How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 15 - Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.\r
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In this video I fit the dial assembly to the clock frames.\r
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Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.\r
\r
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: \r
________________________________________________________\r
\r
A very special thank you to patron KayKey From Norway.\r
________________________________________________________\r
\r
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit \r
\r
Other Videos to Watch:\r
\r
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 14 - Making The Barrel Click And Clickspring: \r
\r
Ask Me A Question:\r
\r
\r
Follow Clickspring:\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
Abbreviated Transcript:\r
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0:00:07 In this video I make the parts required, to fasten the dial assembly to the clock frames. I had intended to make the hands and motion work in this , but whilst getting started on that, I decided to make a small design change in how I fasten the dial assembly to the rest of the clock, and it ended up becoming its own video.\r
0:00:32 The original plan, was to use screws to hold the chapter ring captive, and then install dial feet and pillars like this. But after living with this idea for a while, Ive decided to modify it to this. It means I dont have to make any more holes in the bezel, and it pulls the dial pillars down below the pivot holes, which I think makes the whole arrangement look a lot better. I can use the same bezel screws as before, and having something between the screws and the bezel ing as a washer, removes the risk of scoring the bezel as those screws are inserted.\r
0:01:48 Im also giving what will be the outside surface of the dial brackets a light polish, before the dial feet are fastened in place. Ill do the final polishing at the very end of the clock build, but once the dial feet are in place, itll be a bit awkward to get access to this surface, so Im doing most of the work now. A quick wash in some solvent, and thats the brackets complete for the moment.\r
0:02:56 Now the length of the disc shaped section isnt critical, but it is important that all three be exly the same. So much like the frame pillars in a previous video, I identified the shortest one, and then using the same lathe setting, faced all 3 to match.\r
0:03:13 Next up are the dial pillars, and much like the frame pillars, I didnt like my chances of getting a consistent result across all three, without a bit of help from a form tool. So I formed the basic curves required into some hardened steel using the bench grinder, and then tidied up the cutting edge using abrasive stones.\r
0:03:32 I chose a 1/4 diameter for the curves, so that the oilstones I have on hand could be used to bring that inside curve to the proper dimension. Most of the profile of the part was then generated from this single cutting tool. And again you can see Ive put a small point on the end of the work. In this case Im going to use it to locate the central axis of the part when I drill and tap the small cross holes later on.\r
0:05:53 The spigot extending through the other side was then reduced, and again a light polish put on the surface. Much like the pillars, these parts will get a lot of handling before the clock is completed, so a quick lacquer will keep them safe until the end of the build. The brackets can now be fitted to the back of the dial assembly. And thats where Ill leave the dial assembly for now.\r
0:06:54 The next step is to drill and tap the holes in the front plate, to accept the pillars. Each of the holes is at a fixed radius from the center arbor pivot hole, and Im using this depthing tool to mark out that distance. \r
0:07:43 With all 3 hole positions marked out, each was then drilled and tapped to match the thread on the dial pillars. The pillars can now be screwed into the front plate, and we can have our first look at how the dial assembly fits in place.\r
0:08:51 And this is where I use the point I formed on the end of the pillars, to ensure that the cross holes are aligned with the axis of the part. Now that the point has served its purpose, it can be removed, and a polished surface put in its place.\r
\r
References:\r
\r
John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb: \r
\r
\r
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
\r
In this video I fit the dial assembly to the clock frames.\r
\r
Thanks for watching. If you enjoyed the video please give a thumbs up, and leave me a comment.\r
\r
If you would like to help support the creation of these videos, then head on over to the Clickspring Patreon page: \r
________________________________________________________\r
\r
A very special thank you to patron KayKey From Norway.\r
________________________________________________________\r
\r
For more info on this build, as well as other tool making info and plans, visit \r
\r
Other Videos to Watch:\r
\r
How To Make A Clock In The Home Machine Shop - Part 14 - Making The Barrel Click And Clickspring: \r
\r
Ask Me A Question:\r
\r
\r
Follow Clickspring:\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
\r
Abbreviated Transcript:\r
\r
0:00:07 In this video I make the parts required, to fasten the dial assembly to the clock frames. I had intended to make the hands and motion work in this , but whilst getting started on that, I decided to make a small design change in how I fasten the dial assembly to the rest of the clock, and it ended up becoming its own video.\r
0:00:32 The original plan, was to use screws to hold the chapter ring captive, and then install dial feet and pillars like this. But after living with this idea for a while, Ive decided to modify it to this. It means I dont have to make any more holes in the bezel, and it pulls the dial pillars down below the pivot holes, which I think makes the whole arrangement look a lot better. I can use the same bezel screws as before, and having something between the screws and the bezel ing as a washer, removes the risk of scoring the bezel as those screws are inserted.\r
0:01:48 Im also giving what will be the outside surface of the dial brackets a light polish, before the dial feet are fastened in place. Ill do the final polishing at the very end of the clock build, but once the dial feet are in place, itll be a bit awkward to get access to this surface, so Im doing most of the work now. A quick wash in some solvent, and thats the brackets complete for the moment.\r
0:02:56 Now the length of the disc shaped section isnt critical, but it is important that all three be exly the same. So much like the frame pillars in a previous video, I identified the shortest one, and then using the same lathe setting, faced all 3 to match.\r
0:03:13 Next up are the dial pillars, and much like the frame pillars, I didnt like my chances of getting a consistent result across all three, without a bit of help from a form tool. So I formed the basic curves required into some hardened steel using the bench grinder, and then tidied up the cutting edge using abrasive stones.\r
0:03:32 I chose a 1/4 diameter for the curves, so that the oilstones I have on hand could be used to bring that inside curve to the proper dimension. Most of the profile of the part was then generated from this single cutting tool. And again you can see Ive put a small point on the end of the work. In this case Im going to use it to locate the central axis of the part when I drill and tap the small cross holes later on.\r
0:05:53 The spigot extending through the other side was then reduced, and again a light polish put on the surface. Much like the pillars, these parts will get a lot of handling before the clock is completed, so a quick lacquer will keep them safe until the end of the build. The brackets can now be fitted to the back of the dial assembly. And thats where Ill leave the dial assembly for now.\r
0:06:54 The next step is to drill and tap the holes in the front plate, to accept the pillars. Each of the holes is at a fixed radius from the center arbor pivot hole, and Im using this depthing tool to mark out that distance. \r
0:07:43 With all 3 hole positions marked out, each was then drilled and tapped to match the thread on the dial pillars. The pillars can now be screwed into the front plate, and we can have our first look at how the dial assembly fits in place.\r
0:08:51 And this is where I use the point I formed on the end of the pillars, to ensure that the cross holes are aligned with the axis of the part. Now that the point has served its purpose, it can be removed, and a polished surface put in its place.\r
\r
References:\r
\r
John Wilding Large Wheel Skeleton Clock construction book can be purchased online from Ian T Cobb: \r
\r
\r
Fitting The Dial Assembly To The Frames, by Clickspring.
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