Category
😹
FunTranscript
00:00:00🎶
00:00:30🎶
00:01:00🎶
00:01:05🎶
00:01:10🎶
00:01:15🎶
00:01:20🎶
00:01:25🎶
00:01:30🎶
00:01:35🎶
00:01:40🎶
00:01:45🎶
00:01:50🎶
00:01:55🎶
00:02:00🎶
00:02:05🎶
00:02:10🎶
00:02:15🎶
00:02:20🎶
00:02:25🎶
00:02:30🎶
00:02:35🎶
00:02:40🎶
00:02:45🎶
00:02:50🎶
00:02:55🎶
00:03:00🎶
00:03:05🎶
00:03:10🎶
00:03:15🎶
00:03:20🎶
00:03:25🎶
00:03:30🎶
00:03:35🎶
00:03:40🎶
00:03:45🎶
00:03:50🎶
00:03:55🎶
00:04:00🎶
00:04:05🎶
00:04:10🎶
00:04:15🎶
00:04:20🎶
00:04:25🎶
00:04:30🎶
00:04:35🎶
00:04:40🎶
00:04:45🎶
00:04:50🎶
00:04:55🎶
00:05:00🎶
00:05:05🎶
00:05:10🎶
00:05:15🎶
00:05:20🎶
00:05:25🎶
00:05:30🎶
00:05:35🎶
00:05:40🎶
00:05:45🎶
00:05:50🎶
00:05:55🎶
00:06:00🎶
00:06:05🎶
00:06:10🎶
00:06:15🎶
00:06:20🎶
00:06:25🎶
00:06:30🎶
00:06:35🎶
00:06:40🎶
00:06:45🎶
00:06:50🎶
00:06:55🎶
00:07:00🎶
00:07:05🎶
00:07:10🎶
00:07:15🎶
00:07:20🎶
00:07:25🎶
00:07:30🎶
00:07:35🎶
00:07:40🎶
00:07:45🎶
00:07:50🎶
00:07:55🎶
00:08:00🎶
00:08:05🎶
00:08:10🎶
00:08:15🎶
00:08:20🎶
00:08:25🎶
00:08:30🎶
00:08:35🎶
00:08:40🎶
00:08:45🎶
00:08:50🎶
00:08:55🎶
00:09:00🎶
00:09:05🎶
00:09:10🎶
00:09:15🎶
00:09:20🎶
00:09:25🎶
00:09:30🎶
00:09:35🎶
00:09:40🎶
00:09:45🎶
00:09:50🎶
00:09:55🎶
00:10:00🎶
00:10:05🎶
00:10:10🎶
00:10:15🎶
00:10:20🎶
00:10:25🎶
00:10:30🎶
00:10:35🎶
00:10:40🎶
00:10:45🎶
00:10:50🎶
00:10:55🎶
00:11:00🎶
00:11:05🎶
00:11:10🎶
00:11:15🎶
00:11:20🎶
00:11:25🎶
00:11:30🎶
00:11:35🎶
00:11:40🎶
00:11:45🎶
00:11:50🎶
00:11:55🎶
00:12:00🎶
00:12:05🎶
00:12:10🎶
00:12:15🎶
00:12:20🎶
00:12:25🎶
00:12:30🎶
00:12:35🎶
00:12:40🎶
00:12:45🎶
00:12:50🎶
00:12:55🎶
00:13:00🎶
00:13:05🎶
00:13:10🎶
00:13:15🎶
00:13:20🎶
00:13:25🎶
00:13:30🎶
00:13:35🎶
00:13:40🎶
00:13:45🎶
00:13:50🎶
00:13:55🎶
00:14:00🎶
00:14:05🎶
00:14:10🎶
00:14:15🎶
00:14:20🎶
00:14:25🎶
00:14:30🎶
00:14:35🎶
00:14:40🎶
00:14:45🎶
00:14:50🎶
00:14:55🎶
00:15:00🎶
00:15:05🎶
00:15:10🎶
00:15:15🎶
00:15:20🎶
00:15:25🎶
00:15:30🎶
00:15:35🎶
00:15:40🎶
00:15:45🎶
00:15:50🎶
00:15:55🎶
00:16:00🎶
00:16:05🎶
00:16:10🎶
00:16:15🎶
00:16:20🎶
00:16:25🎶
00:16:30🎶
00:16:35🎶
00:16:40🎶
00:16:45🎶
00:16:50🎶
00:16:55🎶
00:17:00🎶
00:17:05🎶
00:17:10🎶
00:17:15🎶
00:17:20🎶
00:17:25🎶
00:17:30🎶
00:17:35🎶
00:17:40🎶
00:17:45🎶
00:17:50🎶
00:17:55🎶
00:18:00🎶
00:18:05🎶
00:18:10🎶
00:18:15🎶
00:18:20🎶
00:18:25🎶
00:18:30🎶
00:18:35🎶
00:18:40🎶
00:18:45🎶
00:18:50🎶
00:18:55🎶
00:19:00🎶
00:19:05🎶
00:19:10🎶
00:19:15🎶
00:19:20🎶
00:19:25🎶
00:19:30🎶
00:19:35🎶
00:19:40🎶
00:19:45🎶
00:19:50🎶
00:19:55🎶
00:20:00🎶
00:20:05🎶
00:20:10🎶
00:20:15🎶
00:20:20🎶
00:20:25🎶
00:20:30🎶
00:20:35🎶
00:20:40🎶
00:20:45🎶
00:20:50🎶
00:20:55🎶
00:21:00🎶
00:21:05🎶
00:21:10🎶
00:21:15🎶
00:21:20🎶
00:21:25🎶
00:21:30🎶
00:21:35🎶
00:21:40🎶
00:21:45🎶
00:21:50🎶
00:21:55🎶
00:22:00🎶
00:22:05🎶
00:22:10🎶
00:22:15🎶
00:22:20🎶
00:22:25🎶
00:22:30🎶
00:22:35🎶
00:22:40🎶
00:22:45🎶
00:22:50🎶
00:22:55🎶
00:23:00🎶
00:23:05🎶
00:23:10🎶
00:23:15🎶
00:23:20🎶
00:23:25🎶
00:23:30🎶
00:23:35🎶
00:23:40🎶
00:23:45🎶
00:23:50🎶
00:23:55🎶
00:24:00🎶
00:24:05🎶
00:24:10🎶
00:24:15🎶
00:24:20🎶
00:24:25🎶
00:24:30🎶
00:24:35🎶
00:24:40🎶
00:24:45🎶
00:24:50🎶
00:24:55🎶
00:25:00🎶
00:25:05🎶
00:25:10🎶
00:25:15🎶
00:25:20🎶
00:25:25🎶
00:25:30🎶
00:25:35🎶
00:25:40🎶
00:25:45🎶
00:25:50🎶
00:25:55🎶
00:26:00🎶
00:26:05🎶
00:26:10🎶
00:26:15🎶
00:26:20🎶
00:26:25🎶
00:26:30🎶
00:26:35🎶
00:26:40🎶
00:26:45🎶
00:26:50🎶
00:26:55🎶
00:27:00🎶
00:27:05🎶
00:27:10🎶
00:27:15🎶
00:27:20🎶
00:27:25🎶
00:27:30🎶
00:27:35🎶
00:27:40🎶
00:27:45🎶
00:27:50🎶
00:27:55🎶
00:28:00🎶
00:28:05🎶
00:28:10🎶
00:28:15🎶
00:28:20🎶
00:28:25🎶
00:28:30🎶
00:28:35🎶
00:28:40🎶
00:28:45🎶
00:28:50🎶
00:28:55🎶
00:29:00🎶
00:29:05🎶
00:29:10🎶
00:29:15🎶
00:29:20🎶
00:29:25🎶
00:29:30🎶
00:29:35🎶
00:29:40🎶
00:29:45🎶
00:29:50🎶
00:29:55🎶
00:30:00🎶
00:30:05🎶
00:30:10🎶
00:30:15🎶
00:30:20🎶
00:30:25🎶
00:30:30🎶
00:30:35🎶
00:30:40🎶
00:30:45🎶
00:30:50🎶
00:30:55🎶
00:31:00🎶
00:31:05🎶
00:31:10🎶
00:31:15🎶
00:31:20🎶
00:31:25🎶
00:31:30🎶
00:31:35🎶
00:31:40🎶
00:31:45🎶
00:31:50🎶
00:31:55🎶
00:32:00🎶
00:32:05🎶
00:32:10🎶
00:32:15🎶
00:32:20🎶
00:32:25🎶
00:32:30🎶
00:32:35🎶
00:32:40🎶
00:32:45🎶
00:32:50🎶
00:32:55🎶
00:33:00🎶
00:33:05🎶
00:33:10🎶
00:33:15🎶
00:33:20🎶
00:33:25🎶
00:33:30🎶
00:33:35🎶
00:33:40🎶
00:33:45🎶
00:33:50🎶
00:33:55🎶
00:34:00🎶
00:34:05🎶
00:34:10🎶
00:34:15🎶
00:34:20🎶
00:34:25🎶
00:34:30🎶
00:34:35🎶
00:34:40🎶
00:34:45🎶
00:34:50🎶
00:34:55🎶
00:35:00🎶
00:35:05🎶
00:35:10🎶
00:35:15🎶
00:35:20🎶
00:35:25🎶
00:35:30🎶
00:35:35🎶
00:35:40🎶
00:35:45🎶
00:35:50🎶
00:35:55🎶
00:36:00🎶
00:36:05🎶
00:36:10🎶
00:36:15🎶
00:36:20🎶
00:36:25🎶
00:36:30🎶
00:36:35🎶
00:36:40🎶
00:36:45🎶
00:36:50🎶
00:36:55🎶
00:37:00🎶
00:37:05🎶
00:37:10🎶
00:37:15🎶
00:37:20🎶
00:37:25🎶
00:37:30🎶
00:37:35🎶
00:37:40🎶
00:37:45🎶
00:37:50🎶
00:37:55🎶
00:38:00🎶
00:38:05🎶
00:38:10🎶
00:38:15🎶
00:38:20🎶
00:38:25🎶
00:38:30🎶
00:38:35🎶
00:38:40🎶
00:38:45🎶
00:38:50🎶
00:38:55🎶
00:39:00🎶
00:39:05🎶
00:39:10🎶
00:39:15🎶
00:39:20🎶
00:39:25🎶
00:39:30🎶
00:39:35🎶
00:39:40🎶
00:39:45🎶
00:39:50🎶
00:39:55🎶
00:40:00🎶
00:40:05🎶
00:40:10🎶
00:40:15🎶
00:40:20🎶
00:40:25🎶
00:40:30🎶
00:40:35🎶
00:40:40🎶
00:40:45🎶
00:40:50🎶
00:40:55🎶
00:41:00🎶
00:41:05🎶
00:41:10🎶
00:41:15🎶
00:41:20🎶
00:41:25🎶
00:41:30🎶
00:41:35🎶
00:41:40🎶
00:41:45🎶
00:41:50🎶
00:41:55🎶
00:42:00🎶
00:42:05🎶
00:42:10🎶
00:42:15🎶
00:42:20🎶
00:42:25🎶
00:42:30🎶
00:42:35🎶
00:42:40🎶
00:42:45🎶
00:42:50🎶
00:42:55🎶
00:43:00🎶
00:43:05🎶
00:43:10🎶
00:43:15🎶
00:43:20🎶
00:43:25🎶
00:43:30🎶
00:43:35🎶
00:43:40🎶
00:43:45🎶
00:43:50🎶
00:43:55🎶
00:44:00🎶
00:44:05🎶
00:44:10🎶
00:44:15🎶
00:44:20🎶
00:44:25🎶
00:44:30🎶
00:44:35🎶
00:44:40🎶
00:44:45🎶
00:44:50🎶
00:44:55🎶
00:45:00🎶
00:45:05🎶
00:45:11In this video I'm sharing everything you need to know before you visit the Cinque Terre in Northern Italy.
00:45:17What to see, do and how to get around.
00:45:20The smallest and oldest national park in Italy, Cinque Terre, is a stretch of Italian Riviera coastline made up of five villages.
00:45:29The UNESCO World Heritage Site isn't a place full of tourist attractions, but one cherished for its natural beauty and charm.
00:45:37Cinque Terre, famous for its colorful coastal village clusters and breathtaking paths along the cliffs, inhabits only about 7,000 people.
00:45:46The five villages from north to south are Montorossa al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola and Rio Maggiore.
00:45:55The villages are close together, trains and boats connect them.
00:45:59The Cinque Terre Express runs frequently between La Spezia and Lavanto and stops at each village.
00:46:06It only takes about five minutes from one village to the next.
00:46:09Tickets cost €5 for a single journey from one village to the other.
00:46:13The Cinque Terre train card is recommended for unlimited travel between Lavanto and La Spezia and also includes hikes.
00:46:20The card costs about €18 for a day, €33 for two and €47 for three days.
00:46:27To explore all the five villages thoroughly, spend at least two to three days here.
00:46:32If you're short on time, Vernazza and Rio Maggiore are the most photography.
00:46:37All the five villages have their own personality and defining features.
00:46:41Let's take a closer look.
00:46:43Montorosso al Mare
00:46:45The largest village, Montorosso, is known for its lemon trees and anchovies.
00:46:49The town is split into two sections, linked by a short tunnel.
00:46:53The new town has a beach and seafront promenade.
00:46:56Montorosso is the only village with a sand beach.
00:46:59On the other side of the tunnel is the old town,
00:47:02where you will find the church of San Giovanni Battista, small shops and narrow streets to explore.
00:47:15Vernazza
00:47:16Vernazza is called the prettiest of the five villages.
00:47:19Arriving by the train station, the way leads you down to the harbor and a tiny beach.
00:47:24The little cafes invite you to stop and enjoy the scenery.
00:47:27The Vernazza viewpoint is a popular spot to gaze upon the pastel-colored homes.
00:47:58Corniglia
00:48:08Corniglia
00:48:09Corniglia is the most quiet and smallest village of the five.
00:48:13It stands more than 182 meters above the sea
00:48:16and therefore is the only village that has no direct sea access or harbor.
00:48:21From the train station, 300 plus steps, known as l'artarina, lead you up to the village.
00:48:27Once at the top, the church of Santi Pietro overlooks the village.
00:48:31Walking further to a sea-facing terrace, you can see all the five villages at once.
00:48:37Manarola
00:48:50Manarola
00:48:51Manarola has no traditional beach, but there's a beautiful harbor surrounded by cliffs to jump from.
00:48:57It's a popular place on hot days and only takes about 3 minutes to walk down from the train station.
00:49:03In Manarola, you'll once again be captivated by the picturesque multicolored houses facing the sea.
00:49:10My friend and I walked from Rio Maggiore to Manarola.
00:49:13Although it isn't a traditional hiking trail, you'll still get some spectacular views.
00:49:18There are many other amazing trails to hike,
00:49:21but note that the Via dell'Amore from Rio Maggiore to Manarola is closed right now.
00:49:26It is scheduled to reopen in 2023.
00:49:33Manarola
00:50:03Manarola
00:50:30Rio Maggiore
00:50:32Rio Maggiore is known for its brightly colored houses set around the harbor.
00:50:37Near the harbor, you can also rent boats or kayaks.
00:50:41In the marina, you can dive into the sea, although originally prohibited, and enjoy the sunset on the rocks.
00:50:48To reach Rio Maggiore beach, take the short trail that leads past the harbor.
00:50:52When swimming or snorkeling in the clear water, you can see the railway tunnel.
00:50:56Rio Maggiore is probably my favorite of the five, and the one we stayed at.
00:51:01We had a really, really nice apartment.
00:51:04I'll link that down below if you want to check it out.
00:51:07Before visiting, brace yourself for plenty of hills though.
00:51:31Rio Maggiore
00:52:01Rio Maggiore
00:52:31Rio Maggiore
00:53:01Rio Maggiore
00:53:04Rio Maggiore
00:53:12I hope this video gave you some insights about the beautiful Cinque Terre.
00:53:16If you've ever been here, let me know what you enjoyed the most.
00:53:20And if you have any questions, drop them below.
00:53:32Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe.
00:53:35This time, we're rebuilding medieval terraces
00:53:38here on the most beautiful stretch of the Mediterranean coastline, Italy's Cinque Terre.
00:54:02The Cinque Terre
00:54:16The Cinque Terre is five little towns like this,
00:54:19beautifully isolated in the most seductive stretch of the Italian Riviera.
00:54:23For me, the best bits of Italy are traffic-free,
00:54:26and with this unique mix of Italian culture and nature,
00:54:29there's not a fiat in sight.
00:54:32We'll explore five rugged little port towns,
00:54:35ride a wine train high into the vineyards,
00:54:38make pesto in its birthplace,
00:54:40dive from spectacular cliffs,
00:54:43buy flowers from a singing florist,
00:54:48and hike, soaking up more sun and scenery than you can imagine.
00:54:53In the south of Europe is Italy,
00:54:56and between Florence and Genoa lies the Cinque Terre.
00:55:00We'll see all five towns, starting in Vernazza.
00:55:04Then we hike to Corniglia, Monterola, and Rio Maggiore
00:55:08before catching the boat to Monterosso al Mare.
00:55:14The Cinque Terre, which means five lands,
00:55:17was originally described in medieval times as the five castles.
00:55:21But towns like this grew up
00:55:23in the protective shadows of their castles,
00:55:25their people ready to run for refuge
00:55:27at the first hint of a Turkish pirate raid.
00:55:32As the threat of pirates faded,
00:55:34the communities grew with economies
00:55:36based on fish, olives, and grapes.
00:55:40Today, the big employer is tourism.
00:55:43Each rugged little town is a variation on the same theme,
00:55:47a pastel jumble of homes filling its ravine.
00:55:51These days, the castles,
00:55:52which used to protect the towns from marauding pirates,
00:55:56guard only glorious views.
00:55:58This 10-kilometer stretch of the Italian Riviera
00:56:01is the rugged alternative
00:56:03to the more glitzy Riviera resorts nearby.
00:56:06The traffic-free charm is a happy result
00:56:09of its natural isolation.
00:56:11Just sun, sea, sand, well, pebbles, and people.
00:56:15For me, this is Italy at its most relaxed.
00:56:19For a home base, choose among the five villages.
00:56:22Each has a distinct personality,
00:56:24gently and steadily carving a good life
00:56:27out of the difficult terrain.
00:56:32You approach the Cinque Terre
00:56:34by train through long, dark tunnels.
00:56:36Explosions of Mediterranean brightness
00:56:39hint at the wonders to come.
00:56:41Milk-run trains tie the villages to each other
00:56:44and to the outside world.
00:56:46The first train line cutting through
00:56:48this tough, mountainous coastline
00:56:50was an engineering marvel for its day.
00:56:57It was carved out of these mountains
00:56:59just after the unification of Italy back in the 1870s.
00:57:03Built with the same determined spirit that united Italy,
00:57:06this train line literally helped tie together
00:57:09the newborn country's diverse regions.
00:57:13We start in Vernazza,
00:57:14where the big news is the hourly arrival of the train,
00:57:17bringing an almost rhythmic surge of visitors into town.
00:57:21There's one main street.
00:57:22It runs from its train station down to the sea.
00:57:25Of the five towns,
00:57:26Vernazza has the closest thing to a natural harbor.
00:57:30The old castle no longer says,
00:57:32stay away.
00:57:33Instead, it seems to welcome
00:57:35people-packed excursion boats.
00:57:37Settle into a comfy spot on the breakwater.
00:57:40Study the arrangement man and nature
00:57:42have carved out here over the last 15 centuries.
00:57:47Crumpled hills come with topographical lines,
00:57:50a terraced green bouquet of cactus,
00:57:52grapevines, and olive trees
00:57:54blanketing the surrounding hills.
00:58:05Each town is honeycombed
00:58:06with a range of rooms, apartments, and small hotels.
00:58:10Rentable private rooms, called camare,
00:58:12are the best values throughout the Cinque Terre.
00:58:15This gang rented a place with a homey living room
00:58:18and a small but fully-equipped kitchen.
00:58:21This couple chose a perch right above the piazza.
00:58:25The adjacent church bells chime through the day,
00:58:28but thanks to an agreeable town priest,
00:58:31they're silent through the night.
00:58:34In Vernazza, the action's at the harbor,
00:58:36where you'll find a kids' beach,
00:58:38plenty of sunning rocks,
00:58:39and a wealth of cafes and restaurants.
00:58:44Like a breakwater keeps out the waves
00:58:46at the bottom of town,
00:58:47a gate stops traffic at the top.
00:58:50No cars enter this village of 600 residents
00:58:53except early on Tuesdays,
00:58:55when trucks and vans roll in
00:58:57for the weekly tailgate party street market.
00:59:00While most tourists are still in their rooms,
00:59:02villagers, some who've never set foot in a modern mall,
00:59:05do their shopping.
00:59:07The mobile market serves a different town each day.
00:59:11The flower stand is a family affair.
00:59:13For 20 years of Tuesdays,
00:59:15the Lombardo family has set up right here.
00:59:18And the son, Eros, florist by day
00:59:21and opera singer by night,
00:59:23sells flowers with a dramatic flair.
00:59:26Ma tanto, tanto bene stai
00:59:33E' un'occhiatella ormai
00:59:40Di te bene stai
00:59:46The people of these towns are proud of their heritage.
00:59:50They brag that while big-time Riviera resorts nearby sold out,
00:59:54the Cinque Terre is still locally owned.
00:59:57The families remain tight, and they go back centuries.
01:00:02Until the coming of the train and tourism,
01:00:05these towns were very remote
01:00:07and heavily dependent upon the city.
01:00:11Even today, traditions survive.
01:00:19While nothing like past generations,
01:00:22small-scale fishermen still earn their living
01:00:24working their nets while the tourists play.
01:00:27And each day, restauranteurs count on these men
01:00:30to keep their diners smacking their lips.
01:00:33And each of the five villages
01:00:35actually has its own restaurant.
01:00:38And each of the five villages
01:00:40actually retains a distinct dialect.
01:00:42Every village have a different dialect.
01:00:45What's an example?
01:00:46Example for talk about married,
01:00:49in Vernazza, is spusau.
01:00:52Spusau.
01:00:53And if you're married in Rio Maggiore?
01:00:56Accompagnau.
01:00:57Very different.
01:00:58So when you hear somebody,
01:00:59you know what village they live in.
01:01:01Yes, sure.
01:01:03From the main street,
01:01:04you can pop into a series of narrow-stepped lanes
01:01:07called carruggi.
01:01:08These zigzag every which way.
01:01:14In the densest parts of town,
01:01:16these lanes become interior passages.
01:01:19If you keep climbing,
01:01:20eventually you'll pop out up at the top near the castle,
01:01:24handy for fleeing attacks.
01:01:26The castle is nicknamed Belforte,
01:01:28the place of loud screams for the warnings
01:01:31of its tower back in pirating days.
01:01:34A tower has stood guard here for 1,000 years.
01:01:37Visitors climb to the top for the view
01:01:40and to imagine past raids.
01:01:50Today, the castle functions as a tourist lookout,
01:01:54a perch from which local daredevils dive...
01:01:59and a restaurant.
01:02:02And the fort's lowest deck is perfect for a romantic meal.
01:02:07For a sweet dessert wine, sip the local Shakitra.
01:02:12It's served with biscotti, ideal for dunking.
01:02:17Savor the view and the unforgettable setting.
01:02:21But this submarine-strength door
01:02:23hints that the weather's not always so calm.
01:02:26Mammoth waves can slam into this wall,
01:02:29and, as photos inside attest,
01:02:31winter storms can engulf the entire tower in waves.
01:02:36Life here is subject to the dictates of the weather,
01:02:40and the people of the Cinque Terre
01:02:42know the weather by the wind.
01:02:46It is nice.
01:02:47Yes, but I think that the weather will be changed.
01:02:50Yeah? Why?
01:02:51Because we have now a wind from Syria called Scirocco.
01:02:55Normally, the sea is a little bit rough,
01:02:58and then after Scirocco, we have a wind from Libya called Libecho,
01:03:03and this storm coming from the sea.
01:03:05So from Libya, Libecho.
01:03:07Yes.
01:03:08From Syria, Scirocco.
01:03:09Scirocco. Bad news.
01:03:11Yes, yes.
01:03:12And normally, we have after Libecho,
01:03:14the wind from the north called Tramontana.
01:03:19Tramontana.
01:03:20This wind coming down from the north
01:03:23and cleaning the sky
01:03:25will be, again, una bellissima giornata.
01:03:28Good for the tourists.
01:03:30Yes, for us.
01:03:31So if you know the wind...
01:03:32In Cinque Terre, if you know the wind,
01:03:34you don't need a weatherman.
01:03:36But the weatherman was no help
01:03:38when a freak rainstorm hit the region in October 2011.
01:03:42Like many towns built in a ravine,
01:03:44Vernazza paved over the stream that once divided the town
01:03:47in order to build this people-friendly main drag.
01:03:50The city was buried in an angry torrent of mud,
01:03:5410 feet deep.
01:03:55With the steep hillside serving as a giant funnel,
01:03:58the flash flood overwhelmed the tunnel
01:04:00containing the town's stream.
01:04:02While every street-level business in town was destroyed,
01:04:06the townsfolk have rebuilt
01:04:07and are careful to keep their expanded drainage system ready
01:04:11for the next episode of violent weather.
01:04:15Vernazza has recovered, and its main square
01:04:19has some of the region's finest restaurants.
01:04:22And we're settling down for the classic dishes of the region,
01:04:26pasta with pesto and anchovies.
01:04:28Gnocchi col pesto.
01:04:30The pesto is a local sauce.
01:04:31It's come from Liguria, the region where we are now.
01:04:34When you come here, you must try pesto.
01:04:37Basil, which loves this temperate Ligurian climate,
01:04:40awaits its fate in the mortar.
01:04:45Fresh garlic, sea salt, and toasted pine nuts
01:04:49get mashed into a fine paste first.
01:04:53Then the basil is added.
01:04:55Gradually, the chef works it all into a rich green sauce.
01:05:02Like so many Italian dishes, virgin olive oil is mixed in.
01:05:07The pesto is finished with freshly grated Parmesan cheese.
01:05:12And then it's poured over the pasta.
01:05:15Tonight, we're enjoying it on gnocchi.
01:05:21The most typical main course here? Fish.
01:05:24Acciughe, or anchovies, are a regional specialty
01:05:27served the day they're caught.
01:05:29If you've always hated anchovies,
01:05:31the harsh, cured-in-salt American kind,
01:05:33try them here, fresh and cooked in a variety of ways.
01:05:38Grazie.
01:05:40From each town stretches steep terraced hills.
01:05:45The ingenious monorail wine train, called a trenino,
01:05:49carries workers high above the villages,
01:05:51where small family vineyards are tended with knowing care.
01:05:55The Cinque Terre takes great pride in its white wine.
01:05:59Traditional farming techniques are complemented
01:06:02with modern know-how,
01:06:03as the delicate vines are prepped in anticipation
01:06:06of a hot growing season.
01:06:08Historically, each family has its own small vineyard.
01:06:12With the lure of the modern world,
01:06:14it's not easy to keep these labor-intensive traditions alive.
01:06:18But those who appreciate the heritage of their land
01:06:21seem determined to keep things going.
01:06:24These hillsides have been terraced for centuries.
01:06:28Someone, perhaps after drinking a bit too much of the local wine,
01:06:32calculated that the Cinque Terre
01:06:34has over 4,000 miles of dry stone walls.
01:06:38Built without mortar, they require regular maintenance.
01:06:42The dry stone masons of the Cinque Terre
01:06:45are famed for their skill at artfully building
01:06:48and preserving the trails and terraces.
01:06:51And the craft survives to this day
01:06:54with skilled artisans like Giuliano Basso.
01:07:05All five villages are connected by scenic trails,
01:07:10much enjoyed by visitors.
01:07:12From Vernazza, the trail leads dramatically
01:07:15along the coast and through the vineyards.
01:07:18One of the essential Cinque Terre experiences
01:07:21is to get out and hike.
01:07:23The trails are rough but manageable.
01:07:26Sure, there are plenty of ups and downs,
01:07:29but with these views, it's well worth it.
01:07:34The village of Cornelia,
01:07:36perched on a ridge, sparkles in the distance.
01:07:39Cornelia, the one town not on the water,
01:07:42feels more remote than its sisters.
01:07:45With the church overlooking its intimate main square,
01:07:49a couple of restaurants,
01:07:50and a handful of private rooms for rent,
01:07:53it has a relaxing vibe.
01:07:57Since Roman times,
01:07:58Cornelia has been noted for its winemaking.
01:08:01To this day, many families
01:08:03still make a little wine in their cellar.
01:08:05And if you manage to get invited in,
01:08:07you'll enjoy an education and, of course, a taste.
01:08:11And quanti litro qui?
01:08:1354.
01:08:1454 liters. That's a lot.
01:08:16Vino della Cinque Terre.
01:08:18No, vino della Cornelia.
01:08:20Cinque Terre.
01:08:21Yeah, it's better.
01:08:25At the windy end of town is a Belvedere,
01:08:28a breathtaking lookout perched high above the sea.
01:08:31From here, you can scout the rest of your trek
01:08:34and see your next stop, Monterola.
01:08:37There's one main path, so you won't get lost.
01:08:40Trails can be congested.
01:08:42Minimize crowds and heat by hiking early or late.
01:08:46As the area's a national park,
01:08:48you'll pay a nominal admission fee
01:08:50and enjoy better-maintained trails
01:08:52and a more pristine countryside.
01:08:55Whether strolling through shady olive groves,
01:08:59enjoying wide-open vistas,
01:09:03or pausing for a little sunbathing
01:09:06on your own private rock,
01:09:08the hike is a delight.
01:09:12Monterola is petite and picturesque,
01:09:16a tumble of buildings filling its ravine
01:09:19above a craggy port.
01:09:21The tiny harbor, with its modern breakwater,
01:09:24is perfect for diving both fishermen and fun-seekers.
01:09:28Cliff-diving for beginners is popular here.
01:09:31In the Cinque Terre, everyone enjoys great views,
01:09:35and that includes the dead.
01:09:37I'm joining my friend Monica on one of her visits
01:09:40to the cemetery perched high above her town.
01:09:45Ever since Napoleon, who crowned himself king of Italy
01:09:48in the early 1800s,
01:09:49declared cemeteries are health risks,
01:09:51people in these villages
01:09:52and their loved ones outside the towns.
01:09:55The result?
01:09:56Dramatically situated cemeteries high in the hills.
01:10:00With evocative photos and finely carved memorial reliefs,
01:10:05any are worth a visit.
01:10:08In cemeteries like these,
01:10:10some are buried in a graveyard,
01:10:12while most are in niches called loculi.
01:10:16The sanctuary is quietly busy with locals
01:10:19remembering lost loved ones.
01:10:22When you come to the cemetery,
01:10:23it's like visiting your family.
01:10:25Yes, my family, my friends.
01:10:26I know everyone here.
01:10:28So do you have relatives here in this wall?
01:10:31Yes, here I have my grandparents.
01:10:34Alle Cari.
01:10:35Alla Cari.
01:10:36Armando.
01:10:37My grandfather and my grandmother.
01:10:39Each one is a little bit different.
01:10:40It has a personality, I think.
01:10:42Exactly.
01:10:43Everyone want the people have something like before.
01:10:46And people are coming every month, every year?
01:10:49No, every week.
01:10:50Every week?
01:10:51Every week.
01:10:52And it's not necessary to cry when you are here.
01:10:54You are happy because you are together
01:10:56with the people of your family, with your friends.
01:11:00Rina is the first bed and breakfast in Vernazza.
01:11:05She rent room for the first time to American people.
01:11:09Here is an American boy.
01:11:11Look at that, with his rolling suitcase.
01:11:13Exactly, exactly.
01:11:14And Rina is waiting in the main road for someone arrive.
01:11:19Here I have Massimo's grandparents.
01:11:21This is your husband's grandparents?
01:11:23Exactly.
01:11:24They died both in one week.
01:11:27Within one week?
01:11:28One week.
01:11:29And here I have my cousin, Sauro.
01:11:31Oh, the flood came and took him away.
01:11:34Exactly.
01:11:35And they found Sauro in France.
01:11:38In France.
01:11:45Manarola is connected to the next town by the Via della More,
01:11:57or Walkway of Love.
01:11:58It's the easiest stretch of the hike
01:12:00and a good place from which to savor your own private piece
01:12:04of Mediterranean coastline.
01:12:06Enjoying this stroll, it's easy to understand
01:12:09why so many artists and romantics
01:12:12are drawn to this region.
01:12:14The next town hides just around the corner.
01:12:18Rio Maggiore, while bigger than the towns we've seen so far,
01:12:22is another cozy collection of homes nestled in a valley.
01:12:26The tangle of pastel houses lean on each other
01:12:29as if someone stole their crutches.
01:12:31The colors of these villages are regulated
01:12:33by a commissioner of good taste from the community government.
01:12:39For those hiking the trails,
01:12:41an ideal snack is a slice of focaccia.
01:12:44Focaccia originates here in the region of Liguria.
01:12:48The baker stretches dough to fit the pan,
01:12:51roughs it up with finger holes,
01:12:54adds a few simple ingredients, perhaps tomatoes and olives,
01:12:59drizzles olive oil, and splashes it with salty water.
01:13:06Hot out of the oven,
01:13:07the focaccia comes in several varieties
01:13:09and is a local favorite for a quick snack to go.
01:13:13Grazie.
01:13:14Grazie.
01:13:15Ciao.
01:13:16Bye.
01:13:18While you can hike or ride the train between towns,
01:13:21you can also catch the boat.
01:13:23If the weather's calm,
01:13:24hourly boats link the Cinque Terre towns.
01:13:27After a hike, it's fun to survey what you've explored.
01:13:31There's Monterola...
01:13:34and Cornelia, safely on its hilltop.
01:13:38And from my boat,
01:13:39I can almost see our apartment in Vernazza.
01:13:43Last stop for this boat,
01:13:44the numero cinque of our Cinque Terre tour,
01:13:48is Monterosso al Mare.
01:13:53This is the most resorty town of the group,
01:13:55with cars, larger hotels, rentable umbrellas,
01:13:59and the best beach around.
01:14:01If you want the kind of beach scene that leaps to mind
01:14:04when you hear the word Riviera,
01:14:06you'll find it here.
01:14:07Warm water, colorful umbrellas,
01:14:10plenty of bodies soaking up that Mediterranean sun,
01:14:14and an inviting promenade.
01:14:21Complementing Monterosso's happy beach scene
01:14:24is restaurant Mickey,
01:14:25and my son, Andy, is joining us
01:14:27for the region's most elegant dining experience.
01:14:31While tourism has brought a new affluence here,
01:14:34even high-end places are still family-run.
01:14:37The father, Mickey, runs the kitchen
01:14:39with an impressive mix of artistry and precision.
01:14:44Meanwhile, the mother and daughter
01:14:46help wait tables and charm their guests.
01:14:49Mickey's pasta is cooked with a unique twist,
01:14:52capped with pizza dough
01:14:53and finished in a wood-fired oven.
01:14:56Sarah is bringing us the house specialties
01:14:59and making sure we know what we're eating.
01:15:02It's delicious.
01:15:07When our pasta arrives and the crust is broken,
01:15:10the steamy aroma heralds a taste treat to come.
01:15:17And to cap a great meal,
01:15:19Chef Mickey drops by
01:15:20as we're enjoying our traditional Shakira and biscotti.
01:15:34From the beach resort half of Monterosso,
01:15:37a tunnel leads under the castle and into the old town.
01:15:42Here, you'll find more restaurants,
01:15:44characteristic shops,
01:15:46and a world of colorful lanes.
01:15:50It's touristy,
01:15:51and virtually every storefront caters to visitors' needs.
01:15:55But there's a low-key ambience
01:15:57where you're reminded that we're all in this life together,
01:16:00so let's enjoy the moment.
01:16:03It's aperitivo time,
01:16:04and as everywhere in Italy right about now,
01:16:07families are out, kids and parents,
01:16:09children enlivening main squares.
01:16:12One tradition that thrives oblivious to all the tourism
01:16:15is that special time when people are out socializing,
01:16:19enjoying the cool of the early evening.
01:16:27Back in Vernazza,
01:16:28I'm enjoying the passeggiata with Irene.
01:16:35A stroll here, especially with a local friend
01:16:38who knows everyone in town,
01:16:39gives a good insight into this close-knit Italian community,
01:16:44a community that I've been visiting
01:16:46since all of us were a lot younger.
01:16:49Let me squeeze it.
01:16:51Ciao, Antonio.
01:16:54There's my friend.
01:16:55Does this bench have her name on it?
01:16:57Uh, yes.
01:16:58This is your bench.
01:17:04Italy's Cinque Terre is an irresistible mix
01:17:07of nature, culture, and human activity,
01:17:10well-worn locals, sunburned travelers,
01:17:13and inviting, family-friendly piazzas.
01:17:16Sure, the place is now well-discovered,
01:17:18but I've never seen happier, more laid-back tourists.
01:17:22While the Cinque Terre now endures
01:17:24the storms of the modern world,
01:17:26the region's charms are as endearing
01:17:29as its people are resilient.
01:17:37And even today, when the church bells ring,
01:17:39the fishermen at sea and the great pickers up in the hills
01:17:42look back at their village,
01:17:43and they know Italy is still Italy.
01:17:46Thanks for joining us.
01:17:47I'm Rick Steves.
01:17:48Until next time, keep on traveling.
01:17:51Ciao.
01:17:53If you know the wind...
01:17:54If you know the wind, Cinque Terre,
01:17:56you don't need a weatherman.
01:17:58Sorry.
01:18:01No.
01:18:02That's perfect. No, it's great.
01:18:04All right, I'm wrong.
01:18:06I'm going where the water tastes like wine
01:18:12Stay drunk all the time
01:18:15In Cinque Terre, you don't need a weatherman.