À la française - Art culinaire

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l’année dernière

Etoilé Michelin, Toshitaka Omiya est un très grand Chef originaire du Japon, fou de cuisine française et passionné par notre culture. Il rend magnifiquement hommage à l’Art Culinaire Français dans son restaurant Alliance, au côté de son associé Shawn Joyeux, passés lui aussi par de grands palaces.
Afin de magnifier pleinement l’Art Culinaire Français, ils sont accompagnés de la Cheffe Pâtissière Morgane Raimbaud, Double Championne de France de dessert et Pâtissière Michelin 2021.
Avec Laurent Poultier du Mesnil, découvrez les coulisses et les petits secrets de l’art culinaire à la Française, en passant par le plus beau marché de Paris et les jolies cuisines du Restaurant Alliance, à l’ombre de la Cathédrale Notre-Dame.

PLUS D'INFOS :
https://www.restaurant-alliance.fr/
https://www.instagram.com/restaurant_alliance/
https://www.instagram.com/patisserie_alliance/
https://www.facebook.com/restaurant.alliance.paris

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Art et design

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00:00 Hello, dear friends. Today, to talk about culinary art in French,

00:05 I'm taking you to meet a very atypical chef,

00:08 who is passionate about French culinary art,

00:11 who is passionate about France, who is a great Francophile,

00:14 but who is Japanese.

00:16 You're going to tell me, what's the relationship between a Japanese and French cuisine?

00:20 Well, you'll see, he magnifies French cuisine.

00:22 So we're going to meet Chef Toshitaka Omiya,

00:26 who is a Michelin star chef,

00:28 and we're going to meet him on the market, before meeting him in his restaurant, Alliance.

00:32 So, see you in a moment for a very gourmet episode.

00:35 [Music]

01:04 Hello Chef Toshitaka Omiya.

01:06 Thank you for this meeting, but why did we meet here?

01:11 Because today I'm introducing you to one of our vegetable producers.

01:16 Every Wednesday he's here, and the products are the basis.

01:20 I spend every Wednesday to feel the season,

01:23 to take some vegetables, to make the tests too.

01:26 And above all, it's nice today, so we made an appointment outside.

01:29 Absolutely, very good.

01:31 So this market, this market of Yena,

01:34 is the market you prefer to do the shopping.

01:38 It's true that it's the market of the chefs, it's the most famous.

01:40 But to talk about culinary art, you wanted to show us the products first.

01:43 Yes, that's very important.

01:45 The products that will be used, of course, in your preparations from earlier.

01:49 Absolutely.

01:50 Well, let's follow you.

01:51 Let's go.

01:52 So I come every Wednesday, sometimes on Saturdays.

01:56 On Saturdays, to see the seasonal products, it's important for us.

02:01 Because our market sends me the list,

02:04 but I really need to see the seasonal products.

02:08 I need to touch them, I need to feel them.

02:10 That's important for my inspiration.

02:13 So I guess you have your merchants, your producers, here.

02:19 Absolutely.

02:20 It's magical.

02:21 Wait, let me stop.

02:22 We have all the potatoes from everywhere.

02:25 We have the little one from Noirmoutier.

02:27 That's really what's important, the market.

02:29 I see it, I stop.

02:31 Oh, that's nice, I didn't know that.

02:33 What is it?

02:34 You can ask the producer directly.

02:36 That's what's important, the exchange.

02:39 It's really important.

02:40 And do you still discover French products?

02:42 Yes.

02:43 Oh yes?

02:44 That's great.

02:45 I always discover new things.

02:47 That's what's impressive.

02:48 I'm impressed by the quality of the products,

02:51 by the diversity of what can be found.

02:53 There's everything here.

02:54 We can spend a whole morning here.

02:56 Absolutely.

02:57 That's the problem.

02:59 I come to the restaurant more and more often.

03:01 So this is a specialist.

03:06 Let me introduce him to you.

03:07 This is Valdemar, and Zida is here,

03:11 and his team is here.

03:13 This is a seasonal product.

03:14 Sometimes it's easy to work with,

03:17 sometimes it's difficult to work with,

03:18 because it really changes depending on the weather.

03:21 Right now, there are a lot of herbs.

03:24 The herbs are blooming.

03:26 It's nice to see these herbs.

03:28 What is this?

03:29 This is sage, chives, roquette, coriander.

03:32 It's spring, the sun is coming.

03:35 What is this herb?

03:36 This is sage.

03:40 Oh, it's sage.

03:41 Yes, it's sage.

03:42 I didn't recognize it.

03:43 The leaves are already smaller.

03:46 And the fact that they are in flowers.

03:48 Do you eat the flower too?

03:50 Yes, the flower too.

03:51 That's funny.

03:52 It's good.

03:53 It's very different from the leaf itself.

03:55 Absolutely.

03:56 And this, for example, is chive flower?

03:58 Absolutely.

03:59 I've never eaten it.

04:00 It's the same, you eat it.

04:01 You eat it.

04:02 Yes.

04:04 It's stronger, right?

04:05 Yes.

04:06 It's not bad.

04:07 Even in a sauce, that's great.

04:08 Absolutely.

04:09 It's just to give a little spice, a little pepper.

04:11 It's like we have a lot of things to learn here.

04:13 Absolutely great.

04:14 I have thyme flowers too, flowering.

04:17 Mint, parsley, coriander, in flowers too.

04:21 What is this good for?

04:22 It's good.

04:23 Oh yeah, to make a little fish sauce, that's not bad.

04:25 Fish too, and I use it for foie gras too.

04:28 Ah, on foie gras.

04:29 Poached foie gras, I use it.

04:31 Ah, interesting.

04:32 I take cherries.

04:33 They are beautiful, the cherries are beautiful.

04:35 For my customers and for my family.

04:37 I take.

04:38 Yes.

04:42 I can.

04:43 I tried.

04:44 And then you have another variety of small peas.

04:46 These are the wonders.

04:47 That's it, so in the end it's the first.

04:49 Yes, that's it, it's the very first.

04:51 But you see, we only harvested that yesterday for now.

04:54 So now it's coming back little by little.

04:56 And then you have the other variety of small peas, where we have a little more already.

05:00 It's good.

05:01 Two kilos.

05:02 I put two kilos on you?

05:03 Yes.

05:04 What I really appreciate is that not only here we are in a very short circuit,

05:09 and the products, we understood, working in areas of agriculture for me is very important.

05:14 Also, it's the fact that everything is really picked up at a chosen maturity.

05:19 And what I understand through the story of your small peas is that it changes everything.

05:23 Morality, you must not buy it in the supermarket, you must absolutely buy it from the producer or the seller.

05:29 I rediscover the foods.

05:33 That's what's extraordinary.

05:35 These almonds are very greedy, they are delicious.

05:37 You want to do with the apricot, you have to taste the apricot?

05:39 With pleasure, I will offer it to you.

05:41 Thank you very much.

05:42 So that's natural dried, so ...

05:44 It's caramelized, then the color.

05:46 Dried in the sun.

05:47 Tochi is right.

05:49 France will remain France by the quality of its products.

05:52 It is a culinary art that already begins with the producer.

05:56 So, Professor Laurent's minute.

05:58 Well, listen, it's very simple.

06:00 My advice is simply to buy seasonal fruits and vegetables.

06:05 Stop buying tomatoes in the middle of winter, it has no taste.

06:09 In addition, they come from afar, they grew under the greenhouse.

06:13 It's not good, it's not good for your health, it's not good for nature.

06:17 You really have to learn to cook seasonal products.

06:22 We rediscover nature in an incredible way.

06:25 And we rediscover the French culinary art.

06:29 In addition, by going to the markets, you will rediscover products.

06:33 Discover or rediscover products.

06:35 Like me, I discovered the chives flower.

06:38 So, morality, seasonal fruits and vegetables.

06:42 In addition, you will do good for your health.

06:44 So, we followed Chef Toshita Kaomiya on the market.

06:56 Well, now we're going to find him in his kitchens to taste his cuisine.

07:01 And believe me, it's not a mistake.

07:05 [Cooking]

07:08 [Cooking]

07:10 Superb!

07:36 Let's see.

07:38 So, Toshi, I recognize exactly what we saw on the market this morning.

07:46 Yes, on the market we took almonds, fresh almonds, almonds, salt, and natural dried apricots.

07:54 And then the white asparagus comes from the Champagne.

07:57 This morning we were welcomed by the Kayo family.

08:00 Today, it was Jean-Sebastien Kayo who brought us.

08:03 And then Jean-Marie Kayo's father made it.

08:06 So, the asparagus is one of the biggest in his family.

08:10 Okay.

08:11 And then after the sage, we made the asparagus with sage, it's classic, but it works better.

08:16 So, we made the natural sage with the passion fruit.

08:22 Ah!

08:23 It's nothing to do with the fruit of passion, but there is a taste of passion.

08:26 Ah, that's funny.

08:27 Here we are going to taste a bourguignon wine, Chablis from Christian Moreau, cuvee L'Epargue.

08:34 So, Sean, thank you for welcoming us into your home, into the secret part of your restaurant.

08:43 I know that you attach a lot of importance to culinary art, to this association "Mais" and "Vin",

08:50 but you especially to French wine.

08:53 Why? Why this passion for French wines?

08:56 Why? Because we have a fabulous terroir, varied, varied, generous in every way,

09:02 and we sweep the horizons north-south, which is quite rare for a country that produces wine.

09:07 In France, we are lucky to have so many possibilities that I am delighted to discover foreign wines on time,

09:13 but finally our clientele who comes to Paris, they also come from all over the world,

09:17 they come from all over France to also discover the wines of the territories they do not know.

09:22 So, we are going to taste the freshness of the Chardonnay and its minerality to accompany the power of the asparagus.

09:27 So, we have a very just cooking for the asparagus, it feels, no?

09:31 And these white asparagus from Champagne, what I really appreciate,

09:35 is the structure, the mass of the asparagus, which is very pleasant in addition.

09:39 The head of the asparagus is not the same, it is a cluster, so that's what's interesting too.

09:45 How do you work once Toshi has made the dishes or submitted the dishes to you?

09:50 How do you work?

09:51 So, after 12 years of collaboration with Toshi, we work like a couple, in confidence on many things.

09:57 And on the dishes I taste, I try to wonder what I would like to drink with the dish that Toshi has made.

10:04 Toshi in his kitchen makes a kitchen of instinct, a kitchen that he wants to make at the moment.

10:08 So, I think in the same way.

10:10 What is the wine that I would like to drink with this dish?

10:13 What is the wine that I would like to make the client taste at a given time?

10:16 Because from a lunch customer who comes in business to a dinner customer who comes in family,

10:21 on the same dish, you will not have the same expectation.

10:23 At Alliance, most of the order happens ultimately in the human relationship we have.

10:27 For the meal, it's the same, we're going to whisper to Toshi saying,

10:30 "Today it's pretty quiet, we're going to make them a nice meal, we're not going to go in all directions,

10:35 because they're not here for that, they're here to eat, have a good time,

10:39 but they don't necessarily need to be in the discovery of the house.

10:42 On the other hand, at other times, it's going to be, they're hot today,

10:45 we can please them, add three or four dishes, there's no problem, they have time.

10:48 Let's go, and we'll be able to have fun with the wines too.

10:51 At the moment, asparagus grows north of France.

10:54 Ah, you take it depending on the season.

10:56 Exactly, season.

10:57 So, it's optimal, so you take your asparagus there.

11:00 So, I didn't start in game, then it's Brittany too.

11:04 Ah, okay, every time you change land according to the season.

11:07 Always the product you like, but it's in the asparagus.

11:09 That's great.

11:10 And at the moment, it's pretty hot, so we need fresher champagne,

11:15 which works better for the asparagus.

11:18 It's great.

11:19 Frankly, it's pushing things to their paroxysm.

11:21 That's where you really need to know the French terroir.

11:23 My respects, Chef Tochy.

11:26 Thank you.

11:27 Knowing the French terroir like that, respecting the season,

11:31 the seasonality, the evolution of things, it's crazy.

11:34 We try to cook with the most natural products possible,

11:38 and we don't let it grow, we don't give it heat to grow.

11:42 So, inevitably, the season starts in the south and ends in the north.

11:47 That's great.

11:48 Today, for me, it's the asparagus that grows naturally in the north of France.

11:53 So, I'm preparing the Merlot de Ligne, Ikejime,

11:57 it's the way of fishing, and it comes from the North of Montpellier.

12:02 It's simply roasted in the oven, without any coloration,

12:06 we're really focused on cooking, to taste the product in the best possible condition.

12:12 With the classic white butter sauce, I infused the sea water

12:16 that I bought this morning at the market, and I also bought the sea water this morning.

12:20 How is your sauce made?

12:22 First, we make a shallot reduction with white wine,

12:26 a classic French stew.

12:29 Then, we add a little bit of cream and Merlot smoke,

12:34 and then we reduce it, and when it's done, we add rosemary,

12:37 to give the taste and freshness of rosemary.

12:39 I sometimes don't hesitate to impose on Toshi, when a wine is chosen at the beginning of a meal,

12:43 they took that, and focused more on the tasting, on the theme of the land, the theme of the sea,

12:48 on a particular vegetable, because we know what's going on.

12:50 We have two meetings a day to be very aware of what's going to happen in the kitchen and in the plates.

12:55 So, we even advise the client, but also the kitchen, depending on the wine chosen.

13:01 So, we work together. There's no decision that's made against the other,

13:05 but rather in alliance with the other.

13:07 That's what our association has been doing for 12 years.

13:10 The word "alliance" is well chosen.

13:12 I brought us to Bourgogne, to Jean-Pascal Sarnin and Jean-Marie Berru,

13:16 who are Bourguignon UFOs who came to the TAR for the vinification.

13:21 It's very pleasant with the navet, and at the same time, it respects the delicacy of the merlan,

13:25 thanks to the freshness of the wine and the chardonnay grapefruit used here in mono grapefruit.

13:28 My mother made merlan. I hated merlan, you have to know.

13:32 When I hear merlan, I say, "Well, I'll see what it's going to be."

13:35 It will necessarily be good, it's Toshi.

13:37 But here, frankly, it's excellent. You have to eat it.

13:40 Merlan is an incredible freshness.

13:42 And here we have its fragrance, which is still elegant.

13:45 Which is elegant, it's an elegant fish. It's quite surprising.

13:49 I rediscover merlan, thanks to you.

13:51 My regret is that my mother did not meet you to learn how to cook it.

13:55 We are hungry. We are very hungry.

14:02 Ah!

14:03 Ah, it's pretty as all.

14:06 It's very elegant. Very, very elegant.

14:09 So, announce.

14:11 So we made the roasted pigeon. The pigeon has just been sold.

14:16 With the cucumber we bought at the market this morning,

14:19 we made the roasted pigeon with cumin seeds.

14:23 And then we made the little roll of the confit thigh with cucumber.

14:28 And next to it, we made the apatier tartine with cucumber flower in tempura.

14:33 Cucumber flower?

14:34 Cucumber flower.

14:35 Ah, interesting.

14:36 Chef, I'm waiting for Toshi, after you.

14:39 Shall we go?

14:40 Let's go.

14:41 Bon appétit.

14:42 Thank you.

14:44 Incredible.

14:45 The taste of the pigeon is already very fine and the flavors are very present.

14:50 We enjoy the taste of the pigeon.

14:52 It's important, the taste of the product.

14:54 The product in the center is really important for me.

14:56 We have fun with the freshness of the cucumber,

14:58 one of the first cucumbers, and the freshness of different cumin seeds

15:02 that remain in the mouth at the end.

15:04 Chaud, a trap question, of course, from me.

15:06 I'm always a little...

15:07 What is your favorite bottle here?

15:09 Difficult, because I'm going to get upset.

15:12 I'm coming.

15:13 Is it French?

15:16 Obviously.

15:17 I see opium, so I was afraid.

15:19 Things happen.

15:20 Okay.

15:21 This is a beautiful story of love for French landowners.

15:24 We are at two vineyards, Rotem and Mounir Saouma,

15:26 people of Lebanese origin who have been in France for decades,

15:29 who have infused their knowledge with wine and who have performed their knowledge in Burgundy

15:35 and who have enjoyed buying plots in the Orange region in the Rhône Valley.

15:40 And there we are enjoying ourselves with a work on a combination of Grenache and Syrah.

15:44 It's a Rhone coast as we do little of it.

15:46 These are crunchy, greedy, round Rhônes.

15:49 We do not seek to be dispendent on the power of the wine,

15:53 but rather to work on the depth and its elegance.

15:55 And that's a wine that I would like to drink today, for example.

15:58 So, where did this passion come from?

16:00 You talked earlier about the market, about your passion for French cuisine.

16:04 It comes from your childhood.

16:06 It's thanks to my parents.

16:08 I was interested in French cuisine because my parents loved to go to French restaurants.

16:15 So I used to go to restaurants.

16:17 I used to see what was going on in the restaurant, why they were there.

16:21 They were there to enjoy.

16:22 And I've always had this philosophy.

16:24 I learned a lot about philosophy and techniques, which are different from other chefs.

16:34 And above all, respect for the product.

16:36 Respect for the product, trust in the product.

16:39 And he works on the French product, or the product itself.

16:45 He makes the vegetables, he makes himself.

16:48 So I learned a lot about pleasure in working on the product.

16:53 And then I realized that you have to trust the product.

16:58 And so at that point, I realized that as chefs, we're not there to show who we are.

17:03 We're there to help, to promote the taste of French products and for our customers.

17:09 How do you properly taste a wine?

17:12 It all depends, of course, on the axis.

17:14 Is it a wine that we're going to taste for a sharing wine?

17:17 Is it a wine that we're going to taste at a table, in a private or family sharing?

17:21 To taste a wine, I think you have to be in good condition.

17:24 Being in a bad mood when you drink wine isn't very pleasant.

17:28 You drink to drink, you don't drink for pleasure.

17:30 So for me, a wine is tasted at a table or among friends around a barbecue that is heating up, for example.

17:36 And we're not going to approach the same wines.

17:38 First, the temperature.

17:39 Drinking a wine too hot or too cold is a shame for the vineyard, which has worked for a year at a minimum for the result of what happens in the bottle.

17:46 And several years of aging in the dry and in the cellars of the establishments that keep it.

17:52 To taste a wine, the essential is obviously the temperature.

17:55 Ideally, the glass, the table and especially the company.

18:00 So on the Pigeon with the freshness of the cumin, I wanted to make a fresh wine with a little mineral structure.

18:08 So we went looking for a wine on the Jurassic heights, a wine of Arbois, on a multi-sepage.

18:14 An assembly of Pulsar, Trousseau and Pinot Noir.

18:17 Like Toshi, I make choices of instincts, choices of moments.

18:21 The Pigeon simply called this wine.

18:24 We have the very general taste of the Pigeon flesh, we have the freshness of the cucumber and the perfume of the cumin.

18:29 It's a wine that won't get lost in the taste of the dish, but we'll be able to enjoy the very delicate side and at the same time the mineral structure.

18:37 It's fun because it goes perfectly with the power we had earlier with the Zabac and with the Pigeon itself.

18:43 It's really very, very pleasant.

18:45 Thank you, congratulations to both of you for this very, very beautiful moment.

18:50 To France!

18:53 There has been a lot of evolution in French cuisine.

18:56 We know from the time of King Louis XIV that there was a lot of art involved.

19:02 We brought everything to the table, but the dishes were getting cold, so the cooking was not very fair, etc.

19:07 We had to wait until the 19th to have this service, which is a service in the street, between dishes and desserts.

19:14 The dishes have also evolved a lot.

19:16 We did a lot of sauce cooking.

19:18 We see that the sauces are still there.

19:20 This is the French spirit.

19:22 We have reduced juices, etc.

19:24 We have a real, real job.

19:25 We saw the presentation, it is very neat, very, very neat.

19:29 How do you see the trends today of this French culinary art?

19:33 Today we are able to do something good thanks to the classic technique, the history of French cuisine.

19:43 And thanks to that, we are able to do something today, which is, as you said, purer, more precise.

19:52 I think that today, people, including me, we already want to eat the product.

19:59 And the product has always existed in France.

20:03 It is a country that has a lot of good products, all the dairy products, the protein, the fish, the fruits, the vegetables, everything.

20:11 We have a magnificent land for the product.

20:15 But in my analysis, France is too big, very, very big.

20:22 So 50 years ago, 100 years ago, maybe, unfortunately, there was not enough good transport.

20:31 When you put 48 hours to get the foie gras into the kitchen, unfortunately, during the 48 hours, the quality of the product, unfortunately, decreases.

20:44 So it comes out, I think it's the taste, not very pleasant.

20:49 And then there is a smell, not very pleasant.

20:51 So, systematically, we had to hide, in quotes, we had to hide it by the four spices, the cognac, the porto, to eat the foie gras correctly.

21:02 But today, thanks to the evolution of transport, the foie gras comes out in the morning and at lunchtime, it is there in the kitchen, fresh.

21:10 Hello Morgane.

21:18 Hello Laurent.

21:19 So, Morgane, what did you bring us?

21:21 I brought you from the shop a meringue lemon pie and a green chiso strawberry pavlova.

21:27 So we're going to find a Breton sablé here, then we have a creamy yellow lemon, a yellow lemon confit and a green lemon and limquat confit, which is covered with an Italian meringue.

21:42 Chef, we're on the attack?

21:43 We're going, we're on the attack.

21:44 You have to like the intensity of the bitterness with the different confits.

21:49 You completely forget the classic lemon pie.

21:51 So, the pavlova, so already at the base, we find meringue, a whipped cream and fruits, with good Garreguet and Drim strawberries, French strawberries, and the green chiso for the slightly anised and herbaceous side.

22:05 So we also have the chocolate inspired by Yuzu, which will protect this meringue shell, which will bring a little crunch and an interesting acidity that will blend well with the rest.

22:16 It's honestly one of my favorite cuts.

22:19 Well, listen, it was great. Here's another great moment we've had thanks to you.

22:24 I thank you all three very much.

22:28 French culinary art at its peak.

22:31 There's nothing to say about that.

22:34 We're coming to the end of our show. I'd like you to give us, traditionally we have to give, your favorite period. What is your favorite period?

22:43 The period I rather wanted to talk about was the season.

22:47 Ah, the season.

22:49 The season, at this time, spring, early summer, there's the sun, there's good energy, sun. At this time, I'm in my favorite period.

23:01 Your favorite artist?

23:03 I'm a great cook. My artist is the cook, Mr. Passard.

23:08 Alain Passard.

23:09 Alain Passard, whom I worked with, of course, at his place, at Arpèges.

23:13 Up until then, I've seen a lot of great chefs, but it's the first time I've seen an artist cook.

23:21 Now, your favorite work?

23:25 It's the daily life. It's not something that exists, but it changes all the time.

23:31 But the daily life, especially my favorite season at this time, the sun.

23:38 Once again, it's the same thing, but when I see that, I take a picture and then I analyze it.