How To Cut A Modern SHAG Haircut Step by step
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CreativityTranscript
00:00 Hi everyone, this is Sally Rogerson and we are on the wonderful takeover for American
00:10 Salon Magazine. So hi to everyone from American Salon and thank you so much for letting me
00:16 take over your Facebook Live this morning. I'm so excited. I'm Sally Rogerson and I have
00:23 a hair education company called SR Education. I've been lucky enough to do a couple of Facebook
00:29 Lives on here before. So if you've seen my work before and you've enjoyed it, then I
00:36 appreciate you coming back for a little bit more. To any new friends, then hi. And this
00:42 morning what I'd like to do is share with you something like a modern kind of shag feeling.
00:50 You know, in fashion at the moment we definitely have a big 90s grunge revival going on of
00:56 course and you know the hair is definitely many many things at the moment. I feel like
01:03 in hair fashion you can kind of have everything. You can have a clean blunt little short bob.
01:11 You can have a lob. You can also have a really cool textured kind of shaggy more grungy look
01:18 as well. And that's what we're going to look into today. If any of you have seen my previous
01:24 Facebook Lives for American Salon, you will notice I've done a lot of stronger work. And
01:31 my technical background is with Sassoon. I was a creative director for the Sassoon organization
01:37 and I was with them for over 22 years. So obviously precision and that kind of stronger
01:45 work is in my blood. But I also absolutely love looser more textured feelings as well.
01:53 So not everything has to have a line in it. You know it's really cool at the minute to
01:57 wear things a bit more grown out. We see a lot of this more grown out bolliage and you
02:04 know painting color. And I think that we're seeing that in hair cutting as well. You know
02:09 the modern mullet, the new modern mullet is really kind of happening right now as well
02:15 which I personally love. So I wanted to share that kind of feeling with you but I would
02:21 say that the way that I go about those kind of haircuts is still with that precision base.
02:29 So for me I still cut everything pretty cleanly but I just don't cut the outlines in. So I'm
02:36 going to start first of all on Phoenix's hair and I'm going to work from the interior part
02:42 of her haircut and leave all of the outline stuff until afterwards. So to start with all
02:49 I've done is take out a really big triangle through the top area. Phoenix has a lot of
02:57 hair density. She has hair that tends to kind of poof out a little bit. So what I want to
03:03 do is start through the back and through the sides and this is really where her hair is
03:09 you know quite dense. So I'm going to go through and work with a layering process. So starting
03:16 with my first layer, coming out and really keeping the hair at that angle that just melts
03:23 in. So I'm going to cut it precisely but the angle at which I'm holding the hair from the
03:30 head will allow the hair to just melt in when it falls down. So your finger angle when you're
03:36 layering is extremely important. For example if I brought the hair out and cut it more
03:42 floor to ceiling with my finger angle, when it falls down I'm going to get more of a kind
03:48 of a ridge on the top area. So by just coming up off the head at 90 I will create length
03:56 and keep more textured feeling in the bottom but I will reduce a lot of bulk and volume
04:02 through the underneath. So I'm going to start through here just with a vertical section
04:08 in that back area and I'm going to put in my first angle and it's my intention to leave
04:18 a lot of length and keep it quite piecey and textured at the bottom. This haircut is influenced
04:25 from my Women's Comprehensive Cutting Program which you can find in our SR Education Virtual
04:32 Classroom. We have an online classroom where you can see all of our haircuts and it's really
04:37 influenced from the Long Series L2, so the second haircut in the Long Series but I'm
04:43 actually doing it on shorter hair because it works so phenomenally. So I'm going to
04:48 take this hair section off, pull the hair out and really feel the head shape. Put my
04:56 fingers on the head and then come out off of the head at 90 through there. Now obviously
05:02 you can cut this cleanly or if you prefer you could be pointing into this. I'm cutting
05:09 it a little bit cleaner but because I'm not cutting my outlining first the bottom will
05:15 be left soft and piecey. I can then go back in and do some freehand work afterwards. My
05:23 next section will be vertical but it will actually follow around the head and I'm going
05:29 to stop at the mastoid process. So that's a really key thing in the SR Education Cutting
05:36 Program is not taking your back area all the way through to over the ear. For us in the
05:45 SR Education Program the sides exist from the front hairline to the mastoid process
05:51 and that's going to be where the hairline changes from here up to the sides because
05:58 this area through here is the problem area and that's where you get the hole and that's
06:03 where you end up taking too much weight out through there. So the back area I'm going
06:08 to come around the head just coming back to the previous section. When I stop at the mastoid
06:14 process I then have the option to change my finger angle and work from short to long and
06:22 leave more length through the sides or I can come through with the same angle and go into
06:28 more of that mullet kind of shape. So it's really up to you on your client what kind
06:35 of look you want to achieve. So for me I'm on my second section I'm going to be over
06:43 directing that hair back to my first section. Again because of the angle I'm going to get
06:51 this softer looser feeling and then coming around I'm now going to come through into
07:00 number three. Number three is going to come back to number two and then I will probably
07:06 finish on number four or number five when I get to the mastoid process. Again I'm all
07:13 about cutting it cleanly but it falling loose and soft because of my technique that I've
07:22 chosen. So coming through now just about getting to the mastoid process and where the hairline
07:30 changes and at this point I have to really decide you know what is it I want to do through
07:37 these side areas. Do I want to lose length through the side area and have it a little
07:42 bit more of that mullety feel? If you have a client that wants to still maintain length
07:49 who wants to have a lot of layering through the sides then you can come up and change
07:54 your angle and your cutting angle. So for me I'm just going to keep on going through
08:01 with the same angle but I might just start to change it a little bit. So I'm going past
08:06 the mastoid now, this one is my layer in the top so this length through here is my layer
08:13 in the top. I'm going to lift my elbow, change my angle a little bit, the underneath dropped
08:19 out, this top area is my layer so I'm just going to cut from short to long. This is going
08:27 to keep a little bit of length somewhere in the middle of you know a mullety feel and
08:34 a long haircut so I'm just kind of designing it suitable for Phoenix's hair. So short to
08:41 long, what I'm getting from this is I'm getting an even blend of the layers but the outline
08:50 will have different lengths in there because of the angle that I'm cutting it on. So coming
08:56 all the way through, remember if you want that cool modern mullet then you definitely
09:05 cannot change the angle you can just stick with the angle from the back and that will
09:10 get you shorter in the sides. So you know I'm very inspired by my models and I've been
09:19 lucky enough to cut Phoenix's hair a few times and she's just a super cool girl and she looks
09:25 amazing and she always has this interesting looking hair and so we've been putting a little
09:33 bit of this purple colour over the top but I love the slightly more home done kind of
09:39 finish so you know we didn't want it to be too super perfect I wanted it to just be a
09:45 bit more real and a bit more her so I'm really enjoying this kind of you know messier, looser
09:54 colouring look as well I think it goes really well with the haircut. So that's my back and
09:59 my sides done I'm looking at this texture coming through I'm working with it as I go
10:04 along I'm loving all the different colours in it so I'm really happy with that. I'm going
10:10 to go onto my other side come around do the same thing now body position wise I turned
10:18 around and I'm now cutting bottom up so for me consistency and balance comes from your
10:27 body position work and this is how we teach it in all of our SR education classes so if
10:35 any of you are interested in coming to see what we do we have classes around the country
10:41 you can go to sallyrogerson.com to see all of the things that we have going on for this
10:47 year we've got lots of really cool classes both foundation work and also creative and
10:55 men's and for any of you that are interested in teacher training that's something that
11:00 I really specialise in so we have you know really great teacher training classes so check
11:05 out anything if any of you have any questions about anything I like to be very contactable
11:13 and you can always email me at sally@sallyrogerson.com so we'd love to hear from you now this side
11:23 you can see the bottom is dropping out because I'm cutting bottom up on this side so as I
11:31 come through past the mastoid process on this side I do need to turn around on my body position
11:42 because on my body position now I'm going to need to stand in the front so I'm going
11:48 to be here because I have the ability now to change my angle so it's my elbow that controls
11:57 that situation so by standing in the front I can now let that underneath back area drop
12:03 out and I can come through and cut short to long on that top area so coming through still
12:13 over directing back to the previous section lifting my elbow up I'm right handed working
12:19 short to long this allows me to change my angle and give me that kind of slightly more
12:28 looser length through the sides so coming through over directing back to the previous
12:37 taking that corner of weight out I'm just really letting Phoenix's hair dry as I go
12:44 along because I like her texture and I think at the moment we're too into picking up a
12:53 blow dryer and a comb I think it's really cool to just let the hair dry naturally and
12:59 get that really cool texture out of it.
13:02 If I could get some sea salt spray as well so sea salt spray works really good with this
13:07 kind of texture I'm using the Davines sea salt spray and I'm just putting a little bit
13:14 of it in to add that texture it also helps it to dry a bit quicker sometimes as well
13:20 so you can start to see the results.
13:25 Okay so that's kind of my sides and back done I'm going to go back in and if you wanted
13:29 to do a bit more work in the outline then obviously you could do but I'm going to take
13:35 this top area out now and start to work on that.
13:40 Now this top area you know I really want to keep a lot of length through the front I really
13:46 like that look at the moment so there's so many things that I could do with it but what
13:52 I'd like to do through here is definitely have a little bit of disconnection through
13:57 the crown the crown area on Phoenix's hair is quite springy and bouncy and she's a little
14:02 flat through there so I definitely need to make sure that I leave some hair there to
14:08 allow it to spring up a little bit so what I'm going to do through here is actually work
14:14 through with diagonal sections so standing in the back I'm right-handed so I'm going
14:21 to take a step to the right and I'm going to simply work with a diagonal section across
14:28 the top of the head my guide is going to be from the side so I'm going to go over my fingers
14:35 at this point and work from short to long so that's going to be my guide there working
14:42 from short to long and then my next section I'm going to take another diagonal section
14:57 but this time I'm going to come across to the other side and I'm now going to cut it
15:04 from short to long from the other side and connect into that so my guide is going to
15:10 be here and I'm going to cut across short to long that way so this side of the section
15:21 is not connecting and this side is connecting so I'll get rid of that now and then I'm just
15:27 going to keep going with these kind of diagonal zigzag kind of sections and what I'm going
15:33 to do is just connect to one side only and then not connect to the other side so this
15:42 will just give me a really cool loose textured top area the very front piece I'm not actually
15:48 going to cut at all and I'm going to leave out and leave it disconnected
16:00 if you want to you can kind of clip that hair out of the way if you're finding it confusing
16:06 so ultimately you're just doing like a zigzag section on the top and you are simply connecting
16:11 on one side and not connecting on the other side
16:31 okay so I'm looking now at how much hair I have left to disconnect so I think I'll put
16:36 that down and then see how that's looking I have a lot of different lengths and textures
16:42 now in this top area the very front I haven't cut at all this top area has been cut short
16:51 to long so it has a lot of really cool texture in there and these areas are completely disconnected
16:56 from the sides and the back but somehow visually all kind of works in together so all I'm going
17:03 to do now is put a little bit of the pliable paste into the hair I'm going to dry it with
17:09 my fingers and then I'll start to do any finishing work on there
17:18 so on these takeovers and on these Facebook lives on American Salon I do like to get through
17:25 the whole of the haircut and you know I think that that's really important to me rather
17:31 than preparing half of it and you only see half of it so I do kind of like to show you
17:39 everything so I'm going to dry it a little bit with my fingers might not get it all the
17:45 way fully dry but just bear with me a second and then we'll get to the end result in a
17:52 moment thank you I hope you guys are enjoying what we're doing this morning and again this
18:03 is my take on a modern kind of new looking shag
18:21 so I'm going to start with the back of my head and I'm going to start with the sides.
18:48 So, I'm going to start with the sides.
19:18 So, I'm going to start with the sides.
19:44 So, I'm going to start with the sides.
20:12 So, I'm going to start with the sides.
20:40 So, I'm going to start with the sides.
21:08 Okay, so just getting into some finishing work now and you can see the looseness and
21:25 the texture obviously you know you can go as far as you want with your finishing and
21:31 the finishing work is very very important to bring your haircut completely up to where
21:38 you want it to be you know through this area we need to kind of just open up slightly and
21:45 bring out the cheekbone area because there's too much weight through there this longer
21:50 hair can then go over and sit over it and it means that you get a bit more space there
21:56 and that's very important I think I'm also going to go into here I'm going to do some
22:02 twisting I'm simply open and closing my scissor and I'm working in the base of my scissor
22:09 just opening and closing that blade so it's almost like a back comb that's just going
22:15 to take some of the density and weight out give it a little bit more of a cooler texture
22:20 in there and it's going to allow me to kind of blend a little bit with that front disconnection
22:29 I really like all of this completely disconnected to that top area so I'm really into leaving
22:34 that out and you know I think the key thing here is not to get too fussy with it I'm going
22:44 to twist the hair a little bit open and close in the bottom but I don't really want to do
22:49 too much to the hair at all it's definitely more of a lived in look that I'm after and
22:56 I think that when we're doing this kind of thing we can get too kind of fluffy with it
23:01 and we can make it all too nice you know I'm trying to keep it on that more you know grown
23:09 out kind of looser raw kind of feeling so I don't want to mess with it too much
23:29 obviously you know it's a certain kind of look I think it works really good for Phoenix
23:36 but it's definitely something that is coming through and you're going to see a lot more
23:41 looser textured kind of haircuts one of my biggest inspirations from a hair point of
23:50 view is you know just kind of looking on the street and seeing what people are doing with
23:57 their hair but also you know looking at upcoming models that kind of thing musicians and if
24:04 you go on the Zara website they always have some really really cool up-and-coming models
24:11 and a lot of really super cool hair so that's definitely a good hair inspiration for sure
24:18 and you know just kind of getting inspired by a lot of older photographic books from
24:24 kind of the 60s and 70s a lot of music kind of influenced stuff we're going to put a little
24:32 bit of product in now maybe the shine yeah thank you so I'm coming to an end with my
24:39 technique now I'm just going to put a little bit of the shine mist in from Davines but
24:46 really I like a bit of texture in there like a bit of movement in there so I'm not going
24:52 to make it too done.
25:07 Can we get Fink's jacket?
25:08 I'm just going to put your jacket on and stand you up so this is going to be my American
25:16 Salon takeover for this morning this is the SR Education kind of modern shag we'll actually
25:25 stand Fenix up and you can take a good look at her in full effect and this is just how
25:34 she this just how she turned up this morning so as you can see it's just really good look
25:41 for her.
25:50 Okay cool so thank you all for watching thank you American Salon for allowing us to take
25:56 over this morning and if you'd like to see a little bit more from me and SR Education
26:01 go to sallyrogerson.com also we have our first live SR Education hair happening in Vegas
26:11 so we're going to do a big hair show there's classes there's all sorts of things going
26:14 on so please join us there that's going to be February the 26th and have a wonderful
26:19 day and happy new year thank you bye!
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