COLOR HOW-TO Surface Painting with L'Oréal Professionnel artist Brooke Evans
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00:00 Hi, how's everyone doing?
00:04 I'm with Iza Interwebs.
00:06 Thank you so much for tuning in.
00:08 My name is Brooke Evans and I am a L'Oreal Professionnel National Color and Balayage Artist.
00:13 We're here tonight to share some cool techniques that I'm into.
00:17 And we're going to start off with our friend Lexi here.
00:21 Lexi has my favorite hair color right now.
00:26 We're seeing a lot of yellow happening in trend formulation right now.
00:31 And so I'm so excited that we were able to sneak the brand new L'Oreal Professionnel Colorful Hair Yellow to play with her hair today.
00:41 We ended up retouching her new growth with a Majorelle 6.46, which is a copper red with half 5.3.
00:53 I wanted to soften our copper red just a little bit to keep it really soft and poppy all at the same time.
01:02 Then we went through and we took our sections that we're going to showcase live with Abby.
01:10 But we took our sections and did a technique that I like to call air painting.
01:15 Air painting is a surface painting technique that I developed from being certified in balayage through L'Oreal Professionnel.
01:23 Once I was certified in balayage with L'Oreal Professionnel, I was able to really break out of the boundaries with painting hair.
01:30 And really go a little bit more in depth with my creativity on how I was painting hair.
01:37 So once we got her air painting into the hair, we used L'Oreal Professionnel's Freehand Techniques Powder with 40 volume and of course Smart Bond.
01:46 Because you can't do any lighting without Smart Bond.
01:49 We let that process for about 20 minutes and we took it down, did our step two.
01:56 And then we used the brand new L'Oreal Professionnel Colorful Hair in the new color that's coming soon, yellow.
02:04 And we let that sit on for about five minutes, took it down and had a beautiful finish on her.
02:10 So I hope you guys like that.
02:11 We're going to kind of bring her back in throughout this so that we can answer any questions that you guys have for Lexi's hair color.
02:19 So thank you Lexi.
02:21 Alright, now I've got a very dear friend of mine who was kind enough to be my model today.
02:31 This is Abby Agada, she is what James wore makeup.
02:35 Abby and I actually just got finished teaching our final color program in the L'Oreal Professionnel Academy here in New York City.
02:45 We did color commitment today and yesterday.
02:48 We literally just finished our program and are now coming to you guys live.
02:53 You can find all of these classes on lpregister.com/academy where you will be seeing all of the 2018 schedule coming out with all of the educators, amazing educators that we have here.
03:06 So we're going to go ahead and take you through what Abby has.
03:10 Abby has already had her retouch done.
03:13 And Abby already puts L'Oreal's Colorful Hair on her hair.
03:22 So Abby is a Majorelle 420 at her base globally, and then she's had some previous highlights that come through.
03:34 The reason I wanted to use Abby for our model is because she's much more layered than Lexi is.
03:41 And what I want to showcase with this technique is that it doesn't matter who you're painting this on.
03:47 It really is applicable for everybody.
03:51 So with this technique, what you're doing is really placing lightness in the hair visually.
03:59 So when I take a look at Abby's hair, I first want to really find where her whorl is, where her hair parts naturally.
04:07 So that I'm going to paint those areas that when she doesn't style her hair so perfectly, that she'll still get some really nice lightness coming through.
04:18 I always start in the back of the head because I like to work forward with this particular technique.
04:25 Because Abby has a side part in her hair and lots of layers happening, I'm going to go ahead and part out a diagonal section at her parietal ridge and just get that hair out of the way.
04:46 Okay, now when we look at Abby's hair, we can see how she styles it.
04:52 We smoothed her out a little bit, just a little.
04:55 But she styles her hair with a nice beach wave in it.
05:01 So we wanted to make sure that we're painting the hair in the way that she styles it as well.
05:05 This technique is really fantastic for a very quick way to get a lot of dimension into the hair once your single process client decides that they need some movement back in the hair.
05:21 So you guys, I really want to invite you all to ask questions.
05:28 I'm here for you this evening and I want to make sure that you guys get all of the information that you're looking for.
05:34 Sometimes.
05:36 User Sarah is wondering what lightener and developer you're using for Abby.
05:41 Amazing. So thank you user Sarah for asking the question.
05:46 Today I'm using L'Oreal Professionnel's Multi-Techniques Powder and I'm actually using the 30 volume Blanc Studio developer with that.
05:57 So that's the developer that comes in the bag versus the Magique Creme.
06:02 I'm using the Blanc Studio because I want to have a really nice consistency for my paint.
06:10 OK.
06:12 So with this visual placement, I'm going to be taking really large sections for any of you out there that have gone through any of our balayage classes here at the Academy or who have gone through any balayage classes out in the field or in your salon.
06:30 You know that we take a little bit smaller of sections.
06:33 We are talking about using our planchette, our product consistency.
06:40 With this method, those things are all true, valid and true as well.
06:45 But we want to make sure that we are getting a lot of saturation towards the top.
06:53 User Jasmine is wondering how you make sure the top doesn't get warm and orange compared to the mids and ends.
07:02 Fantastic question. Thank you so much user Jasmine.
07:07 The question was how do you prevent the hair from getting too warm at the new growth when you're blending or melding any colors together.
07:17 So the best way to do that is with your saturation.
07:22 If you want a heavier saturation, you're going to be thicker with your application.
07:27 With Abby, I don't want it to be, I don't want Abby to be a blonde.
07:32 I'm trying to create dimension and movement within her hair so that she can get some really bright pops of her colorful hair coming through.
07:44 If you are doing this method or technique on a client that is a blonde, a brunette, a redhead,
07:53 you would just be focused on your saturation, making sure that you're nice and diffused in through the new growth area.
08:00 I do this method all the time with a global application on the head as well.
08:08 And so if you're doing that, you want to make sure that you're wiping a little bit of your global application off of the hair before you go in and paint the hair.
08:20 Thank you for that question.
08:24 OK, so I'm coming through and visually placing, making sure that where my hair is going to lay is going to flow really nicely with the rest of the layers that she has in her hair.
08:42 So we're really soft with our touch.
08:48 I'm not pushing my lightener through my section.
08:51 I'm making sure that my lightener is on the surface only.
08:55 So when we look underneath here, we don't have anything on the underneath side.
09:00 We're making sure that everything's nice and smooth.
09:06 There's no holes and there's nice diffusion coming in through the new growth.
09:12 Again, I'm not trying to make Abby a blonde by any means.
09:18 OK, and drop it down.
09:21 OK, so this is something, like I said, I love to do behind the chair for my monochromatic clients that I mean, sometimes people are like, I don't want any highlights in my hair.
09:35 And usually nine times out of 10, that's because they may have had a bad experience with highlights in their hair in the past.
09:41 So this is a really beautiful way that you can ease someone back into dimensional color and really modernizing their color, especially for the fall and winter.
09:51 We're getting into the fall, winter, into the winter months, rather.
09:55 We're past fall, I suppose, but we're getting into the winter months.
09:59 So a lot of times people are like, oh, why would I highlight my hair in the winter?
10:04 Well, duh, winter white.
10:06 I'm just kidding.
10:07 Anyhow, you would highlight the hair because you want to put dimension back into the hair.
10:12 We're doing it with Abby so that we can put colorful hair in her hair and the colorful hair with L'Oreal Professionnel is L'Oreal Professionnel's bright fashion color shades.
10:25 So we're going to make some really beautiful formulations for Abby's glaze once we are done with her processing.
10:37 Celina is wondering about lightener formula and if you're using a bond builder.
10:43 Fantastic. Thank you, Celina, so much for the question.
10:47 The question was, what lightener are we using and am I using a bond builder?
10:52 So the answer is I am using L'Oreal Professionnel's multi techniques powder with a 30 volume blonde studio developer.
11:03 The reason I'm using the blonde studio developer is because it's a thicker consistency and because I want to be able to get a nice coating of lightener on the hair.
11:16 I want it to be a little bit thicker because I want it to do its job and get the lightening on the hair.
11:22 My friend DJ always says, don't make a crumb coat.
11:26 Ice the cake. So instead of seeing hair coming through everything, I want that to be a nice thick icing.
11:33 And to answer the question, if I'm using a bond builder, I am using L'Oreal Professionnel's Smart Bond.
11:38 It's a beautiful product that is specifically made for L'Oreal Professionnel and works really well with our hair color and our lighteners.
11:47 What's beautiful about this product is you don't have to adjust your mixing ratio and you don't have to adjust your timing on it.
11:56 It's a two step product that I use in every single lightening service that I have because it's protecting the hair's integrity in such a beautiful way.
12:08 It's just adding to the protection that L'Oreal Professionnel offers in their hair care already.
12:15 So thank you for that question.
12:19 All right. So I'm moving to the weak side of Abby's part.
12:25 Coming through, if I see anything in there that I'm not in love with, just wipe it off.
12:30 I'm not going to stress out about it. OK, so we parted out on the opposite side because she has a pretty heavy part.
12:39 And I want to make sure that I'm getting all of her hair painted in the appropriate way.
12:46 She has a heavy part and she has a lot more layering in her hair than Lexi did.
12:52 So we wanted to make sure that we didn't just have the top layer of her hair highlighted, which would accentuate the layering rather than enhance the layering.
13:03 It would accentuate the layering in a way that it would make it look almost like a bi-level.
13:09 Have any of you ever seen that? Because it's not cute.
13:12 So we're making sure that we're nice and diffused at the new growth.
13:19 Again, I'm not trying to make Abby a blonde. I'm trying to give her a really beautiful dimension.
13:26 Every time I've done this on a client and I've done it quite a bit, it freaks them out.
13:33 They often ask me if I am painting stripes in their hair.
13:38 So I giggle and I say, "No, I would never paint stripes in your hair."
13:44 And after we get them rinsed out, they fall in love.
13:47 This is such a seamless way to put highlights into the hair and it's super, super quick.
13:55 We are in full-on holiday season. At least I am.
14:01 Abby, are you in full-on holiday season?
14:03 Yes.
14:04 So, time is money, right? So we want to make sure that we're utilizing our time really well behind the chair
14:12 when we're panicking because our next client is there.
14:15 This is a really great technique to utilize for that client that is ready to put more dimension into their hair
14:25 and you're freaking out because your next client is already there.
14:32 Melissa is saying that every time she paints hair, she can't get past orange.
14:37 How do you make sure that that doesn't happen for a look like this?
14:41 That is a fantastic question, Melissa. Thank you.
14:46 The question was, "Every time I paint hair, I get to orange and I can't get past it."
14:52 I am sure you are not alone in that feeling. So, absolutely. Thank you so much for that.
14:59 The best way to get past orange is going to be with your product consistency as well as your icing.
15:08 So, what we talked about earlier about not being able to see any of the hair in between.
15:13 If you really get in here and see this strand of hair, up in here is what we call a dry application.
15:20 This is going to be softer and more diffused and this is going to be the area that would probably be your orange area.
15:27 You can see some of the hair coming through there and as we move down the hair shaft,
15:33 you can see that that consistency is much, much, much thicker than it is up towards the top.
15:39 Oftentimes, when I am teaching our balayage certification classes here at the Academy
15:45 or if I am teaching balayage classes in the field, that is the number one question that we get.
15:51 How can I get past the orange? And then when I start painting, I often get the, "Oh, wow.
15:59 You are using a lot of product on the hair." And that is exactly it.
16:04 You have to use the appropriate amount of product on the hair.
16:07 You have to be really consistent with your stroke and the pressure of your stroke on the hair
16:13 in order to get the lightness that you are looking for.
16:17 Thank you so much for that question.
16:20 Alright, so we have got our plastic wrap hanging out here.
16:27 I am using the plastic wrap for a little bit of a barrier more so than I am to make it super light.
16:37 I am keeping things separated and keeping it from drying out.
16:42 So when I am coming through the top section of Abby's hair, I like to map out my work
16:49 and really take a look at where that hair is going to live before I start painting it.
16:54 So it is really great when your clients come in and they have their hair styled the way that they wear it
17:01 most of the time because you are really able to see exactly where that hair is going to live.
17:08 So you can see if I have already looked at this, I can see where I need to put my lightness
17:14 because this is a visual placement.
17:17 If I put a piece right here, it is going to lay right in between these previous pieces
17:22 and meld out really perfectly.
17:24 If I paint here, it is in between these two pieces.
17:27 And then of course in the front of the head, we want to make sure that we are getting a little bit of a pop
17:32 and a power piece coming through the front as well.
17:34 So I am going to start in the back.
17:39 I am slightly over directing the hair back, really smoothing the hair out.
17:47 Starting in the mid shaft, just like you would with a foil,
17:52 because I don't want to have too much product in at the root.
17:55 I really want it to be soft and diffused.
18:00 In at the new growth and then get some ribbons of color coming through the mid shaft into the ends.
18:07 I don't want to saturate the ends on this because this is a surface only paint.
18:12 A surface only is really a beautiful way to paint hair.
18:16 If you are not looking for the really kind of sun kissed or traditional balayage look,
18:23 or if you are not looking for, if I were painting large pieces like this and saturating the ends,
18:28 I would be getting more of an ombre or a sombre type of look.
18:33 If you are just painting the surface of the hair, it is a light reflection.
18:37 So we are just painting the surface and this is also a really great way if someone already is light on the ends
18:44 and they want to diffuse the rest of their hair.
18:50 So we are working our way, I am slightly over directing back, so that I am, because I have such a large section here,
18:58 if I were to paint the hair here, I would be painting just the surface here.
19:03 If I pull the hair slightly over directed backwards, I am going to get more surface on the interior of the hair.
19:13 Again, we are not trying to make Abby a blonde.
19:18 We are trying to give her movement and dimension.
19:22 [Video playing]
19:31 I love it. Siobhan and William, thank you so much. I absolutely will show you the underneath.
19:40 Because I am taking such a large section here, it would be pretty difficult for me to push this product through the underneath.
19:49 But let's do a little preview first, before I get to the ends, and then we will do another one once I get to the ends.
19:56 So nice and diffused, light stroke.
20:07 Here we go, all the way down to the underneath.
20:17 Okay, so all the way down to those ends there.
20:22 But not saturating the ends. We don't want to, especially on a lot of layers,
20:29 and Abby and Lexi probably have more hair than people need. I don't know. They have a lot of hair.
20:39 So if you have a ton of hair and the hair is super layered, I am not worried about all of these little hairs that are popping up in through here.
20:52 I am going to take this section as one, because again, we are just painting the surface of it.
20:57 If I were to place a paddle, a planchette, whatever you want to call it, underneath here,
21:02 that's when that would create the problem with much more layering happening in the hair.
21:12 >> Randa was wondering if you would mind repeating Abby's base color.
21:16 >> Absolutely. Abby's base color is so beautiful. Thank you, Randa, for asking a question.
21:22 Her base color is Majorelle 420 and 20 volume Maji Creme developer.
21:31 Majorelle is a beautiful permanent hair color that I love and use very, very often.
21:39 And the 420, Abby, ever since I've known you, Abby, you've been some form of violet.
21:46 So we've been playing with different formulations, and every time something goes away, we collaborate and come up with a new formulation.
21:57 Sometimes she's a model. Sometimes she just comes up with new formulations for colorful hair.
22:07 And this girl is pretty amazing, so it's fun to collaborate with her.
22:15 Okay. So we're working our way the rest of the way down the hair.
22:20 And now here's the magical piece, the front piece of her hair.
22:23 Now, Abby has a slight fringe. Are you growing your fringe out?
22:27 >> No.
22:28 >> Okay. So she likes to have her sides swept fringe.
22:34 And so I don't want to accentuate this too much, but I do want to make sure that I am over-directing the hair back.
22:40 So oftentimes what I'll do is I'll place a piece of plastic wrap, say that five times, on the previous section so that I can over-direct the hair really far back on this particular section.
23:02 The reason I'm over-directing the hair is because I don't want to have a nice chunk in through the top here.
23:15 I want it to ribbon along with the rest of her hair.
23:20 So I'm painting almost the inside of the hair.
23:23 Sorry, my love. I'm just going to grab this, and then we'll be good.
23:27 All right.
23:29 >> Stephanie is wondering how many levels you're going to lift.
23:32 >> I'm only looking to lift Abby about two to three levels.
23:38 Nothing crazy, because what is violet made of?
23:41 Violet is made of red and blue, right?
23:44 So if Abby is a level four, she's got a little bit of dimension in her hair already.
23:51 I want to lift her a few levels past where I'm trying to get her to go.
23:56 So I want to have a violet that pops on her hair at a level seven so that you can see some soft dimension coming through her hair, but not at a level ten.
24:10 So I'm trying to lift her hair to a seven, like a six-seven.
24:17 And at a six-seven, our underlying pigment is going to be red and orange.
24:22 So that's going to be a really good base for me to put a nice purple on top of that and have longevity.
24:30 So we'll probably go through and do a double-dip glaze on her.
24:36 And a double-dip glaze is something where we're going to utilize either L'Oreal Professionnel's demi-permanent hair color or maybe possibly a Noah or one of their permanent hair colors, like Majorelle, as well.
24:52 And then we finish it off with either L'Oreal's Colorful Hair or we finish it off with Adia Light, which is L'Oreal Professionnel's acid-based color line that is my finishing product 90% of the time.
25:08 So we're going to let Abby process, and we are going to be posting her after picture later in this feed as well.
25:20 So stay tuned for Abby, and I'm going to bring Lexi back up so that we can go back through Lexi's formulation and answer any questions that we have about Lexi as well.
25:31 Thank you, Abby.
25:33 Okay. Lexi, come hither.
25:38 So here's Lexi again.
25:41 Lexi is my marigold goddess.
25:44 And Lexi actually came in with, I would say, about an inch and a half to two inches of new growth on her hair.
25:53 So we had a pretty substantial root that was happening.
25:56 Her midshaft right in through the center here had a really lovely band of previous color that had faded out through the hair.
26:08 So we went through her hair with Majorelle 20 Volume Maji Prime Developer, half 5.3 and half 6.46.
26:20 5.3 is our five with gold, and our 6.46 is a six copper red.
26:29 So it gave us this really beautiful, just soft, auburn, beautiful copper.
26:39 Then I went through and hit the band with L'Oreal Professionnel's Sunkissed Lightning Oil, which is a really unique lightener in the sense that it's an oil, ammonia-free lightener.
26:50 It's really great for shifting a little bit of a band out of the hair without blowing the hair out with a bulldozer of a lightener.
26:59 I use it all the time behind the chair, and I use it all the time for banding.
27:03 So we let that process for 35 minutes, took it down, and then we dried it and went through and did our same painting technique.
27:12 So all those really large pieces that we painted onto Abby, you can see how diffused and soft it's created.
27:21 Her ends were really, really light already, so I did not lighten these ends.
27:26 These ends were already lightened when Lexi came in today.
27:30 So we took similar sections coming through.
27:34 You can see how I over-directed that hair back to create that lightness popping around the face.
27:41 Came through, and instead of parting Lexi out at her parietal ridge, she doesn't have a hard part.
27:49 I came through, and if I needed to paint in the center, I painted a diamond section through the center of the hair if it was needed.
27:58 Again, this is a visual placement on the hair.
28:02 So we took these large sections in through here, coming completely off of her part and working with her hair's natural whirl.
28:16 Even though we have this beautiful blowout on her, I want to make sure that no matter if she wakes up and needs to run to the store,
28:25 or she doesn't feel like doing her hair that day, that no matter what, her hair is going to look fresh and look purposeful.
28:34 So this was our last section.
28:36 Again, I over-directed that hair back off of the face, and when it lays down, you can see that it frames her face really beautifully.
28:47 We finished her hair with a new product from Colorful Hair.
28:52 It is the yellow. We have a yellow and a red coming soon.
28:56 I was just really excited that I was able to utilize the yellow with my current obsession with marigold.
29:03 So I want to thank you all so much for tuning in this evening.
29:07 You can find and follow me on Instagram @brookiemay, B-R-O-O-K-I-E-N-E-Y.
29:16 And you can also find me in all of my classes here at the Academy for 2018 at lpregister.com/academy.
29:25 Thanks for tuning in, guys.
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