• 10 months ago
Join us as we delve into Outlook's latest issue exploring the intricate relationship between tribal identity and clothing. Discover how clothing serves as a powerful symbol of cultural heritage and resistance for tribal communities across India. From the controversy over Mother Mary's attire in Jharkhand to the rich symbolism woven into indigenous textiles, we explore the deep-rooted connections between clothing and identity.

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00:00 Outlook brings to you excerpts from its latest issue titled 'Adivasi' or 'The Earliest Inhabitants'.
00:07 This issue of Outlook looks at the politics of appropriation and resistance in the wake of recent
00:13 developments in the states like Jharkhand and the Union Territory of Ladakh. With the general
00:19 elections due this year, it remains to be seen how the Adivasis, who form more than 8% of the total
00:27 population, participate and how the identity politics shape up in the future. From the substrata,
00:35 Outlook's back of the book section that goes beyond the usual. 'Weaves of their lives' by
00:40 Vinita Mokil from Outlook. Clothing is inseparably linked to tribal identity. Each tribe has a unique
00:48 design language. Every embellishment, weave and motif has a special meaning to the community.
00:55 A few years ago, a newly erected statue of Mother Mary in Singur village in Ranchi district sparked
01:01 a controversy that echoed across Jharkhand. The reason, Mary was depicted wearing a white sari
01:08 with a red border. Members of the Sarna dharma, the faith which many tribes in Jharkhand follow,
01:14 objected to the sari. Sarna elders threatened to remove the statue from the village unless the
01:20 attire was changed. Dressing Mother Mary in a red and white sari, worn by Jharkhandi tribal women,
01:27 was seen as a tactic to convert Sarna tribals to Christianity. The sari, a distinct marker of
01:34 tribal identity, was weighted with religious and cultural meanings. Red and white are prominent
01:41 tribal colours, says fashion designer, Aashi Satyavrat, founder of Ranchi-based Joragram.
01:47 In tribal philosophy, red represents blood and sacrifice and white symbolizes peace.
01:54 Clothing, indigenous textiles, weaves, colours, patterns and motifs are all inseparably linked
02:03 to tribal identity. A weave is not just a weave. Stripes, shapes and patterns are rooted in a
02:10 tribe's lived experience. Embellishments like beads, feathers, stones, motifs such as flowers,
02:18 animals, mountains or trees, none of these are random choices. Each tribe has its own special
02:25 design language, which is a rich form of creative expression. It springs from their mythology,
02:32 worldview and daily life. There is a specific significance to every colour, fabric and weave.
02:39 For instance, Assamese tribal textiles feature motifs drawn from the wildlife of Kaziranga,
02:45 especially the deer and the rhino, the motif of the japi, a headgear used for protection from the
02:52 sun and Pokila, the butterfly motif. In Tawang, the land chosen by a horse, according to legend,
02:59 the horse is a familiar motif in tribal textiles. As so is the peacock and the elephant,
03:06 animals with this worship. For this and more, read the latest issue of Outlook.

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