Deadliest Roads _ Bangladesh
In this episode, we follow the thousands of Bangladeshi muslims making the six hour pilgrimage to Dhaka. Traveling on a hugely hot and overcrowded train, some choose to find space on the roof. Ducking bridges and trying not to slip off, countless people have fallen to their deaths. “If you die, no one cares and you are eaten by the dogs.”
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01:00Kokung goes through this daily ritual
01:02in the early morning, seven days a week.
01:06I look after my rickshaw.
01:08It's my work tool.
01:09If it's not properly maintained, I'm a bad worker.
01:12It's what feeds me.
01:17His old rickshaw weighs 90 kilos,
01:19but according to Kokung,
01:20riding it isn't the most tiring aspect.
01:31Getting around the streets of Dakar, the capital,
01:33means the rickshaw driver needs nerves of steel.
01:41Yeah, move along a bit.
01:50In the streets of Dakar, there are millions of cars.
01:53You need a sharp brain to react quickly.
01:57You must think one step ahead to avoid accidents.
02:08Be careful.
02:11Crossing the city is not the easiest for passengers either.
02:1515 million people live here.
02:1843,000 inhabitants per square kilometer,
02:21the heaviest concentration of humanity on the planet.
02:27Look, there's a traffic jam down there.
02:29I'm going to take a detour to get by.
02:32In Dakar, you must never ever let yourself get stuck.
02:37Or you'll suffer the consequences immediately.
02:40The capital's become too small for its population.
02:44The street can no longer handle the volume of traffic.
02:48It's not unusual to be stuck between 4 and 6 hours, bumper to bumper.
02:53Kokung and his clients soon find themselves trapped.
02:59In a rickshaw, you know when you leave,
03:01but you'll never know when you'll arrive.
03:05Most of the time, I leave hours in advance
03:07to avoid arriving late for work.
03:10You never know what you'll come across,
03:12a big traffic jam or even a small one.
03:14How can you live like this without ever being sure?
03:18Come on, get out of my way.
03:31Kokung spends five hours a day,
03:33seven days a week on his rickshaw without protest.
03:38He cannot afford to complain.
03:41He pedals for three euros a day.
03:43It's enough to survive on.
03:55This is the worst job in the world.
03:59Transporting passengers and their baggage by cycling.
04:03It's work that animals should be doing.
04:08If you want to work, you have to accept the good and especially the bad.
04:15His troubles are by no means over.
04:17In a few days, a massive wave of 6 million people will descend on Dhaka
04:21and invade the streets of the city.
04:25Every year, the capital, Bangladesh, plays host to Ijema,
04:29the largest Muslim pilgrimage in the world after Mecca.
04:35But the country's infrastructure is very run down
04:39and not able to properly handle the millions of pilgrims.
04:42The trains are taken by storm.
04:46Move! Come on, get out of it.
04:52The greatest risk comes from when we go under bridges.
04:55You have to be really careful.
04:58Bangladesh is one of the poorest countries in the world.
05:01One child in eight is forced to work to help his family.
05:07You need to be cunning to earn a potato.
05:11Crafty to catch a fish.
05:16And be ready to suffer to find some gold.
05:31Far from the chaos of Dhaka, a handful of men are preparing for a difficult journey.
05:46Safiq, the imam of the village of Mungonj,
05:49is accompanying his congregation on the Ijema pilgrimage.
05:5490% of the country is Muslim,
05:58and a train has been especially hired for the event.
06:08It's the final moments of calm before the chaos begins.
06:13Food supplies, pots, pans, blankets.
06:17The group has enough to keep them going for five days.
06:21One hour before departure, Safiq, the imam, checks that nothing has been forgotten.
06:26Take care. You need to tighten that up properly.
06:31We need to bring everything back.
06:35We need to bring everything back.
06:40We need to bring everything with us for the Ijema pilgrimage.
06:44Water, oil, fruits.
06:50Everything that we can.
06:54We try to bring as much food as possible.
06:58Because once we're in Dhaka, in the pilgrimage,
07:02there are so many people that it's difficult to get to the shops.
07:06And it's almost impossible to move around.
07:13The majority of pilgrims are very poor.
07:17Many have saved each penny for two or three months
07:21to be able to make the journey.
07:25It's a real sacrifice.
07:29Is everything loaded?
07:33Bring what's left on board. Come on.
07:37We know the trip will be very hard, especially today with this train.
07:41There will be so many people.
07:45This will not be a normal journey,
07:49especially for those that won't have a seat.
07:53Safiq can smile. He reserved their places months earlier.
07:57As for the rest, it's a matter of first come, first served.
08:01Come along. This is my place.
08:05Have you found your seat?
08:09Well, sit down. You, come here.
08:13Seat number six is free.
08:17Oh, this looks good. I think there will be plenty of people this year.
08:21Well, you'll just have to sit wherever you can find a place.
08:25Is this the train for the pilgrimage? Is this the one?
08:29It's a race for the last seats available.
08:33And to get one, it's each man for himself.
08:45I was very lucky to get a seat in this packed train.
08:49Well, so many people will have to stand for the whole journey.
08:53For some, that means six hours.
08:59Despite the crush,
09:03the joy of being part of the pilgrimage lifts everyone's spirits.
09:11Salam aleikum, my uncle.
09:15And have a great pilgrimage.
09:19To everybody's surprise, the train leaves on time,
09:23which catches some underwear.
09:27Is this carriage 27?
09:31These are fish for my mistress.
09:39Do you want to climb in?
09:43You can't. It's too late.
09:47The car is only 200 kilometers away,
09:51but in Bangladesh, no one can guarantee what time the train will arrive
09:55as the journey holds plenty of surprises.
10:01Oh, that's a good start.
10:05I'm happy.
10:09The train stops at about 15 stations,
10:13but that's not including any unexpected stops.
10:21Safiq, the imam, is praying with Doha,
10:25a member of his community.
10:29Doha is one of the oldest cities in the world.
10:33It has a population of over 1,000,000.
10:37It's Doha's third pilgrimage.
10:41Well, now it's fine.
10:45We're at the start of the trip, and there are still some places.
10:49But the further we go, the more people there will be
10:53and the more crowded the train will become.
10:57All Bangladeshis dream of going on Ichema,
11:01but the journey is so hard that for the old and the sick, it's impossible.
11:05Even rich people give up because of the difficulties.
11:21The trains are uncomfortable and drafty
11:25and date from the British colonial period.
11:29They've hardly been modernized since.
11:33These trains have been used since 1917.
11:37Of course, the country has developed.
11:41There used to be steam engines and then diesel locomotives like this one.
11:45But the carriages have not changed at all.
11:49One day, they announced that we would have new,
11:53more modern express trains.
11:57The people went mad with joy.
12:01It'll be fantastic.
12:05The seats will be much more comfortable.
12:09But when we saw the new trains, we were so disappointed.
12:13They're as bad as they ever were, except now they're even more expensive.
12:21It's best to have brought your own food for the journey,
12:25as getting to the restaurant car is quite a challenge.
12:29But tormented by hunger, Doha decides to try it.
12:35Move your leg, please.
12:43To get something to eat, you need to push.
12:47Can you move up?
12:53Oh, what a mess.
12:59See what we have to go through?
13:03Excuse me.
13:07Nobody complains, though, because going by road in Bangladesh is far more dangerous.
13:11Oh, my God.
13:15In Bangladesh, you have to ride on top of each other
13:19to get to where you want.
13:23Sometimes people even sit in the toilets.
13:27If you need to urinate, you just have to dirty your clothes.
13:41The unexpected stop provides Doha with some relief.
13:49This is good, as I don't want to go to the restaurant car anymore.
13:53There's no way through.
13:57Right, I'm going back to my seat.
14:03The thousands of pilgrims, however, are a godsend
14:07to the young sellers of vegetable snacks waiting on the platform.
14:11Most are orphans, and some have been working from as young as five years old.
14:15Hot samosas.
14:19I'm a new like.
14:27My name's Atiku.
14:31My father's a rickshaw driver. My mother's dead.
14:35I have two young brothers and a sister.
14:39The tide of passengers is unending,
14:43and getting on board a carriage is now almost impossible.
14:49The overspill finds its way onto the carriage roofs.
15:09The roof is barely two meters wide and slightly rounded,
15:13not to mention slippery.
15:17Woe betide those who doze off as the jolting of the train can haul them over the side.
15:37Well, usually you're not allowed to climb on the roof.
15:41We do it as there's no more room below.
15:45The greatest danger is going under bridges.
15:49You have to be very careful then.
15:53Get down, get down.
16:01My wife died a few days ago.
16:05She wasn't paying attention and was hit by a bridge.
16:09She was killed outright.
16:13The cost every year is unknown, but even the most experienced can be caught by surprise.
16:17Sit down.
16:21The young salesmen earn a living by risking their own lives every day.
16:25Arsham has been dodging death since the age of 10.
16:29I'm not an amateur.
16:33I hang on tight.
16:37The first time I climbed on top, I was petrified.
16:41A man came and carried me on his shoulders.
16:45And from then on, I practiced getting on and off.
16:49Now I've taken to the roof like a fish to water.
16:53See how I walk?
16:57It's OK, no need to move.
17:01I can get by, no problem.
17:05I can get to one wagon, to another too, see?
17:13Those that are just starting are scared.
17:17You mustn't think about it too much.
17:21If you stop to think, you're dead.
17:25You mustn't think of your parents or wife who'll cry if you're killed.
17:29If fear wins, then you're dead.
17:33I need to go now. Bye.
17:43He leaps off the train,
17:47which is going at about 30 kilometers an hour.
17:57There's still a long way to go,
18:01though no one's quite sure when the train will arrive in the capital.
18:09In Dhaka, the life expectancy of rickshaw drivers and others
18:13who pull carts through the streets seldom extends beyond 40 years of age.
18:17Accidents, pollution, and physical wear and tear
18:21take a heavy toll.
18:25After three hours, Kokon can pedal no longer.
18:31He rests at the back of the rickshaw garage for free
18:35in exchange for some basic guard duties.
18:43I sleep in this corner.
18:47This is my blanket,
18:51the mosquito net,
18:55and my clothes.
18:59The money I save on rent,
19:03I send home.
19:07I have a wife and two children to feed.
19:15Of course, this work is very difficult.
19:19I'm still better than having to force this sort of misery on my family.
19:29Poor people like me who live with their family
19:33are suffering very much.
19:37Misery leads to family ruin.
19:41Come, I'll show you the slums.
19:45Then you'll understand.
19:59In Bangladesh, there are millions of people
20:03who don't even have a roof over their heads.
20:07Thousands of rickshaw drivers live in the slums
20:11or in the streets.
20:15I don't want to. I refuse.
20:19I'd rather not live with my family.
20:23I don't want to.
20:27I'd rather not live with my family.
20:31Those that earn enough can afford a home for their families.
20:35The others live like rats.
20:43I refuse to make my family suffer through that.
20:47Kokon's sacrifices means his two children can attend school.
20:51They're lucky, as education rarely comes from the slums.
20:55It's resourcefulness that has to be found at an early age.
21:03This small band has become skilled at stealing vegetables from the market.
21:19Three and a half million people are crammed
21:23into Kokon's numerous shanty towns.
21:31In his slave-like existence, Kokon allows himself the small luxury
21:35of telephoning his family in their village.
21:39He sees them just once every two months.
21:43Give me the phone, please.
21:47How are you and the kids?
21:51As soon as my daughter's old enough to marry,
21:55I'll give up the rickshaw.
21:59I'll open a small shop.
22:03Otherwise, my daughter's life will be ruined.
22:07No one wants a rickshaw driver as a father-in-law.
22:11It's too miserable. It's embarrassing.
22:15And in the meanwhile, in order to pay for my daughter's dowry,
22:19Kokon is hiring off his daughter,
22:23especially as traditionally it's paid in gold.
22:27The goldsmith's neighborhood is Tanti Bazar,
22:31in the old part of Dakar.
22:43Not much has changed here since the 18th century.
22:493,000 people work here, melting and fashioning gold.
23:13The workshops close when the muezzin makes the day's last call to prayers.
23:19Three shadows slip discreetly
23:23through the streets of the gold district
23:27at about nine in the evening.
23:35Give me the stick.
23:39Once a month, Ghazi and his two employees
23:43search through the sewers.
23:47These are the waste waters from the goldsmiths.
23:51The workshops are just behind, and their pipes empty out here.
23:55Thousands of liters of human waste
23:59end up down the opening to the sewer.
24:03When they work the gold,
24:07there's always some dust that flies off.
24:11And when they go to the toilet,
24:15it goes down into the sewers.
24:19Now, if we can collect that gold dust,
24:23it will earn us enough to eat.
24:27Should we empty all the water? Of course.
24:31It's a process that will take all night.
24:35If we worked in the day, people would complain
24:39because of the smell.
24:43The smell doesn't bother me anymore.
24:47Gold has to be earned,
24:51and to find it means diving down.
24:55Specks of gold are mixed with human excrement.
24:59Now I'll squash down all the mud in one pile below my feet.
25:03And once it's packed together,
25:07I'll put it in the bucket.
25:11For the first few years, Shah Alam felt nauseous,
25:15but now no longer even complains.
25:19He's a man of his word.
25:23I do this because it's all I know.
25:27Unfortunately, it's all I can do.
25:31But at least I can eat.
25:35With the crisis, however,
25:39less gold jewelry is being produced,
25:43and there's far less gold dust in the sewers.
25:47In the past, there were more of us prospectors.
25:51There were at least 150 people.
25:55But with less money to be made, they've given up.
25:59Nowadays, there's maybe about 50 of us.
26:03The water's cold this time of year.
26:27I first rinsed off in freezing water,
26:31and then finished my work, and then take a hot shower.
26:41Ten hours' work to fill two buckets with mud,
26:45which then needs to be sifted.
27:01Now I'm filtering this to remove any lighter earth.
27:05All that will be left is the heavier substances.
27:19Ghazi has been a gold hunter for 30 years.
27:23He first plunged into the sewers at age 14.
27:27I learned from the experts.
27:31I didn't like it at the start.
27:35Digging around in all this shit, I thought it was dirty.
27:39It upset me.
27:43But they slowly persuaded me, and after a few months,
27:47my shame disappeared, and I got used to this work.
27:51I still can't see any gold, but I feel there is some.
27:59There's one more stage.
28:03It's a delicate operation, and it's uncertain
28:07if there'll be enough gold to pay all three of them.
28:21After four hours and a dozen stops into the journey,
28:25the train which is transporting Safiq the imam and his pilgrims
28:29is making slow progress towards Dakar.
28:33The old locomotive doesn't date back to colonial times
28:37like the carriages, but it's hardly modern either.
28:41Mohammed, the driver, is focused.
28:45In Bangladesh, the railways aren't protected,
28:49and people have a habit of using them as a road.
28:53Now look at those people on the rails.
28:57They can cause accidents.
29:01I'm blowing the horn to make them move off.
29:05Despite the crowds, Mohammed pushes the old diesel engine to the limit,
29:09and the monster manages 60 kilometers an hour almost blindly.
29:13I can't see much through these dirty windows.
29:17It's a problem, as I can't even see the signals.
29:25And there used to be windscreen wipers,
29:29but they've been removed.
29:33And a speedometer would be good too,
29:37but we don't have one.
29:41And an emergency brake would be helpful,
29:45but we don't have that either.
29:49If someone crosses in front,
29:53they can't stop.
29:57It's a bit of a problem.
30:01It's a bit of a problem.
30:05It's a bit of a problem.
30:09It's a bit of a problem.
30:13It's a bit of a problem.
30:17If someone crosses in front, what can I do?
30:21If I suddenly brake, the carriages will tip over
30:25and thousands will die.
30:29So I just carry on. I don't brake.
30:35I've never had an accident, thank God.
30:41Not one accident in a 30-year career.
30:45But the worst danger is never far away on the train.
30:49For some, it's even exciting.
30:53Fearless street kids have even made it their playground.
30:57They call themselves the train kings.
31:01We've nothing else to do today.
31:05We fool around, being stupid.
31:09My parents don't want me to climb on top of the train,
31:13but if I want to, up here we're free.
31:17But we know that if we fall off, no one will look after us.
31:21That's just how it is.
31:25If I fall, the dogs will eat me next to the track.
31:43For more UN videos visit www.un.org
32:14In Dhaka, Ghazi, the gold prospector,
32:18will finally find out how many grams of precious metal
32:22he's recovered from the bottom of the sewers.
32:44Blow hard.
32:48Of all the mud collected overnight, only a handful remains.
32:52Like an alchemist, Ghazi uses a powerful acid
32:56to extract the gold.
33:00You see, the acid will dissolve the other metals.
33:06The fumes from the acid affect their lungs
33:10and attacks the skin and eyes.
33:14But they don't seem to realize it.
33:22It's very bad for the lungs.
33:26It can give you asthma.
33:30To separate the gold from the mud, Ghazi uses mercury,
33:34a very toxic substance.
33:40The gold's stuck to the mercury now.
33:46Heated to 400 degrees centigrade, the metal gives off toxic vapors,
33:50worse than acid.
33:54It attacks the workers' kidneys and brains.
34:00Once evaporated, what remains is a pure gold nugget.
34:04There's less than a gram here.
34:08It should fetch 15 euros.
34:1415 euros, a paltry sum extracted
34:18from the bottom of the sewers of Dhaka.
34:22At one time, I was living quite well off the gold.
34:26Now that's all in the past.
34:30It's getting worse day by day.
34:36I should have stopped.
34:40I made the wrong choice, and it saddens me.
34:44The gold cycle is endless.
34:48The three men will sell the gold back to the shop from which it escaped.
34:52Here's the nugget.
34:56It's broken.
35:00I squashed it to make sure it was pure gold,
35:04not base metal.
35:08Wait.
35:16How much will you give me?
35:2011 euros.
35:26I've made 11 euros.
35:30We'll divide it between the three of us.
35:3411 euros, four less than he'd hoped for.
35:40After a night down the sewers,
35:44Ghazi's workday is far from finished.
35:48When he returns to the room where he lives with his wife and three children,
35:52the tiny home becomes a workshop.
35:58We do this every night with my wife and children.
36:02We work until 11 at night.
36:06We make 400 of them for the equivalent of 2 euros 40.
36:14If my husband had been able to have a better education,
36:18he might have been able to open a grocery store or some kind of shop.
36:22That's why we sacrifice everything to educate our children.
36:26My husband and I are uncultured,
36:30but I dream that nobody will be able to say the same about children
36:34and that they are never ashamed like we are.
36:38Many children don't go to school.
36:42I'm very lucky my parents send me.
36:46My dream is to become a businessman.
36:50I'll travel abroad and bring my parents with me.
36:54It's different in other countries.
36:58It's beautiful.
37:02There wasn't enough money for her sister to continue school.
37:06She now works with her parents to be able to pay for her younger brothers.
37:18Dakar is not far away now for the Pilgrims.
37:22At every stop, the train is literally assaulted.
37:26It's a real nightmare.
37:30The station master is overwhelmed.
37:34All those without tickets needs to buy one as quickly as possible,
37:38either at the ticket office or from the inspectors.
37:42Controlling such large numbers is impossible
37:46and the only practical measure is to prevent accidents.
37:50All those on the roof, please remain seated.
38:00Move up, there's still room.
38:12It's war.
38:16As soon as the train arrives, it's under attack.
38:24We'll fall off.
38:30Get out of the way.
38:34It's risky climbing up here
38:38and you're pushing us to take our places.
38:42Move up.
38:46I'm here now and I'm not moving.
38:50Well, climb down then if you're scared.
38:54Stop arguing.
38:58But he's taken my friend's place.
39:10There's too many people. It's packed.
39:14I'll try my luck elsewhere.
39:18Some know how to make hard cash from all this chaos.
39:22A few smart operators rent out their ladders.
39:2820 takers to climb up.
39:34You need to pay to climb up here.
39:38For six people, 30 takers.
39:52Business isn't good. People try to sneak up.
39:56You, if you want to get up, it's 10 takers.
40:00But you charge us money and there's no room.
40:04Give me my money back. Me too.
40:08The train is about to leave.
40:12And the police intervene.
40:16The cops are here. Let's go.
40:20Quick, go away.
40:26No problem.
40:30It's all under control.
40:34You'd think it was chaos.
40:38But really, people are disciplined.
40:42Look around.
40:46Water, water.
40:50I'll try and go as far as I can hanging on like this.
40:54We'll all have to die one day.
40:58I'll leave it up to Allah.
41:10Hang on.
41:24Hang on.
41:54Go on, make some room for me, please.
42:18Far from this confusion,
42:22there are those struggling to maintain an honourable life
42:26and stop their children ending up in the slums.
42:34This is the Sundarban in the south of the country,
42:38where the river Ganges flows into the Gulf of Bengal.
42:42It's the largest mangrove forest in the world.
42:46At low tide, the silence is broken by some strange cries.
42:50They're made by these tame otters.
42:54They're not pets, but working animals.
43:02It's a lot easier to fish with them.
43:10They dive down to the roots, you see.
43:14They drive the fish into the nets.
43:18Go on, hunt.
43:22Using otters to fish goes back many centuries.
43:26Like his forefathers, Kumar trained his four animals himself.
43:34Go, hunt, dive.
43:38We live with them, so we understand each other.
43:42You see, as soon as I move the stick, they dive.
43:46Go on, hunt.
43:56Go on.
44:00We taught them this language when they were tiny.
44:04The movements of our feet and our hands
44:08are a language that they understand now.
44:12I need to move a lot so that they work properly.
44:20But the nets draw in few fish.
44:24Every passing year, there are less fish in the waters of the mangrove.
44:28Pollution and overpopulation are the main causes.
44:32With 160 million inhabitants,
44:36Bangladesh is one of the world's most densely populated nations.
44:40In the old days, these waters were teeming with fish.
44:44These days, there are far less.
44:48That's because so many people live here now.
44:52They rely on fishing to feed themselves.
44:56Fishing is exhausting, yet Kumar pushes his men
45:00and animals to the limit.
45:04There are more fish at the end of low tide,
45:08unfortunately for the fishermen,
45:12there's no miraculous catch.
45:16Come on, it's finished now.
45:24All the money we earn every month, we bring home.
45:28We buy rice, lentils and everything we need.
45:32And we return here to make some more money and so on and so forth.
45:36They know it's time to eat.
45:40That's why they're so upset.
45:44The voraciousness of the otters is a problem for the fishermen.
45:48The four of them devour between three and five kilos of fish a day.
45:52It's almost half the catch.
45:56Sometimes if we don't find enough fish,
46:00we need to buy some for the otters.
46:04And won't fish anymore.
46:08So we go to the market and buy fish.
46:12We lose money.
46:34It's OK. Can I light up the stove?
46:38Tonight, Kumar and his men will not eat as well as the otters.
46:42We're eight and we'll share two fish.
46:46And they're not big ones either.
46:50But that's all we caught.
46:54This tough, uncomfortable life is not one
46:58they think their children will want to follow.
47:04They're almost certainly the last otter fishermen of Bangladesh.
47:18The horn blasts finally announced the arrival in Dhaka.
47:22A relief for some, agony for others.
47:26You have to block your ears the whole time.
47:30These fog horns can make you deaf.
47:54Some pilgrims spent all eight hours of the journey
47:58standing.
48:02Others squeezed on top of others.
48:06Even the lucky ones, such as Safik and Doha,
48:10are at the end of their tether.
48:14I'm exhausted, very tired.
48:18But I'm happy because we're close to Dhaka.
48:22This hard journey will soon be over.
48:28I'm so happy.
48:32God be praised.
48:36We'll walk in the footsteps of Allah.
48:46Get the baggage.
48:50Hurry up.
48:54The hardest thing now for the imam
48:58is not to lose his congregation in the crowds.
49:02Go that way and follow the crowds.
49:10A tide of humanity.
49:14Millions of people converge on the prayer sites.
49:18Safik and his group will camp out
49:22and pray and meditate for three days.
49:30The location is not a holy Islamic site,
49:34but every year scholars from around the world come to spread the good word.
49:38For the six million Muslim faithful,
49:42following these teachings gives a sense to their lives.
49:46In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
49:52In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
49:56In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:00In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:04In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:22In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:26In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:30In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:34In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:38In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:42In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:46In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.
50:50In Bangladesh, a life often made up of sacrifice.