How to cut a Creative Bob Haircut step by step 2023
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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Hi everyone, this is Sally Rogerson for SR Education and I just want to say hi and thank
00:13 you so much if you're joining us live here on Salon Services Facebook page. So if you're
00:22 watching this afterwards, then welcome. It's great to be here this evening. And what I
00:31 wanted to do was really share with you some of the SR Education techniques. We do have
00:37 some classes coming up in Salon Services in both the Phoenix location and also in Seattle.
00:46 So I know I've met a lot of you through Salon Services over the years and it's going to
00:53 be great to return and work again in Seattle. Also recently I have actually moved to Scottsdale,
01:03 Arizona. So a big move for us for SR Education and we are going to be starting to do classes.
01:12 We have some coming up in January. So if you are interested in viewing our dates, etc,
01:24 you can look at Salon Services website. I wanted to share with you this evening just
01:29 a little taster of the kind of stuff that we do in class. So again, this is Sally Rogerson
01:36 for SR Education and we're just going to cut some hair tonight. If you have any questions,
01:42 then definitely post them. If we possibly can, we will get to them. If we don't, then
01:48 I apologize and we will try and get to them afterwards. So once again, this is Sally Rogerson
01:57 here for SR Education and we are live on Salon Services website. I wanted to just kind of
02:08 show you a little bit about what we do as a company and SR Education is all about trying
02:16 to support salon stylists. So I absolutely love to do more commercial work and I would
02:25 just wanted to share with you tonight, you know, a little bit of the kind of stuff that
02:30 you would imagine doing if you came and attended one of our classes. So what I've done is I
02:38 actually section off this top area just in a horseshoe. The main reason that I section
02:46 off the top area is really just to get that hair out of the way. Normally I prefer to
02:53 be able to see what I'm doing a little bit more. I've then sectioned off this middle
02:58 band as well. I sectioned off just above the occipital bone and then I've decided to work
03:07 with more of a flatter layer. This flatter higher layer is going to leave a bit more
03:14 of a looser piecey kind of texture in the outline. So you can see I haven't gone in
03:22 really tight through there. Also, I'm thinking about looking at my angle and I'm trying to
03:29 imagine where I would take this. So for a client that had a flatter head up here, just
03:36 above the occipital bone, this would be good because it would fill in that space up there,
03:45 give the client a really nice profile and just help them to have a more flattering haircut.
03:55 So I've chosen to use my sections more vertical diagonal and go around the head. If I tend
04:02 to pivot, then I'll get very, very heavy in that corner and I don't want to. I want to
04:08 do something that's a little bit slimmer and lighter in the graduation. Overall, I'm going
04:14 to go into like a looser textured kind of shorter look. I am working on a doll head
04:22 tonight because I wanted to just be able to share very clearly the sections with you.
04:28 At the moment in fashion, it's kind of all over the map. It's super cool to have something
04:38 very, very tight in the bottom. It's also really great to have a looser grown out feeling.
04:44 So I think it's interesting with fashion at the minute, you can kind of do anything, but
04:49 as long as it really suits the client. So to me, this is all about feeling the bone
04:57 structure, feeling the occipital bone, and really trying to make a haircut that suits
05:04 the client in a very bespoke kind of way, just in the same way that when designers cut
05:12 cloth, they really think about forming it to the measurements and to the proportions
05:20 of a body shape as well. So we are using the bone structure to try and build weight in
05:30 the correct position to try and move and remove weight, sorry, in the correct positions as
05:36 well. This haircut is suitable for any density, any texture, any age, any style of client.
05:47 You could make it a lot shorter and it would be kind of quite tough looking. Or again,
05:52 of course, you could make it softer and be a bit more commercial.
05:58 So we have lots of things going on in the next upcoming months. I'm going to be doing
06:04 a foundation class, which is the first five of our comprehensive cutting program haircuts.
06:14 So there's 10 haircuts, long, medium, and short. They really cover many, many, many
06:20 different lengths and techniques. We also really, really spotlight and work on body
06:27 position, correct combing, understanding all of your theory. You also have access to our
06:35 online classroom if you come to class so you can continue to learn. So our foundations
06:41 of cutting is a two day class and that is coming up at the end of January in Phoenix.
06:50 We also have it in Seattle in February. Oh, I'm sorry, March. I'll get the dates right.
06:59 So if you are interested in either sending staff members that maybe need some foundation
07:08 work or if you are a stylist at any level, I feel very confident that you'll get something
07:16 out of class. Sometimes hairdressers just need to get back in and do something really
07:22 strong and get their technique back. And I just wanted to share with you, this is one
07:30 of the haircuts from that foundational class. This is from the short series and it's S2.
07:37 I was just doing this today. I've been doing a lot of private classes. So if any of you
07:44 are interested in coming to see me in Scottsdale in Arizona, it's beautiful weather, super
07:50 sunny and warm. So if you're feeling a bit chilly over on the East Coast or something,
07:57 you can actually book in to do a private class. I've had a lot of people coming to do private
08:03 classes since Christmas and it's really fun to be able to do one-on-one and really study
08:10 with someone. If you want to join our group classes, you can look at the Salon Services
08:16 website to find out all of the dates and how to book. You can also go to sallyrogerson.com.
08:24 Now I'm right-handed. So as I come around to this side, I have to be very careful to
08:30 push my right shoulder around and that pushes my fingertip in. If I don't think about what
08:42 I'm doing, I have a tendency to bring my fingertip out if I open the shoulder. So if I turn around
08:49 with this shoulder, it means that my fingertips go in. So this is something that we really
08:54 work on with you, whether it's in a group class or private class. We really work very
08:59 hard on body position. We try to be very inclusive as well and work with people who are left-handed
09:07 as well. So if you're left-handed, we do work very hard to make sure that we show you all
09:14 of the left-handed body positions, et cetera. And that's something that I feel very strongly
09:20 about. So if you're a lefty and you've been to a class and you feel a bit left out, then
09:28 we will look after you.
09:30 Question.
09:31 Oh, great question.
09:32 Can you cut this wet and dry?
09:34 Very great question. Thank you for that. The question was, can you cut this wet or dry?
09:41 I have a tendency to cut most of my haircuts about 70% wet and then I finish them off after
09:49 the blow dry with all of my finishing and detail work. I do have a lot of people that
09:56 I've worked with who also use all of our techniques, but they do them on dry hair. I know if you,
10:04 for example, work on textured hair and I have a few of my clients that have African American
10:14 hair and I do actually blow dry their hair smooth first and I then use all of these haircuts
10:20 afterwards on smoothed out dry hair. So that works really good too. But my background is,
10:29 I was the creative director with Bedar Sassoon and I was with the Sassoon organization for
10:36 over 20 years in LA and also in London. So my background is precision cutting, but I
10:45 think that these haircuts can be done on wet or dry hair. My feeling is to start it off
10:54 wet if you possibly can and finish it off dry.
10:58 I hope that answered your question and thank you for your question. All I'm doing now is
11:05 going into panel two. In panel two, I'm connecting to panel one and then I'm also over-directing
11:13 back to the previous section. So my fingers are in the air and I'm making sure I can see
11:22 my angle. My fingers are mirroring my section. If my fingers start to go horizontal, that's
11:29 when I go off balance. This haircut is all about body position. It's all about keeping
11:36 yourself really in the zone, not changing your angles. Also just not changing your technique.
11:48 Don't turn it into a layer. It's still a graduation. I would use a shorter version of this for
11:54 something like a Michelle Williams haircut or even a Katy Perry, kind of shorter, tighter
12:03 around the edges. It would just be a shorter version, tighter and closer to the head. I'm
12:10 just doing a little bit of a softer, longer one.
12:17 So once again, this is Sally Rogerson. If you are joining us live, thank you very much.
12:22 I'm Sally Rogerson from SR Education and I do a lot of classes with and at Salon Services.
12:30 We have one coming up in Seattle soon, both the foundation and the advanced class. It's
12:38 going to be four days in a row. You can just take one or you can take both of them. We
12:44 also have classes coming up in the end of January and beginning of February here in
12:50 beautiful Phoenix, Arizona. That's where I'm based now. We've just moved here from LA and
12:59 we've moved here because we are going to be opening a cosmetology school. That is my dream.
13:09 I absolutely love education and I love taking care of the next generation of hairstylists.
13:17 So that's going to be coming soon. Watch this space. If any of you feel like going back
13:22 to school, we'd love to have you. Or if you know anyone that's looking for a very small
13:29 intimate cosmetology school, then this could be the answer for them. If you would like
13:42 to be involved with what we do, please follow me on Instagram or on Facebook. Instagram
13:47 is where we put most of our stuff. That's @sallyrogerson. We'd love to see you in class.
13:56 If any of you are going to the ISSE show in Long Beach at the end of January, I'm also
14:06 going to be doing a really fun men's presentation. That presentation is going to be part of the
14:16 Long Beach ISSE weekend. So check that out. There's going to be a lot of girl hair cutters.
14:24 It's called Barbarella and I'm going to be sponsored by Kuhn there as well. So that's
14:30 going to be quite exciting. They are a fabulous company that Salon Services carry in Arizona.
14:43 So coming all the way through now to the front area and very simply continuing with what
14:50 I'm doing, getting the bulk of the hair off, just coming back to my previous section and
14:57 then I will start to work on the top. I'm kind of motoring through this so you can see
15:04 the end result. And then what I really need to do here is start to do my cross check.
15:14 Once I walked around, then I have to make sure that when I cross check, I make sure
15:22 I curve my fingers. So curving my fingers just to clean everything up. This is super
15:30 important. I can also go through of course, and I can start to point into the hair. So
15:42 that's something that's going to reduce the density. So if I lift the hair up, I can actually
15:47 start to point into it to give a more grown out textured kind of feeling. Works really,
15:55 really good, especially on blonde hair sometimes if it looks a bit solid. So if you are tuning
16:06 in afterwards, then this is Sally Rogerson. We're just doing a short haircut from my comprehensive
16:13 cutting program. And this is haircut S2. I've done a short, slim graduation. And this is
16:25 really all about getting your structure and your shaping as quickly as you can. And then
16:32 obviously start to loosen it up if that's the effect that you want. You could also go
16:37 into like a scissor or a comb or something stronger in the outline if you wanted to.
16:44 I'm really pointing quite deeply into the ends to give it that kind of looser grown
16:48 out feeling. And then just working into my other side, letting it dry as I go along.
17:03 Same thing. If any of you have any questions, if you are watching live, then please ask
17:11 away and we will try our best to catch them. And then if you're watching afterwards on
17:18 the replay, you can always leave a comment in the, sorry, a question in the comment box
17:24 and we will try and get back to you. Thank you so much to Salon Services for allowing
17:33 me to have my classes in their space. Been a big supporter since I started SR education.
17:46 And thank you to anyone and everyone that has been to my classes so far, particularly
17:51 in Seattle. And that has been a really successful area for us. We've really enjoyed meeting
18:00 all of the Seattle area hair stylists. So coming all the way through now, just pointing
18:10 into all of it, keeping it a little bit more soft. I'll be doing those outlines later on,
18:15 but right now all I'm doing is starting to get that top area in. So I'll take this top
18:23 out. I think what's cool with this technique is it can look really, really different depending
18:30 on how much over direction you put into it. So for example, I could over direct all of
18:41 this right back and keep the front super long, or I could do like I am now and actually work
18:50 with a little bit less over direction. This is going to give me a kind of a, a bit of
18:55 a nineties Bowley kind of feeling. So right now, all I'm going to do is to start and stand
19:09 at the back area, very simply working across in like a horizontal section coming over the
19:20 top of my fingers. I'll comb the hair up and across to the side area. This is my guide.
19:27 I'm going to curve my hands around. So just curving around following the curvature of
19:38 the head. I'm going to meet my angle in my graduation at the side curve around into the
19:46 top. This is a great haircut for a shorter, more pixie kind of feeling as well. All you
19:52 have to do is take your beginning lens a lot shorter, come around, follow the head. I'm
20:03 going for that kind of late, well kind of middle nineties, slightly Bowley kind of look
20:08 because I love that. And I think it's having a big comeback. Isn't it? Now, obviously your
20:20 over direction, how much you over direct back is really up to you. If a client wants it
20:26 super long in that front area, then you know, this is the time to pull that hair back. I'm
20:36 going to over direct it back just a little bit. I'm coming over to the side first of
20:41 all, and then I'm going to go up to the top curve my fingers. So you can see, I end up
20:48 with, you know, really cool kind of layered roundy Bowley shape. I haven't done the front
20:54 outline yet. I'm going to do that next, but first of all, just checking in and cutting
21:00 the hair from the top and then working around into the side, just letting it dry as I go
21:07 along horizontal sections. Again, totally up to you how much you over direct back.
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21:54 Again, just finding my guide.
21:56 Especially when I'm cutting a lot of hair off like this,
21:58 I like to just kind of get in there
22:00 and get that hair off
22:02 and then I'll go back and refine afterwards.
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22:12 This is just one of those haircuts you can use on any client
22:14 all day long,
22:16 young, old,
22:18 any kind of styling.
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22:26 Question, what other haircuts are in style
22:28 for 2018?
22:30 Great question! Thank you for that question.
22:32 The question is
22:34 what other haircuts are in style
22:36 for 2018, right?
22:38 Correct.
22:40 We are seeing a really
22:42 big, um,
22:44 kind of shag, disheveled
22:46 lots of layer
22:48 at the moment
22:50 and I think that's really cool because
22:52 we've been through this really heavy
22:54 bob kind of feeling
22:56 but it's all over the map.
22:58 I'm seeing a lot of very strong
23:00 geometric
23:02 haircuts coming in as well.
23:04 People seem to be a little bit more
23:06 daring on doing stronger
23:08 outlines.
23:10 I absolutely love short fringes,
23:12 short bangs. That's something
23:14 that people are getting a bit more
23:16 daring about. Again, that's kind of a
23:18 little bit of a 90s trend coming
23:20 back that we are seeing.
23:22 Um,
23:24 so yeah, I mean, I think
23:26 that's the big thing I'm
23:28 seeing. Of course
23:30 I love bangs and fringe
23:32 and something strong
23:34 but I do always like it with a little
23:36 bit of a softness, um,
23:38 next to it as well. So I think that
23:40 soft and strong thing is
23:42 very current right now too.
23:44 But super short
23:46 hair for girls. There's a lot of androgyny
23:48 going on with, um,
23:50 boys with softer, longer hair,
23:52 girls with stronger, shorter
23:54 hair. So I think that that's super cool.
23:56 Um, actually, like I said, I'm doing
24:02 a men's presentation
24:04 at the Barbarella
24:06 show in Long Beach. So
24:08 I'm kind of doing a
24:10 lot of fashion research
24:12 at the moment and I'm really looking
24:14 at all of the men's,
24:16 um, catwalks and all of the
24:18 men's designers. I think
24:20 my biggest inspiration at the moment
24:22 is a men's designer
24:24 in London and he's called
24:26 Charles Jeffery. So if you haven't
24:28 heard of him, definitely look at
24:30 his work. He's
24:32 very, very strong with his
24:34 models and the styling
24:36 and, um, you know,
24:38 pretty kind of out there
24:40 but his clothing is
24:42 a lot of, um, kind of
24:44 tartan and check and plaid.
24:46 A lot of guys
24:48 in kilts but with, like,
24:50 an army jacket or, like, a
24:52 really kind of fatigued denim
24:54 jacket, that kind of thing. So
24:56 there's this whole kind of grunge thing
24:58 that hasn't gone away at the moment.
25:00 And very homegrown
25:02 hair. A lot of people still
25:04 want their hair to look like they've done it themselves
25:06 in the bathroom, which for us
25:08 hairdressers is kind of a little bit
25:10 difficult because we've spent 20
25:12 years and lots of money
25:14 learning how to cut hair properly
25:16 and make it look really
25:18 professional. So that sometimes
25:20 can be a challenge for us.
25:22 That's definitely the vibe though at the moment.
25:26 So I'm just going to dry the hair
25:34 really fast, again, with my
25:36 fingers, just kind of a finger dry,
25:38 keep it quite loose.
25:40 And then I'm going to
25:46 go on to the finishing.
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28:40 So obviously there's a million things you can do in the front.
28:54 It's very nice if you start to
28:56 sweep it over.
28:58 So you can, you know, obviously
29:00 go in and slice
29:02 and do a little bit of
29:04 lighter work. You know, the freehand work
29:06 that I generally do,
29:08 if I'm going to keep it softer,
29:10 then I generally open and close
29:12 my scissor
29:14 and either go very deep
29:16 that way, vertically,
29:18 or I tend to kind of go
29:20 a little bit more on the surface.
29:22 So, depending on
29:24 really what I want to see. Otherwise
29:26 I have lots of options. I can also
29:28 go through the comb and
29:30 you know, just keep it a little bit more
29:32 soft around here. I could
29:34 go for something on a shorter fringe
29:36 would be good as well. So you can see
29:38 here, all I've done is close
29:40 the scissor, let the hair
29:42 fall naturally into
29:44 the comb, tap it in.
29:46 I can cut it cleanly,
29:48 I can point into it. But
29:50 the big thing, if you're doing anything
29:52 like this, is to just make
29:54 sure that you are not
29:56 forcing the hair. So for example,
29:58 I'm not putting my comb
30:00 right under there and combing it.
30:02 I'm actually just letting
30:04 it fall in. And that's
30:06 really the key to it being successful
30:08 around the face, particularly.
30:10 Because we know we have a lot of
30:12 different springs
30:14 and growth patterns and that kind of
30:16 stuff. Once you're going
30:18 into the profile, you know, it's
30:20 absolutely endless what you can do.
30:22 You could go all the way around and
30:24 go into more of a round shape through
30:26 there. You can kind of keep this
30:28 go into more of a
30:30 60s kind of
30:32 little bit more of a
30:34 five point, something like that. A little
30:36 bit of a homage to Vidal.
30:38 It was his birthday
30:40 yesterday.
30:42 So
30:44 we could do a little bit of a 60s vibe.
30:46 That would be cool too.
30:48 But you know, you could work strong.
30:50 You can work clean. Depends on
30:52 what you feel like, obviously. And also
30:54 more importantly, what the client's
30:56 desires are.
30:58 I'm just keeping that
31:04 little corner there. I'm liking that.
31:06 Again, outline work.
31:08 Totally up to you.
31:10 You can carve in something.
31:12 You can keep it soft. Whatever
31:14 you want to. The world is
31:16 your oyster. But I think one
31:18 of the biggest things that I like
31:20 to do is to
31:22 just kind of make your
31:24 outlines a little bit different so the client
31:26 gets to see
31:28 different things.
31:30 So I'm opting
31:40 to go a little bit stronger.
31:42 But totally up to you where you want to
31:44 go with this.
31:46 Again, this is
31:56 Sally Rogerson for SR Education.
31:58 We have classes coming up to do this
32:02 haircut and many others.
32:04 I pride myself in
32:06 trying to make our haircutting
32:08 system as efficient
32:10 and easy to understand
32:12 as possible.
32:14 We really
32:16 want to make your life in the salon
32:18 easier, not harder.
32:20 So we want to make our
32:22 haircuts very easy
32:24 to do.
32:26 And in a timely
32:28 manner.
32:30 So we've tried to make them very, very
32:34 efficient. Definitely wearable.
32:36 But you can take them
32:38 up a level and make them something
32:40 a bit more fashion forward if you want to as well.
32:42 I'm going to be announcing
32:48 a creative class soon in
32:50 Seattle too.
32:52 So if you are interested in our creative
32:54 class, please keep your eyes open
32:56 for that.
32:58 That will be coming up.
33:08 Just starting to do some slicing
33:10 here. I want to break
33:12 this up a little bit more.
33:14 So coming through and making it a bit more
33:16 edgy and piecey
33:18 and wiggy. Very into that
33:20 kind of feeling and that kind of look.
33:22 Starting to see some really nice texture coming through.
33:24 As well.
33:50 A little bit of twisting
33:52 in that top area. Open and closing
33:54 my scissor. I'm just going
33:56 into the root area particularly
33:58 right now.
34:00 And then finally
34:16 into my back area.
34:18 And just
34:20 continuing with my outline.
34:22 Obviously it can be anything you want it to be.
34:24 Just kind of into it being a bit
34:26 stronger at the moment.
34:28 Could totally go into
34:30 a very gentle scissor over comb as well.
34:32 And then
34:40 I'm going to be
34:42 going into the
34:44 back area.
34:46 And just
34:48 going to
34:50 kind of
34:52 make it a bit more
34:54 edgy.
34:56 And then
34:58 I'm going to be
35:00 going into the
35:02 back area.
35:04 And just
35:06 going to
35:08 kind of
35:10 make it a bit more
35:12 edgy.
35:14 And then
35:16 I'm going to be
35:18 going into the
35:20 back area.
35:22 And just
35:24 going to
35:26 kind of
35:28 make it a bit more
35:30 edgy.
35:32 And then
35:34 I'm going to
35:36 just
35:38 kind of
35:40 make it a bit more
35:42 edgy.
35:44 And then
35:46 I'm going to
35:48 go into the
35:50 back area.
35:52 And just
35:54 going to
35:56 make it a bit more
35:58 edgy.
36:00 And then
36:02 I'm going to
36:04 go into the
36:06 back area.
36:08 And just
36:10 kind of
36:12 make it a bit more
36:14 edgy.
36:16 And then
36:18 I'm going to
36:20 kind of
36:22 make it a bit more
36:24 edgy.
36:26 And then
36:28 I'm going to
36:30 kind of
36:32 make it a bit more
36:34 edgy.
36:36 And then
36:38 I'm going to
36:40 kind of
36:42 make it a bit more
36:44 edgy.
36:46 And then
36:48 I'm going to
36:50 kind of
36:52 make it a bit more
36:54 edgy.
36:56 And then
36:58 I'm going to
37:00 kind of