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00:00 - Hello everyone, it's Kim Moore.
00:05 And I'm going to be attempting to recreate a photo.
00:10 And something we have to do in the hair world
00:17 is a client brings us a photo
00:19 and they want it just like the picture.
00:22 And sometimes that can be a little difficult.
00:27 You know, and so how do we approach it?
00:31 How do we break down a haircut to know how to cut it?
00:36 You know?
00:38 So I wanna show you real quick the picture
00:42 that I'm going to be trying to do.
00:45 So hopefully you guys can see that okay.
00:50 So it's just an asymmetrical.
00:53 Hey Crystal.
00:55 Super cute, I'm excited to give it a try
01:00 and see how close I can get.
01:02 So I've drawn the picture up here
01:09 and I'm gonna show you guys right there.
01:12 And explain a little bit of how I broke this down.
01:19 Looking at the photo, one thing that I did
01:22 was look at the actual shape of the cut.
01:25 And used geometry, slope, to figure out
01:31 exactly what angles or slope that the hair was falling into.
01:36 And so these are, this is actual shape using actual math
01:42 to figure out what shape it's taking or what.
01:49 You know, and this is how we start.
01:52 I teach an online training course
01:53 and the very first lesson the first week
01:56 is about looking at pictures of haircuts
01:58 and breaking it down and looking at the shape.
02:01 Where does it start?
02:03 Where does it end?
02:05 What is it falling into?
02:08 So what is the actual shape?
02:10 So I'm gonna show you guys just a little bit about
02:13 on the heavy side, she's falling into a 50 degree fall
02:20 a 50 degree fall from the floor.
02:23 So if we're basing it off the floor,
02:27 this slope right here is 50.
02:31 And then it changes, the haircut changes to a 70 fall
02:35 or slope from the floor.
02:39 And then it changes again to 110 degrees.
02:42 And that's something that we teach you in the class.
02:44 Like how do I break down a haircut
02:46 and what shape is it really?
02:48 And then on the other side,
02:50 this hair here is falling into 65 degrees, okay?
02:55 So now the other piece that we look at is
02:59 when we're breaking this down
03:00 and we're looking at that inspiration photo.
03:02 Where does the haircut start?
03:04 In other words, where is the top layer?
03:08 And then where does it end?
03:10 And on her, it's ending on this side, on the weak side,
03:15 just at the bottom of the ear.
03:18 'Cause in that photo, we can't see her ear,
03:20 so we know it's slightly covering
03:22 right at the bottom of the ear.
03:24 And on this side, it's coming to her jawline, okay?
03:29 So that's what, those are things we're looking at.
03:33 So I've pre-cut some of this mannequin.
03:37 And I wanted to show you what I've done so far.
03:44 So on this side, this is her heavy side.
03:48 I've already cut this perimeter line to her jaw, okay?
03:53 And on this side, I've already cut it
03:55 to the bottom of her ear.
03:58 And then I've also already cut where I want my top,
04:04 let's see if I can find it.
04:07 All right, there it is, okay?
04:11 So this side's just a little bit longer.
04:14 See if you can see that.
04:16 This side's a little bit longer than this side,
04:19 and where I want the haircut to start.
04:22 That's a really thin layer,
04:24 just to kind of give me some markers.
04:26 So I have an A where I'm starting,
04:29 and a B where I'm ending, okay, the haircut.
04:32 And I'm going to try to match this shape exactly, all right?
04:38 I saw on Facebook Live last night where,
04:44 I hope I don't mess his name up,
04:45 Cole Thompson, or Thomas Thompson,
04:49 was cutting for Hanzo, and he said something
04:51 about a precision haircut, which I thought was great.
04:54 And he said a precision haircut is a haircut
04:58 that looks precisely like what the client asked for.
05:03 And I love that.
05:04 So I'm going to try to get this precisely like the photo,
05:12 like this, okay?
05:14 And the way I've figured this out,
05:18 and how to do this, is using math,
05:20 which is really cool, and it really makes
05:24 a lot of people freak out, and it used to me,
05:27 'cause I'm not a math person.
05:29 But what I found is that math doesn't lie,
05:33 and that you can figure out anything in the world with math.
05:38 And so using the Head Shape Matters formula,
05:41 I formulated what I think will give me that precise shape.
05:46 And so I've got this up on the board,
05:52 exactly how I'm gonna be cutting this,
05:55 with the hopes of getting this precise shape.
05:59 So we'll see what happens.
06:01 I know that on here, I've got some
06:06 certified Head Shape Matters hair cutters on here.
06:11 So hopefully they can answer some questions for you
06:13 as they come up.
06:15 And if not, I'll go back through after the live video,
06:19 and answer what I can for you, okay?
06:22 So here we go, I'm gonna just start cutting.
06:24 We'll be able to see the shape as it appears,
06:31 because the hair is dry.
06:33 So.
06:40 All right, so this is her heavy side.
06:42 I'm gonna start here.
06:43 And before I start, I'm gonna get this front quadrant,
06:47 or the fringe area, out of my way.
06:49 The way I'm finding this is where her hairline changes,
07:08 and then how far back it goes in the picture.
07:12 Okay, so her hairline changed right here, right?
07:17 So I don't want to incorporate any of this hair
07:21 that falls over skin into this,
07:24 because then I'll get a hole.
07:26 So I am putting that in with my front quadrant, okay?
07:32 (scissors snipping)
07:35 So hopefully everybody can see this, okay?
07:45 With Head Shape Matters,
07:50 everything is broken down into a grid.
07:53 So you have levels on the head,
07:55 so you always know where you are,
07:57 and exactly what you're cutting.
07:59 So I'm going to get my first level.
08:02 Which is actually level six,
08:17 and I'm gonna cut that at 75 degrees from head shape.
08:21 So that I can get a 50 fall, all right?
08:28 So let's see how this works.
08:30 I've got a little bit of my guide from underneath.
08:38 I'm finding the head shape here, okay?
08:41 That's 90, 75.
08:46 I can see my guide underneath.
08:52 (scissors snipping)
08:55 Once I've established that first 75,
09:06 then I have a guide.
09:08 And so I can just cut to my guide from that point on.
09:11 (scissors snipping)
09:17 (scissors snipping)
09:20 Okay, so now I'm gonna move up to level five.
09:43 And on level five, I'm gonna cut this at 60 degrees.
09:47 (scissors snipping)
09:50 So there I am at 90, 75, 60,
10:16 oop!
10:17 (scissors snipping)
10:21 (scissors snipping)
10:24 (scissors snipping)
10:27 (scissors snipping)
10:30 (scissors snipping)
10:33 (scissors snipping)
10:36 (scissors snipping)
10:39 (scissors snipping)
10:42 (scissors snipping)
10:50 (scissors snipping)
11:07 (scissors snipping)
11:10 And now I'm cutting this at 60 again.
11:18 So here, so I'm at 75, I don't know if you guys can see that.
11:22 I did 75, 60, now I'm doing another 60.
11:35 So here's my edge shape, that's 90, 75, 60.
11:40 (scissors snipping)
11:46 (scissors snipping)
12:05 Okay, got too thick of a section, so I can't see my guide.
12:08 So you always go back and make sure
12:11 that you can see your guide.
12:14 90, 75, 60.
12:23 (scissors snipping)
12:29 (scissors snipping)
12:32 90, 75, 60.
12:38 (scissors snipping)
12:56 (scissors snipping)
12:59 90, 75, 60.
13:05 (scissors snipping)
13:12 (scissors snipping)
13:15 Okay, on this one I'm gonna be cutting
13:33 at 90 degrees from head shape.
13:36 (scissors snipping)
13:40 (scissors snipping)
13:44 (scissors snipping)
13:47 (scissors snipping)
14:04 (scissors snipping)
14:07 Okay, so now I'm gonna be at 75 again.
14:22 (scissors snipping)
14:25 So there's 90, 75.
14:46 (scissors snipping)
14:51 (scissors snipping)
15:19 And this last one I'm gonna be cutting at 180.
15:24 (scissors snipping)
15:27 So that's 90.
15:32 180 is gonna be all the way away from its base.
15:37 (scissors snipping)
15:42 (scissors snipping)
15:45 Okay, so now I'm gonna just run my flat iron through this
15:56 and see how we did with the shape.
16:00 (scissors snipping)
16:05 (scissors snipping)
16:08 (scissors snipping)
16:22 (scissors snipping)
16:25 (scissors snipping)
16:36 (scissors snipping)
16:48 (scissors snipping)
16:51 So you can see that shape start to build.
17:10 So we've got this coming out.
17:15 (scissors snipping)
17:42 So now we see the shape start to change
17:45 like it does there.
17:48 (scissors snipping)
17:54 (scissors snipping)
18:10 (metal clanking)
18:12 (scissors snipping)
18:39 (metal clanking)
18:41 Okay.
18:58 (metal clanking)
19:00 (scissors snipping)
19:03 I'm gonna come back and do that front quadrant later.
19:19 Okay, and on this side,
19:26 I'm gonna do a 75, a 60, a 60, and a 45.
19:31 Get that front quadrant out of the way.
19:44 (scissors snipping)
19:53 (metal clanking)
19:56 So I'm doing a 75 from head shape here.
20:10 That's 90, 75.
20:14 (scissors snipping)
20:23 (metal clanking)
20:26 (scissors snipping)
20:37 (metal clanking)
20:40 (scissors snipping)
21:05 Okay, now I'm gonna do a 60.
21:07 (scissors snipping)
21:11 (metal clanking)
21:29 (scissors snipping)
21:32 (metal clanking)
21:53 (scissors snipping)
21:56 And another 60.
22:20 (metal clanking)
22:23 (scissors snipping)
22:32 (metal clanking)
22:41 (metal clanking)
22:43 (scissors snipping)
22:51 (metal clanking)
23:10 (scissors snipping)
23:12 And then a 45.
23:13 (metal clanking)
23:24 (scissors snipping)
23:38 (metal clanking)
23:41 90, 75, 60, 45.
23:58 (scissors snipping)
24:01 Okay.
24:26 (metal clanking)
24:29 (metal clanking)
24:32 (scissors snipping)
24:35 (metal clanking)
24:52 (metal clanking)
25:02 (scissors snipping)
25:05 (metal clanking)
25:20 (metal clanking)
25:23 (metal clanking)
25:33 (metal clanking)
25:46 (metal clanking)
25:49 (metal clanking)
26:00 Okay, so that's the shape on the weak side.
26:14 All right.
26:15 I think I'll wet her down and blow dry her out
26:27 so we can really see it after I do her front quadrant.
26:31 Okay.
26:41 (metal clanking)
26:44 (metal clanking)
27:02 (scissors snipping)
27:05 Okay, so I've just completed this line
27:28 from the side to the front.
27:31 Now I'm gonna use that as my guide
27:34 and I'm gonna cut everything at 180 degrees
27:36 from her head shape so that I can just remove all weight
27:40 and get it just a really nice flow to this.
27:45 (scissors snipping)
27:48 Hopefully you guys can see this.
28:14 (scissors snipping)
28:18 (metal clanking)
28:21 (metal clanking)
28:29 (scissors snipping)
28:38 (metal clanking)
28:41 (scissors snipping)
28:49 (metal clanking)
29:00 (scissors snipping)
29:03 (scissors snipping)
29:22 (metal clanking)
29:25 (scissors snipping)
29:36 (metal clanking)
29:46 (scissors snipping)
29:49 Let's see how we're doing here.
30:09 All right, so now I'm going to just come in this front
30:14 and angle this in like a curve.
30:18 (scissors snipping)
30:22 (metal clanking)
30:26 (metal clanking)
30:29 (scissors snipping)
30:36 (metal clanking)
30:43 (scissors snipping)
30:56 (metal clanking)
30:59 (metal clanking)
31:15 (scissors snipping)
31:43 A good friend of mine, Terry Allgood
31:45 at Beyond Basics Beauty Supply
31:49 gave me a bunch of styling products.
31:51 So this is called Moisturizing Style Cream
31:55 by Royal Moroccan.
31:56 (blender whirring)
32:04 (blender whirring)
32:07 (blender whirring)
32:11 (blender whirring)
32:14 (blender whirring)
32:32 (blender whirring)
33:00 (blender whirring)
33:04 (blender whirring)
33:32 (blender whirring)
33:34 (blender whirring)
33:40 (blender whirring)
33:51 (blender whirring)
33:55 (blender whirring)
33:58 (blender whirring)
34:01 (blender whirring)
34:04 (blender whirring)
34:08 (blender whirring)
34:35 (blender whirring)
34:38 (blender whirring)
34:51 (blender whirring)
34:54 (scissors snipping)
35:20 (scissors snipping)
35:23 (scissors snipping)
35:47 (scissors snipping)
35:50 (scissors snipping)
35:58 (scissors snipping)
36:04 (scissors snipping)
36:15 Okay.
36:16 So I think we have the shape.
36:19 We did really good there.
36:23 I think I need to just go in and around
36:33 right in here, just detail that a little bit more
36:38 so it looks more like the inspiration photo.
36:42 (scissors snipping)
36:45 (scissors snipping)
37:13 I think it's better.
37:15 Use a little bit of style cream.
37:21 (scissors snipping)
37:26 (scissors snipping)
37:29 Okay.
37:48 So that's how this works.
37:50 It's a formula that we can look at
37:54 and know how to cut hair in certain angles
37:58 to get us a certain shape.
38:05 And what's fascinating, when I first started studying this
38:09 was that I look at these numbers here.
38:12 Well, let's look at this side.
38:19 I look at these numbers right here to get this shape.
38:22 Okay?
38:23 And I would never have thought to do that.
38:27 But it just, through research and watching how hair falls
38:32 at different lengths and from different planes of the head
38:38 and at different cutting angles,
38:41 I just compiled all the data that I found of how hair falls.
38:48 And so being able to do that, I put together a chart
38:52 that tells us how hair will fall at a certain length
38:55 from a certain plane of the head.
38:57 And then from that, you can mathematically formulate
39:00 how to cut any shape you see.
39:03 So next week, I'm going to be doing another one,
39:08 the Lisa Renna cut, because that's something
39:11 that a lot of people have struggled with.
39:14 We still have a lot of clients asking for it.
39:17 So how do we break that down?
39:19 How do we dissect her haircut?
39:22 And then using Head Shape Matters,
39:25 what cutting angles do we use?
39:27 Now, with this system, every head shape is going to be
39:31 a different set of numbers, because we can't cut
39:36 the exact same thing on different head shapes
39:39 and get the same result.
39:41 But that's what this system teaches you.
39:43 Now, this was formulated for this mannequin.
39:46 So that's what worked on her.
39:48 So if you have this exact same mannequin,
39:51 and you parted it the exact same place I did,
39:53 then it would work.
39:55 But on a client that's got a really flat or narrow head
40:00 with lots of vertical planes,
40:02 we can't use that same formula.
40:05 But you can learn this formula and how to formulate it
40:10 exactly for your client, which is really, really cool.
40:14 And so we've got a new class starting January 28th.
40:19 And I'm sure maybe Elena can post the link in the comments.
40:25 But if you don't find the link,
40:27 you can go to headshapematters.com
40:30 and click on the online training.
40:33 It's a seven-week course that we have full-time educators
40:38 on there Monday through -- I'm sorry,
40:42 Sunday through Friday night from 10 a.m. to 10 p.m.
40:48 Educators are on there to check your work, answer questions,
40:53 watch a video that you submit to make sure that you're holding the hair
40:57 at the right angle, all of these types of things.
40:59 So it's very hands-on for an online course.
41:04 And then each week, this time I'm redoing all the videos,
41:10 and this will be my 12th class online for this.
41:16 And this time I shot all new videos
41:18 and incorporated live models as well.
41:21 And I'm going to be doing like a full picture
41:25 and then break down a piece.
41:27 The next week, full picture, break down a piece,
41:30 full picture, break down a piece each week.
41:33 Because I'm the type of learner, I want to see the whole picture,
41:37 and then I want to break it down.
41:39 So I'm redoing it that way this time, so I'm very excited about that.
41:45 Everything was shot in 4K video, so really high resolution,
41:50 so you can really see very clear, all new lighting, all new sound.
41:56 It's really exciting.
41:57 I'm excited for this one to come out.
42:00 So, anyway, thank you for watching,
42:02 and I'll go back through and check your comments and questions that you may have.
42:07 And I look forward to hearing from you.
42:09 Thanks for watching.
42:10 Bye.