:16:30There you are. I'll put you back now.
00:16:32It was worth travelling round the world just to do that.
00:16:36Say goodbye.
00:16:41After a day experiencing working farm life,
00:16:44Dion's arranged for me to end my day in true Aussie style
00:16:48with a cold glass of beer.
00:16:57Oh!
00:17:03Oh!
00:17:07And a view that really can't be beaten.
00:17:20Oh!
00:17:22You don't get this at the London Planetarium.
00:17:25Oh!
00:17:38Because this whole area is so unbelievably vast,
00:17:41I'm cheating a bit.
00:17:43I'm leaving the railway track and I'm getting onto this dirt track
00:17:47and a 4x4.
00:17:50I'm heading further north, above the Tropic of Capricorn, to Winton.
00:17:56This place is so bleak, so flat,
00:17:59so uninspiring when you're driving through it.
00:18:02It just does your head in.
00:18:05You would never think that in a place like this
00:18:09you'd find something which could completely turn
00:18:12our whole understanding of prehistory Australia on its head.
00:18:18But that's precisely what happened to Dave.
00:18:21Dave!
00:18:23Farmer Dave Elliott's life changed
00:18:25when he discovered a rather special bone.
00:18:30That's a heck of a bone, isn't it?
00:18:32That is a heck of a bone.
00:18:34It's your pride and joy, isn't it?
00:18:36It's a toe. It's just a little toe.
00:18:38A little toe from a...?
00:18:40Off a sauropod dinosaur.
00:18:42One of the small toes on his back foot.
00:18:44Did you know straight away that that was a dinosaur?
00:18:46Driving along on the bike, going pretty fast,
00:18:48and went to dodge a pile of rocks.
00:18:50And I just looked and said,
00:18:52I'll just duck back and have a look at that.
00:18:54And I found lots of pieces of dinosaurs,
00:18:56but I never found one that was a new species
00:18:58that was a really significant dinosaur.
00:19:00And in 2005, I found this.
00:19:02Did you say that it's a new species?
00:19:04It is. It was described in 2008.
00:19:07It was named Savannasaurus eleatorum.
00:19:09Eleatorum! Well done, mate.
00:19:12Not many people have a dinosaur named after them.
00:19:14It loosely translates to the Elliot family's
00:19:16lizard of the grasslands.
00:19:20And Dave's bone isn't the only evidence
00:19:22of sauropod activity unearthed in the Winton area.
00:19:28Well, there!
00:19:30That's a massive footprint.
00:19:32Like an enormous camel.
00:19:34That's the front foot of a sauropod.
00:19:36When they put their front foot down,
00:19:38they drive it forward.
00:19:40You see those big bowls?
00:19:42Yeah, yeah, yeah.
00:19:44During the late Cretaceous period,
00:19:46this whole area was rainforest.
00:19:48And these trackways were formed
00:19:50when sauropods,
00:19:52huge plant-eating dinosaurs,
00:19:54walked through soft sediment
00:19:56leaving an impression,
00:19:58which over millions of years
00:20:00hardened into rock.
00:20:02This is absolutely massive, isn't it?
00:20:04That's 900 millimetres long.
00:20:06And they're walking that way.
00:20:08It's great.
00:20:10How big do you reckon these boys would have been?
00:20:12This bloke here would have been 18 metres long.
00:20:14The earth would have shaken, wouldn't it?
00:20:16The sauropods roamed these lands
00:20:18100 million years ago.
00:20:20Just a minute, just a minute.
00:20:22Are these here?
00:20:24Are these little footprints too?
00:20:26They're little chicken-sized dinosaurs.
00:20:28They're not little versions of this one?
00:20:30They're a different sort?
00:20:32How many different kinds of dinosaurs?
00:20:34Three.
00:20:36These are salurosaurs, our little meat-eaters.
00:20:38There's the ornithopods, which are a bit bigger,
00:20:40smaller than an emu, but some of the plain turkey.
00:20:42And then you've got the size
00:20:44of the sauropods.
00:20:46And is it usual to see
00:20:48all three kinds of dinosaurs
00:20:50going along together?
00:20:52No, it's very, very rare, actually,
00:20:54to see all three sorts of tracks together in the same trackway,
00:20:56and we have got them on this site.
00:20:58So you've found something really unusual?
00:21:00Well, it looks like we have.
00:21:06Coming up, I head to lush climbs
00:21:08of the north and take the plunge
00:21:10in one of the wonders of the world.
00:21:12It's like something out of Apocalypse Now down there.
00:21:14Have a brief encounter
00:21:16with a rather special lady.
00:21:18Oh, Margaret, you don't like that, do you?
00:21:20And I roll with the far north's answer
00:21:22to Crocodile Dundee.
00:21:24Oh, man, I can see it.
00:21:26It's a big one.
00:21:28My goodness me.
00:21:32I'm continuing on my journey
00:21:34in Australia.
00:21:36My train is now making its way north
00:21:38up the coast of Queensland.
00:21:40Over 85% of Australians
00:21:42live within 30 miles
00:21:44of the country's coastline.
00:21:46The spirit of Queensland
00:21:48runs between Brisbane and Cairns
00:21:50five times a week.
00:21:52This tilt train was introduced
00:21:54in 2013 and already
00:21:56has over 1.5 million miles
00:21:58under its belt.
00:22:00And after 31 hours,
00:22:02my train has finally arrived
00:22:04into Cairns in far north Queensland.
00:22:06Cairns
00:22:08is the biggest city in the far north
00:22:10and it's also the gateway
00:22:12to the Great Barrier Reef.
00:22:14Over there is
00:22:16Fitzroy Island. It's a beautiful
00:22:18tropical paradise.
00:22:20Turquoise water, lush
00:22:22green forest. Perfect.
00:22:24Except below the
00:22:26surface, things aren't quite
00:22:28what they seem.
00:22:32The
00:22:34Great Barrier Reef is the largest
00:22:36reef system in the world.
00:22:38Stretching for 1600 miles,
00:22:40it's larger than the entire UK
00:22:42and can be seen from space.
00:22:44But rises in water
00:22:46temperatures are causing damage
00:22:48and instead of the vibrant hues we're used
00:22:50to seeing, now parts of it
00:22:52look like this.
00:22:56That's horrible, that
00:22:58white coral, isn't it? It's like something
00:23:00out of a potluck canal down there.
00:23:02It was horrible, just white stuff.
00:23:04The corals were just melting off the rocks.
00:23:06Gary lives and dives here with his
00:23:08son Kai and has seen first hand
00:23:10the changes to the reef over the years.
00:23:12So explain to me
00:23:14what I was seeing. So the piece of coral
00:23:16you had there, that was a dead piece of coral.
00:23:18That would have died in the 2017
00:23:20bleaching event. But what is a bleaching
00:23:22event? There's a little microscopic
00:23:24algae that lives inside the coral that gives it
00:23:26its colour. So during a bleaching event
00:23:28the water gets too hot, the coral
00:23:30expels this algae and it goes
00:23:32a bleach white. But the chances
00:23:34are it will die.
00:23:36Though some coral will regrow
00:23:38naturally, the reef hasn't had time
00:23:40to recover.
00:23:42And what have you got there Kai?
00:23:44I got a piece of coral.
00:23:46What did it feel
00:23:48like the first time that you
00:23:50were snorkelling and you saw
00:23:52coral like this? Very, very sad.
00:23:54We sat on the edge of the water there crying
00:23:56and was very upset after seeing it.
00:23:58So it kind of spurred me on more.
00:24:02Gary's part of a group of local
00:24:04volunteers who are working to give
00:24:06the reef a helping hand to
00:24:08recover and regrow.
00:24:10They've been taking healthy coral,
00:24:12cutting it into smaller pieces and
00:24:14growing them in the nursery.
00:24:16It's a technique similar to taking a cutting
00:24:18from a plant to grow a new one.
00:24:20It's a delicate process and one that
00:24:22can only be done with a permit
00:24:24from the Marine Park Authority.
00:24:26It's fascinating. It looks like
00:24:28an apple tree
00:24:30in an orchard that's been
00:24:32half harvested.
00:24:34There are some branches with no apples
00:24:36on them and others with huge
00:24:38apples on. It's the same here
00:24:40except that it's coral.
00:24:42By using corals that have
00:24:44already survived a bleaching event,
00:24:46the new growths are more likely to be
00:24:48resilient to future bleaching.
00:24:50And keeping them closer to the surface
00:24:52where they get more access to sunlight
00:24:54and nutrients helps them grow faster.
00:24:56They grow maybe seven,
00:24:58eight times quicker because they're not
00:25:00fighting off algae, pests, other corals.
00:25:02All their energy goes into growing.
00:25:04So when you've got one of these little
00:25:06trees of coral and it looks like
00:25:08it's going to be okay, what do you do with it?
00:25:10After the six to nine months, we plant them back to the reef.
00:25:12Once the coral is taken to the reef,
00:25:14it's attached to the bedrock
00:25:16where it'll continue to keep growing as it would
00:25:18naturally. From one little piece,
00:25:20we can cut out thousands of corals from that one little piece.
00:25:22That's what we've done with a ten tree nursery.
00:25:24So you can imagine what we can do with a hundred trees.
00:25:26The reef is resilient
00:25:28if it has the time. But the thing
00:25:30now is that we don't have the time. We don't have
00:25:32ten years until another bleaching event.
00:25:34They're talking about it maybe bleaching again this year.
00:25:36If it bleaches again this year while it's in this
00:25:38state, we're in a
00:25:40we're in an awful way.
00:25:42We need to get more of these
00:25:44out there. What we're doing here,
00:25:46this isn't going to save the Great Barrier Reef,
00:25:48but it's making a positive contribution.
00:25:52These coral
00:25:54trees, they started
00:25:56apparently about that big. Well, some
00:25:58of them are zonking now.
00:26:00You can imagine that if the whole of this
00:26:02area was full of these trees,
00:26:04you'd be producing coral
00:26:06that would make a significant difference.
00:26:10And as night falls
00:26:12in Cairns, we're confronted
00:26:14with a very different sort
00:26:16of wildlife.
00:26:18Come on little lads.
00:26:22So it's in here.
00:26:24Yeah. So what
00:26:26happened? You just came in to
00:26:28look at the boat? Yeah, well I've been fishing
00:26:30yesterday. I hooked the battery up to
00:26:32charge. Yeah. And
00:26:34yeah. And what? There's a bloody big
00:26:36snake sitting there.
00:26:38Local snake catcher Matt Hagen
00:26:40has been called out by Phil and Lisa
00:26:42to help with their unwelcome houseguest.
00:26:44It might be helpful if you
00:26:46can be my bag man
00:26:48Tony. The snake is going to
00:26:50go in here.
00:26:58Under that front
00:27:00hatch, Matt.
00:27:04Oh man, I can see it. I can see it.
00:27:06Sam, can you see it?
00:27:08There are 170
00:27:10different kinds of snake in Australia.
00:27:12It's head
00:27:14isn't s-ing up straight away
00:27:16so it's not really in a
00:27:18struck position.
00:27:20Matt handles any and all snakes
00:27:22and Australia has 17
00:27:24of the 20 most venomous in the world.
00:27:32Oh it is, it's a really big one.
00:27:34My goodness me.
00:27:36It's pretty though.
00:27:38It's not so pretty from here.
00:27:40Oh, shouldn't you
00:27:42be worried more about its head?
00:27:44Yeah, I'm trying to be as
00:27:46kind to it as I can.
00:27:48That's a pretty decent sized
00:27:50carpet python to be living in your boat.
00:27:52Luckily this guy is
00:27:54a python, so not venomous.
00:27:56But it could still give Matt
00:27:58or me a mighty big bite.
00:28:00Oh!
00:28:02His tongue popped out again.
00:28:06It feels like I'm frying a very heavy pancake.
00:28:08Feeling down there
00:28:10it may be getting ready to lay some
00:28:12eggs. Do you think that's why
00:28:14she might have found this nice little place
00:28:16to tuck away? Very possibly.
00:28:18You could have had lots more snakes.
00:28:20A whole family, that would have been wonderful.
00:28:22It's a lovely garden.
00:28:24After driving
00:28:26out of town, Matt must now
00:28:28delicately try and return the snake
00:28:30to the wild.
00:28:32Oh, she's a heavy girl, isn't she?
00:28:34What do you do when you're not catching snakes?
00:28:36I spend the
00:28:38daytime farming crocodiles.
00:28:40It's a nice easy life. That's right.
00:28:42That'll do.
00:28:44It's a tricky process because Matt can't
00:28:46see where the snake's positioned in the bag.
00:28:48Step away from this a bit, I think.
00:28:50We've driven up a
00:28:52long windy road
00:28:54to the top of this hill.
00:28:56You can probably see the lights of
00:28:58cairns over there, but
00:29:00here is the beginning of the tropical
00:29:02rainforest, so we're going to
00:29:04free her.
00:29:06Sorry to mess you about.
00:29:10She is so
00:29:12beautiful, isn't she? She is.
00:29:14Hopefully she can lay her eggs
00:29:16in the rainforest instead of
00:29:18the bow of the boat.
00:29:20There.
00:29:26Job done.
00:29:28Time for a beer.
00:29:34Morning.
00:29:36Morning.
00:29:38I'm carrying on my travels
00:29:40by heading north into the mountains
00:29:42on the Carrander Scenic Railway.
00:29:50It might not have the prettiest starting point,
00:29:52but apparently where we're going
00:29:54is something else.
00:30:04I love the way this carriage is made.
00:30:06It's about 80 years old.
00:30:08And look at the way the seats are configured.
00:30:10It reminds me of my mum's lounge
00:30:12at Christmas when all the chairs
00:30:14were brought in for the
00:30:16uncles and aunties. And the fabric
00:30:18is lovely. Look at that.
00:30:20The Carrander Railway line
00:30:22was originally built to transport
00:30:24supplies to the mines in the
00:30:26Appleton Tablelands, and the trains would
00:30:28return to the ports in cairns laden
00:30:30with tin.
00:30:32Shoe bend, this is called.
00:30:34It's fairly obvious, more or less.
00:30:36And it was the building of this
00:30:38transport link that led to cairns
00:30:40becoming the largest town in the far north.
00:30:42This railway was built
00:30:44at the end of the 19th century.
00:30:46It was a massive engineering project.
00:30:4837 bridges,
00:30:5015 tunnels.
00:30:52It took five years to build.
00:30:54When it was finished,
00:30:56the freight line also began taking
00:30:58passengers, and quickly gained a reputation
00:31:00for its stunning views.
00:31:02It's remained a tourist train
00:31:04ever since.
00:31:06Oh, wow.
00:31:08Isn't this incredible?
00:31:14My travels in
00:31:16Australia have brought me to the far
00:31:18north of Queensland.
00:31:22A bit of planting like this
00:31:24at Birmingham New Street wouldn't go amiss, would it?
00:31:26Carrander is in the heart of
00:31:28rainforest country, and I want to
00:31:30find out more about these natural wonders.
00:31:32So I'm heading to one of the world's
00:31:34most spectacular.
00:31:36I'm in the Daintree National Park.
00:31:38Apparently, there are
00:31:40more different species in
00:31:42100 square metres of this
00:31:44park than there are in the whole
00:31:46of North America. It's pretty amazing,
00:31:48isn't it? And I'm going to meet
00:31:50a man who knows all about this
00:31:52forest.
00:31:54Hi, mate. Hey, Tony. How are you
00:31:56today, mate? All right. That's one heck of a
00:31:58tree, isn't it? Yeah, we call it Jarangal.
00:32:00This is a special place that the trees,
00:32:02they're home to spirits, to ghosts.
00:32:04To ghosts? To ghosts. So, yeah, our people, you know,
00:32:06if the spiritual healers were doing any
00:32:08spiritual work, they'd come to the old people around these
00:32:10big trees and talk to the old people.
00:32:12Juan lives in the rainforest and is
00:32:14part of the Gugu Yalanji mob,
00:32:16the traditional custodians of this area.
00:32:18And why have you got all this bark here?
00:32:20I'm going to give you a little traditional welcome to country
00:32:22here. And this is to clear
00:32:24any bad sort of energy that's following you
00:32:26around. All the city rubbish. That's
00:32:28right. That I carry about inside me. That's right.
00:32:30I see you've got an ancient
00:32:32indigenous cigarette lighter there. That's it, mate.
00:32:34Yeah, this is the way to go. Saves a
00:32:36whole lot of time.
00:32:38The smoke is good
00:32:40to breathe in. To clear any
00:32:42bad energy.
00:32:50The welcome to country ceremony gets performed
00:32:52when you enter traditional land.
00:32:58It's quite nice, this sort of ceremony, isn't it?
00:33:00It does make you feel that it's a special thing
00:33:02to do. Well, it is a special thing. It's quite
00:33:04important, you know. It's always a good thing to do,
00:33:06just to, you know, be respectful to the
00:33:08spirits of land. The visitor
00:33:10vows to respect the land and inhabitants
00:33:12while the traditional custodians
00:33:14honour and protect you on your visit.
00:33:16So the whole crew's got to do it too, right?
00:33:23Get the
00:33:25director in as well. He needs quite a lot.
00:33:27He's the biggest by far.
00:33:29Juan wants other people to learn
00:33:31about indigenous culture,
00:33:33so he educates visitors about the flora
00:33:35and fauna and history of the region.
00:33:38So at the base of the tree down here,
00:33:40Tony, if you have a look, you'll see these little
00:33:42red bulbs. If you give these little
00:33:44bulbs a squeeze, you'll get
00:33:46this gel coming out. And that
00:33:48gel is really good for mozzie bites.
00:33:50And it'll take the itching and the swelling out.
00:33:52Oh, yeah. Yeah, yeah. It really is
00:33:54sticky, isn't it?
00:33:56It's like something you'd squeeze out of a tube.
00:33:58Yeah. We're part of this
00:34:00country. We don't own it. We don't believe we
00:34:02are rulers of it. We're part of it.
00:34:04What's your tribe, your mob?
00:34:06Our mob here, we call ourselves the Gugi Yalanji.
00:34:08And how many of you live around here?
00:34:10Around 200
00:34:12to 300 people.
00:34:14Presumably you got hammered by us lot when we
00:34:16arrived. Yeah. Yeah, before European
00:34:18arrival, the local area here,
00:34:20you would have been close to a thousand people.
00:34:22And when settlers came, they wanted the resources
00:34:24and we tried to resist, but we didn't
00:34:26stand a chance with guns.
00:34:28So many of our people were massacred
00:34:30in different areas in the area.
00:34:32Aboriginals have been around for 70,000 years or more.
00:34:34When did you get the right to vote?
00:34:361967.
00:34:38It's mad, isn't it?
00:34:40And the Europeans, they tried wiping us out,
00:34:42but they didn't do a good enough job.
00:34:44I'm very glad.
00:34:48While I'm here in the rainforest,
00:34:50I want to know more about the different aspects
00:34:52of traditional life in the Dane tree.
00:34:54Lincoln is Juan's brother
00:34:56and he's agreed to show me another part of life
00:34:58here.
00:35:00Lincoln!
00:35:02How are you doing, mate?
00:35:04So what is it we're going to have to do?
00:35:06Alright, well, we're going to take you out
00:35:08and show you how to
00:35:10hopefully catch something here.
00:35:12Lincoln and I are spearfishing
00:35:14for dinner.
00:35:16Alright, I'll get you out
00:35:18and we'll start working.
00:35:20Just poke anything you're not sure of.
00:35:22Sage advice I plan on following.
00:35:24But at the moment
00:35:26I can't see anything at all.
00:35:28If I ever get the chance.
00:35:34I thought I saw the flash
00:35:36of something then.
00:35:38Got anything yet, mate?
00:35:40Nothing yet.
00:35:42I'm glad we're not running a fish and chip shop.
00:35:44The cure would be out there.
00:35:46Trouble is, I've got this
00:35:48great camera crew
00:35:50right in front of me
00:35:52stirring up all the mud.
00:35:54The waters
00:35:56around the Dane tree are filled with
00:35:581,500 types of fish.
00:36:00Allegedly.
00:36:02There's probably no other
00:36:04bit of water on the entire
00:36:06planet that has less fish in it.
00:36:08Here we go, crab!
00:36:10Oh, there he goes, he's on the run.
00:36:14Yay!
00:36:16Oh, you got something for the day.
00:36:18Well, I wouldn't
00:36:20say it was a total victory.
00:36:22I think we've probably been out about
00:36:24an hour and a half, haven't we?
00:36:26But, I've got one
00:36:28swimmer crab.
00:36:30Something to eat, yeah, share with the family.
00:36:32I hope there's a large salad.
00:36:34Crocodiles will be here soon, so we might
00:36:36better head back.
00:36:38You're not winding me up?
00:36:40No, they come fishing at night now.
00:36:42I'll take you back.
00:36:48It's changed colour already, hasn't it?
00:36:50Yeah, we don't muck around.
00:36:52Oh, great, thank you, mate.
00:36:54That's lovely.
00:36:56Oh, I like this bit.
00:36:58It's my favourite.
00:37:00Oh, that's great!
00:37:02The great thing about
00:37:04this country being so big
00:37:06is that you've got the reef and the
00:37:08rainforest and the rivers and the mountains
00:37:10and the outback.
00:37:12But for me, it's all held
00:37:14together by the
00:37:16Australians.
00:37:18Straight-talking, practical,
00:37:20very funny,
00:37:22very ironic, very
00:37:24matey people.
00:37:26Good on you, Australia.
00:37:28Coming up...
00:37:32Coming up...
00:37:34I continue my railway adventure
00:37:36in Japan, home
00:37:38of the famous bullet train.
00:37:40That's so cool!
00:37:42From Tokyo's neon nightlife...
00:37:44It's Godzilla!
00:37:46I get submerged in Japanese culture...
00:37:48The only thing I'm nervous about is sometimes
00:37:50I really want to scratch my face.
00:37:52And have a stab at being a samurai.
00:37:54Obi-Wan Kenobi!
00:37:59This time,
00:38:01my journey takes me across Japan.
00:38:03This place is famous
00:38:05for the bullet train, but I'll be
00:38:07venturing off the mainline too
00:38:09to explore this fantastic country.
00:38:11I'm starting my trip on
00:38:13Kyushu, Japan's most southerly
00:38:15major island, before speeding on
00:38:17to Kyoto and Tokyo at
00:38:19200 miles per hour.
00:38:21I'll finish up 1,200 miles later
00:38:23in Hakodate in the far north.
00:38:25It's autumn
00:38:27here, and the countryside is a
00:38:29blaze of gorgeous colour.
00:38:31This is my first visit to Japan,
00:38:33and absolutely everything feels
00:38:35completely new to me.
00:38:39First things first,
00:38:41this is not a costume.
00:38:43I got into my hotel last night
00:38:45and the hotel manager insisted
00:38:47that I wear this kimono-y
00:38:49thing all the while I'm at
00:38:51the hotel. And then
00:38:53the shoe thing started.
00:38:55See these plastic
00:38:57ones? I'm only allowed to wear
00:38:59them outside here
00:39:01on the decking, and then
00:39:03when I get into here
00:39:05I wear bare feet
00:39:07until I come to the
00:39:09front door where I have to put
00:39:11these on. Have a look,
00:39:13there's a little gap, see that there?
00:39:15Between my big toe
00:39:17and the other ones, in order
00:39:19to contain that thing.
00:39:21But then, and this is
00:39:23quite extraordinary,
00:39:25when I go to the
00:39:27toilet, I have
00:39:29special
00:39:31toilet slippers.
00:39:33Japan has done my head in
00:39:35and I haven't even got my shoes on yet.
00:39:37To make matters worse,
00:39:39when I was a kid, the Japanese
00:39:41were the enemy. It was just after
00:39:43the Second World War, and everyone's
00:39:45mum and dad told terrible stories
00:39:47of the cruelty in Japanese
00:39:49prisoner of war camps.
00:39:51It wasn't until the 1960s that
00:39:53anyone round my way even bought a Japanese
00:39:55car. Those days are behind
00:39:57us now, and I'm looking forward
00:39:59to seeing how a new generation
00:40:01has shaped modern Japan.
00:40:03Ever since the first railway line was built
00:40:05from Tokyo in the 1800s,
00:40:07the country's been obsessed by trains.
00:40:0917,000 miles of
00:40:11track now cover the length and breadth
00:40:13of Japan, which has the
00:40:15third busiest network in the world.
00:40:17My first stop is Beppu,
00:40:19famous because of its unique
00:40:21geology. It's built on top
00:40:23of thousands of hot springs,
00:40:25and as a result, you can see
00:40:27steam escaping out of the ground
00:40:29all over the city.
00:40:31The whole town looks like it's leaking
00:40:33steam and no one's noticing.
00:40:35Once we had somebody calling
00:40:37the fire brigade by mistake, thinking
00:40:39there's a big fire going on, and he was of course
00:40:41a tourist and didn't know all about this
00:40:43venting steam.
00:40:45My guide, Yuyomi, is giving me a flavour
00:40:47of life in a town that's literally
00:40:49built on steam.
00:40:51As well as providing a tourist attraction,
00:40:53the hot water's used by the town's residents
00:40:55for their everyday activities.
00:40:57It's piped into homes to provide
00:40:59heating, and used in restaurants to make
00:41:01the local cuisine.
00:41:03These are Beppu's ominously named
00:41:05Eight Hells,
00:41:07where the water gushes out of the ground
00:41:09at almost boiling point.
00:41:11Oh no, I pressed the wrong thing!
00:41:13So here, you can cook
00:41:15a whole meal in steam from the earth.
00:41:17Off we go!
00:41:19Put the lids back on.
00:41:21The alarm's going!
00:41:23In less than
00:41:2520 minutes.
00:41:27This is really, really gorgeous.
00:41:29That really
00:41:31is the dog's watsits, isn't it?
00:41:33There are lots
00:41:35of clever ways to use this stuff.
00:41:37It's the first time
00:41:39I've ever steamed my feet.
00:41:41Some more immersive than others.
00:41:45My feet
00:41:47are coming out.
00:41:49You tuck them back in.
00:41:51This is a bit like
00:41:53being wrapped up
00:41:55in a big duvet,
00:41:57and getting warmer
00:41:59and warmer.
00:42:01This is Beppu's hot spring-infused
00:42:03sand.
00:42:05The treatment's designed to create
00:42:07a subterranean sauna,
00:42:09opening the pores and relieving stress.
00:42:11The only thing I'm nervous about
00:42:13is sometimes I really want to
00:42:15scratch my face.
00:42:17I was thinking exactly that right now.
00:42:19Could you ask her if she can scratch
00:42:21my nose, just the left-hand side of my nose?
00:42:27Oh,
00:42:29oh,
00:42:31that is so good.
00:42:33Thank you, lady who's burying me alive.
00:42:35Oh,
00:42:37that was tough.
00:42:43Anywhere in the world
00:42:45you've got hot springs, you have nice
00:42:47hot bathing pools. In Japan,
00:42:49they're called onsen.
00:42:51In Britain, they say that this kind of
00:42:53bathing began with the Georgians, don't
00:42:55they, or the Romans. Around here,
00:42:57they say it was started by the samurai.
00:42:59And I'm sure that
00:43:01there is a lot of truth in it, but
00:43:03I reckon that there is a bigger truth
00:43:05too, and that is that as
00:43:07long as there have been people
00:43:09pacing the earth,
00:43:11they have loved getting
00:43:13into warm water and
00:43:15listening to the trickle
00:43:17of water. I reckon
00:43:19even in Stone Age times,
00:43:21they used to take the weekend
00:43:23off and bring the kids here
00:43:25and just sit down and have
00:43:27a nice time.
00:43:29It's actually boiling hot
00:43:31in here. Would you mind
00:43:33shifting the camera so I can get out
00:43:35without showing everyone the chopstick?
00:43:38I've got
00:43:401,200 miles to cover,
00:43:42but I'm not taking just any old
00:43:44train. This is
00:43:46the Seven Stars, one of the most
00:43:48exclusive in the world.
00:43:50Trips cost up to
00:43:52ยฃ10,000. Even so,
00:43:54demand is so high that prospective
00:43:56passengers sometimes have to enter
00:43:58a lottery for tickets.
00:44:00Oh
00:44:02my goodness.
00:44:04Look at
00:44:07this.
00:44:09Lovely elegant bar.
00:44:14Hear the singing.
00:44:16It's just gorgeous.
00:44:23How wonderful is this?
00:44:25This is Japan's
00:44:27answer to the Orient Express.
00:44:29And every last detail
00:44:31has been made as opulent and luxurious
00:44:33as possible.
00:44:35At the back, there's even a huge panoramic
00:44:37window, so when the train's moving,
00:44:39passengers are given a spectacular
00:44:41view.
00:44:43Your own bar.
00:44:45Oh, look at this.
00:44:47This is even more
00:44:49exclusive than the rest of the
00:44:51exclusive carriage.
00:44:53Imagine,
00:44:5526 millionaires and you're
00:44:57the one billionaire. Go away.
00:45:01This is probably the most
00:45:03luxurious train in the world.
00:45:05Only 30 passengers a time
00:45:07have the privilege of travelling in it.
00:45:09So as I'm heading north
00:45:11on my journey around the world,
00:45:13why don't I do it in
00:45:15absolute style on this
00:45:17magnificent train?
00:45:21ยฃ10,000 a
00:45:23ticket, that's why.
00:45:25Bye!
00:45:27One of Japan's
00:45:29national symbols is the
00:45:31samurai, the legendary
00:45:33sword-wielding warriors.
00:45:35I'm crossing the island of Kyushu
00:45:37to visit Kumamoto,
00:45:39where the samurai made their last
00:45:41stand against the Imperial Army
00:45:43150 years ago.
00:45:45The area is still home
00:45:47to one of the last remaining
00:45:49master swordsmiths.
00:45:51Matsunaga Genrokuro
00:45:53has been making this
00:45:55famous weapon for 40 years.
00:46:01Some swords can fetch up to
00:46:03ยฃ10,000, but I'm being
00:46:05given the chance to use one
00:46:07and getting a lesson in the
00:46:09ancient art of swordsmanship.
00:46:15I'm not quite sure
00:46:17what's happening at the moment.
00:46:19As soon as I walked in here,
00:46:21two people kind of mugged me
00:46:23and took my shoes off
00:46:25and put me on here.
00:46:29In the past,
00:46:31the samurai knights would have tested
00:46:33their swords on human flesh,
00:46:35but that might be a bit messy,
00:46:37so today we're using rolled-up bamboo mats.
00:46:45Although the samurai lost their power
00:46:47in the 1800s, the strict
00:46:49code of honour that they lived by
00:46:51still shapes Japanese culture,
00:46:53emphasising courage,
00:46:55loyalty and self-denial.
00:46:57It seems there's
00:46:59a similarly tough set of rules
00:47:01for me to follow today.
00:47:05If only I could understand them.
00:47:09I've no idea what he's saying.
00:47:13It's just somebody
00:47:15talking in a foreign language
00:47:17while I hold a deadly weapon.
00:47:21High speed.
00:47:23High speed.
00:47:25The question is,
00:47:27can I cut it as a samurai?
00:47:35Well, it died.
00:47:45Look, let's go again
00:47:47and let's do it properly this time!
00:47:52Oh, it fell!
00:47:54It fell!
00:47:58Get in, my son!
00:48:00Finally, I'm on a roll.
00:48:06Yeah, alright, if I do this one in slow motion.
00:48:15Obi-Wan Kenobi!
00:48:22It's time
00:48:24for the Shinkansen.
00:48:26Or to you and me, the bullet train.
00:48:31Just look at it.
00:48:33This is a thoroughbred.
00:48:37Oh, won't you look at this?
00:48:41Don't you just want to give it a handful of grass
00:48:43or something?
00:48:47It's so ridiculous.
00:48:49This bullet train is so
00:48:51ultra sophisticated
00:48:53and kind of sexy
00:48:55and animalistic
00:48:57on the outside.
00:48:59Inside, it's just a train.
00:49:01Just another train.
00:49:03A bit disappointing, really.
00:49:05But it is a train
00:49:07that goes up to 200 miles per hour.
00:49:09The Shinkansen
00:49:11was the world's first
00:49:13high speed commercial rail line.
00:49:15Opening over 50 years ago in 1964,
00:49:17it was the fastest train
00:49:19on the planet.
00:49:21Now, the network covers the length and breadth
00:49:23of Japan, with over a thousand
00:49:25scheduled journeys per day.
00:49:27So far from being something special,
00:49:29for the Japanese commuters,
00:49:31it's become just ordinary.
00:49:33The bullet train is taking me on
00:49:35to Kyoto, covering 400
00:49:37miles in less than three hours.
00:49:39That's the same distance
00:49:41as London to Edinburgh,
00:49:43but nearly twice as fast.
00:49:45From Kyoto, I'm making a detour
00:49:47and stopping off in Wakayama.
00:49:53All over the world, remote railway lines
00:49:55struggle to stay in business.
00:49:57But the Wakayama Electric Railway
00:49:59came up with a uniquely Japanese
00:50:01way to save their local train.
00:50:05The railway is now a huge success
00:50:07and it's all thanks to cats.
00:50:09Good Lord.
00:50:11Is this cat stuffed?
00:50:13Oh, it's moved!
00:50:15It's alive!
00:50:17I thought you were showing me
00:50:19a dead cat.
00:50:21Why is she here?
00:50:29Working as a stationmaster.
00:50:31Can we have a closer look at her?
00:50:33Let's go.
00:50:35Let's ride on.
00:50:37These cute cats
00:50:39have become big business.
00:50:41They're believed to have contributed
00:50:43nearly six million pounds to Wakayama's
00:50:45economy. A stray cat
00:50:47called Tama was first made
00:50:49an honorary stationmaster in
00:50:512007.
00:50:53The idea quickly captured the public's
00:50:55imagination, and the arrival of new
00:50:57passengers helped bring the line
00:50:59back into profit.
00:51:01Tama's successor, Nitama,
00:51:03is still drawing in the crowds.
00:51:05Are you a tourist?
00:51:07Yes, from Texas.
00:51:09And you came all the way to meet the cat?
00:51:11Yes. Well, we came to Japan,
00:51:13but I did make a special trip out here
00:51:15while I was in Japan to come out here.
00:51:17Did you know about
00:51:19this cat already?
00:51:21Yes. I really liked Tama, so I
00:51:23painted Tama, and so then I wanted
00:51:25to come and meet Nitama.
00:51:27You're a little bit obsessed, aren't you?
00:51:29I love cats, so, yeah.
00:51:31Tell me what you know about Tama.
00:51:33When she passed away, she was
00:51:35enshrined as a goddess.
00:51:37She was what, did you just say?
00:51:39She was elevated
00:51:41to a goddess status.
00:51:43This has gone far beyond a successful PR
00:51:45stunt. The cats have
00:51:47taken on a big significance for the people of
00:51:49Wakayama. When the
00:51:51first Tama died in 2015,
00:51:533,000 people
00:51:55came to her funeral.
00:51:57There's two
00:51:59stories going on here, aren't there?
00:52:01One is, you had this
00:52:03failing railway line losing
00:52:05loads of money.
00:52:07They got rid of all the staff
00:52:09in their station. Someone had this
00:52:11crazy idea of getting
00:52:13a stray cat to become the station
00:52:15master. It went viral,
00:52:17turned the company's fortunes
00:52:19around, and
00:52:21there was a happy ending.
00:52:23But there's a second story, too.
00:52:25This is
00:52:27a Shinto shrine.
00:52:29Before I
00:52:31do anything here, I have to bow
00:52:33twice, clap,
00:52:35bow again,
00:52:37pray, or ring
00:52:39the bell. This shrine
00:52:41is dedicated to that
00:52:43cat. These two
00:52:45representations here
00:52:47are of the cat
00:52:49who has become a deity,
00:52:51a god now,
00:52:53within this shrine.
00:52:55It says something about the relationship
00:52:57between the Japanese
00:52:59and animals
00:53:01that I don't quite understand.
00:53:05So it appears that in Shintoism,
00:53:07Japan's traditional religion,
00:53:09this cat can become a goddess
00:53:11simply because she brought such
00:53:13good fortune to the railway.
00:53:15Coming up...
00:53:17Tokyo.
00:53:19Oh, look at this!
00:53:21From neon nightlife...
00:53:23Hardly anyone is looking at him. There's Godzilla!
00:53:25...to street-style makeovers.
00:53:27This is quite liberating, actually. It's like being
00:53:29in drag.
00:53:37I'm halfway through my rail
00:53:39journey across Japan.
00:53:41It's 300 miles to my next
00:53:43stop, Tokyo.
00:53:45By bullet train, it takes just
00:53:47two and a half hours, through some of Japan's
00:53:49most famous scenery.
00:53:51I asked the woman who was
00:53:53collecting the tickets if we would see
00:53:55Mount Fuji, and she said,
00:53:57yes, at 10.56.
00:53:59Well, it's 10.56 now.
00:54:03There it is.
00:54:07It's incredibly symmetrical, isn't it?
00:54:09In Japan,
00:54:11even nature is neat and precise.
00:54:13The railways in Japan
00:54:15are famous for their punctuality.
00:54:17The average delay for these bullet trains
00:54:19is just 54 seconds.
00:54:21And this is one of the busiest
00:54:23lines in the world. During peak
00:54:25times, a train arrives every
00:54:27five minutes, meaning the Shinkansen
00:54:29service to Tokyo can be more
00:54:31frequent than some lines on the London Underground.
00:54:33But now this is going to be a real
00:54:35gear change. I'm heading for
00:54:37Tokyo.
00:54:39The bright lights, the big city.
00:54:41Cartoons.
00:54:43Lots of people going like that for their selfies.
00:54:47I'm not quite sure to expect.
00:54:49In my mind's eye, it's a bit
00:54:51like a kind of hyped-up version of Blade
00:54:53Runner, but
00:54:55whatever it's going to be like, I'm really
00:54:57excited.
00:54:59The capital
00:55:01handles 13 billion passenger
00:55:03rail trips every year.
00:55:05Not so surprising, given Tokyo
00:55:07is the world's most populated city,
00:55:09home to 37
00:55:11million people.
00:55:13The hyper-developed
00:55:15city I expected is easy
00:55:17to find. You can get a
00:55:19hot cuppa in a can.
00:55:21Cafรฉ au lait
00:55:23sounds all right, doesn't it?
00:55:25Here it comes, straight away. And it's
00:55:27piping hot.
00:55:29For businessmen
00:55:31working long hours, there's the
00:55:33capsule hotel.
00:55:37Even the taxis are
00:55:39high-tech.
00:55:41These doors close on their own.
00:55:43Watch.
00:55:47But to really get a feel
00:55:49for Tokyo, it's best to experience
00:55:51it at night. I'm heading
00:55:53to Shinjuku, an area
00:55:55famous for its nightlife.
00:55:57As the sun goes down, the city
00:55:59lights up in neon.
00:56:07What's going on here? To try and make sense
00:56:09of the madness, I'm meeting up with Yumi
00:56:11for a whistle-stop tour.
00:56:13She's Tokyo-born
00:56:15and bred, and is an expert on life
00:56:17in the capital.
00:56:19Did you see Godzilla up there?
00:56:21Oh, yes. Hey, look, look, look, look, look.
00:56:23I love the fact that hardly anybody's
00:56:25looking at him. It's Godzilla.
00:56:27Ooh.
00:56:29Oh, look at this.
00:56:31I've been to some of the biggest
00:56:33cities in the world, but Tokyo
00:56:35at night is something else.
00:56:37You don't have to do anything.
00:56:39No, this is just a photo booth.
00:56:41With blinding lights and wall-to-wall
00:56:43noise everywhere, it's an overwhelming
00:56:45assault on the senses.
00:56:47Some people are, like,
00:56:49super-pro, like this.
00:56:54The Japanese do cute
00:56:56like no other culture I know, don't they?
00:56:58Oh, yeah, we're taking it a whole other level.
00:57:00Look at that. That is so cute, it makes me want
00:57:02to vomit.
00:57:05And, of course,
00:57:07anime. You cannot forget
00:57:09the anime culture of Tokyo.
00:57:13This is the stress relief.
00:57:15You just, like, flip the
00:57:17table over, and
00:57:19then you measure how
00:57:21annoyed you are, you know, how stressed
00:57:23you are. When you touch it,
00:57:25that's gonna increase the anger.
00:57:30And you flip it.
00:57:32Oh, that went!
00:57:34There you go!
00:57:36I gotcha!
00:57:43In a city this crowded,
00:57:45space is at a premium.
00:57:47And old neighbourhoods are
00:57:49right up against new ones.
00:57:51This is so pretty.
00:57:53Yes, this street is called
00:57:55Omoide Yokocho.
00:57:57In English, it's Memory Lane.
00:57:59It is brilliant, isn't it?
00:58:02It's just amazing how tiny
00:58:04every shop is.
00:58:06It's just so tiny.
00:58:08And they're all so full.
00:58:10Yes.
00:58:14It's just like
00:58:16old Japan.
00:58:18In one of the world's busiest cities,
00:58:20many people wear face masks.
00:58:22And I'd always assumed it was for hygiene reasons.
00:58:24And while that may be true for a lot of people,
00:58:26it seems for some,
00:58:28there's another more subtle reason.
00:58:30Japanese people, we're all concerned
00:58:32about what others think about ourselves.
00:58:34So we always
00:58:36try to keep our reputation
00:58:38as the best as we could.
00:58:40And that's why we cover
00:58:42the face.
00:58:44Because if you're wearing a mask,
00:58:46actually nobody can see what you look like or how you feel.
00:58:48So they can't think bad things about you.
00:58:50Exactly!
00:58:52I want to go up to someone with a mask and say,
00:58:54it's alright, lighten up.
00:58:56We haven't even noticed you.
00:58:58We're not worried about who you are.
00:59:02So we don't want to stand out
00:59:04from the same community.
00:59:06So there's a harmony
00:59:08in the whole culture,
00:59:10in Japanese culture.
00:59:12And we respect that harmony,
00:59:14maybe too much.
00:59:16I find that really fascinating.
00:59:18Because for me, as an old hippie,
00:59:20harmony is something beautiful,
00:59:22something to be worked for, something to be attained.
00:59:24But what you're saying is,
00:59:26it actually can mean,
00:59:28don't rock the boat.
00:59:30Yeah, exactly.
00:59:32Because it's so important to fit in
00:59:34to Japanese society,
00:59:36many people work hard to conform
00:59:38to what's expected of them.
00:59:40Perhaps the most famous example of this
00:59:42are the suited salary men,
00:59:44the white-collar employees
00:59:46who sacrifice everything
00:59:48in service of their companies.
00:59:50And Tokyo is the centre
00:59:52of this demanding work culture.
00:59:54But not everyone here wants to wear a suit.
01:00:00Oh, I like that.
01:00:02Yeah, love it.
01:00:04Oh, great.
01:00:08This is Harajuku,
01:00:10a Tokyo neighbourhood known
01:00:12for its unusual street fashion.
01:00:14Let's try a couple of different jackets.
01:00:16I'm really fond of this one.
01:00:18Wow.
01:00:20I think that might be a little much, though.
01:00:22Jun Yan, a designer,
01:00:24and Emily, originally from America,
01:00:26are giving me a makeover
01:00:28in the cute and colourful Harajuku style.
01:00:30And the monster.
01:00:32Definitely need a monster.
01:00:38Thank you very much.
01:00:40I'm being heckled
01:00:42by an Englishman.
01:00:44If you feel like it doesn't match, you're doing it right.
01:00:46Do you feel appropriately Harajuku'd?
01:00:48It's quite liberating, actually.
01:00:50It's like being in drag.
01:00:52Suddenly it's a completely different you.
01:00:54Shall we hit town?
01:00:56Yeah, let's take it on a test run.
01:01:00The Harajuku theme
01:01:02is taken to a new level
01:01:04at the local Monster Cafe.
01:01:10Absolutely everything
01:01:12is decorated in the kawaii style,
01:01:14the Japanese word for cute.
01:01:16Harajuku
01:01:18is home to one of Japan's
01:01:20many inventive subcultures,
01:01:22popular with young people
01:01:24who want to go against the grain.
01:01:26Adulthood in Japan
01:01:28has very specific tenets.
01:01:30You get married,
01:01:32you have children,
01:01:34you work for 40 years,
01:01:36you retire.
01:01:38And for a lot of people,
01:01:40especially during the 80s and 90s,
01:01:42immediately after the economy,
01:01:44like the bubble burst,
01:01:46they were disillusioned.
01:01:48And that life is still something
01:01:50that a lot of young people
01:01:52just don't either want or can't achieve.
01:01:54And so, kind of a kickback
01:01:56from that very deliberate,
01:01:58elegant, keep-things-to-yourself
01:02:00kind of adulthood,
01:02:02you get stuff like this.
01:02:04You get this explosion
01:02:06of childhood fantasy.
01:02:08So this is the absolute
01:02:10alternative of the
01:02:12multinational company
01:02:14that you go into when you're 18.
01:02:16You serve it 16 hours a day
01:02:18until you're 65.
01:02:20Yeah.
01:02:22Most of Japan's subcultures
01:02:24are really kicking back against that
01:02:26daily grind.
01:02:28Which is what punk was doing in the 70s.
01:02:30Exactly. It's a very similar motivation.
01:02:32Actually, a lot of
01:02:34subcultures here in Harajuku
01:02:36were born from late teens,
01:02:38early 20-year-olds going,
01:02:40I don't want to be a corporate person.
01:02:42I don't want to work only
01:02:44for the rest of my life.
01:02:46I want to enjoy something else.
01:02:48There were people who felt much more comfortable
01:02:50dressing up
01:02:52and feeling that security
01:02:54from being childish,
01:02:56from enjoying the times
01:02:58when you didn't have the responsibilities
01:03:00of working for everything.
01:03:02I've just realized that
01:03:04it is simply another aspect
01:03:06of being Japanese, isn't it?
01:03:08In a funny sort of way,
01:03:10it's really retreating,
01:03:12it's gentle.
01:03:14I understand now
01:03:16why some of Tokyo's young people
01:03:18want to look as different as possible
01:03:20from the suited salary men.
01:03:22Just like the hippies and the punks,
01:03:24they're refusing to conform.
01:03:26It's just that they're doing it with colourful clothes
01:03:28and childish characters.
01:03:30But Harajuku style
01:03:32is just one part of Japan's huge
01:03:34pop culture scene,
01:03:36which is now world famous.
01:03:38From anime cartoons
01:03:40to J-pop music to video games,
01:03:42something about Japan's
01:03:44cute and quirky inventions
01:03:46has captured imaginations
01:03:48far beyond Tokyo.
01:03:50That was just the most
01:03:52extraordinary morning.
01:03:54Incredible confrontation
01:03:56with a new pop culture
01:03:58that I knew
01:04:00absolutely nothing about.
01:04:02I suppose one of the really good things
01:04:04about pop culture
01:04:06is it's young people looking
01:04:08at the previous generation
01:04:10and doing something
01:04:12completely opposite.
01:04:14So there's been this incredibly
01:04:16oppressive, international
01:04:18capitalist
01:04:20series of organisations
01:04:22that have dominated Japan
01:04:24since the 1970s.
01:04:26And the sons and daughters of the people
01:04:28who worked in them are saying,
01:04:30well, we don't want to do that.
01:04:34I'm rejoining the rails
01:04:36and leaving Tokyo.
01:04:38I've just noticed that the train
01:04:40which has come in and is now
01:04:42going to go back out again,
01:04:44they've swivelled the seats,
01:04:46all of them, around 180 degrees
01:04:48so everyone's going to be facing
01:04:50the right way. That's so cool.
01:04:54From the capital,
01:04:56I'm travelling 200 miles
01:04:58to the coastal town of Sendai.
01:05:00I'm on the Tohoku Shinkansen,
01:05:02the bullet train line
01:05:04running to the top of Japan's
01:05:06main island, Honshu.
01:05:08We're heading north,
01:05:10but we've stopped off for a moment
01:05:12at Sendai Station.
01:05:14Do you hear those birds?
01:05:16They're not actually birds.
01:05:18It's just an electronic recording.
01:05:20It's Japan.
01:05:24This recorded bird song is apparently
01:05:26designed to guide blind people
01:05:28to the exits, another example
01:05:30of Japanese attention to detail.
01:05:3445 minutes from Sendai Station
01:05:36is Matsushima Bay,
01:05:38one of Japan's most scenic places.
01:05:42You get such a sense here
01:05:44of Japan as an island.
01:05:46Or rather, as islands.
01:05:48There's about 8,000 altogether.
01:05:50270-odd in this bay alone.
01:05:54These little islands are so pretty,
01:05:56aren't they? They're like something
01:05:58out of a Japanese painting.
01:06:00Because Japan's got so many islands,
01:06:02it wasn't always easy
01:06:04to connect up the country by rail.
01:06:06In 1988, there was an important
01:06:08breakthrough when the Seikan
01:06:10Tunnel opened, connecting the
01:06:12main island of Honshu with Hokkaido,
01:06:14an engineering masterpiece.
01:06:16Today, it remains the world's
01:06:18longest and deepest
01:06:20undersea rail tunnel.
01:06:22My journey ends at Hakodate,
01:06:24the northern terminal of the bullet train.
01:06:26I don't think I'd ever realise
01:06:28just how long Japan actually is.
01:06:30It's 1,800 miles
01:06:32from top to bottom.
01:06:34Remember, a week ago, I was sunning
01:06:36myself in the black sand
01:06:38right down south.
01:06:40And today,
01:06:42welcome to northern Japan.
01:06:50This region is the seafood capital
01:06:52of Japan, known for its
01:06:54huge variety of local fish.
01:07:04Ken Hasegawa,
01:07:06a sushi chef with 20 years
01:07:08in the business, is making me lunch.
01:07:18And I'm being joined by Kay,
01:07:20a Hakodate local.
01:07:22The world's worst person
01:07:24with chopsticks.
01:07:26Is this the right thing to do?
01:07:28You're laughing at me.
01:07:30If you want.
01:07:34Another thing about the Japanese
01:07:36is that they're not only
01:07:38polite, but
01:07:40a lot of the time,
01:07:42they're very humble.
01:07:44We think it's a kind of virtue
01:07:46to be sort of humble,
01:07:48to be reserved.
01:07:50In Japanese society,
01:07:52a tall tree catches much wind.
01:07:54A tall tree catches much wind.
01:07:56And also,
01:07:58we are trying to live in harmony
01:08:00with each other.
01:08:02To be in harmony with nature,
01:08:04to be in harmony with the people around you,
01:08:06is very, very important.
01:08:08So in that case, if you just insist
01:08:10your own opinion, it might offend other people.
01:08:12That might be a little bit
01:08:14coward in a way,
01:08:16but we prefer to be a reserved
01:08:18attitude like this.
01:08:24This is my favorite so far.
01:08:30Japan has felt very foreign
01:08:32to me.
01:08:34And there's still parts of the culture that I can't get my head around.
01:08:36I don't know if I'll ever quite
01:08:38understand the dressing up
01:08:40and the love of all things cute.
01:08:42But talking to Japanese
01:08:44people, I've learned how
01:08:46hard this society works
01:08:48to be harmonious in everything.
01:08:50And I admire that.
01:08:52I love their attention to detail.
01:08:54The way that every little garden
01:08:56needs to be so well kept.
01:08:58The food on the plate has to be
01:09:00so neat and well ordered.
01:09:02Even when you're being
01:09:04given the bill by the man in the hotel,
01:09:06the way he does it
01:09:08is so polite and just exquisite.
01:09:10And I've learned
01:09:12how to smile and nod
01:09:14and bow, just about.
01:09:16I know when you're supposed to take your
01:09:18shoes off and when you're supposed to put
01:09:20them back on again. In fact,
01:09:22if I've learned anything at all from this Japanese
01:09:24trip, it's the back home.
01:09:26I really am a bit
01:09:28of a slob.
01:09:36Coming up, I'm in the United States
01:09:38where I continue my adventure
01:09:40on some of the world's greatest train
01:09:42routes. From California
01:09:44and Colorado to America's
01:09:46deep south. New Orleans
01:09:48and the Big Apple
01:09:50where I explore behind the scenes
01:09:52of the largest railway station
01:09:54in the world. It's extraordinary.
01:10:02So finally
01:10:04I've made it to the United States.
01:10:08It's the beginning of a great journey
01:10:10that's going to take me from the wild west
01:10:12to the iconic east, across California
01:10:14to Colorado, Louisiana
01:10:16and finally New York.
01:10:18But the line starts here
01:10:20in San Francisco, California.
01:10:22Home to around
01:10:2440 million people, it's the most
01:10:26popular state in the US.
01:10:28And it's also the starting point
01:10:30for one of the world's most classic railway
01:10:32journeys called the California Zephyr.
01:10:34It's a legendary train
01:10:36opened in 1949
01:10:38to go from San Francisco
01:10:40to Chicago. And it was the
01:10:42first transcontinental train
01:10:44ever to sacrifice speed
01:10:46for scenery.
01:10:48Since the beginning
01:10:50the Zephyr was known for its
01:10:52trademark carriages with glass
01:10:54domes that allowed a 360
01:10:56degree view.
01:11:02In the early days this scenic route
01:11:04was a success.
01:11:06But by the 60s increases
01:11:08in air and road travel were bringing
01:11:10passenger numbers down.
01:11:12And the famous train was discontinued
01:11:14for over 10 years.
01:11:16But before I make
01:11:18it to Denver, there's one place
01:11:20I've always wanted to see.
01:11:26I love it
01:11:28when you get off a train and you're
01:11:30immediately confronted with the completely
01:11:32unexpected. I only have to walk
01:11:34half a dozen steps and
01:11:36immediately I'm in
01:11:38Sacramento as it would have been
01:11:40in the middle of the 19th century
01:11:42when it was a rich, powerful
01:11:44confident city.
01:11:50Like so many places
01:11:52in California, Sacramento
01:11:54was founded during the California Gold
01:11:56Rush. One of the greatest
01:11:58events of 19th century America.
01:12:00Thousands of prospective
01:12:02miners traveled here in the
01:12:04hope of making a fortune.
01:12:06So it's an incredibly
01:12:08prosperous gold town. Banks,
01:12:10barbers, brothels,
01:12:12everybody making money.
01:12:14Then in 1861, 1862
01:12:16there was a gargantuan
01:12:18flood. Suddenly there was
01:12:20a lake 300 miles long
01:12:22by 20 miles wide
01:12:24where there'd been no lake before.
01:12:26And it decimated this town.
01:12:28So what did the city fathers
01:12:30do? Did they decide to junk it
01:12:32and start again? No.
01:12:34Their plan was to raise
01:12:36the whole town up
01:12:38between 14 and
01:12:4010 feet in order to protect it
01:12:42in future. And that's what they did.
01:12:46Thanks to this ingenuity,
01:12:48Sacramento's importance grew.
01:12:50And now it's the state capital of
01:12:52California, which I didn't know till
01:12:54today.
01:12:56But I've got to keep moving.
01:12:58Denver's still a thousand miles down the line.
01:13:00And I want to relax
01:13:02and enjoy the beautiful scenery.
01:13:04But my film crew
01:13:06keep interrupting me.
01:13:08That's great, Tony.
01:13:10And then almost the same thing but with your hand
01:13:12down. Oh, for goodness
01:13:14sake.
01:13:18My epic journey across the United States
01:13:20has brought me to the exquisite
01:13:22Rocky Mountains.
01:13:24They're America's longest
01:13:26mountain range, crossing the continent
01:13:28from Canada all the way south
01:13:30to New Mexico.
01:13:32And with the arrival of the railways
01:13:34in the 19th century, they suddenly
01:13:36became accessible to everyone.
01:13:38My next
01:13:40stop is Colorado in the
01:13:42Wild West. Because to me,
01:13:44a journey across America wouldn't be complete
01:13:46without one thing.
01:13:48Cowboys.
01:13:50This is ranching country
01:13:52and this is a
01:13:54ranch. What's a ranch?
01:13:56By definition, it's a workplace,
01:13:58isn't it? Just like a factory floor
01:14:00or a building site.
01:14:02I'm heading to a place
01:14:04called a dude ranch.
01:14:06That means a working ranch that's also
01:14:08a luxury resort.
01:14:10People will pay thousands
01:14:12of pounds a week to come here
01:14:14and dress up like one of the workers.
01:14:16But why?
01:14:18What's the attraction?
01:14:25Tony!
01:14:27Hi, mate.
01:14:29The man who runs it is David Craig.
01:14:31This kind of ranch
01:14:33has been going on for more than a century,
01:14:35hasn't it? Well, this ranch itself
01:14:37has been here for 99 years.
01:14:39As a dude ranch? That's right. In fact, the first
01:14:41slogan was, all you can eat is steak and apple pie
01:14:43and bear hunting.
01:14:45A hundred years ago, the word dude
01:14:47had a different meaning to today.
01:14:49It's what western
01:14:51cattle ranchers called the city slickers
01:14:53who came here on holiday.
01:14:55These are
01:14:57traditional western chaps.
01:14:59I'm going to walk around this side.
01:15:03I'm not being fresh here.
01:15:05Do you feel kind of cool?
01:15:07Like you're a bit of a badass, right?
01:15:09I do. I feel very much of a badass.
01:15:11This is what dude ranching
01:15:13is all about.
01:15:15A five foot five little bloke
01:15:17puts on this stuff and feels
01:15:19like he's Clint Eastwood.
01:15:21No, I just want to look at the camera like this
01:15:23just for a little bit longer.
01:15:29The chaps
01:15:31are falling off.
01:15:33They're practically around my ankles already.
01:15:35As soon as I started to walk,
01:15:37I felt that long slither
01:15:39down my leg.
01:15:41I think that's a bit better.
01:15:43That's beautiful.
01:15:51A true cowboy
01:15:53needs a horse.
01:15:55Give me your darkest stallion.
01:15:57We're off into
01:15:59the real American wilderness.
01:16:01You can see
01:16:03mountains for days.
01:16:05That's the best part of Colorado
01:16:07because it's so expansive.
01:16:09If you look all around us,
01:16:11there's just mountains and mountains
01:16:13and mountains. It's so awesome.
01:16:17This takes me right back
01:16:19to the Hollywood westerns that I grew up with
01:16:21where stars like John Wayne
01:16:23glamorized this iconic way of life.
01:16:27I love the fact that you're actually paid
01:16:29to do this.
01:16:31Me too. It's a dream.
01:16:33People have been paid for well over a hundred years
01:16:35just to take idiots like me
01:16:37out into the countryside
01:16:39pretending to be a cowboy.
01:16:53I'm continuing my whistle-stop
01:16:55journey through the United States
01:16:57and I'm now heading for New Orleans.
01:17:03Some of the stations here are so small
01:17:05that all the passengers get off and on
01:17:07at the one door.
01:17:11In a culture obsessed
01:17:13with cars, the railway network
01:17:15is surprisingly comprehensive
01:17:17with regular intercity
01:17:19and cross-country services.
01:17:23Although I've never really
01:17:25understood why the US doesn't have
01:17:27a high-speed railway network
01:17:29like the ones in Japan or Germany.
01:17:37New Orleans.
01:17:39What I hadn't expected was that as soon
01:17:41as I got out of the train
01:17:43it would feel so different from any other city
01:17:45in the US that I've been to so far.
01:17:47The light's different,
01:17:49it smells different
01:17:51and it's so muggy it feels as though
01:17:53the whole city's sticking to me already.
01:17:55This is called a second-line parade.
01:17:57This isn't for anything,
01:17:59this is just what people do
01:18:01on a Sunday.
01:18:05The tradition of second-line parades
01:18:07goes back to 19th century funeral marches
01:18:09which were a celebration
01:18:11in honour of life lost.
01:18:15This is the first time
01:18:17I've ever seen a parade like this.
01:18:19It's the first time I've ever seen
01:18:21a parade like this.
01:18:23In honour of life lost.
01:18:25And really, apart from the fact
01:18:27that there's no coffins and no dead persons
01:18:29being carried, this is pretty much
01:18:31how the funeral marches
01:18:33would have been.
01:18:35And they reckon that this strutting
01:18:37style that they do
01:18:39and this whole idea of marching
01:18:41comes
01:18:43from their African roots
01:18:45and this is an echo
01:18:47of what people used to do
01:18:49way back in time.
01:18:53This is what we're...
01:18:55Yeah, that's it, yeah.
01:18:57There you go.
01:18:59Yeah, it's all about the feet.
01:19:01There you go.
01:19:07See, when they do those different
01:19:09songs and stuff, you have to catch that beat.
01:19:11This comes out of
01:19:13the parades that they used to have in funerals.
01:19:15Do you still have parades when people die?
01:19:17Yes, they just had a parade
01:19:19for Rita Franklin. Oh my God,
01:19:21the second line they had for Prince
01:19:23was amazing. They had the purple caskets,
01:19:25the purple cars,
01:19:27people dressed in purple.
01:19:29So it's different second lines that they have
01:19:31and that's when you have different brass bands come out,
01:19:33different social clubs come out,
01:19:35different people celebrating
01:19:37New Orleans and how much they love
01:19:39to play. And they celebrate the African
01:19:41culture of New Orleans.
01:19:43MUSIC
01:19:49Should we stop now?
01:19:53Flash storms like this
01:19:55are typical of this part of America
01:19:57and in 2005
01:19:59Hurricane Katrina was an extreme
01:20:01example of the power these rains
01:20:03can have. Local musician Winston
01:20:05Turner was here.
01:20:07I took it for granted just living here, growing up in it
01:20:09that, you know, the culture would never leave, but
01:20:11And after Hurricane Katrina, we were actually able to look at the city underwater.
01:20:17That's when we realised, man, this is a possibility that it may not come back.
01:20:22Oh, you really felt that?
01:20:26Yeah.
01:20:29Hurricane Katrina left over a million people homeless.
01:20:33As the population of New Orleans fled, the city's very existence was called into question.
01:20:40Everything that you knew was just displaced.
01:20:43It took me maybe three to four weeks to find my own mom.
01:20:47Your own mom?
01:20:48Yeah, because we thought, we're just going to leave and we'll be back.
01:20:52We were really displaced.
01:20:54So when I found out I'm in South Dakota, and there's a New Orleans band performing, I would
01:20:58do whatever I had to do to get there.
01:21:00Because it was somewhere that you could go and be with people that express the same hurt,
01:21:06the same feeling, the same love of something that you felt.
01:21:17The city is 90% recovered, and its spirit is as strong as ever.
01:21:24It's time for me to continue my journey to my final destination.
01:21:30There's a direct train that runs daily from New Orleans to New York.
01:21:37It takes 30 hours, and it's called the Crescent.
01:21:41It arrives in Penn Station, but a quick subway ride brings you to what's maybe the most impressive
01:21:48station in the US.
01:21:52If you're going to go round the world on trains, you've got to come to this place, haven't
01:21:57you?
01:21:58Grand Central Station.
01:21:59The biggest railway station in the whole world.
01:22:03Every day, three quarters of a million people come through these doors.
01:22:08That is the entire population of Nottingham.
01:22:11Well, not literally, the, you know what I mean.
01:22:18Grand Central Station opened in 1913, and the building was an immediate hit.
01:22:25I love it because it's the beating heart of the city, I feel.
01:22:28Concetta Bencivenga from the New York Transit Museum is showing me around.
01:22:32It is the epitome of New York in 1913.
01:22:38It's high camp, isn't it?
01:22:40It's saying, oh, look at me, I'm so elegant, I'm sophisticated.
01:22:44This is like a bridge over the canal in Venice.
01:22:48They really wanted you to have this sense of grandeur, of scale, of arriving, of being
01:22:53in New York.
01:22:56The building may be an architectural masterpiece, but in the 60s and 70s, it fell into disrepair.
01:23:02Tony, can you see that square, that dark square?
01:23:06Oh, right up there, yeah, yeah, yeah.
01:23:08Right there.
01:23:09When they started to save the building, this entire ceiling was hidden by layers and layers
01:23:14of black gunk.
01:23:15That colour?
01:23:16Yes.
01:23:17Wow.
01:23:18It must have been so oppressive here.
01:23:19It was, it was.
01:23:20So that's just a little reminder to everybody, that's how bad it got before it was saved.
01:23:25Restoring Grand Central Station to its original splendour took 20 years.
01:23:31To really appreciate it, Conchetta is giving me some very special access.
01:23:39These were originally constructed, they were meant to be opened for cross ventilation.
01:23:42Oh, with these wonderful cranky chains here to wind them up and down.
01:23:46That's why these were known as the lungs of the building.
01:23:48And they give you just a wonderful picture.
01:23:53It's like a Where's Wally drawing.
01:23:55It's extraordinary.
01:24:03Look, look, Sam, look at that guy over there.
01:24:07I thought he was having a pee.
01:24:10It does look like it.
01:24:11No, I was having a whisper.
01:24:12Oh, yeah.
01:24:13Watch.
01:24:14That's not you.
01:24:15That might be the same thing, yeah, yeah.
01:24:16And this is where you whisper into here.
01:24:18Hello, Tony.
01:24:19Can you hear me?
01:24:20Oh, wow.
01:24:21Yes, I can hear you.
01:24:22My goodness.
01:24:23So this sound travels all the way up, all along the tiles, and down to you over there.
01:24:30Yep.
01:24:31And so it's one of this sort of engineering happy accidents that happened.
01:24:34Because of the three of the arches, it created this lovely whispering walls.
01:24:38You sound like you're one of those recorded guides in a museum.
01:24:44Coming up, I visit New York's largest borough.
01:24:48Come this side.
01:24:49We drive on the other side here.
01:24:50Of course you do.
01:24:51I make a new friend.
01:24:53Tony's already making me take off my clothes.
01:24:55And I do as the locals do on a strange tour of Manhattan.
01:24:59Rubbing the cojones is good luck, Tony.
01:25:07My travels across the United States have brought me to the East Coast, to the Big Apple.
01:25:13Some of this country's earliest railway lines were here.
01:25:17Today, it's got the biggest subway system in the world, with 472 stations.
01:25:22Nearly all of them open 24 hours a day.
01:25:27I want to find out more about the real New York.
01:25:30So I'm heading to a part of the city I've always wanted to visit, but tourists don't usually go to.
01:25:37The 7 train links Manhattan with New York's largest borough.
01:25:42If someone says the words New York to you, what do you think of?
01:25:46Greenwich Village, Broadway, Uptown, Downtown.
01:25:50I bet what you don't think of is Queens.
01:25:53And yet, it's huge.
01:25:55So what's the problem?
01:26:01When the number 7 train opened in Queens over 100 years ago,
01:26:05it sparked a real estate boom that transformed a rural area into a lively neighbourhood.
01:26:11New York party bump.
01:26:12I tell you.
01:26:13The heroes.
01:26:16Tony.
01:26:17Hey.
01:26:18Welcome to Queens.
01:26:19Thank you.
01:26:20The most diverse borough in the world.
01:26:22You see, I had always assumed that it was the epitome of the white working class borough.
01:26:27Well, we speak about 170 languages.
01:26:29About 50% of our residents were born in another country.
01:26:33Queens native Rob McKay has offered to show me around.
01:26:37It's really interesting.
01:26:38Come this side.
01:26:39We drive on the other side there.
01:26:41Of course you do.
01:26:43Whoops.
01:26:46We're following the tracks of the 7 train that runs elevated above us.
01:26:51The line's nickname is the International Express.
01:26:55Right over here we get to what they call Little Manila.
01:26:57That's a Filipino place.
01:26:59You see over there?
01:27:00Chivles.
01:27:01Chinese Peruvian food.
01:27:04Do you have much of a problem with all these different ethnicities all mixed up and coming so recently?
01:27:09So the thing I'm most proud of is how well we all get along.
01:27:12That's Nepalese.
01:27:13The United Sherpa Association of America has its headquarters over there.
01:27:17So that's Ecuadorian.
01:27:18Remember, in Ecuador, in the mountains, they eat Cuy, you know, guinea pigs.
01:27:22They will tell you that it's the best meat because the guinea pigs eat nothing but alfalfa.
01:27:26Will you stop talking about the guinea pigs?
01:27:28Well, if you had one, you'd be a downer.
01:27:30I've had them in little cages.
01:27:31Oh, you've had them.
01:27:32OK.
01:27:33I've loved them.
01:27:34OK.
01:27:35I hope cinnamon and nutmeg aren't watching.
01:27:37You know, it is extraordinary.
01:27:38I've spent months going round the world in trains,
01:27:42seeing all these different kinds of faces.
01:27:44I might as well have saved myself the trouble.
01:27:46If I'd stayed in Queens, I would have seen exactly the same variety of people.
01:27:54There's another thing Queens is famous for.
01:27:56It's the birthplace of the current president.
01:28:00It's the birthplace of the current president.
01:28:02It's the birthplace of the current president.
01:28:04It's the birthplace of the current president.
01:28:07These days, he's got a place in the middle of Manhattan.
01:28:15This is the Trump Tower, owned, of course, by Donald Trump.
01:28:19Now, this isn't a political programme, so I just want to talk about the architecture.
01:28:23I think that is the foulest building in the whole of Manhattan.
01:28:28I think it's absolutely obscene.
01:28:30I think it should be demolished brick by brick.
01:28:34Those bricks should be ground to dust.
01:28:36That dust should be flushed down the drain and eaten by rats.
01:28:42But that's the architecture about the president.
01:28:45I've got nothing to say, really.
01:28:47It seems fine.
01:28:51The Trump Tower is just one of thousands of tall buildings here.
01:28:55Manhattan skyscrapers are rising even higher as we speak.
01:28:59This skyline is absolutely unique, isn't it?
01:29:03It is awe-inspiring, always.
01:29:06Luke Miller is a third-generation New Yorker.
01:29:09Pull up your...
01:29:10Oh, man, Tony's already making me take off my clothes.
01:29:13Look at that. Isn't that extraordinary?
01:29:15You are going to so regret that in 30 years' time,
01:29:18and I'm telling you that as a father.
01:29:20Anyway, what's happening here?
01:29:22This is crazy.
01:29:23This is literally the largest development project
01:29:26in our country's history.
01:29:28These skyscrapers are being built
01:29:30on top of some of New York's old rail yards.
01:29:33The apartments, restaurants and public spaces
01:29:36will form a city within a city.
01:29:38How much do you reckon that's going to cost?
01:29:41$25 billion is where they're at.
01:29:43$25 billion!
01:29:45It reminds us that we can reach for the sky.
01:29:48If you've got enough money.
01:29:50What's this crowd doing up here?
01:29:52So, this 7,000-pound bronze bull
01:29:55was sculpted by an Italian artist named Arturo De Monaco.
01:29:59It's a gift to New York and represents a bull market,
01:30:02a strong market.
01:30:03And everybody does this?
01:30:04Yes, rubbing the cojones is good luck, Tony.
01:30:07I do this now?
01:30:08Yeah, you'll see all the brokers doing it
01:30:10on the way to work every morning.
01:30:12It's amazing.
01:30:13It's amazing.
01:30:14It's amazing.
01:30:15It's amazing.
01:30:16It's amazing.
01:30:17It's amazing.
01:30:18It's amazing.
01:30:19I can feel the magic happening.
01:30:24It's clearly worked for some people.
01:30:26After all, New York has got more billionaires
01:30:29than any other city in the world.
01:30:31Presumably, this is the beginning of Times Square.
01:30:34Yeah.
01:30:35Whether it is Monday night or Saturday night,
01:30:38these crowds are here.
01:30:41This is the original New York Times building.
01:30:44So, Times Square gets its name from the New York Times.
01:30:47And you lived around here when you were a kid?
01:30:49Yeah.
01:30:50So, I am one of five boys.
01:30:51Ricky, Nicky, Timmy, Lukey and Ollie is the whole lot of us
01:30:54and grew up with a single mom raising us.
01:30:56And what was the area like around here?
01:30:58Yeah, I mean, this area was run down,
01:31:00crime infested, drug infested.
01:31:02I mean, 42nd Street was lined with drug dealers,
01:31:05pimps, prostitutes.
01:31:06I mean, when I walk through here today,
01:31:08I mean, it's just mind-blowing how this has changed.
01:31:12And that's the thing about New York.
01:31:14This is a city of aspiration.
01:31:16People have always come here hoping for a better life.
01:31:20Can you imagine, Tony, seeing this symbol?
01:31:23You're tired, you're poor,
01:31:24your huddled mass is yearning to breathe free.
01:31:26And you still believe in that stuff?
01:31:28Well, you do.
01:31:29I mean, a part of you does, doesn't it?
01:31:31Yeah.
01:31:32There is part of you that is still passionate
01:31:34about what that statue represents.
01:31:36Well, of course.
01:31:37I mean, my whole life, I've read about it.
01:31:40Well, of course.
01:31:41I mean, my whole life,
01:31:42I've grown up in a place that represents diversity,
01:31:45that embraces diversity.
01:31:47It's the thing that I'm most proud of as a New Yorker,
01:31:50and I believe that we hold that near and dear to our hearts.
01:32:01I've reached the end of my journey,
01:32:03and what an adventure it's been.
01:32:05I've travelled tens of thousands of miles.
01:32:08Inhospitable landscape.
01:32:10Total flipping luxury.
01:32:13And been on some of the world's greatest railways,
01:32:16from bullet trains in Japan
01:32:18to the scenic routes in India.
01:32:22I've seen incredible landscapes
01:32:24and met some wonderful people.
01:32:28And everywhere, I've been greeted with warmth,
01:32:31And everywhere, I've been greeted with warmth,
01:32:34kindness and hospitality.
01:32:39One thing I know for sure,
01:32:41if I was asked to do it all again,
01:32:43I'd jump at the chance.
01:32:47A delighting confectionary,
01:32:49brand new tomorrow at 5.35.
01:32:51All the sugar you need as we find out
01:32:53all there is to know inside Cadbury.
01:32:55Secrets of the Chocolate Factory.
01:32:57Next night, piecing together
01:32:59a Vesuvius timeline of terror,
01:33:01new evidence comes to light
01:33:03in Pompeii's final hours.

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