The 20th showing of New York Men's Day presented ten emerging menswear and genderless designers during New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2024 over two floors at Location05 and Daylight Studio. We chat with the designers from A. Potts, B | M | C, Clara Son, Kent Anthony, and Terry Singh about their latest collections.
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00:00 (upbeat music)
00:02 So this collection is entitled Urban Ur,
00:13 and I wanted to capture this vibe of New York City,
00:18 but meets nature.
00:20 The collection is probably like 75% cotton.
00:23 So it's light, airy, crisp, clean.
00:27 I have this amazing gold fabric.
00:29 It's called Tyvek.
00:31 So it's almost like the FedEx envelopes,
00:34 but they foil print it with metallic gold.
00:38 And then I also have this beautiful rainwear
00:41 in this tangerine orange,
00:43 and it's sort of a crinkled nylon.
00:45 So this collection was about confidence, sex appeal,
00:53 and using really soft fabrics that make people feel good.
00:56 And the foundation of my business is really tailoring,
00:59 so I really wanted to kind of expound upon that
01:01 with longer jackets and more fun and sexy silhouettes,
01:04 but really staying true to the foundation of BMC,
01:07 which is tailoring.
01:08 I think there's a multitude of inspiration
01:10 within this collection.
01:11 A lot of the '70s nightlife, dancing,
01:13 I go out to really cool spots,
01:15 so I think about how I would feel
01:16 when I walk into the space and creating characters.
01:19 I'm using a lot of silk.
01:21 I really love silk, it's soft.
01:22 A lot of the suiting that I have here
01:24 are wool silk suits.
01:25 This first one here is a full satin suit.
01:28 And the jacket, the actual jacket, is a wool silk.
01:32 The lapels are satin.
01:33 - It's an annual collection,
01:37 and it's all about trypophobia,
01:39 and it's focusing on my fear,
01:40 looking at the cluster of circles,
01:43 especially irregular circles and holes, especially.
01:47 And it's all about confronting them boldly.
01:50 And when you look at the silhouettes,
01:53 I use a lot of plastic forms
01:55 and also cut out of circular forms.
01:57 And when you see all the details,
02:00 it has some knots and also tied up,
02:02 like T-shirt or that sweatshirt,
02:05 and crochet rounds,
02:06 and also a lot of metallic chains hanging over it.
02:10 Probably the last look.
02:11 That's my finale look.
02:13 I love that headpiece.
02:14 - We do men's clothes,
02:24 and we want it to kind of stay true
02:26 to kind of the history of men's tailoring
02:29 in a space that feels more respectful to kind of us.
02:34 Majority of things are gonna be silk and wool.
02:36 Wool T-shirts, suiting T-shirts,
02:38 bringing really, really luxury fabrics
02:40 into things that feel more relaxed.
02:42 Our goal is always to get the gentleman
02:44 as dressed up as possible,
02:46 but also as comfortable as possible.
02:48 Also a lot of the textiles,
02:49 like the striping here, the beading,
02:52 all of that's done by hand.
02:53 I think that the look Baba here in blue is wearing
02:56 really encapsulates kind of all of the ideas
02:58 of this season the most.
02:59 I think personally, my favorite look is Keegan here.
03:03 Just from like a technical sewing side of things,
03:06 it was what I enjoyed the most doing.
03:08 - The collection was inspired by a young man from Brazil
03:17 who reached out to me saying that he loves the work
03:21 that I'm doing,
03:22 but he could not wear it in Brazil
03:23 because even though it's a culturally open country,
03:26 tradition and religiously is very closed.
03:29 So I borrowed integrity of the military
03:32 and I created a look that would work for a man
03:35 and I tested it on myself.
03:36 And then I also borrowed integrity of hockey jerseys.
03:39 So I'm assimilating a new look
03:41 with things that we're familiar with
03:43 in the menswear with a free skirt.
03:45 Well, all the fabrics come from Italy.
03:47 I sourced all the fabrics in Italy.
03:49 As you can see,
03:50 they're all military inspired on these sides.
03:52 These are all my couture pieces.
03:54 They're all one of a kind.
03:55 (upbeat music)
03:58 [BLANK_AUDIO]