МК Основы Колористики ч1 Н.Найда
Transcript
00:00 Coloristics is a very important topic for us
00:07 It's the first course I did after I removed the learning of landscape artists from my life
00:14 What is it connected with?
00:16 Not with the fact that I'm not going to teach the students anymore
00:20 But with the fact that I've accumulated so much knowledge that it turns a lesson from scratch into an endless process
00:32 You've noticed that our knowledge is all layered
00:36 When you start working, you see the picture in one light
00:40 If you look at it in 2-3 years, you'll see the little things you haven't seen before
00:45 The more we work, the more we notice
00:49 The last time I taught a group from scratch, I realized that it's difficult for me and for them
00:56 I see more and I want to give a lot at once
01:02 A person is not able to digest it and learn it at once
01:06 So I divided the course into 12 classes on coloristics, 12 classes on technology
01:13 And a special course on interior works
01:16 You're the first group that follows this program
01:20 The goals I set before the course
01:23 First, we'll talk about all the nuances that coloristics has
01:30 We'll go through all the classes, all the options, what it means
01:35 We'll talk about the fact that we can emphasize dignity by color
01:40 We can decorate by color, we can hide by color
01:44 We can emphasize makeup, we can emphasize the colors that every woman has
01:50 And the makeup will be less noticeable, it will be brighter
01:54 We'll talk in detail about skin, about the selection of the foundation, about the nuances of correction, about the nuances of color choice
02:02 And every day it will be a new layer
02:06 And all this will be related only to the conversion
02:10 I'll touch on the photo, light, and so on, but the main goal is the commercial makeup
02:16 This is what we do every day
02:19 Two theories classes, the first of which is related to the fact that before we change something, decorate or add
02:27 We should know the basis, what is what
02:31 I'll rely on your knowledge first and add my conclusions
02:38 I don't claim to be an author, I just see it this way and I think it's not so easy to learn today
02:45 You all have different versions of color circles
02:49 Let's start with why color is very important for makeup
02:54 Why?
02:56 There are three criteria, help, for assessing the appearance
03:00 Who did you learn it from?
03:02 Three criteria for assessing the appearance, which ones?
03:05 Linearity, relief, and color
03:09 What is linearity?
03:11 We consist of lines, our hair line, eyebrow line, cheekbones, lips, eyes, and so on
03:17 All this can be translated into a certain phenomenon called linearity
03:21 Our relief, we say that even if we have flawless skin, I will never see one color
03:29 I will always see the color in motion, in which one? From the darker to the lighter
03:37 We say that our face consists of certain relief pairs and the connection of shadows and light
03:44 And depending on which part I see the color, I will see it differently
03:50 Let's discuss these criteria in more detail, we will, of course, discuss and discuss in technique
03:56 But the criteria of color is the criteria from which we always start
04:00 Why? Because the first step, the first start is the contour
04:04 We choose the right shade of concealer, we choose the right shade of decorative shadow
04:11 We noticed that suddenly they applied something, it suited everyone
04:15 And on a certain person there was some kind of failure
04:18 In order to understand all this, you know, I think that in many schools we have coloristics
04:24 I can't say that someone teaches incorrectly
04:28 But I believe that very often it is in the study of coloristics that we go in the direction that, in fact, in practice, we do not need at all
04:39 Why? What nuances do we usually go into when we study coloristics?
04:45 What do we learn first of all? Mixing of colors, yes, or something else?
04:51 Yes, how to get a shade through dark, through light, yes
04:56 What else? Remember coloristics, how did you learn?
05:00 Usually they start talking about coloristics when they talk about the correction of some problems
05:08 We use color to correct problems
05:11 And as a rule, all our thoughts are basically that we either decorate and we learn to create different color combinations with you
05:23 Either we hide something, or we hide something, and so on
05:27 You all have basic education, right?
05:32 Please tell me, what question remains even when you have passed a very strong base?
05:39 What question do you start practicing? What question will always be?
05:43 What to pick up?
05:46 What color to pick up, yes? We talk, talk, talk about coloristics, we can do a lot of difficult things
05:52 And the simplest question we still have is how to pick up, here is a shrimp, yes?
05:57 How to pick up exactly today's color?
06:01 And I want to say that 90% of people come with this question who come to improve their qualifications
06:08 Yes, not just like that, I said that the more we work, the more we begin to notice nuances
06:14 And what suits us right away, we will hardly be satisfied in our work, yes, after a certain time
06:22 And in order to learn to deal with this, you need to know the nuances
06:26 We consist of color, it is undisputed, yes, where do we find color?
06:31 Our skin, eyes, hair, pigment, lips, teeth, and so on, yes, plus a person dresses
06:42 Yes, we always have a color of clothes, that is, we are completely surrounded by different colors
06:48 And not just like that, yes, we say that this color suits you, yes, oh, you dyed your hair, what a beautiful color of hair, it suits you
06:56 Here, what I would set the goals of this course is the question of what is a suitable color, yes, what does it do, what function does it carry, and so on
07:06 We will first very briefly recall with you those knowledge that is usually given in basic coloristics, those knowledge that artists mainly use
07:17 From the point of view of artists, there are two color models, yes, the first model is achromatic
07:25 Let it be the first, what is it?
07:27 The absence of colors
07:29 Well, A, yes, the absence of colors, colorless colors, the movement from white to black, yes
07:34 Usually in what form is the scheme of achromatic colors depicted? In the form of what?
07:41 Axes
07:42 Axes, yes, and not just like that, they say, achromatic axis
07:46 How do you think, why? Why is the system of achromatic colors an axis?
07:53 Because they have no oscillations in the direction, they have such an oscillation from black to white
08:00 Absolutely right, there is one movement
08:02 They have no other parameters, they can not be cold, warm, there is some other
08:07 Few characteristics
08:08 Yes, it has only the darkest and the strongest
08:11 Therefore, there is a clear border, yes, that is, we will even say, let it be an axis, but this is more from the point of view of mathematics, probably, a segment, yes
08:18 Because there is a starting point, an end point, and in the middle, the movement, due to the fact that these colors are mixed together
08:26 What is interesting, if you try to draw such an axis and put your finger, close your eyes, put your finger, yes
08:33 Opened, looked, what will be the color on the axis?
08:36 Gray
08:37 Closed, again, again put your finger, again got gray, yes
08:42 And whatever point of the axis you put your finger, it will always be the same color
08:47 It will come from what? From black and white
08:51 And how will they differ from each other?
08:53 Light and dark
08:54 Only light and dark, yes
08:56 It is wrong to consider that this is a simple system, because in fact, as if we will use a lot of this system of assessment, light and dark, when we will talk to you further about the shades
09:09 The second system of color formation is chromatic circle or chromatic spectrum
09:16 Just the model that you have in front of you today, everyone
09:20 What do you think, here those who have already been a little bit at my class, a little bit, to be silent, let's try to answer those who have just come
09:28 Why spectrum, why circle?
09:31 Why there was an axis, and here is a spectrum, a circle?
09:35 There is a circle, but there is no spectrum
09:39 No, why?
09:41 There is a source of light
09:43 Why exactly a circle? What is the symbol of a circle?
09:46 Mixing of three main colors
09:49 This is you, the investigation, you tell, and initially, why a circle? Because it is infinity
09:54 And although conditionally, look, in the spectrum, they highlight three main colors or primary
09:59 Highlight secondary colors by mixing three more, and then, well, as if triplet, and so on
10:07 And never show completely all shades, why?
10:11 Because they are an infinite number
10:13 Of course, here is a sign of infinity, they are impossible to show
10:16 That is, you can never say how many shades in total can be obtained by mixing of chromatic colors
10:23 It will depend on how many colors you mix, and on what proportion you beat
10:31 This is also very, very, very important for us
10:34 At the basis of the chromatic circle there are three primary colors
10:38 Why three primary?
10:40 Because when mixing, it turns out ...
10:43 This is an investigation, why three?
10:45 It is impossible to get them by other means
10:47 Absolutely right, they can not be obtained by other means
10:50 That is, it is impossible to calculate how to get yellow
10:53 It is impossible to calculate how to get blue or how to get red
10:57 These colors are present in pure form, so they start
11:01 If I will mix them in different order, I will get the next semicircle, the next circle, then the next, and so on
11:09 There are rules that we use
11:13 I will explain very quickly, because this is not the point that I can pay much attention to
11:21 Not because it is not important, because all this is described a lot, we know
11:25 And this is the art of color, there is a lot of literature that can be read about the characteristics of color formation, and so on
11:33 But nevertheless, there are basic rules that were developed for artists
11:38 And make-up artists also use them
11:41 Not always right, not always giving yourself a report
11:46 More because we do not see, but we believe
11:48 Of course, as we said, how to understand in general
11:52 How to understand, did you really remove the problem?
11:55 As we said, what should you ask yourself?
11:59 Do you see this problem and believe?
12:01 Yes, do you see that you removed it?
12:03 Or do you just believe in yourself, that you applied and you removed it?
12:06 And just these things are due to the fact that we accept a lot of things to faith
12:12 That is, we were told the rules of the color spectrum, I overestimated myself
12:17 And we know that all colors, all shades can be divided into two groups
12:24 What?
12:25 Red and relative
12:31 What is a relative?
12:33 They are located near the color spectrum
12:36 Yes, they are located near the color spectrum
12:39 What is their characteristic? Why are they relative?
12:42 The word "family" and "relative"
12:44 In the composition of the whole line of colors, the same color dominates
12:51 The second group of colors is complementary or contrasting, remember
12:55 These are opposite in the spectrum, and in their composition they have no common pigment
13:06 That is, the first group is related through one color, the second group is complementary or contrasting
13:12 They have no common color in their composition
13:15 Based on this observation, several rules have been drawn
13:21 Which ones, remember?
13:23 Contrasting colors
13:25 When mixed, they neutralize, and when put next to each other, they light up each other
13:31 Each color is enhanced
13:33 One color is enhanced, and another is enhanced
13:36 Absolutely right, two halves of the rule
13:39 The first is neutralization, and the second is enhancement
13:42 When is neutralization?
13:44 When one color overlaps with another
13:47 Who knows why complementary colors neutralize each other?
13:51 Because it doesn't work out gray in gray
13:54 No, gray doesn't work out gray in chromatic axis
13:58 Let's figure it out, look at your circles
14:02 And name a color that is very popular, that is very popular among makeup artists
14:08 Especially in nude, natural, and so on, which is not in the spectrum
14:13 There is not a single shade of brown color
14:18 What do you think, why?
14:21 It's the most difficult color that is formed by mixing all the complementary colors
14:29 Imagine, we draw with paints, and we have all the colors of the spectrum
14:34 We took a brush, soaked it, painted it, washed the brush in a jar
14:39 Then we took the second, took the third, we take sequentially
14:43 And we get to take an even color of each color
14:46 If you take an even color of each color and wash the brush all the time
14:51 When you look in the jar, what do you see?
14:54 What is it like?
14:56 Dirty
14:59 We have reached the term that is often used by makeup artists
15:02 She has a dirty combination of colors
15:06 Or she has no color purity
15:09 This happens when you haven't calculated a little
15:12 And the colors in the combination have come into contact with each other
15:16 Contrast or complementary colors, the color of the water in the jar
15:19 Imagine that you did the same, but took red twice as much as the rest
15:25 What will you see then?
15:28 Red-brown
15:31 And if instead of red you take more green?
15:34 Olive
15:37 Olive color, yes? Well, such a greenish-brown, right?
15:40 Further, the condition of neutral brown color
15:43 This is a mixture of all shades in equal proportions
15:47 But if at least some shade is taken at least a little more
15:52 Then you immediately begin to see a completely different picture
15:56 We often work with brown
15:59 And you probably noticed that you are confident in it
16:02 The fact is that these nuances of composition, what shade is more
16:06 Our eye does not always see at once
16:09 I take a shade that I am 100% sure of
16:12 It always suited me
16:15 I start to blend and when I blend, I see
16:18 The red color went
16:20 What do you think, when can this happen?
16:23 In the composition of this ...
16:26 First, in the composition of the shadow that I work with
16:29 There was no proportion, there was a little more red
16:33 And in her skin, red was also present
16:37 I was interested in what happened, my drawing was absolutely correct
16:40 The percentage increased and we saw a completely different picture
16:44 Where do we often see this?
16:47 When what do we do?
16:50 The very first modeling of the face
16:53 Probably the army of make-up artists fights in search of the perfect corrector for the cheekbones
16:59 Why? On some he is read yellow, on some orange, on some red
17:05 And only sometimes we give each other all the numbers
17:09 I found a gorgeous corrector, why is he gorgeous?
17:12 And he lies on everyone the same
17:16 We will also talk about this today
17:18 So, let's think about why the process of neutralization is taking place
17:22 And what is the process of neutralization in principle?
17:25 If you look at the primary colors
17:28 And imagine that I mix together yellow, blue, red
17:33 I will also get this neutral dirty color
17:36 Look, the first color, suppose, we take a contrasting pair
17:41 Purple and what shade lies opposite?
17:44 Yellow
17:46 Why do you think in this case, too, will be a neutral color?
17:51 Purple, yellow
17:53 Because purple is a red color
17:55 Absolutely right, because yellow is the primary color
17:59 And purple is a mixture of yellow and blue
18:03 Red and blue
18:05 Look, blue, green, red, orange
18:08 Blue, green, yellow, blue, red, orange, yellow and red
18:19 If you look, then in total you still get a mixture of three primary colors
18:25 Thus, contrasting colors, one of which is usually composed of two primary colors
18:34 And the other is either pure or they are traced through the same pigment
18:40 What is interesting is that the process of neutralization is usually used only by make-up artists
18:45 Artists do not use this process
18:48 Why?
18:50 When do we use neutralization?
18:52 Eyebrows, redness, freckles, pigmentation
18:57 We put a contrasting color on the skin and get a neutral color
19:04 Can you imagine if the artist put a red stain on the face, on the paper
19:11 And to remove it, put a green stain on top, the same shape
19:15 Can you?
19:17 Yes
19:18 Will the artist get the result?
19:20 No
19:21 Why?
19:23 Because he has a white shirt, and we have a white one
19:27 We came to the point of the hook, which allows us to say that despite the fact that we are artists
19:36 Despite the fact that we have a lot in common with artists
19:40 We have different foundations, we have different color conditions
19:45 And the rules that work for the artist without a form, cannot work for the make-up artist
19:51 Do you agree with me?
19:53 Yes
19:54 What is very important, what are we going to start with?
19:57 Let's look at our tools, at the ones we usually work with
20:04 And let's try, someone has already played with me on this
20:08 Therefore, first of all, those who are just starting, I will answer you
20:12 We will try to compare colors and observe our usual products that we use
20:19 We will observe everything on our usual shadows
20:22 I put the color, and you try to tell me everything you can tell about the color
20:29 I just work with our shadows
20:32 Color
20:34 Are you confused?
20:39 What is it called?
20:43 Red
20:45 We will give you the name of the product
20:48 This is red, right?
20:53 What can you tell about it? What?
20:56 What?
20:58 Cold
21:01 Cold, it seems, yes
21:03 Slightly darkened
21:05 Slightly darkened, it seems
21:07 Temperature
21:09 Temperature
21:11 Clear, unclear?
21:13 Not very clear
21:15 It is unclear yet
21:17 It is bright
21:19 Bright
21:21 Pigment is saturated, but you can't say that it is bright
21:26 Remember your answers
21:29 And I will put another color next to it
21:32 I will put another, but you answer about this color
21:38 Now tell
21:40 Brighter
21:42 What?
21:44 Warmer, brighter
21:46 Lighter
21:48 What about the temperature?
21:50 Warmer
21:52 What color did I put?
21:54 Darkening
21:56 Also red
21:58 Remember, everything you said at the beginning
22:01 As soon as I added another color, your answers began to change
22:06 Let's see again
22:08 I put the same color, but different replicas
22:12 Don't look up
22:14 Color
22:21 Orange
22:23 Yellow and red
22:25 Temperature
22:27 Warm
22:29 Brightness
22:31 Bright enough
22:33 We can tell everything
22:35 Those who have already been to this class said
22:39 Of course, they already understand what I will put next
22:42 Tell about the first one again
22:48 Which one?
22:50 Orange with a large amount of yellow
22:52 Yes, it remained orange, but I see another composition
22:57 Here it became more yellow
23:00 Temperature
23:02 Has it changed?
23:04 More white
23:06 More white or more gray?
23:08 It's a question for you
23:10 More gray
23:12 Look, it's like it's above
23:14 It was so bright, juicy
23:16 What happened to it initially?
23:18 It's like it's dimmed
23:20 Further
23:22 I don't see a strong change in temperature yet
23:25 The first blow went to brightness and saturation
23:29 We continue to observe them
23:32 I put another color there
23:35 Look, they are very similar
23:37 Very, very similar
23:39 But when you start to compare them, you see the difference
23:43 Tell about the same one
23:45 Did it remain orange?
23:47 Yes, it remained
23:49 It became clearer
23:51 It became clearer, right?
23:53 What does it mean "cleaner"?
23:55 We said what dirt is before
23:57 Less gray
23:59 Less gray in composition, absolutely right
24:01 It's like it was washed
24:03 What about its temperature?
24:05 Visually, a little bit
24:07 It became warmer
24:09 A little bit
24:11 In saturation?
24:13 More saturated or less saturated?
24:15 More saturated
24:17 More saturated, right?
24:19 Let's continue
24:21 I really like to show it on this group
24:25 It's more...
24:27 It's more...
24:29 It's more...
24:31 It's more...
24:33 It's more...
24:35 Look, what's with it now?
24:37 It remained orange, but its composition became more...
24:39 It became more red
24:41 It became more red
24:43 What is its purity?
24:45 It became dirty
24:47 It became dirty
24:49 And we just said that it's clean
24:51 Why did the relationship change?
24:53 Because the color next to it is more...
24:55 More white
24:57 Less gray
24:59 Not more white, but more gray
25:01 Less gray
25:03 Temperature
25:05 What's with this color in temperature?
25:07 It became colder
25:09 Look, did it ever occur to you
25:11 to say that orange color
25:13 can have a cold temperature?
25:15 No
25:17 Girls, you have a very big sign in your head
25:19 We are talking about
25:21 that a make-up artist can never
25:23 say without any appellation
25:25 that I have
25:27 all warm colors in my case
25:29 Or just to say abstractly
25:31 I will make a warm makeup
25:33 I will make a warm makeup
25:35 How can I say it?
25:37 I will make a warm makeup
25:39 for you
25:41 What's the difference?
25:43 Relationship
25:45 Relationship
25:47 We just observed the relationship
25:49 We don't work with you
25:51 It's really stupid to think
25:53 that a woman comes to us and pays for make-up
25:55 and I make a color scheme
25:57 like in the spectrum. Everyone agrees
25:59 We usually work with not pure colors
26:01 We work with...
26:03 With shades
26:05 Why?
26:07 We will explain it later
26:09 We work with shades
26:11 And when we work with shades
26:13 you should understand it clearly
26:15 A shade is a mixture of several colors
26:17 I can't say
26:19 that I have all warm shades
26:21 Why? Or shades
26:23 or a base
26:25 Because a woman can come to me
26:27 in a composition of a skin pigment
26:29 whose colors are even warmer
26:31 How will my shades look?
26:33 Cold?
26:35 Will I get the picture I wanted?
26:37 No, I won't
26:39 We have everything in relation
26:41 Let's write down the characteristics of shades
26:43 It's very important
26:45 The characteristics of shades
26:47 The first characteristic
26:49 is the one
26:51 that remained unchanged
26:53 in all your questions
26:55 It is the only one
26:57 that is considered stable
26:59 What is this characteristic?
27:01 It is a characteristic
27:03 that is stable
27:05 What is this characteristic?
27:07 It changed
27:09 I can't argue with you
27:11 There will be different places
27:13 The name
27:15 The only thing
27:17 that remained the same
27:19 as it was
27:21 I want to tell you
27:23 that a whole army of artists
27:25 would argue with me
27:27 who will give their names
27:29 for each shade
27:31 that I have given you
27:33 What is the name?
27:35 For a make-up artist
27:37 it is important
27:39 how this color is called
27:41 It is important for a make-up artist
27:43 to know whether it is a sky blue
27:45 or a wet color
27:47 How important is it
27:49 for a make-up artist
27:51 to know the name?
27:53 100%
27:55 To surprise the client
27:57 we want to surprise the blog
27:59 The more we know,
28:01 the more we will surprise the client
28:03 What is important for a make-up artist?
28:05 The name is not important
28:07 but it is important for me
28:09 to understand what is included
28:11 in the composition
28:13 The composition of the shade
28:15 The composition of the shade
28:17 What is the composition?
28:19 What shade is included
28:21 in the composition of the color
28:23 and preferably
28:25 in what proportion
28:27 or at least
28:29 in what shade
28:31 is the main composition
28:33 If the name
28:35 is unchanged
28:37 then what concerns the composition
28:39 is the first thing
28:41 that you started to call
28:43 at once
28:45 You told me
28:47 that it is just orange
28:49 when we see nothing
28:51 What does it mean?
28:53 Yellow and red are mixed
28:55 approximately in an equal proportion
28:57 In some shades
28:59 we see more yellow
29:01 and in some more red
29:03 and everything would be fine
29:05 if we did not talk about
29:07 the same color
29:09 Starting from the composition
29:11 we say that
29:13 all other characteristics
29:15 are only comparative
29:17 We can not say
29:19 that the color is stable
29:21 Only comparative
29:23 It is important for the artist
29:25 if he makes a color combination
29:27 He chooses one shade
29:29 relative to another
29:31 and makes a harmony
29:33 And for a makeup artist
29:35 it is 300 times more difficult
29:37 I choose a color of the eyes,
29:39 a color of the rainbow
29:41 I can not fight
29:43 with the yellow teeth
29:45 I can remove some problem
29:47 If I clearly understand
29:49 that what I do
29:51 is compared to those shades
29:53 of my skin
29:55 at this moment
29:57 it is fine
29:59 The composition is
30:01 preferably percentage
30:03 and it is compared
30:05 to the color you choose
30:07 Let's see
30:09 A simple test
30:11 There is yellow in the shade of my skin
30:13 Look
30:15 Is this shade suitable for me?
30:17 What is it relative to my skin?
30:19 Very bright
30:21 How does my skin look?
30:23 More gray
30:25 Look
30:27 And this color?
30:29 You answer about the skin
30:31 And this color
30:33 is better for my skin?
30:35 A little better
30:37 We do not choose makeup
30:39 in such colors
30:41 But the skin looks better
30:43 The skin looks better
30:45 because the color is more
30:47 dimmed
30:49 All shades
30:51 that we will work with you
30:53 We will compare
30:55 the models that came to us
30:57 This is very important
30:59 Next
31:01 The third feature
31:03 Let's say that we are very competent specialists
31:05 The feature that I call
31:07 is not a feature of color
31:09 This is the temperature
31:11 This is the third feature
31:13 It is comparative
31:15 Please
31:17 Any very educated person
31:19 who understands
31:21 who is really fond of color
31:23 can make a comment
31:25 that you will say
31:27 that the color has a temperature
31:29 The color has a temperature.