French Haircutting Techniques - French haircut tutorial
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00:00 Hi guys, how's it going? So I'm going to be doing a French haircut and I just got some new Bolton shears in.
00:04 They're 6.25, so they're a little bit on the shorter side which is good for precision cutting.
00:11 And I'm doing it a slight A-line bob and I'm going to be doing some disconnected layers through the
00:16 back side and then connecting it through the sides of the head. And I'm actually going to start her
00:20 haircut from the front and I am going to turn her head to the side and I'm kind of using the front
00:26 as my guide with how short I want the back to be. So just taking everything in one long stride.
00:32 And I'm using this as a guide so where her old layers are that's my guide for her length right
00:40 here. So that's going to be the guide starting here and I'm going to kind of cut right on top
00:46 of my hand. So I'm just going to walk my way back to the nape area.
00:56 And I'll be doing the same thing on the other side.
01:15 Before I continue on I always kind of check with the other side and just see how that feels.
01:19 And a lot of times I preserve a little more length on the opposite side
01:23 just so that I have some wiggle room. So I'm going to go into that a little bit more.
01:35 Like
01:48 I was saying before I'm going slightly asymmetrical so I'm just going a little bit
01:59 shorter as I get to the back of the head. And I stop right when I get about two finger widths
02:04 behind the ear that's where I stop my guide and then I'll turn her around and I'll go to the back
02:08 end of the hair.
02:17 One more time. Perfect. All right and then once I get those sides matched up I just turn her around
02:29 and then I'll just tip my head forward and I'll use this side as a guide into the center. So I'll
02:36 start in the center and then I have this line that I can kind of keep my eye on. So I'm starting up
02:42 here and I'm meeting that guide on the other end. So I'm cutting right on top of my hand at an angle
02:50 right toward the outside there. And then I'll hold it straight down over the top of her body
02:56 and I'll just cut it right on top of her. That's her connection. I'll do the same thing for the
03:02 other side. I'll bring everything straight down. My finger is at an angle. My hand is reaching the
03:08 top of this layer so it's telling me exactly where to go. I'm starting my guide on the outside and
03:13 I'm walking my way in on the inside. Now that I've got these connected I can just cut the rest of it
03:20 right on her neck. So I tip her head forward just a tiny bit more and I pull everything straight
03:25 down on top of her. I'm going to cut right on top of her skin. Check this side as well.
03:42 And you notice as I'm bringing this hair back I'm rounding it. I'm pulling it off. I'm rounding it
03:55 just so that it's not, I don't want to, I don't want to end up over directing this or I end up
04:00 over directing it because I don't want to cut square into that. If I cut square into it then
04:04 I'm going to have a hole that jumps up. Okay, do you want to have a seat?
04:09 Since the most of her cut the focus is going to be on the back side of the head I'm starting her
04:20 guide from the back. So right where her part line is from ear to ear I'm taking the very top of her
04:26 section here with the smaller tooth part of my comb and I'm bringing everything up high interior.
04:34 So I'm using the top as my guide. I'm really not taking length off of the top. I'm taking it from
04:40 the underneath and I'm just following my guide all the way through. As the head starts to round,
04:48 so right through here as the head starts to round further and you kind of reach that divot and
04:52 usually it's about three to four finger widths behind the ear, that's where I start over directing
04:57 it and that's kind of where her angle starts to change as well. So now I'm bringing everything
05:01 up and into my guide that I started in the back of her head so you'll have less and less hair to
05:05 cut off through there. Six and a quarter inch shears I'm still cutting with my hands directly
05:13 inside so my hands are all the blades the shears itself are tucked all the way down into my in my
05:21 fingers.
05:24 Now I'm over directing because I'm reaching the round of her head.
05:39 So
05:41 and then this is my guide for the rest of it and the main thing and this is what I see happen often
05:50 when it comes to A-lines a lot of times people want to grab this entire area and they want to
05:55 dive down and they want to cut all that off. The reason why that's not good is because this will
06:00 jump up and you'll have all of your layers sitting up here and then you'll have very little layers
06:05 sitting down here and it causes this to flip out. So what I do is I push the head forward
06:09 I grab the hair from underneath and I pull it up into my guide so this is all being over directed
06:18 so now I'm just cutting this portion here when I let it go if you watch it I'll do this slowly
06:23 one more time if you pull this up here when I let it go notice how the way it falls is it falls like
06:30 this so the stacking happens up here the more you want the stacking the higher you're going
06:35 to take your guide up here this is all coming from the top of the head not from down here so
06:41 that's one of the biggest things that I see happen when it comes to stacking A-lines or just trying
06:46 to get weight taken out is that you want to pull the hair up higher the good news is that with the
06:53 round of the head that's what makes it graduate to begin with so you don't need to encourage it
07:01 and that's the other thing I'm still over directing as I get to the back of the head
07:06 to the bottom underneath section
07:08 okay so that's the back I'm done with that now I'm going to reach the sides and one of my favorite
07:27 things that I like to do just to keep myself from doing too many stacked layers to the side of the
07:31 head is I divide these into two separate sections and I grab the entire front area front panel
07:38 the underneath side of the front and I grab the back with it as well so I take a really large
07:44 section here and I draw everything straight out from the head so just horizontally and you can
07:50 kind of see where that's her length those are her layers and that's what's in between so that's my
07:55 guide right there and I'm gonna do the same thing here through the top drawing out my section my
08:01 panel my second panel to the top I've grabbed hair from the back from my old guide that I just did
08:09 or my new guide I'd rather and her old length and same thing here you can see there's her guide
08:17 there's her length and I'm just cutting this portion off right through here so that's kind
08:22 of like the shortcut in finding your guide now I have two guides I have the guide at the bottom I
08:26 just cut the guide at the top I just cut now I just have to transition on each side I'll do the
08:30 same thing on the other side of her head so I just tilt her head sideways slightly and I'm doing the
08:35 same thing I'm bringing all this up and over I'm creating my panel I lower her chair down and I
08:42 kind of wrap my body around her so I'm going to bring this section out panel from the very side
08:49 of her head right there between her length and her layers and then I'll do it on this side as well
08:56 and that one too you can see a lot on that side
09:05 I'm gonna do that again just so I don't lose it
09:15 okay now I'm gonna go into the sides of her head
09:18 starting right behind the ear
09:25 I'm pushing everything out exterior and I have the length that I just cut here and the length
09:33 right here where's my guide and I'm just traveling from short to long all cutting exterior from the
09:40 head
09:50 okay and then I have the other side now
09:54 you know what's fun about a shortcut like that is that I just did my cross check
10:02 my cross check is what created my layers so after this I'm completely done with her cut
10:08 there it is okay so after I'm done I'm gonna go ahead and blow her out as you can see she has a
10:21 lot of hair so when I'm done with her blowout I'll take a picture of it and I'll just put it on my
10:26 Instagram story so you guys can see it later thanks guys have a good day